Non-tdi 1.6L fuel pump tuning

Poor King

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'91 Jetta, '91 GTI, '04 Touareg
The '81 rabbit pickup I purchased is smoking blue at all rpms and even after the motor has warmed up. The seller claimed the fuel pump needed to be tuned, yet the vehicle came with refurbished head from the second to last previous owner.

Symptom of a bad head (imo) or could it actually be running rich?
 

Poor King

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That could be it. It'll be best practice to do a new timing belt and pump even though it looks brand new on the motor.
 

Poor King

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Just bought one with a 1000 psi reading and a vw injector puller. Kind of don't want to do this myself because of air in the fuel lines.
 

Poor King

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Thanks .. read up on it and the glow plug method is much more accurate than pulling the injectors.
 

Mozambiquer

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Mar 21, 2015
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1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI
These ones you need to get the injector adapter for checking compression. It's almost impossible to use the glow plug holes. You'll need to get new heat shields when you remove the injectors.
Then the injector pump timing needs to be set with a dial indicator and adapter.
 

Poor King

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Then maybe I should just do the injection timing first and see if that solves the issue. And if that fails then It has to be the head.
 

Mozambiquer

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1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI
Then maybe I should just do the injection timing first and see if that solves the issue. And if that fails then It has to be the head.
Yeah, I'd do the timing, but there are more possibilities than just the head.
 

fatmobile

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an ALH M-TDI in a MK2, a 2000 Jetta
There's air in the fuel?
That will cause white smoke.
Solve that first.
Probably a fuel line restriction. A vacuum gauge on the fuel line will tell you.

You can turn the pump with the engine running. Like a distributor in a gasser.
Just don't loosen the lower nut much, so the sprocket doesn't touch it.
If it does touch it, it will just tighten it but the sparks are scary.

The cold start lever is your friend when it comes to timing.
Pull it, push it. See where it runs better.
It should get a little more clackity when you pull it because it advances the timing.
A pulse detector is the easiest/best way to set the timing.

For a compression test turn it by hand.
If it tries to go backwards near the peak the compression is over 350.
 

Poor King

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Just got done swapping in a 5spd after the 4spd left me stranded last week. After I figure out the linkages so that 1 and 5 are engaging correctly, then the process of troubleshooting why there is so much smoke. I mean, it's A Lot and it didn't take much to fill my whole parking lot with the fumes off it l.
 

Mozambiquer

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1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI
Just got done swapping in a 5spd after the 4spd left me stranded last week. After I figure out the linkages so that 1 and 5 are engaging correctly, then the process of troubleshooting why there is so much smoke. I mean, it's A Lot and it didn't take much to fill my whole parking lot with the fumes off it l.
When I did a 4 to 5 speed swap in my rabbit truck, I had that fun with getting the linkage to line up right, I think if I remember correctly, it's been a while, but I ground a bit off to make the engagement point for first gear a bit further over and thus to make room for the fifth gear. This was on the box between the seats, underneath. They say it's a lot easier if you get the five speed shifter box when you do the swap.
 

Seatman

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2007 Seat Alhambra 2L tdi
Not sure on these but my dad used to run these old Renault extra vans with the 1.6 na diesels.
For the timing it was usually to advanced equalled quick acceleration with black smoke on take off and to retarded equalled greyish white smoke all the time.

Used to just tweak and test and generally got them running sweet. Took a bit of faffing around though.
 

Poor King

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When I did a 4 to 5 speed swap in my rabbit truck, I had that fun with getting the linkage to line up right, I think if I remember correctly, it's been a while, but I ground a bit off to make the engagement point for first gear a bit further over and thus to make room for the fifth gear. This was on the box between the seats, underneath. They say it's a lot easier if you get the five speed shifter box when you do the swap.

I am getting so many variations of how to do this correctly I honestly don't know where to start. Some say they did not have to swap any 5spd linkages or shift box, and all it took was some fiddling with the shaft and 4spd bits, which is where I am right now. I feel like swapping 5spd everything because I do have all those pieces from my diesel MK2 Jetta (where I got the transmission from)
 

Mozambiquer

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1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI
I am getting so many variations of how to do this correctly I honestly don't know where to start. Some say they did not have to swap any 5spd linkages or shift box, and all it took was some fiddling with the shaft and 4spd bits, which is where I am right now. I feel like swapping 5spd everything because I do have all those pieces from my diesel MK2 Jetta (where I got the transmission from)
If you have the pieces, that would be the best to go with the 5 speed box. I didn't and fiddled with it until I got it to work.
 

fatmobile

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an ALH M-TDI in a MK2, a 2000 Jetta
I've swapped 4 to 5-speed in a Rabbit.
Without swapping the shifter box.
Other times it seems like I had to swap the box too..
If it's not enough right to left movement
you could make the vertical lever longer.

Clear fuel lines to and from the pump?
Air in the lines will cause white smoke.
Like mention ed timing will too.
To advance timing turn the top of the pump towards the head.
 

GlowBugTDI

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This may sound simple and dumb, but is it burning oil? Whats the white/blue smoke smell like?
 

Poor King

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Got the 5spd to engage in all gears and fortunately did not have to swap any 5spd linkage, shafts or the shift box. If you're standing in front of the car with the hood up, the link which is horizontal to you with ball joints on both ends...





...just flip it around. You may have to turn the ends to find the proper orientation for it to snap onto the ball joints, but that's it! (Nevermind the kink on the bar designed for the elevated transmission side. Matter of fact it's that kink, those couple of mm in length when flipped around does the trick).


Now to get this trucks smoking habit out of the way: I do not know where to begin. The fuel lines are too dark to see air in fuel line, though the line has definitely been changed to an aftermarket black tube. Also did I forget to me to mention there was NO filter in the intake!! Got the one from my Jetta in it but man, PO shenanigans drive me crazy.

The factory welded adjustment stop on the lever is still intact which means the tuning has not been messed with. I can't quite put my hands on it but it does not smell like diesel. But it's a lot of smoke and it is unbearable. Not sure if you can make out the color from this pic..



 

fatmobile

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north iowa
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an ALH M-TDI in a MK2, a 2000 Jetta
Yep, clear fuel line.
To the pump
from the pump.
Air in the lines could easily be your problem.

Cheap 1/4" hardware store vinyl will last for about a year.
2 feet before the pump and I think it's 3 feet going back towards the tank.

Simplest/first thing to try.
 

Poor King

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Bear with me as I try to comprehend how to go about this... will I not introduce air to the system when replacing with new tubing?
 

GlowBugTDI

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Yes, but you can purge the system. Do you have a mity vac? Otherwise any other small vacuum pump like that will work. Unfortunately ive tried it before and you can't just use your mouth to create enough vac off the end of a tube.
 

Poor King

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Closest thing I have is an extractor and to get the mity vac it's a 2 hour trip to harbor freight been super lazy since yesterday (finally got couple of days off), feel like loosening the timing belt from the tensioner and advancing the pump one tooth forward. Bad idea?
 

Mozambiquer

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1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI
Closest thing I have is an extractor and to get the mity vac it's a 2 hour trip to harbor freight been super lazy since yesterday (finally got couple of days off), feel like loosening the timing belt from the tensioner and advancing the pump one tooth forward. Bad idea?
The pump rotates, just loosen the three bolts on the front and the one on the back and rotate the pump. The one you'll need to pull the timing belt cover and line up the sprocket with the big hole on the lower nut, then use a wrench on the other ones. Rock the pump back and forth to change the timing. It's a lot easier and better for fine adjustments.
 

Poor King

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I'll do the tubing but reason I think it needs to be advanced is because with initial startup, the motor don't want to stay on without a good amount of throttle. Once warmed it will stay on, but it is idling on the verge of shutting off with non aggressive shifting/not shifting with high revs.
 

Poor King

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Advancing it did not help. I took off the belt and it's just too much smoke to be just one issue. The rear bolt for the pump was also missing. Air in the system is definitely one culprit, but I think the whole shebang needs to be timed along with the pump timing. Might as well get new belt and water pump.

Also the fact that another head was given along with the car raises questions... Currently asking the seller whom I purchased it from as to why the original seller/owner of 14 years handed an extra head along with the car.
 

Poor King

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The last owner suggests I should do a head gasket change. Lol wut.

He also mentioned that he advanced the pump before he sold it to me. Now I don't smell anything sweet out of the exhaust suggesting a bad head gasket. But low compression head/valves is a dead-on reason for extensive smoke.
 
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