New Member/ 1996 1z Passat Wagon

[ToddA1]

That’s what I expected to hear. Wonder if someone swapped a gasser alt onto it. Never seemed to have any issues, though.

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

Too lazy to look it up, but did the Jettas get a lower amp alt? When I parted the rotbox, I thought it looked smaller than the alts on the B4, which are 120A.

The markings on the rear cover were worn away, so there’s little info there.

-Todd

The 90 amp from the ABA bolts right up but doesn't have the clutched pulley. I've used them in emergency situations and the case is slightly smaller.

If the markings were gone you might not catch it.

Use the 1998 Jetta (AHU) alternator. Then you can use the same INA pulley as the AHU and ALH, the VAG number is 022-903-119-C (not sure what the INA number is).

I do not know what the difference is between a 1996 1Z B4 and a 1998 AHU A3 Bosch 120A alternator is, but they are two different part numbers (VAG and Bosch) but the AHU one seems more readily available. It has been a while, but the last B4 TDI I had in here, that is what I did. Worked fine.

I don't think that part number is for 1Z / AHU...it seems to be for ALH (Mk4) and up, per VW they are different. I still come up with 028903119AA for Mk3 tdi 97-99.

Steve

 

[oilhammer]

Yep, you are right... and the older type AA pulley is still available. One of my sources has the listing wrong. I wonder what the actual difference is?

I suppose I could get one here and look.

EDIT: the difference appears to be the diameter where the belt rides. The ALH one is slightly larger than the AHU one. So the ALH one would work fine, it would just spin the alternator ever so slightly slower, and *might* require a longer belt, but I don't think the difference would be enough that the stock length belt wouldn't have enough adjustment left in the tensioner.

But the mounting to the alternator shaft and the spacing from the alternator looks the same.

 

[ToddA1]

But the mounting to the alternator shaft and the spacing from the alternator looks the same.

I suppose that would be why some people said it worked, although they reported the belt tracking was a bit off.

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

Yep, you are right... and the older type AA pulley is still available. One of my sources has the listing wrong. I wonder what the actual difference is?

I suppose I could get one here and look.

EDIT: the difference appears to be the diameter where the belt rides. The ALH one is slightly larger than the AHU one. So the ALH one would work fine, it would just spin the alternator ever so slightly slower, and *might* require a longer belt, but I don't think the difference would be enough that the stock length belt wouldn't have enough adjustment left in the tensioner.

But the mounting to the alternator shaft and the spacing from the alternator looks the same.

Good information to know...so if the mounting is the same then how is it that Gates has gotten this so very wrong then?

Steve

 

[oilhammer]

I've only ever used INA ones, so I cannot comment on Gates' issues.

 

[garciapiano]

I have a basically new pulley with about 40k on it if you want it. Pay shipping and it’s yours.

 

[HardToHandle]

So after a few emails (and a couple of pictures) I was finally able to convice a costumer service rep from gates that the issue was not that I ordered the wrong part, but the part in the box was wrong

I sent back the first one I ordered and the replacement I recieved was the same as the first

They say they'll send me a replacement once they get this mess sorted out, currently waiting for an update, I'll give it a couple more days

 

[oilhammer]

Shoot, I'd have an INA one that is correct in my hand in a couple hours, LOL.

 

[garciapiano]

For the record the gates part is just a repackaged INA.

 

[Steve Addy]

For the record the gates part is just a repackaged INA.

Yeah...that's typical. It doesn't surprise me one bit.

Steve

 

[oilhammer]

But they appear to be putting the wrong on in their box.

 

[HardToHandle]

Is there any way to find top dead center without the flywheel? Im going to do the timing belt and I cant comprehend any of the marks on the flywheel

I see that there is a mark on the harmonic balancer but I cant see anything lines up with it

Also is there a way to without the camshaft lock and injection pump pin?

Edit: Nevermind, I was able to find the correct mark on the flywheel by putting the lower timing cover back in along with the harmonic balancer to get it close so I could find the flywheel mark

 

[Steve Addy]

If you don't have pin or lock you can substitute other things, like 10mm long socket and a flat file, but you need to find substitutes, and you need to follow the prescribed methodology for belt replacement.

Doing this without those tools is like a 'why bother with anything' moment.

Bad practice does not lead to good results....just sayin

Steve

 

[HardToHandle]

If you don't have pin or lock you can substitute other things, like 10mm long socket and a flat file, but you need to find substitutes, and you need to follow the prescribed methodology for belt replacement.

Doing this without those tools is like a 'why bother with anything' moment.

Bad practice does not lead to good results....just sayin

Steve

I do have the tools, I just wanted to make sure if for whatever reason something gets out of place that I can put everything back to where its supposed to be

 

[Steve Addy]

Also is there a way to without the camshaft lock and injection pump pin?

Then I have to ask why you asked the above question, because that's completely different from, "if for whatever reason something gets out of place that I can put everything back to where its supposed to be."

Up to a point you can move things around all you want, but the minute you lock the camshaft and pump in position and knock the cam sprocket loose you're done, things don't move after that. Sure you can move the crank a smidge this way or that, and it'll sometimes do that on its own while you're trying to fit the belt, but you will need to be sure that it's back in position when you go to tension the belt, and you'll verify that when you do two manual rotations with everything fitted and done. If it isn't all in the proper place at that point then you'll have to go back and refit everything again.

It's not that tough, you'll be fine.

Steve