New Fuel Filter Priming

ZippyNH

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Similarly power service is commonly used to prefill the filter since it's much more slick than diesel fuel (known many mechanics that do it this way).
 

740GLE

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No matter what you use, its gets flushed back to the tank and diluted within a min of idling.

You're using the easiest thing that will burn that you can fill up the filter.
 

The Cream Dolphin

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As @740GLE said, it will dilute immediately. Priming the new filter, and using purge are not necessarily the same thing. You can prime it with the perge but it will not be effective as a purge, just a prime. If your goal is to use the purge as a purge, run the engine out of a can of it, feed and return line going into the can. It will then run on pure purge, just make sure you stop before it runs air into it. There is a suggested course of action with the can that should tell you how long to hold it at certain revs too. When you finish, add what is left to the filter to prime it, finish the top up in there with diesel, power service, etc or prime with vcds. But run with purge as the only source to be properly effective. @AndyBees has a lovely way of setting it up, I literally just stuck my fuel lines into the stuff.
 

AndyBees

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When changing a fuel filter, yes, I just fill the new filter through the hole where the Thermostatic T goes (ALH, BEW, etc.).
I've never done a filter change on the Common Rail 2.0 engine.

The hanging IV has two hoses as you can see. The hose going out the filter at the bottom of the Jif Peanut Butter jar goes to the Injection Pump on an ALH engine. It also works on the BEW and BRM engines. The hose at the side is return fuel. You need the return fuel hose, otherwise, the fueling system will pull the container dry in a matter of seconds. All diesel fuel system pull more fuel up to the engine than it will use. All that fuel is returned to the tank.

I suppose such a device could be used with a Common Rail fuel system. As I may have stated previously, quick JB Weld is very compatible with diesel fuel and any of the typical additives.
 

740GLE

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IMO purge is more important with IDI and older pumps/injectors.

its snake oil today that's more a time suck/potential fail point, then benefit. But that's just my opinion.
 

Mass. Wine Guy

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Ok. So all the screws on top of the filter housing are totally stuck in there and won’t budge. Should I just try using some Liquid Wrench, etc.? I’ve read suggestions to replace them with 6-point hex bolts. Is that an exact size match for plug n play?
 

Mass. Wine Guy

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Will do. I need to get a long-ish T handle torx 20. At least I think it’s 20. 25 is too big.
 
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Nuje

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Maybe I'm misremembering, but I would've sworn that my Mk7 filter canister's top bolts were T25.
When reinstalling, remember that the torque spec is only like 5Nm - which is barely more than snug. I think you're discovering why the torque spec is so low (and that whoever did it before you did not follow said spec.)

Also, go diagonally in stages so it pulls that top down evenly.
 

740GLE

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a 6" 1/4 drive ratchet with 3 fingers should be all that's needed to undo those bolts.
 

The Cream Dolphin

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Three fingers? Can you please show an example? I don’t know about tools.
Tools? He is talking about how much whiskey to pour.

Kidding, this means if you have the ratchet in place with the bit in, placing pointer, middle, and ring finger towards the end of the handle and only pulling as much as those fingers can reasonably pull is all the force you need. Obviously you could pull harder if you gripped it hard, it is just a rough indication of how much to pull. The body's own torque wrench.
 

740GLE

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Three fingers? Can you please show an example? I don’t know about tools.
Just an indication the bolts shouldn't be torqued down much more than finger tight.
 

Mass. Wine Guy

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But aren’t these the same OEM tote bolts that are so soft that they strip so easily? My goal was to replace them with hex bolts.
 

Bradm

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Your overthinking this, just change it and tighten them down. A little past snug will do
 

ZippyNH

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But aren’t these the same OEM tote bolts that are so soft that they strip so easily? My goal was to replace them with hex bolts.
Don't always try to find a problem in search of a solution. Bolts were overtightened. Replacements will fix the problem.
Using "different, better" when they failed because of misuse is just going to give you a different and more $$$ failure point if they are miss tq'd again.
 

Mass. Wine Guy

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Don't always try to find a problem in search of a solution. Bolts were overtightened. Replacements will fix the problem.
Using "different, better" when they failed because of misuse is just going to give you a different and more $$$ failure point if they are miss tq'd again.
Good point. I’ll try them.
 
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