NMS Timing Belt Change

psteichen

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2017
Location
Minnesota
TDI
2000 Beetle
I'm in the middle of a timing belt swap on a 2012, and I realize that the kit didn't come with new bolts for the injector pump sprocket. As they are torque+angle, I assume they are single use stretch bolts? Can I buy just those 3 bolts from VW or somewhere. Cheap kit šŸ¤¦

Also, I wasn't going to change the stud for the tensioner even though the kit does include a new stud. Seemed unnecessary. But now I realize the nut that goes on it is also torque+angle, so I suppose I have to?

If I do change the stud, do you just hand tighten the stud with a pliers, and then torque+angle the tensioner nut during the tensioning phase?

Any advice appreciated. The last TDI I did the timing belt on was 5 years ogo.
 

AverageAndy

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Location
Phoenix, AZ
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL, 2013 Golf TDI 6MT, 2013 Jetta TDI 6MT (R.I.P.)
I did this around 10K miles ago using this kit:


I didn't take off motor mount, so I did change the tensioner stud as gripping it with vice grips damaged threads slightly. Adjusting bolts for both the cam and HPFP sprockets were reused. I did replace harmonic balancer bolts as per kit.

If I do change the stud, do you just hand tighten the stud with a pliers, and then torque+angle the tensioner nut during the tensioning phase?
Yes, that is correct.
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
The purpose of the stud is to allow you to remove and replace the tensioner without having to remove the motor mounts. Frankly, it took me longer with this "pro method" that it would have if I removed the mount. If you are going the proper way, then the tensioner will come off the stud without motor mounts being in the way, in which case all you have to do is replace the new tensioner and do the tightening plus the angle as per manual. Tensioner stud is not a maintenance item and does not need to be replaced.

If you do decide to go with the "pro method", there are recommendations out there that the stud needs to be torqued to 15Nm. Some older engines with same stud type recommend that torque, they also recommend Loctite, but I decided against that since original stud did not have Loctite on it. I ended up using a crowfoot wrench to have enough clearance to tighten the stud to 15Nm. That produced about 45 degrees extra movement from hand tight. If you want to approximate that way.

My next timing belt change will include motor mounts removal, so I can have more space. And even if I decide to remove and replace the stud, I will make sure it is tightened to 15Nm also.

Lastly, I ended up replacing all bolts that were marked for number plug angle. ErWin manual recommends replacing them, they are too inexpensive to risk them snapping.
 
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