No Start

[smos1]

So, its a 96 B4V with about 175k, nothing recently has been done to it and has absolutely no problems with starting in the past. Head was redone about 2 yrs ago (I was losing coolant) and the TB was done at that time.
I was on the freeway the other day traveling about 65 mph, and it abruptly stopped running. I briefly looked at the dash and saw an oil light and then battery light but more lights may have been on... I was concentrating on getting off the road...
I'm not a mechanic by any means but am usually able to work my way through with some guidance. I've done some looking around on here and I'm not sure where to begin looking for the problem.
I went through the no start list, looked under the hood for loose wires, switched out the 109 relay with a new extra I had, other than that still not sure where to go from there.
glow plug light is on when the key is on, and everything operates as normal except for the starting part. It turns over but that's it. All the electrical seems to work as normal.
Is there a Guru out there, or a "Guru in training" that would be interested in a little trouble shooting? I'd happily pay for your time. I'm trying to avoid taking it to the mechanic until I've found the problem, rather not pay them for the trouble shooting part.
thanks

 

[annieneff]

Crack the injectors and see if you're getting any fuel to them. Sure sounds like the pump to me if it's not the tb blowing up.
I'm in Seattle area. Pm me if you'd like a hand in looking it over.

 

[rdkern]

Have you looked at the T-belt area?

 

[914fan]

Check for voltage at the fuel solenoid. If you have 12v then relay 109 should be good.

If it's good check timing marks. Your crack gear may be moving.

If the marks are good, open a fuel line and crank the engine to check for fuel out of the pump.

Personally I'm guessing 109. Keep in mind some go bad, and some will still work intermittently. I replaced mine some months ago ( factory original) after years of this exact thing happening. I also had it buck when on cruise control and the Speedo would jump around. That's also resolved after a new 109.

 

[Abacus]

To test if it's the 109 relay or wiring, run a jumper wire from the battery to the top of the injection pump solenoid (the one where the white/black wire attaches with the 8mm nut) and see if it clicks and starts then. That bypasses the wiring and 109 relay, so if it runs then, you've narrowed your search area considerably.

 

[artie b]

When it stopped on the highway, any smoke or sudden deacceration?

 

[Abacus]

A chafed wire would shut it down on the highway. Specifically the white/black one to the IP that I mentioned.

 

[Rapidrob]

I just had the same type problem repaired. Everything was running at 65 MPH and then nothing. It was if the ignition switch was turned off.
( ignition switches can/do go bad )
No abnormal sounds,just no start /run. I could smell raw diesel fuel being pumped out of the exhaust pipe.
I did not have a VAGCOM to verify why the engine quit. I had it towed to the VW specialty shop and the timing belt had jumped a couple of teeth on the fuel injection pump. They told me this is common on old belts as it takes a lot of force to keep the FIP running.
At least it did not break and destroy the engines head and valve train.
I had them replace the belt,idler pulleys and water pump. The engine is running like it should now.

 

[smos1]

finally got around to actually looking around and took off the cover for the TB....and the TB is toast....
Whats the next step? How can I determine how much damage was done?

 

[ToddA1]

At this point, I'd toss a new belt on it and see if it starts.

I'm guessing you've been cranking it, trying to get it to start, so prepare for the worst.

-Todd

 

[annieneff]

Regrind head. New valves. Maybe more. Probably more. $1500.00 to have someone do it, and that's on the cheaper side.
If the car is in any condition part out the engine and buy an afn from member Frans. Same price +\-. Better stuff.
Good luck!

 

[Abacus]

Sorry to hear about the bad news.

Time to find a decent TDI mechanic or DIY if you have the time & tools. The head is trashed and will need a rebuild or replacement. Contact member Franko6 on here for excellent TDI specific head work at very reasonable prices (his head rebuilds are a work of art, see picture). Add in a new timing belt, gaskets, and ancillaries and it'll cost about $1k in parts, then figure 4-8 hours to swap it, more if DIY.

 

[ToddA1]

A cheaper alternative would be a R&R with a good, used head. Look for a partout in the classifieds.

-Todd