New-ish to club, new 2012 TDI SEL!

[Diesel Ed]

Well, after some searching and some looking around on your forum, online, etc, my dad decided his next car was going to be a Passat TDI. Originally the plan was to get a manual, and as you all know they're not that common, but my parents were flying to Denver this weekend and Emich VW out there happened to have a nice Platinum Gray TDI/6M in stock, so I sent them to go look at it. After test-driving it and talking numbers, the sales rep. mentioned that they did have a SEL w/ the DSG in stock, so they decided to drive that. That one was Titanium Silver with the DSG, Nav, Sunroof, 18's, etc. They ultimately decided that was the better car, seeing as my younger sister is just about to get her license, etc. So, my dad will break the new Passat in driving it home from Denver to southern MN.
I have already seen your n00b posts, including the break-in post, and I'll be advising him on how to properly break it in.
Anyways, they've sent me one pic of it so far:

I'll be sure to get more pics next week, as well as get it detailed and put some miles on it. I look forward to becoming a part of your community too!

 

[Oberkanone]

Tungsten Silver?

 

[Diesel Ed]

Yep, that's it. The car they were originally looking at was the Platinum Gray, this is the Tungsten Silver.

 

[TomB]

Very nice. You will love the car. The drive home will be awesome.

 

[Diesel Ed]

Yeah, too bad I won't be in it, LOL. I am going to do a mini-road-trip on Monday with it, I'm buying some old speakers from my Uncle, who is 2 hours away in the Twin Cities. I'm excited.

 

[gergg]

Beautiful, that silver is growing on me.

 

[Diesel Ed]

I have always loved grays and silver. I will do a full picture whoreage with my DSLR once it's home.

 

[Niner]

Breaking in the HPFP, which if it fails, is more expensive than the engine, is the bigger concern. Modern manufacturing techniques make drivbiwires claimed break in procedure obsolete since they started honing the bores with lasers. Just drive it normally, let the HPFP break in with diesel fuel with high lubricity under 400 micron wear scar for the first few tanks, preferably with a pinch of biodiesel, like a quart per tank, or something around B2 and call it good, don't rev it much past 3000, there's no need, it stresses that pump to death when you run the fuel lines at 2000 bar pressure on the common rail. We just don't know yet how these HPFP's will fare compared to the 2009-2012 models in the non Blue tec motors, too early to tell. RPM's square the load on the cam exponentially. Low RPM's are better, just put some load on the motor somewhere between 2000 and 3000 rpm, and the rings will seat fine, save redline for the race track folks and their race cars.

 

[Diesel Ed]

Thanks for the info Niner. Would you recommend running Power Service (white bottle till it warms up, obviously)? I told Dad to get a jug, but that doesn't mean he has to use it right away. He'll be using whatever he can get on the way home. I know MN has around 2-5% Bio in the summer blend, and whatever they put in #1, but we will probably use a Blend, as it's not going to get super cold anymore.

Also, we're no n00bs to diesels, being on the farm, but we are new to the TDI, so just keep that in mind.

 

[740GLE]

HPFP's will fare compared to the 2009-2012 models in the non Blue tec motors

just because VW bought some tech rights to clean diesel technologies from MB doesn't make the Passat a Bluetec. MB owns the term bluetec and you'll only see it on MB engines.

That's like saying a Sprinter has a TDI engine in it.

 

[Niner]

Thanks for the info Niner. Would you recommend running Power Service (white bottle till it warms up, obviously)? I told Dad to get a jug, but that doesn't mean he has to use it right away. He'll be using whatever he can get on the way home. I know MN has around 2-5% Bio in the summer blend, and whatever they put in #1, but we will probably use a Blend, as it's not going to get super cold anymore.

Also, we're no n00bs to diesels, being on the farm, but we are new to the TDI, so just keep that in mind.

It's March in MN, I am sure your fuel is winterized, so I would go and get the 96 ounce, or whatever size it is close to that bottle of the Power Service Silver bottle, not the white, and dose at 6 oz per 12 gallons per fill up, or thereabouts. That's what I am running through mine. I believe that MN is a B2 state currently for all diesel fuel, it was mandated a few years back, correct me if I am wrong? If it's seasonal, I'd still add some in, a quart per fillup over 12 gallons, so you at least get somewhere from B 1.5 to B2. At that level, it would be hard pressed in suspension to fall out and solidify with winterized diesel fuel. I run the white 3- 4x per year in my fuel, just to take the minor residual moisture out of the tank. I'd also run white in Sept or Oct, and buy fuel at major busy stations with high turnover, to assure I get winterized fuel before a nasty cold spell. Just depend how fast dad burns through a tank of fuel. If he's burning one up every two weeks, shouldn't be a problem. The silver bottle bumps the cetane rating more, that's what I look for when up in the mountains here, high cetane makes for easier starting, assuming your fuel is already winterized in the tank and the whole fuel system.

 

[Niner]

just because VW bought some tech rights to clean diesel technologies from MB doesn't make the Passat a Bluetec. MB owns the term bluetec and you'll only see it on MB engines.

That's like saying a Sprinter has a TDI engine in it.

Whatever, says it's licensed, good enough for me, or for quoting here. They got the technology, they paid for it, I got no problems with who designed it or sells it, or how it's marketed. The guts and design are bluetec, the labeling is just semantics.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BlueTec

Get back to us when you own a vehicle by VW that requires adblue, OK?

 

[tdiatlast]

Breaking in the HPFP, which if it fails, is more expensive than the engine, is the bigger concern. Modern manufacturing techniques make drivbiwires claimed break in procedure obsolete since they started honing the bores with lasers. Just drive it normally, let the HPFP break in with diesel fuel with high lubricity under 400 micron wear scar for the first few tanks, preferably with a pinch of biodiesel, like a quart per tank, or something around B2 and call it good, don't rev it much past 3000, there's no need, it stresses that pump to death when you run the fuel lines at 2000 bar pressure on the common rail. We just don't know yet how these HPFP's will fare compared to the 2009-2012 models in the non Blue tec motors, too early to tell. RPM's square the load on the cam exponentially. Low RPM's are better, just put some load on the motor somewhere between 2000 and 3000 rpm, and the rings will seat fine, save redline for the race track folks and their race cars.

IMHO, lots of opinion here, and speculation re: break-in and HPFP. Starting off by dismissing an experienced/respected member's advice is also a bit dangerous.

Niner's right that it's too early to know how the 5th/6th (?) gen HPFPs will fare, compared to the 2009-2011. Keep your revs down, protect the HPFP, perhaps clog your DPF. Rev it more, keep the exhaust plumbing (DPF) clean (maybe?) and risk shredding your HPFP. Low revs also might (?) be contributing to the frozen I/C pipes (on previous CR TDIs...yes, I know it has been re-engineered)

I don't totally disagree with Niner's statements, but they are far from being absolute...they are opinions.

 

[TomB]

I know MN has around 2-5% Bio in the summer blend, and whatever they put in #1, but we will probably use a Blend, as it's not going to get super cold anymore.

#1 ? Last I checked the US was #2 Diesel. I thought it was too expensive to produce #1 Diesel.

 

[TomB]

That's like saying a Sprinter has a TDI engine in it.

FYI, MB was licensing and using TDI's from VW in their vehicles in Europe at one time, so it could be true. I believe it was the 2.5L version.

 

[Diesel Ed]

Our local station sells #1, Blend and #2, or at least they used to. I haven't filled our Duramax Pickup up all winter.

Also, white bottle = Winter, Silver bottle = Summer? Not sure what the weather is like in AZ, but the average daily temp here is around 30 yet.

Also, lets keep this about our car, not whether the TDI is a Bluetec or not. Feel free to start your own thread on that.

 

[Niner]

IMHO, lots of opinion here, and speculation re: break-in and HPFP. Starting off by dismissing an experienced/respected member's advice is also a bit dangerous.

Niner's right that it's too early to know how the 5th/6th (?) gen HPFPs will fare, compared to the 2009-2011. Keep your revs down, protect the HPFP, perhaps clog your DPF. Rev it more, keep the exhaust plumbing (DPF) clean (maybe?) and risk shredding your HPFP. Low revs also might (?) be contributing to the frozen I/C pipes (on previous CR TDIs...yes, I know it has been re-engineered)

I don't totally disagree with Niner's statements, but they are far from being absolute...they are opinions.

The only things the rings need to seat is load. If you load the motor up, even at low rpms, you still accomplish the same thing. Full boost on the turbo, even at low rpms, does the same thing. No need to wind the rpms up to do so, in fact, the fueling decreases probably past 4000 rpm, perhaps 4200. Traffic lights and stop and go driving load the motor up. Getting on the on ramp and freeway loads the motor up, as does driving up and down anything with a grade. Sooner or later, it all gets done, and broken in, with only using 66% of it's rated redline capacity in rpms. A boost gauge would tell you wonders. So would VCDS logs for requested versus actual boost. I don't believe in operating a vehicle contrary to what the owners manual suggests for break in procedure, as it is written by engineers.

 

[TomB]

Also, lets keep this about our car, not whether the TDI is a Bluetec or not. Feel free to start your own thread on that.

Ok well keep it all about you and only you, yep... All these newbies coming on here and making demands of everyone else. Wow!

 

[Diesel Ed]

I might be a n00b on TDI Club, but am definitely not new to car forums. I'm not trying to start something. Just that their discussion wasn't at all pertaining to the thread. This thread isn't a "Is the 2012 TDI a Bluetec" thread, it's a "here's my new TDI thread". Posts of whether or not it's a Bluetec isn't going to help anyone else getting into a 2012 TDI learn anything, nor is it going to help my cause of sharing photos and my personal reaction with the rest of the people on this nice, well run forum.

I'm not familiar with the Moderator/Administrator/Staff structure around here, so I thought I'd give a gentle push to help keep the thread, as the OP, on track, without having to go whining to the staff that my thread is off-topic and make one of them do something.

 

[Niner]

Our local station sells #1, Blend and #2, or at least they used to. I haven't filled our Duramax Pickup up all winter.
Also, white bottle = Winter, Silver bottle = Summer? Not sure what the weather is like in AZ, but the average daily temp here is around 30 yet.
Also, lets keep this about our car, not whether the TDI is a Bluetec or not. Feel free to start your own thread on that.

As i said, if your fuel is blended, or winterized, all you need is power service silver, for the lubricity and cetane increase. Winterized fuel prevents your fuel from gelling or clogging up your fuel filter. If you have seasonal, fall fuel in your tank, and you get a cold snap, then you need the white bottle before the cold snap hits in your tank, and in your fuel line too, before shutting down, to prevent gelling. By the time winter gets here, most all fuel at high volume stations is treated /blended to prevent gelling. You run white bottle to occaisionally get the moisture out of your fuel system, maybe 3 or 4 x a year. You run white bottle the first few freezing cold snaps of fall or winter, when temps get below 10-15F and you have summer or fall fuel in your tank.
After that, you run silver the rest of the time, for the lubrication and the cetane boost for ease of starting. White bottle for a bad cold snap when you don't have blended fuel, or to get residual moisture out of your fuel system, silver bottle the rest of the time. Or at least I do.

 

[Diesel Ed]

Thanks for the info guys. I do appreciate your help.

 

[740GLE]

Whatever, says it's licensed, good enough for me, or for quoting here. They got the technology, they paid for it, I got no problems with who designed it or sells it, or how it's marketed. The guts and design are bluetec, the labeling is just semantics.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BlueTec

Get back to us when you own a vehicle by VW that requires adblue, OK?

Sorry to argue semantics, this is a rather technical board and generalities don't help misconceptions and FUD.

 

[TomB]

I might be a n00b on TDI Club, but am definitely not new to car forums. I'm not trying to start something. Just that their discussion wasn't at all pertaining to the thread. This thread isn't a "Is the 2012 TDI a Bluetec" thread, it's a "here's my new TDI thread". Posts of whether or not it's a Bluetec isn't going to help anyone else getting into a 2012 TDI learn anything, nor is it going to help my cause of sharing photos and my personal reaction with the rest of the people on this nice, well run forum.

I'm not familiar with the Moderator/Administrator/Staff structure around here, so I thought I'd give a gentle push to help keep the thread, as the OP, on track, without having to go whining to the staff that my thread is off-topic and make one of them do something.

Yes it did get off tangent, but it normally gets back soon enough, if you let it.

You jumped the gun....