new to me 2005 passat wagon on a tow dolly . WELL THAT DIDN'T LAST LONG

[dieselxj]

well imagine that. the brake light comes on and the the brakes need to be serviced. But the story still sucks. Put on a new set of front brake pads. Pretty straight forward, watch a video and look through the FSM for about an hour to find a page that looked correct. make sure there are no hidden tricks in the procedure. Book says always replace the guide pin bolts at pad change. No mention of new bolts in several videos that i watched. So old used guide pin bolts it is. Pads go on no problems put a little light grease on the contact patches for the new pads, torque the old guide pins to 25Nm. Everything looks good. turn on the ignition, no brake warning light, yeah , still looking good. Step on the brake pedal to bring the new pads to bear on the disc, pedal goes to the floor springs back a little, does not go to the floor on the next press down. AND the pedal does not come back up!!!!! Pull the pedal up with my toe, let it sit for a few seconds. press again , good pedal, but not enough return on the pedal to shut off the brake lights. And there it is..... !!! fix one thing and something else breaks straight away. Drain a little fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, set the level to max. Still good pedal feel , but no return. Go for a drive, still no return. have to pretty much keep the pedal up with my toe or the brakes will start to drag, and i guess the computer senses that and puts the trans in limp. Pick the pedal up with my toe, and drive normally, or normally with my toe under the pedal holding it up.
i think i am done. any one want to buy a 2005 Passat Wagon TDI, No time in the North, no rust, 128000 miles clear Texas title BSM delete, recent transmission, and front axles

 

[MOGolf]

Toe adjustment is done by turning the tie rod. The rod screws into the tie rod end ball joint. This can be severely corroded.
At that time the tie rod end would be replaced. The ball joint end pops loose. The rod end may need to be cut off but if carefully done the tie rod threaded end won't be damaged.

Stay away from any shop that does not give you a detailed explanation of any repairs needed. "Unspecified" is not acceptable in most states. There are laws concerning the content of car repair estimates. Check your state's websites for information.

The gear selection display indicates there's a transmission fault. You need a code reader that can access the transmission controller.

You may be correct about the BRAKE and SERVICE MANUAL displays indicate the need for new front pads.

 

[dieselxj]

i am pretty sure replacing the front pads took car of the brake warning. Now i just need to sort out the lack of pedal return, which leaves the brake light on all the time and when driving there is quite a bit of brake drag you can feel. I also think the trans position is most likely the shift selector panel under the shift lever. bu
I really do think i am done I will give it one more try tomorrow, if i can't get it good enough to drive it to work. I think i really will sell it

 

[Nuje]

I ordered a PDF service manual from the internet, over 8000 pages, with no index. yes not a typo 8405 pages the information is there, it is just extremely difficult to use. and i can not find any thing in the manual newer than 2004, So the advertisment for the manual that said it goes for 2005 may be a error. i am going to return the manual for a refund.

$35USD gets you 24hr. access to download whatever VW manuals you want from link below. All of the manuals are fully indexed and hyperlinked from Table of Contents, as well as when referencing other sections.
Best deal out there.

erWin Online | Volkswagen of America | erWin

erwin.vw.com

 

[Diesl]

Sorry, so what is preventing you from driving this car?

it sounds like you might need to install new brake pads (and flush the fluid while you are at it), and if the wheels can't be balanced, maybe take a hydraulic spreader to them and get them back into round before mounting a new tire. Just do it one at a time, and use the spare wheel in the mean time. I have done that successfully even with an aluminum wheel that hit a pot hole bad and was 1" out of round.

 

[dieselxj]

i did put on the new front brake pads. that fixed the brake warning,, now i have the pedal not coming all the way up which lets the brakes drag and the brake light stays on. This is probably a spring failure either in the master cylinder, or the brake booster. And the trans gear indicator not working properly. , either way . too much hassle. the parts are more expensive than i am used to . it just seems to be one thing after another after another.
As far as not driving it. i put 250 miles on it yesterday and today just F$%%^ing with tires and a not alignment, and brake parts. I drive a minimum of 600 miles a week. 200 miles each way to get to work. If i can't get the car to do 78mph for 3 hours without shaking itself apart. I can't take it too work. earlier tonight i put the brand new tires back on the rear, and i can still feel them shaking at 60mph, and i have to keep my toe under the brake pedal to keep the brakes from dragging. I am going to try and rig some sort of home made return spring on the brake pedal in the morning. if I cant find a easy reason for the pedal return problem.
i feel i am also just waiting for the camshaft to fail. If that is all i had to worry about , i could live with it. But for a car to have this many problems with only 128000 miles. It just feels like the beginning of a Money pit. the previous owner spent over $5k in maintenance in the past 2 years. i live and work very near the ocean, about a mile from the breaking surf, and at work i park about 2.5 miles from the the surf. So salt air and blowing sand all the time.
i really wanted 40 mpg i would settle for 38mpg, but i don't think any one makes either.
I had my Kubota converted jeep and it would do it, just barely, but it got destroyed in the hurricane along with my shop. That is what started me on the VW TDI as maybe a new engine for a jeep. I got impatient and just went for a working car instead of a wreck with a good engine. And i wanted the Passat because it is the only VW with a longitudinal engine. Putting a transverse engine to longitudinal just adds more work to the conversion .

like i said earlier in this thread. i really wanted a ALH, but they just are not around much anymore.

i will give it a few more hours in the morning, but it looks like it wont make the drive to work again this week. just a bummer for a new to me car

 

[dieselxj]

ok a small win. and a note take things a bit lighter when working at dusk in a 90degF mosquito infested swamp at dusk.
brake drag fixed. When the pedal went to the floor after the new pad install, on the way up the pedal was snagged by a piece of errant sound guard/ trim up under the dash, This is a stiff piece of plastic , that is strong enough to displace the brake pedal from coming all the way up..

Does anyone have a recommendation for a new dipstick tube, mine is cracked out at the bottom. i am going to clean it up a bit and put some silicone sealant on it to keep the leakage down a bit .
but i am going to try and launch this thing to work this week. If nothing else breaks before 4pm departure.

thanks for the positive encouragement

 

[Mozambiquer]

ok a small win. and a note take things a bit lighter when working at dusk in a 90degF mosquito infested swamp at dusk.
brake drag fixed. When the pedal went to the floor after the new pad install, on the way up the pedal was snagged by a piece of errant sound guard/ trim up under the dash, This is a stiff piece of plastic , that is strong enough to displace the brake pedal from coming all the way up..

Does anyone have a recommendation for a new dipstick tube, mine is cracked out at the bottom. i am going to clean it up a bit and put some silicone sealant on it to keep the leakage down a bit .
but i am going to try and launch this thing to work this week. If nothing else breaks before 4pm departure.

thanks for the positive encouragement

Fcp euro has the dipstick tube. I really like my b5.5 tdi wagon, it's much different than a Ford or chevy, but a lot of fun after I got it completely up to par mechanically. I have vag-com, and it's a lifesaver. It's definitely worth the $200. You're not just buying the cable, you're buying the license and support. I actually got one of the old ones from the classifieds with unlimited vin's. I think I gave $150 but they're normally a lot more than that.

 

[zzdiesel]

Any wheels that are a problem replace them. Cheap at the wreckers.

 

[Zambee500]

$11 from our trusted vendors.

Oil Dipstick Tube (A4 BEW) (B5.5 BHW)

Aftermarket dipstick tube or funnel for A4 chassis TDIs with engine code BEW. This funnel attaches differently than the ALH one. They are not interchangeable. Will fit the B5.5 Passat....

www.idparts.com

I like FCP but their lower prices seem to get eaten up on shipping charges when you're only buying onesies and twosies. And if you spend enough to qualify for their free "economy shipping" it takes foreeeever.

If your old dipstick tube is fully cracked and broken off, i've read a rubber wine bottle 'cork' can be used in a pinch to stop the leaking at the metal tube entry point, if you remove the dipstick completely.

 

[MOGolf]

For a single part like the tube, you can get one through a local part store. I just checked one at random and they carry different brands. Priced as low as $8.48.

 

[dieselxj]

Trip complete . very underwhelming MPG. I did not break 30mpg. But I made it. I knew. 40 was going to be unattainable with this car. But I was hoping to get in the low to mid 30' s.
A couple of funny things. With the small tires. My Speedo is reading about 5moh fast. So 80 on Speedo is 75 on the GPS. But what is weird. Is the odometer is within a half a mile of the g p's. speed and distance at the 155 miles i tracked.
I thought that if the speed was off the odometer would be too.. So 29 mpg today with just myself , hand tools and 4 days of clothes. To me that is pretty crappy economy. I will give a read up on what should be expected.. And this mpg was calculated the only way I know how to do it accurately. Fill the tank to overflowing. Make the run. Then fill to overflowing again. The trip computer was telling me 32.4
Oh and my headlight adjuster us not working. And the fog lights are intermittent.
I hate to say it but the only thing I really like about this car is the hands free telephone. And I did not have to pay 3500 to get that.
But at least it made it .
I patched up the dipstick . in the morning I will see how it held up. Oh and the prop stick the p.o. was using for the hood. Chafed a nice hole in the brake fluidl reservoir. I patched that as well.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Trip complete . very underwhelming MPG. I did not break 30mpg. But I made it. I knew. 40 was going to be unattainable with this car. But I was hoping to get in the low to mid 30' s.
A couple of funny things. With the small tires. My Speedo is reading about 5moh fast. So 80 on Speedo is 75 on the GPS. But what is weird. Is the odometer is within a half a mile of the g p's. speed and distance at the 155 miles i tracked.
I thought that if the speed was off the odometer would be too.. So 29 mpg today with just myself , hand tools and 4 days of clothes. To me that is pretty crappy economy. I will give a read up on what should be expected.. And this mpg was calculated the only way I know how to do it accurately. Fill the tank to overflowing. Make the run. Then fill to overflowing again. The trip computer was telling me 32.4
Oh and my headlight adjuster us not working. And the fog lights are intermittent.
I hate to say it but the only thing I really like about this car is the hands free telephone. And I did not have to pay 3500 to get that.
But at least it made it .
I patched up the dipstick . in the morning I will see how it held up. Oh and the prop stick the p.o. was using for the hood. Chafed a nice hole in the brake fluidl reservoir. I patched that as well.

For some reason many of the vws I've had had the speedometer off by about 5mph. I have slightly bigger tires now which makes it right on, but my odometer is off. Even with that, running around, I've been getting 30-32 mpg but I'm not racing around, I drive pretty laid back, with once in a while an Italian tune up. Now, when I went out east, I set the cruise to 75 and drove, and I broke the 40 mark. That was loaded. Oh and my check engine light is on due to a deleted egr which hasn't been tuned yet. If you had vag-com, I'd tell you to check the torsion value, that can affect your fuel economy. Also the tires can really affect it, for some reason. If you use low rolling resistance tires, it'll make a big difference. I have Pirelli p4 tires, which are LRR tires.

 

[dieselxj]

I agree with the tires being. Part of the mpg issue. Smaller diameter is definitely not good for mpg.
I was on cruise. But at 82mph.
Mozambique. What us the biggest tire we can run?

 

[Tom in PT]

At speeds above 70 (actual) your mpg will take a big hit. I cracked the dipstick tube and got a new one but also used a piece of rubber heater hose with a clamp as a backup in case it ever happened again. Check your instantaneous mpg at 45 mph steady on level ground. My '05 passat sedan in good tune on summer fuel got around 50 in those conditions. Michellin Defender tires at 38 psi

 

[dieselxj]

the passat is still running and driving . yeah. new issue for today, how to get the roof rack cross bars off. I don't have a key, but i was able to pick one of the locks. That was the most fun i have had in a while. seriously, I wanted to learn lock picking since i was a kid. $ 17 on amazon, and i am a master lock picker. i went around and picked every lock in my house almost.
So i got the lock on the cross bar undone, the lock slides out about 3 inches, and it looks like the lock guards a allen key or something to opent the clamps. but it is not a allen key. It is very difficult to see in there.
any hints on what is inside to unlock the clamps, or where i can get a real key for the locks. now i have to pick the lock to open the guard, and then pick it again to close it. and lock picking is not instant by any stretch , or at least for me it is not instant. I am pretty sure these are factory cross bars. the lock unlock words are in German.

i am also still trying to figure out how to attach a image

 

[dieselxj]

got the cross bars off. cost me $50 for the locksmith to come and pick the lock that i already picked, and after that he was no help. I asked the locksmith to get or find me a key. he wanted $100 to make a custom key. After the caps were open, i finally got a good picture down inside the clamp. and it came rite off with a flat blade screwdriver

 

[dieselxj]

So that really did not last long. A 25 year old young man just smashed me in the pass side back door . in his brand new 2020 ford explorer. It bent the pass rear wheel 20 degrees. Passenger door, rear quarter panel, and rear bumper. So much for my tdi experience

 

[MOGolf]

 

[dieselxj]

does anyone have any practical experience on body repair for this style car. from what i can see initially. i need a rear passenger door rear passenger quarter panel, rear bumper, and i guess a new rear axle and either both rear suspension or for sure passenger rear suspension.
I would guess it is totalled, i showed a body shop guy a pic, and he said it looked pretty close to being done in .
if they total it is there any chance i will be made whole on the deal. I am into this car for about $4k

 

[Mozambiquer]

does anyone have any practical experience on body repair for this style car. from what i can see initially. i need a rear passenger door rear passenger quarter panel, rear bumper, and i guess a new rear axle and either both rear suspension or for sure passenger rear suspension.
I would guess it is totalled, i showed a body shop guy a pic, and he said it looked pretty close to being done in .
if they total it is there any chance i will be made whole on the deal. I am into this car for about $4k

One of the guys on here had his total out for close to 7k. You could also take what they give and buy the car back and either fix or resell it.

 

[DeliveryValve]

does anyone have any practical experience on body repair for this style car. from what i can see initially. i need a rear passenger door rear passenger quarter panel, rear bumper, and i guess a new rear axle and either both rear suspension or for sure passenger rear suspension.
I would guess it is totalled, i showed a body shop guy a pic, and he said it looked pretty close to being done in .
if they total it is there any chance i will be made whole on the deal. I am into this car for about $4k

I am currently rehabbing my wagon from a totaled wreck. Replacing the B-pillar and rocker panel skin with front and rear doors.

Post some pictures of the damage. But I am not sure if there is any practical advice one can give here if you never replaced panels and inner structures before. Body and structure damages are all unique and need to be seen in person to see what needs to be done.

One of the guys on here had his total out for close to 7k. You could also take what they give and buy the car back and either fix or resell it.

If you are talking about me, the insurance company stated my car has $7,500 worth of damage. We negotiated a $4,900 with them returning the car to me in August.

 

[Mozambiquer]

If you are talking about me, the insurance company stated my car has $7,500 worth of damage. We negotiated a $4,900 with them returning the car to me in August.

My bad, I understood that incorrectly. But still, $4900 isn't too bad. Makes me wish someone would hit my car that I paid $1000 for... I wouldn't really want that though...

 

[dieselxj]

hi thanks for the replies. I guess what i am looking for is if there is a standard labor or cost for the quarter panel and other standard prices for typical damages. Also i am very curious as to what the buy back price will be for me. is the math correct there. at $7500 minus $4900 so your buy back price was $2600?? i don't think i am willing to pay that to buy back my car. I was thinking to buy back in the $500 maybe a little more range for sure under 1000 for a buy back.

 

[dieselxj]

i can't seem to get any photos to attach. my pics are only on my computer, not on any URL or http; again is there a way to just attach from my computer or do you have to upload the photos to some third party site and then attach.

 

[DeliveryValve]

hi thanks for the replies. I guess what i am looking for is if there is a standard labor or cost for the quarter panel and other standard prices for typical damages. Also i am very curious as to what the buy back price will be for me. is the math correct there. at $7500 minus $4900 so your buy back price was $2600?? i don't think i am willing to pay that to buy back my car. I was thinking to buy back in the $500 maybe a little more range for sure under 1000 for a buy back.

I'll explain better. The repair cost of the car is $7,500. We negotiated value of the car at $5,700 for them to take it. I wanted to keep it and they gave me $4,900.


Regarding your pictures, the attached files button should work. If not, maybe your photos are too large and need to reduce them.

 

[Mozambiquer]

i can't seem to get any photos to attach. my pics are only on my computer, not on any URL or http; again is there a way to just attach from my computer or do you have to upload the photos to some third party site and then attach.

On the upper left hand corner of the screen, there's menu. On there is an option for media. Upload there, then you can insert into the post.

 

[dieselxj]

 

[dieselxj]

that will buff rite out

 

[dieselxj]

surprisingly hard to get a good photo of the bent axle. if you shoot if from the rear, you can see the wheel is not in the correct position, but you cant' see the other damage, if you shoot it from the side, you can't really see the wheel/axle bend very well at all