To make money? That's what they're in business to do.If there is nothing special, then why does Bosch sell such an expensive fixture for VE and VP pumps? Seems they are screwing a lot of shops out of a lot of money if there is nothing to it.
And I am genuinely asking because I do not know. I trust DFIS to do the job. I've seen the equipment, nobody besides an actual Bosch shop has this equipment (they are picky about who they even will sell the stuff to).
They've also got equipment for K-jet stuff, as well as the old mechanical gasoline injection systems (like BMW and MB used).
Special tooling is always set up for efficiency with what the business and the customer/stakeholder needs. Taking apart and installing parts. Special tools to increase efficiency. I have a good idea of what goes on behind the curtains seeing that I design tooling. To take apart and put things together. That's just one small part of what I do.So you don't know either. That was kind of what I was expecting. I know they do test the pump "off the car", because they spin it up just as it would be if it was on the car, and of course on the electronic ones, there is the plug in computer aspect to it, too. But beyond that, I am going by their word. If I was closer, I would have already paid them a visit. I've been to the local Bosch shop before, but they wouldn't invest in the electronic upgrade to their test benches.... and now, shocker, they are out of business. But beyond the electronic parts, the meat and potatoes underneath was similar, and I watched them set up and calibrate the old inline Bosch pump from an OM617 engine, and it was a very involved process of tweaking and adjusting that nobody anywhere would have been able to do on their own. They also did all my IDI VE pumps, and it was a similar process although it doesn't use the same type of adjustment setup (obviously).
I'm just hoping DFIS stays in business for the foreseeable future.
That's all fine...cool that you got to witness that. But you don't need to have all of the Bosch equipment to tear down and build these pumps. We're talking about the 1.9 VE pumps in these vehicles.I watched them set up and calibrate the old inline Bosch pump from an OM617 engine, and it was a very involved process of tweaking and adjusting that nobody anywhere would have been able to do on their own
Ok then. What in your mind, on these pumps, constitutes a rebuild? Replacing a damaged part with OEM? If you're trying to say I only resealed and cleaned, that was part of what I did. Forget about the whole resetting the plunger height to OEM specs? How about lapping the supply pump plate surfaces?All I am intent on making clear here is that "taking apart, cleaning, and putting back together with new seals" is NOT the same as "rebuilding".
That is not true for any Bosch VE injection pump, only for Bosch VP pumps (VP30, VP37, VP44, etc.). See the image I attached. Quantity adjustment is done purely mechanically there.How do you call it "purely mechanical" when it has a quantity adjustor that's controlled by the vehicle's ECU?
They classify the VP37 though in the VE/series family, do they not? Yes they are physically different pumps.To clarify, Bosch VE is a purely mechanical injection pump, and they do need calibration on a bench, there's no way around it. The pumps the 1Z/AHU/AFN/AVG/ALH/... come with are called VP, VP37 to be exact. For the VP37, quantity control is done by the HDK and therefore you can probably get away with just setting the plunger lift mechanically and later IQ with VCDS.
Well yes, if you're rebuilding a transmission you check all of the bearing bore diameters to ensure that you are going to get the appropriate bearing fit when you rebuild. Of course you won't (or would hope a shop doesn't) reuse a case that has out of spec diameters for critical things like bearing fits. But after that, it's just a case. Clearance fits. Our little pumps don't have that. Yes you want to ensure the piston bore is not damaged for us, that the timing pin doesn't have any slop in its bore in the roller ring, etc. There are a few things to check along the way.Plenty of people have M&P'd timing belts and gotten away with it, too. And plenty haven't. It still is not the correct way to do it.
I could literally write a book on the Crimes Against Mechanicals I have seen.
And no, lots of transmission rebuilders DON'T reuse the case, because they actually know what to check and where to look to see if the case can even BE reused. (incidentally, this is becoming an issue in the domestic hot rod world, as good TH350 and TH400 cores are being depleted, and they've long since been out of production).
We can agree to disagree, and this is largely semantics, but I am just providing the other side.
And yes, a VP is an extension of the VE line. VE just is short for verteiler, which is a German word for distributor.
Which I would imagine happens more times than not. You have obviously done your due diligence to get it right. IPs and turbos are no way as simple as carburetors, alternators, starters, etc. With the cost of those 2 parts, I tip my hat to anyone successfully repairing those.when people screw up their pumps
I believe it! The first 11mm pump I opened up had some bad gouging on the housing walls where shrapnel was sent through the pump and damaged a lot of the internals. Damaged the roller plate and rollers as well as a few other items. Plunger keeper pin in the roller plate had a burr and you couldn't push it through the plate to release the plunger assy. So I called that a loss. There are a few salvageable parts like the head and such on that pump for converting my 10mm to an 11mm, but then again the new OEM pieces I would need to do that would cost me more than I could pick up a used 11mm pump for. Just gotta play the ROI game with that so for the time being I'm just keeping the 10mm as is, and I have a bunch of 11mm paperweight parts.Which I would imagine happens more times than not. You have obviously done your due diligence to get it right. IPs and turbos are no way as simple as carburetors, alternators, starters, etc. With the cost of those 2 parts, I tip my hat to anyone successfully repairing those.
My first TDI (99.5 J) wore out the pump in less than 50k miles. DFIS replaced most all of the internal components, they said the thing had started eating into the case. Can only guess it was the LSD back then.
Lol yeah, potentially. Although I'm kind of doing a few headlight retrofits on the side when I have time and a few other things. I'd help out some local TDI people if need be but I can't see myself doing it a lot, lots of other maintenance on my other vehicles and things I have to do. Between that and work not much time at the end of the day. Might be more do-able when I have a shop to work as wellAs I understand it the 10mm pump is satisfactory for all but the highest HP mods.
You know you could start a little side business, most folks have no bidness inside those pumps beyond leaky seals.
Most folks would be happy to spend 4 or 5 hundred to have a working pump.
The way the VE engine holds up, they'll be around for a while.
Thanks. I will do that and report back. It seems like a pretty minor noise. But not normal.Take the serpentine belt off, see if you still have the noise. If you do, it's either the pump, or something driven by the timing belt. Idlers, tensioner, water pump....
Thanks. I have a spare alternator, but if it is the problem then I will replace it and then replace the pulley on the bench.Yep, if you remove the belt and it goes away that's probably the pulley on the alternator. Reasonably inexpensive but you do need the two bits to get it off and put the new one back on. SOMETIMES it can be done with the alternator in the car (if its not stuck on too tightly -- I've had to pull it and put the bits in a bench vise to get enough torque to remove one before.)