new to me 2005 passat wagon on a tow dolly . WELL THAT DIDN'T LAST LONG

thundershorts

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west chester pa
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2015 passat tdi sel premium 2015 golf s tdi gls tdi b5.5, 2002 eurovan,Peugeot 505 td,Citroen cx25 prestige
You might be better off with a used caliper rather than the autozone one, or rebuild your original one. Sounds (pun intended) like you need a lift pump, they don,t cycle, just run constantly if functioning properly. I'd change the brake hose first and you'll probably cure that brake problem.
 

dieselxj

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Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Location
texas
TDI
2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
the wagon is still rolling. The rear brake seems to have settled in a bit. I have been getting a honest 34.8 mpg. average. Just hitting 5000 miles since purchase this week. I figured since i have a discounted car, i would splurge on a Ross Vcds. and i have had to use it twice already. Today i got a check engine light on a throttle lift. It turned out to be a Mass airflow . i cleared the code and it has not come back yet.
But what i do have on a recurring basis is related to the PRND indicator. i get the same codes, but no check engine light
18158 supply voltage
18238 pressure control valve 4 1830 short to plus
18223 pressure control valve 1 1815 short to plus
if my research was any good, this could be a lot of things, but likely a ground problem or loose wire at the TCU under the front passenger floor?

when i clear the DTC's the shifter indicator comes back for a few seconds and then goes all red

i read there is a ground wire near the passenger headlight? and there are 2 others? where are the other 2 ground wires

The car has been running ok. Last week during a cold snap i did not wait for the glow plug light to go out, and the car started in limp mode i guess. A really harsh shift into reverse, then fwd with no shifting after that. I pulled over both times and shut down and restarted after waiting for the glow plug light and had no issues for the rest of that day it did that twice so far. Is the starting in Limp mode just related to starting the car too soon after Key on, or is it indicative of something else.

any help on what else can cause the 3 transmission codes.

thanks
 

Mozambiquer

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Joined
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Location
Versailles Missouri
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2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
the wagon is still rolling. The rear brake seems to have settled in a bit. I have been getting a honest 34.8 mpg. average. Just hitting 5000 miles since purchase this week. I figured since i have a discounted car, i would splurge on a Ross Vcds. and i have had to use it twice already. Today i got a check engine light on a throttle lift. It turned out to be a Mass airflow . i cleared the code and it has not come back yet.
But what i do have on a recurring basis is related to the PRND indicator. i get the same codes, but no check engine light
18158 supply voltage
18238 pressure control valve 4 1830 short to plus
18223 pressure control valve 1 1815 short to plus
if my research was any good, this could be a lot of things, but likely a ground problem or loose wire at the TCU under the front passenger floor?

when i clear the DTC's the shifter indicator comes back for a few seconds and then goes all red

i read there is a ground wire near the passenger headlight? and there are 2 others? where are the other 2 ground wires

The car has been running ok. Last week during a cold snap i did not wait for the glow plug light to go out, and the car started in limp mode i guess. A really harsh shift into reverse, then fwd with no shifting after that. I pulled over both times and shut down and restarted after waiting for the glow plug light and had no issues for the rest of that day it did that twice so far. Is the starting in Limp mode just related to starting the car too soon after Key on, or is it indicative of something else.

any help on what else can cause the 3 transmission codes.

thanks
I'd pull the TCM out and look at it. It's in the passenger side floor board under the carpet. They can get wet and start to act weird. I had mine short from the can wire to ground, and it threw in into limp mode, which sounds like what you described, but that wouldn't be from not letting the glow plugs cycle all the way. My guess would be moisture in the TCM.
 

BobZ

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Jul 6, 2005
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05 Passat tdi, 15 Passat TDI SE auto, 06 Sierra 6.6 DMax
I had a transmission issue a number of years ago to where the dealership replaced the transmission. I drove it home and the issue re-appeared within a couple hundred miles of driving it. Returned, diagnosed and another transmission put in. Drove home and within a couple hundred miles returned with same issue. Back to dealership which now got the regional expert in to assist in diagnosing - they could not track down the cause so they put another tranny in sending the others back for analysis. Guess what, it happened again and they said the only thing it could be was the TCM so they replaced that - and yup, same issue appeared within probably 500 miles this time. I had fixed the water infiltration issue very early in ownership by replacing the foam gasket under the fresh air intake with dum-dum and popped those rubber grommets out to let the water not sit in the cowl area. So, over time, the water that really never dries under the carpet and padding were the perfect environment to corrode a few wires. I tracked with my multi-meter and continuity that from the TCM to the ground strap, the wire was shot. I ended up replacing IIRC 3 wires including the pin from the TCM out to where I could find the corrosion was not visible. The weirdest part was where the wires were corroded were central in the wire and not close to the TCM or close to the ground link. I've got a lengthy history of automotive wiring from my life in 12v aftermarket products and never saw corrosion in the middle of the lines... talk about an expensive wire... Probably a $4,000 issue and was 1 month beyond what would have been a lemon-law car.
 

dieselxj

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Joined
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Location
texas
TDI
2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
i am going to try and check the grounds first i think. but i do want to get under the floor to check for moisture, i watched some videos on the tcu. it looks like a medium to low PIA job. i saw one guy pulled the passenger seat, and one did not.
on a separate note. is there a factory EGT system that can be accessed by the VCDS. i have not found one if there is one?

correction. i went in for the TCM inspection. NO visual or perceived moisture under the passenger floor. the area is clean and clear. I have not opened the enclosure box for the tcm yet. i am moving onto the grounds.

So one under the passenger headlight. Any hints on the location of the other 2 transmission grounds?

thanks
 

Mozambiquer

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Location
Versailles Missouri
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2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
i am going to try and check the grounds first i think. but i do want to get under the floor to check for moisture, i watched some videos on the tcu. it looks like a medium to low PIA job. i saw one guy pulled the passenger seat, and one did not.
on a separate note. is there a factory EGT system that can be accessed by the VCDS. i have not found one if there is one?

correction. i went in for the TCM inspection. NO visual or perceived moisture under the passenger floor. the area is clean and clear. I have not opened the enclosure box for the tcm yet. i am moving onto the grounds.

So one under the passenger headlight. Any hints on the location of the other 2 transmission grounds?

thanks
I'd be sure to open the TCM plastic box and look at it, then you can pry the aluminum cover off the TCM and make sure you don't have any corrosion on the motherboard. There's also a ground wire splice down by the TCM that has caused problems with some people. I soldered them together when I had the transmission problems with my car.
 

thundershorts

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Location
west chester pa
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2015 passat tdi sel premium 2015 golf s tdi gls tdi b5.5, 2002 eurovan,Peugeot 505 td,Citroen cx25 prestige
As I recall, the splice that rots is about 10 inches from the tcm plug. you have to cut the braided wrap to find it. there are 3-4 brown wires in that splice, all grounds. Ground trees are found many places, tcm grounds to ground tree in right kickout.
 

dieselxj

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Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Location
texas
TDI
2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
Thanks for the info. Im not too inclined to open remove the tcm just yet. It looks new and clean down there. Im on my way to work. And I need a new hys reaervoir for my lift at home. So no under car stuff until next week at the earliest
What about the little circuit board under the shifter?
 

dieselxj

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Oct 3, 2020
Location
texas
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2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
Well I must have jiggled something right. The prnd light is normal. Except one problem I'm on the highway doing 78 miles an hour. And I don't think my torque converter is locked up. I'm running 78 miles an hour at 2700 RPM. I didn't write down what I was doing at this speed in the past but I think it was a couple of hundred RPM Les.
If I step on the gas just a little bit. The RPMs go up when I lift my foot the RPMs go down a couple of hundred. And then they come back up to 2700
 

dieselxj

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texas
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2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
It's like if I lift my foot the torque converter locks up for a second and then it goes back to not locked
 

dieselxj

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Location
texas
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2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
If I use the Tiptronic right side gate will that keep the torque converter from locking up
 

Rrusse11

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2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
Any vintage used car is going to cost a grand out of the gate. Brakes and rotors and a set of tires are a given, better budget for a battery too. Any semi knowledgeable seller is offloading it for a reason, frequently because they don't want to spend the money.
Sounds like you'll continue to short change it. The only way a tdi will last is if you're willing to fix it properly, and then look after it. You want a 200 mile commuter? It's going to cost.
 

Mozambiquer

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Mar 21, 2015
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2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
I think Russell was thinking he was replying to a different thread...
 
Last edited:

dieselxj

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Oct 3, 2020
Location
texas
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2005 passat wagon bhw BSM delete new transmission
I deleted that first part i was being mean and lashed out. sorry about that Rrusse the car was actually running better with the PRND light glitched out. To start that post again.

So I pulled into a store. And the prnd. Issue returned when I restarted.. So good time to make a note about cruise rpm. I was rite. With the prnd lite glitched out the transmission runs like I think it should back on the highway 78 to 80 mph indicated rpm under 2400. Lite acceleration is just steady slow rpm rise. With the prnd lite working the TC was never really locked up.
From last night after I cleared the trans codes. I had no Ross tech codes on engine or trans. so if that was normal then this is not a trans profile I like at all.
Since I don't have any other VW experience to compare this too. Im not really sure what normal is supposed to be. I have driven some cars that shift all the time like this one does after the code is reset. And others that are much more pick a gear and stay there.
I am still learning to use the rosss tech. I have not figured out how to get live. Data to stream. Plus I don'tt really want to be working my laptop at 80mph. I have a simple obdII reader that I can use on the highway to read and clear codes..

RRusse11, your comments are coming from a mechanical injected point of view and a manual transmission. Yeah i am a bit jealous of that. But i do like the size of the wagon, and i was plenty sick of over 10 years of rowing gears on all my cars. I have said it more than once. If i could have found a good ALH i would have jumped on it.
But this is what i got and i will have to make the best of it for now And Rrusse11 i don't consider this a vintage car or a $1000 car. Certainly not vintage enough. Funny how those 3 or 4 years make a lot of difference. and then a difference again a couple of years newer still and you get the diesel gate. I had a friend with a 09 jetta wagon tdi, and that car had a over $6000 warrranty repair on the fuel system, before diesel gate happened.

well back to the problem. I am still learning VCDS. and I did not run a vcds scan while the PRND light was working correctly, and the car was running down the road. But lets assume that the no lockup on the TC is not normal. Now I am actually thinking about a TCM issue after all. When it was throwing codes and driving well , I was inclined to think it was a ground or connection issue. But now i am not so sure. If it is in fact showing no codes and has no TC lockup . I am not sure what to check next, i do still want to check the grounds.
i was not kidding when i said the TCM box looks to be in very very good and dry condition. This car is a central texas car, so pretty dry and no salt. it has only been on the coast a few months, and it had this PRND light issue from day one after the tow home, even before i dropped it off the tow dolly.. it seems like it would be throwing codes if it TC is not locking up
i will try and put the vcds on it tomorrow night after work.
 

Mozambiquer

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Mar 21, 2015
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Versailles Missouri
TDI
2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
I deleted that first part i was being mean and lashed out. sorry about that Rrusse the car was actually running better with the PRND light glitched out. To start that post again.

So I pulled into a store. And the prnd. Issue returned when I restarted.. So good time to make a note about cruise rpm. I was rite. With the prnd lite glitched out the transmission runs like I think it should back on the highway 78 to 80 mph indicated rpm under 2400. Lite acceleration is just steady slow rpm rise. With the prnd lite working the TC was never really locked up.
From last night after I cleared the trans codes. I had no Ross tech codes on engine or trans. so if that was normal then this is not a trans profile I like at all.
Since I don't have any other VW experience to compare this too. Im not really sure what normal is supposed to be. I have driven some cars that shift all the time like this one does after the code is reset. And others that are much more pick a gear and stay there.
I am still learning to use the rosss tech. I have not figured out how to get live. Data to stream. Plus I don'tt really want to be working my laptop at 80mph. I have a simple obdII reader that I can use on the highway to read and clear codes..

RRusse11, your comments are coming from a mechanical injected point of view and a manual transmission. Yeah i am a bit jealous of that. But i do like the size of the wagon, and i was plenty sick of over 10 years of rowing gears on all my cars. I have said it more than once. If i could have found a good ALH i would have jumped on it.
But this is what i got and i will have to make the best of it for now And Rrusse11 i don't consider this a vintage car or a $1000 car. Certainly not vintage enough. Funny how those 3 or 4 years make a lot of difference. and then a difference again a couple of years newer still and you get the diesel gate. I had a friend with a 09 jetta wagon tdi, and that car had a over $6000 warrranty repair on the fuel system, before diesel gate happened.

well back to the problem. I am still learning VCDS. and I did not run a vcds scan while the PRND light was working correctly, and the car was running down the road. But lets assume that the no lockup on the TC is not normal. Now I am actually thinking about a TCM issue after all. When it was throwing codes and driving well , I was inclined to think it was a ground or connection issue. But now i am not so sure. If it is in fact showing no codes and has no TC lockup . I am not sure what to check next, i do still want to check the grounds.
i was not kidding when i said the TCM box looks to be in very very good and dry condition. This car is a central texas car, so pretty dry and no salt. it has only been on the coast a few months, and it had this PRND light issue from day one after the tow home, even before i dropped it off the tow dolly.. it seems like it would be throwing codes if it TC is not locking up
i will try and put the vcds on it tomorrow night after work.
Try connecting vag-com when it's doing the torque converter non lock up. Also check on the engine side, if it loses communication with the TCM there will be a code from the ecm. Your best bet, though it'll take some time and patience, is to load test powers and grounds to the TCM. If they are good, I'd probably suspect the TCM. If you have to get a new one, make sure it's from a Passat tdi, since some other cars use the same part number module, but it won't work right, as I understand.
 

Rrusse11

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2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
diesel,

I think I posted in reply to page 1 of the thread, (you're right Mozambiquer) sorry, didn't realise the whole saga. 15yr old car, while not technically "vintage", is old by many's standards. I had a Mk6 common rail Golf, tune turbo DPF delete, etc etc. It was a blessing in disguise when it got totalled; rearended while stopped in a construction zone. Of course the payout didn't cover what I had in it, but it convinced me that an older, simpler car was in order.

I've got more money in my current ride than it cost me originally for the "10 Golf, starting with an auto>manual swap. I've also got over 65k and nearly 5 years of trouble free use. Coming up on my 2nd TB and at 188k on the clock, the platform will keep going for another 200k if I look after it, and manage to avoid getting hit, or hitting something else.
My understanding is the Passats are essentially an Audi, with all the complications of the breed for repair, service, and parts. Better suspension? yes,,,,,,,,, nicer interior and accoutrements, yes,,,,,,,,. But if you want reliable transport that gets you from A>B, I'd suggest you keep looking for a decent ALH. Lol, Texas commute at 80mph?, oh man does my car love 80, I'm jealous of you having the good roads and high speed limits.

Apologies for sounding a bit cavalier about your problems, keep at it and you'll have a nice vehicle, but it won't be cheap, BTW I paid $4k for my current Golf, 5yrs ago, so your $3500 for a low mileage Passat is about right.
 

MOGolf

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Jun 27, 2001
Location
underneath something
TDI
2001 Golf GLS TDI Reflex silver, rough road suspension and steel skid plate, 2004 Passat Variant, Candy White, rough road suspension and geared balanced shaft module, and much, much more. 2016 LR RR HSE TD6, 2019 Jaguar I-PACE
Many years ago, I had a fault for solenoid valve 2. I'd clear it and it wouldn't come back for a long time. Then it would reappear for no obvious consistency of conditions. I'd clear it. Then it started happening most often in winter months. Sometimes I'd clear it, let the car idle and warm up before driving and it wouldn't have the problem. Eventually, the problem happened more and more even in warm days.

There was no moisture at the TCM. Nor were there wiring harness issues.

I replaced solenoid 2 even though the diagnostic resistance checks indicated no problems, and cleared the fault. That didn't fix it as the TCM gave the fault code on the first use. I got a used TCM from a TDICLUB member who had done an auto-to-manual tranny conversion. I've had no problems since.

There was nothing visibly wrong with the TCM inside either. I suspect that the circuit controlling that solenoid was just bad in the TCM.

Maybe another member who did a conversion has a TCM gathering dust or still sleeping in the footwell that could be offered up for a reasonable price.
 

pharmerman

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Joined
Mar 28, 2001
Location
I-94
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1996 Passat, maroon (gone but not forgotten), 2002 Passat GLX v-6 Manual
so the dealer declined to do the front end alignment until unspecified repairs are made to the suspension. I finally got a good rotation on the tires, and the car was driving much better this morning, I went to get the bad tires replaced, and i put the brand new tires back on the front, and you guessed it the out of balance returned,. so the out of balance is following the rims not the tires. The previous owner said he switched to steel wheels because he cracked a few aluminum rims and he wanted something more durable. Well it seems there may have been a bent rim or 2 up front. One of the good tires was installed backwards, The tire shop fixed that for free. But now i have to rotate the old tires back to the front and see how that goes.
I ordered a PDF service manual from the internet, over 8000 pages, with no index. yes not a typo 8405 pages the information is there, it is just extremely difficult to use. and i can not find any thing in the manual newer than 2004, So the advertisment for the manual that said it goes for 2005 may be a error. i am going to return the manual for a refund.
I just could not bring myself to drop the $200 for a ross tech cable. I am really not sure at all if i am going to keep this car. So far it has been a big loser. $200 today for tires that looked pretty good, but turned out to be crap, could not bring myself to spring for a full set of 4 tires in the proper size until i decide if i am keeping the car. Yes the Previous owner was running 215-45r17's, so the speedo reads 5mph faster than you are going.
i think my " BRAKE' warning light is actually brake pads. I finally got a good look at the front pads doing the tire rotation, and they are pretty thin. then i looked at a new set of front pads and i am pretty sure my front pads are at the wear indicators. So New set of front brake pads with a lifetime warranty. $45.00 and a service manual to change the pads that is going to take me longer to find the correct service info than it will take to actually change the brake pads, if i can find the information at all.
So far i am about $350 into this car and it has not actually done any transporting except to go back and forth to the shop for service and parts
I truly feel your frustration, as I have purchased some real POS's in the past, BUT having said that, I realized the problem was me, not the cars. You see, my expectation of a used car was the same as if I were buying a new one; pay money and drive. Now I have enough experience to KNOW that if I'm buying a used car, especially over 100K miles, I automatically assume $3,000 above the ask price. The minute I'm get home, I'm doing coils/plugs (if a gasser, injectors if diesel), timing belt/chain, water pump & thermostat (flush the heater core, I promise it has never been done), control arm bushings/CV boots, and flush/replace all fluids including brakes. Why do all this? Because new cars cost a fortune, but once you get your used car absolutely dialed in, you'll be driving it about as long as most new car owners drive theirs. Plan on $3,000 per 100,000 miles driven. I just dropped a new engine into my daughters volvo s40 (salvage yard engine w/ 80k miles, $800, labor from my ace mechanic=$2500 +timing belt kit/water pump). If the body isn't rusted to hell, you can keep dropping in fresh engines & assorted parts indefinitely and always come out ahead in the long run. $36,000+thousands more in finance cost for a new car is a hell of a lot of used engines, transmissions, tires, brakes, and diagnostic cables. There's my flowery pep talk, stop psyching yourself out, go get the expensive cable so you can fix your ride and drive the bejeezus out of it for a decade or two.
 

pharmerman

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2001
Location
I-94
TDI
1996 Passat, maroon (gone but not forgotten), 2002 Passat GLX v-6 Manual
Also, don't miss opportunities to meet up at the GTGs in your area. These are wonderful opportunities to learn a TON about your car & save huge amounts of cash. I was stunned how much more I knew about my car than the dealer service people.
 
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