No power at all..

Internaut

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2018
Location
US
TDI
'98 Jetta
Ok hopefully this is the last thread I have to make for help, but I really need to get this beast in good shape for work.. it's making no power and it struggles to get to highway speeds. The only way I can get to 65 is if it's a downhill slope or completely flat and it's hard to maintain that speed. The day I bought it I drove home going about 85. I've been doing A LOOOOOT of maintenance to this thing so I know it's from something I did.. but I just can't figure out what.. Going to work today I was driving up a very slight hill and I put the pedal to the floor and it doesn't change in RPM or speed at all, it's like an old Rabbit but probably a lot worse.. I went full throttle in 1st gear and could only make about 8 psi.. I unplugged the hose going to the wastegate and it started to act weird.. I made about 10 psi on a 1st gear pull and then cruising at 55 in 5th I was making 12 psi..?

What I've done in diagnosis
line inside ECM
line going to ECM
All lines from N75
I've ruled N75 out of being the problem as I replaced it temporarily with a manual boost controller (maxed out) and nothing changed.
The wastegate moves completely and freely - I applied pressure through the wastegate hose and watched the movement
The only engine codes I have are P1403, P1550, and P0380. I found a small boost leak in one of the silicone couplers which was audible, which I did a temp fix with duct tape and epoxy.

I'm really starting to think it's a fueling issue. I replaced the fuel filter very recently. My area of concern is when I did a head gasket change, I tried to clean the nozzles with a very fine wire brush.. I'm thinking that might have really screwed up the spray pattern. And I also sheared off the fuel return banjo bolt so to get me by I made a homemade banjo bolt.. I think what could be happening is the fuel isn't properly returning to the tank because of the banjo. Does anyone happen to know the bolt thread size?

Every time I start up there's a large puff of white smoke.. which I'm pretty sure is smoke from fuel.. Just one big puff and a little bit more if I give it fuel but as soon as I'm driving there's no smoke at all. My coolant reservoir level has been very solid for a while, as for my oil level.

It starts up almost instantly every time and idles great and I can hear the turbo spool loud and clear. It seems to run pretty well at lower speeds besides being incredibly slow. constant speeds above 50 seem to get pretty iffy

Hypothetically, if the fuel were to not return properly, wouldn't it then drain into the cylinders and then on startup all the fuel gets burnt up? and since the fuel isn't returning the injectors would have very little flow and then not give enough fuel hence why I have no power.

I'm debating on whether or not I should buy new nozzles due to possible damage from my "cleaning", but I will definitely buy a new banjo bolt if I can find the size..
 
Last edited:

h.ubk

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2016
Location
Idaho
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI with 1Z Engine
You could have an injector issue. When the engine is running try loosening each injector line and see if the engine sounds any different (starts sputtering). You could be running on 3 cylinders. I had the same issue with white smoke on startup and low power which was fixed with rebuilt injectors, but my car would run at freeway speeds with no problem.

h.ubk
 

Internaut

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2018
Location
US
TDI
'98 Jetta
I did as you said and loosened the line nut on each injector and everytime it started to sputter/chug and the engine shook violently.. I pulled the return line off that goes to the injection pump and it started spewing fluid out of the injection pump's return nipple.. is that normal? And what's entailed in an injector rebuild? Do they replace parts of the body, or is it pretty much just new nozzles?
 

h.ubk

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2016
Location
Idaho
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI with 1Z Engine
An injector rebuilt gives you new nozzles. The body of the injector is disassembled, cleaned and balanced. At least it sounds like all four of your injectors are working about the same.

Have you checked your air filter?

You could also look into cleaning the intake manifold. I know this will hit performance, but I'm not sure if it is entirely causing your issue:

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/...l-cleaning-of-carbon-build-up-mk4-tdi-engine/

h.ubk
 

Internaut

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2018
Location
US
TDI
'98 Jetta
Air filter is almost brand new. I deleted the swiss cheese and made my own cold air intake.
The intake manifold is spotless inside, when I did the head gasket I degunked it. I would like to do a compression test but I don't have the tools to do so unfortunately
 

Internaut

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2018
Location
US
TDI
'98 Jetta
I think it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, because it just sounds like dog poo honestly.. The exhaust is straight pipe turbo back so I can hear it loud and clear
 

Ol'Rattler

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
PNA
TDI
2006 BRM Jetta
There is a Vary Good chance that your OBD2 cable might be of some help. Clearly, you have an emission problem and your cable should be able to read emission fault codes. See if it will do a scan for fault codes. If it reports some codes, post them here by code number.

Check readiness status with your OBD2 cable. Study this: http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/readiness.php to learn about what readiness is. The explanation is for VCDS, but most any OBD2 scanner should display the same info in a slightly different format.

Some people say you have to have VCDS. Kinda of a half truth. While VCDS is a VG tool to have in your tool box a generic OBD2 scan tool can certainly be useful if it reads OBD2 fault codes and shows readiness for your car.
 
Last edited:

Internaut

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2018
Location
US
TDI
'98 Jetta
There is a Vary Good chance that your OBD2 cable might be of some help. Clearly, you have an emission problem and your cable should be able to read emission fault codes. See if it will do a scan for fault codes. If it reports some codes, post them here by code number.

Check readiness status with your OBD2 cable. Study this: http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/readiness.php to learn about what readiness is. The explanation is for VCDS, but most any OBD2 scanner should display the same info in a slightly different format.

Some people say you have to have VCDS. Kinda of a half truth. While VCDS is a VG tool to have in your tool box a generic OBD2 scan tool can certainly be useful if it reads OBD2 fault codes and shows readiness for your car.
I used my fleabay OBD2 scanner and it only found 3 codes.. not sure if that's because that's really all there is or if it can't scan the other codes. Either way the codes were:

P1403: (most likely due to the EGR delete)
P1550: (I had a small boost leak in a charge pipe coupler which I temporarily sealed with duct tape until the new coupler arrives.)
P0380: (something to do with the glowplugs.. not really sure what it is but the glowplug light never comes on..
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
I used my fleabay OBD2 scanner and it only found 3 codes.. not sure if that's because that's really all there is or if it can't scan the other codes. Either way the codes were:

P1403: (most likely due to the EGR delete)
P1550: (I had a small boost leak in a charge pipe coupler which I temporarily sealed with duct tape until the new coupler arrives.)
P0380: (something to do with the glowplugs.. not really sure what it is but the glowplug light never comes on..
Where are you located? I have Vag-com and am in Des Moines. Let's get this thing fixed!

Steve
 
Top