NON OEM crank sproket

wyopel

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Location
WA
TDI
1996 B4V-270k, 1998 Jetta-140k
Non-OEM crank sprocket

I have 3 1z engines I am trying to keep going.
One of them I believe has a worn crank sprocket that I will be replacing soon.
OEM sprokets $100
Aftermarket (FEBI) $30
This not a job I want to do twice, so I am reluctant to put on aftermarket sprocket...but still $70 bucks is $70 bucks. Anyone have experiences with aftermarket Crank sprockets...good...bad. Any particular suppliers I should avoid?
 
Last edited:

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I’m pretty sure plenty on here have used that Febi, without issue

-Todd
 

wyopel

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Location
WA
TDI
1996 B4V-270k, 1998 Jetta-140k
Thanks.

Just remembered...I have a 1997 B4 that I am changing the sprocket on. I feel like I read that the torque procedure for the 1997 is different than the 1996, but I can't find where I read that. Is it 66 lbs plus 90 degrees? Oiled bolt or dry? Anyone know off the top of their heads?
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
I know the '98 is installed lubed. I thought the change to dry was for the ALH.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Thanks.

Just remembered...I have a 1997 B4 that I am changing the sprocket on. I feel like I read that the torque procedure for the 1997 is different than the 1996, but I can't find where I read that. Is it 66 lbs plus 90 degrees? Oiled bolt or dry? Anyone know off the top of their heads?
All AHU / 1Z use completely oiled bolt, threads and underside of shoulder. Torque sequence is as mentioned, 66 ft lbs and then additional 90 degrees.

Steve
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
use completely oiled bolt, threads and underside of shoulder.
threads get well oiled, and shoulder of stretch main bolt. its light oiling, do not use anti-seize. its light oil, hence lightly oil bolt, threads etc, with light oil. 0w-xx or a 5w-xx syn (high grade) works out real good.

to let wyopel know, i had seen VW gears for $100, and some places for ~$70 or ~$80. i may have seen from a VW parts listing for more reasonable. i cannt remember now, its been a while back.
im not the biggest fan of febi, seems bilstien may have bought into cheaper replacement parts. i really like bilstien for shocks, struts. the febi brand may have come about in the last 10 years back or so, as our models get older. its an ok brand, cheap in cost, not high end, but seems acceptable. i cannt say any of the febi parts i ve bought, and some i ve been 'forced' to buy, that i ve had failures. i have at least one of those gears, its ok. prob replace every so often. like when you decide to do the crank seal under there. just swap a new one in(??). maybe i bought mine from PP, they are ok.
 

wyopel

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Location
WA
TDI
1996 B4V-270k, 1998 Jetta-140k
Thanks again everyone. I could have sworn I read in this forum that ahu was put in dry while alh was put in oiled...or the other way around. Oiled it is.

I think I had febi motor mounts once and ended up replacing them after less than a year. Front seal looked fine. I expect that will last until the next timing belt.
 

wyopel

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Location
WA
TDI
1996 B4V-270k, 1998 Jetta-140k
Thanks again everyone. I could have sworn I read in this forum that ahu was put in dry while alh was put in oiled...or the other way around. Oiled it is.

I think I had febi motor mounts once and ended up replacing them after less than a year. Front seal looked fine. I expect that will last until the next timing belt.
 
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