those studs look familiar, glad theyre getting some real use
I didn't get many photos of the rods because I was eager to install them.
New Cr140 build!
- Thread starter SmokeyEddyTDI
- Start date
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
That's a 3-hole gasket right? 1.14mm?
4 of the lifters were damaged so I'm replacing them before I put the cams on.
Turbo looks tiny now with nothing else back there with it.
p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
Good stuff! You’re right on with the 3-hole.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I just got 4 new lifters to replace the ones involved with the incident and the new ones don't actuate at all, is this normal?
I'm trying to squeeze between my fingers. I can actuate the other 12 with significant force but they move pretty uniformly.
Of the 4 damaged ones, three don't travel smoothly, or the full travel, and one doesn't move at all and even looks bent.
A little reassurance please
. I looked up how to test them and I don't have the equipment. I figured if they actuate smoothly they're good to go?
My understanding is that they have a return spring inside them, as well as by design using oil inside the the lifter, being forced through a hole at the top of the lifter where it connects to the rocker arm, to cushion the operation of the valve. This oil then gets replaced/returned via the high ambient oil pressure in the galley that the lifter is sitting in through the hole that's at the bottom of the cylindrical part of the lifter.
Should I force them to move carefully with something like a vice before installing them?
They have what smells like cutting/machining oil on them and plastic caps protecting the "holes".
I can include a photo but they look exactly like the old ones.
I'm trying to squeeze between my fingers. I can actuate the other 12 with significant force but they move pretty uniformly.
Of the 4 damaged ones, three don't travel smoothly, or the full travel, and one doesn't move at all and even looks bent.
A little reassurance please
. I looked up how to test them and I don't have the equipment. I figured if they actuate smoothly they're good to go?My understanding is that they have a return spring inside them, as well as by design using oil inside the the lifter, being forced through a hole at the top of the lifter where it connects to the rocker arm, to cushion the operation of the valve. This oil then gets replaced/returned via the high ambient oil pressure in the galley that the lifter is sitting in through the hole that's at the bottom of the cylindrical part of the lifter.
Should I force them to move carefully with something like a vice before installing them?
They have what smells like cutting/machining oil on them and plastic caps protecting the "holes".
I can include a photo but they look exactly like the old ones.
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paging the all knowing @TDIMeisterI just got 4 new lifters to replace the ones involved with the incident and the new ones don't actuate at all, is this normal?
I'm trying to squeeze between my fingers. I can actuate the other 12 with significant force but they move pretty uniformly.
Of the 4 damaged ones, three don't travel smoothly, or the full travel, and one doesn't move at all and even looks bent.
A little reassurance please
My understanding is that they have a return spring inside them, as well as by design using oil inside the the lifter, being forced through a hole, to cushion the operation of the valve. This oil then gets replaced/returned via the high ambient oil pressure in the galley that the lifter is sitting in.
Should I force them to move carefully with something like a vice before installing them?
They have what smells like cutting/machining oil on them and plastic caps protecting the "holes".
I can include a photo but they look exactly like the old ones.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I think I have to put them in and assume they work.
Thanks for trying!
p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
I was really hoping someone with more experience would chime in. I’m interested in the proper procedure as well.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I put it together and turned it over by hand at the crank about 5 or 6 times.
I ended up putting the injectors in multiple times because I kept dropping the nuts. One time 8 even forgot to put in the copper crush washers...
I found it interesting that the glow plugs don't use anything like a copper crush gasket.
I ended up putting the injectors in multiple times because I kept dropping the nuts. One time 8 even forgot to put in the copper crush washers...
I found it interesting that the glow plugs don't use anything like a copper crush gasket.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I'm about to do the finishing touches tomorrow and Tuesday and I'm feeling really really anxious. Especially about how I timed the cams.
When I turned it over I could hear compression/air coming through the turbo hot side... But, it was quite easy to turn over... I mean, I had to use a large 1/2" drive ratchet with a lot of effort but I recall my first VW being really really hard to crank by hand... I was 17 and not 34 though
The engine also has a thin film of assembly lube on it but not on the bores. I can't spin the oil pump with a drill on this engine so I also know it and the water pump are also spinning air. All the idlers and tensioners are new as well; so, maybe that all contributes to my anxiety over the easy turning over.
Here's a list of what I think still needs to be done:
• coolant lines
• lift pump
• battery tray and battery
• boost pipe
• fuel lines from filter to lift pump to high pressure pump
• downpipe
• ac compressor
• serp belt
• every sensor
• the charged air plumbing on both sides of the intercooler
• I have a temp sensor in an inline housing that I need to cut a coolant hose and install near the sensor wire
•it's possible I have to fabricate a hose from the heater core to the pipe on the block because the EGR cooler is not there anymore.
• bleed clutch using the new bleeder (I think I need to buy some brake fluid)
• fender dust covers
• passenger wheel
• hood and washer fluid jets
• prime fuel system with Vcds
• code the injectors using vcds
Any advice on starting a new engine would be appreciated!
When I turned it over I could hear compression/air coming through the turbo hot side... But, it was quite easy to turn over... I mean, I had to use a large 1/2" drive ratchet with a lot of effort but I recall my first VW being really really hard to crank by hand... I was 17 and not 34 though
The engine also has a thin film of assembly lube on it but not on the bores. I can't spin the oil pump with a drill on this engine so I also know it and the water pump are also spinning air. All the idlers and tensioners are new as well; so, maybe that all contributes to my anxiety over the easy turning over.
Here's a list of what I think still needs to be done:
• coolant lines
• lift pump
• battery tray and battery
• boost pipe
• fuel lines from filter to lift pump to high pressure pump
• downpipe
• ac compressor
• serp belt
• every sensor
• the charged air plumbing on both sides of the intercooler
• I have a temp sensor in an inline housing that I need to cut a coolant hose and install near the sensor wire
•it's possible I have to fabricate a hose from the heater core to the pipe on the block because the EGR cooler is not there anymore.
• bleed clutch using the new bleeder (I think I need to buy some brake fluid)
• fender dust covers
• passenger wheel
• hood and washer fluid jets
• prime fuel system with Vcds
• code the injectors using vcds
Any advice on starting a new engine would be appreciated!
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p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
FWIW when I did my CJAA timing somewhat recently I did a bunch of other stuff at the same time and had the car in full service position with both the intake and exhaust manifolds removed as well. I used a short 1/2” ratcheting breaker bar and felt like it turned over pretty easily. It would build a tiny bit of compression and release it as I turned and I could hear it hissing and spitting. Just made sure nothing was binding up/no hard stops and I did it smoothly for probably 6-8 rotations and watched the tensioner to feel good about it.
I did new thermostat, kerma silicone heater hoses, ac condenser, ac rcv, ac expansion valve, fluidampr w/billet lower timing cover, cp3, billet racepipe, full swirl flap delete, upgraded s3 intercooler, hardpipe kit, gtb2260 kit, pie-cut intake, turbo blanket and wrapped downpipe, full 2.5" stainless exhaust with new hangers, mann provent 200, analog egt+boost gauges, polarfis, vibra-technic mounts this go around. Broke the nipple off the coolant head flange at the last minute so I had to take some stuff back off and replace that too. I had already installed FK streetline coilovers + 2.5" frame notched, hd skid plate, MK5 R32 front brakes (technically 2008 3.2 4motion Passat), stainless lines, front and rear subframe deadset kits, hatch brace, dg sigma six and all the dg mk6 shifter bits, stainless line and a Sachs SRE clutch so far on this Golf.
My egr cooler fell off a while ago. Cleanest hose route IMO is to cut the one coming from the firewall and use a straight coupler (not 90 like some kits) to connect to the line coming off the coolant head flange. You shouldn't need any new hose if you have the originals.
Darkside advice for pre-oiling the top end when I asked about a head install was “if you pour oil all over the cams etc, then you can crank it all by hand to make sure nothing is binding. I would then drop the oil after a few miles to get rid of any crap”. The assembly lube should help too until pressure gets there.
To prime the turbo and oil lines before first start you can unplug both ends of the fuel rail and crank for 10-15 seconds 3 separate times (letting the starter cool off in between). You can crack the turbo oil return on the block and see a little oil come out to ensure everything is primed: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10178419-0001.pdf
Just holler if you need pics of harness routing or whatever.
Good luck!
I did new thermostat, kerma silicone heater hoses, ac condenser, ac rcv, ac expansion valve, fluidampr w/billet lower timing cover, cp3, billet racepipe, full swirl flap delete, upgraded s3 intercooler, hardpipe kit, gtb2260 kit, pie-cut intake, turbo blanket and wrapped downpipe, full 2.5" stainless exhaust with new hangers, mann provent 200, analog egt+boost gauges, polarfis, vibra-technic mounts this go around. Broke the nipple off the coolant head flange at the last minute so I had to take some stuff back off and replace that too. I had already installed FK streetline coilovers + 2.5" frame notched, hd skid plate, MK5 R32 front brakes (technically 2008 3.2 4motion Passat), stainless lines, front and rear subframe deadset kits, hatch brace, dg sigma six and all the dg mk6 shifter bits, stainless line and a Sachs SRE clutch so far on this Golf.
My egr cooler fell off a while ago. Cleanest hose route IMO is to cut the one coming from the firewall and use a straight coupler (not 90 like some kits) to connect to the line coming off the coolant head flange. You shouldn't need any new hose if you have the originals.
Darkside advice for pre-oiling the top end when I asked about a head install was “if you pour oil all over the cams etc, then you can crank it all by hand to make sure nothing is binding. I would then drop the oil after a few miles to get rid of any crap”. The assembly lube should help too until pressure gets there.
To prime the turbo and oil lines before first start you can unplug both ends of the fuel rail and crank for 10-15 seconds 3 separate times (letting the starter cool off in between). You can crack the turbo oil return on the block and see a little oil come out to ensure everything is primed: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10178419-0001.pdf
Just holler if you need pics of harness routing or whatever.
Good luck!
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
Yeah I definitely need pictures of the wiring of a working cbea. There's just too many bi-pole connectors that all can reach each other's sensors... There's about 4 I'm totally confused by.
p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
I’ve got my CJAA here, but know they’re pretty similar engines. Which are the 4 in question?
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I'll get back to you on which ones I'm after. I've taken some pics.
Thanks so much!
Thanks so much!
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I started the car today.
It idles kind of ... what seems like out of balance. It wobbles quite a bit. It also seems to be idling slightly slow...
The exhaust looks and smells normal...
The pedal response is somewhat poor and the odd behavior is less noticeable with increase in RPM.
The boost seems to be lacking even with just blipping the pedal it used to pump the needle up.
Is there any benefit to checking the vacuum? or would there have been a CEL/code if that was a problem?
My other thought is it's timing related. Should I check the timing marks?
Edit: another thought I had was maybe something to do with the injection quantity being off on 1 or more injectors. By sheer luck I put #2 and #3 back in the same places. At least, when I went to recode them in VCDS they were already coded with those characters. I watched the pressure values on VCDS and they all look to be the same within each other but I didn't log the stats.
Can anyone help me with recording the correct values to provide some useful info?
It idles kind of ... what seems like out of balance. It wobbles quite a bit. It also seems to be idling slightly slow...
The exhaust looks and smells normal...
The pedal response is somewhat poor and the odd behavior is less noticeable with increase in RPM.
The boost seems to be lacking even with just blipping the pedal it used to pump the needle up.
Is there any benefit to checking the vacuum? or would there have been a CEL/code if that was a problem?
My other thought is it's timing related. Should I check the timing marks?
Edit: another thought I had was maybe something to do with the injection quantity being off on 1 or more injectors. By sheer luck I put #2 and #3 back in the same places. At least, when I went to recode them in VCDS they were already coded with those characters. I watched the pressure values on VCDS and they all look to be the same within each other but I didn't log the stats.
Can anyone help me with recording the correct values to provide some useful info?
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03Golfer
Veteran Member
Are you running a tune? I had an issue where I had the VNT solenoid plugged into the wrong connector after deleting (that's what i get for just disconnecting everything willy nilly without marking it) and Malone had deleted the DTC for boost control solenoid circuit... my initial issues sound very similar to your current issue. They did update the tune after I brought this to their attention, re adding the DTC.
I re flashed the stock tune and the DTC flagged, which helped determine the cause of my issues. Can also look at a wiring diagram to confirm colors are correct.
I re flashed the stock tune and the DTC flagged, which helped determine the cause of my issues. Can also look at a wiring diagram to confirm colors are correct.
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
Yes, I am. Malone like you. I was going to go there again anyways, as I have a much different set up now. The sachs clutch is the real reason.
I think you're dead right on the connector. I used it because it was the first 3 pin I found but because it has the heat shielding on the wire leading to it, it makes me think it's something from the EGR cooler or the DPF. I'm a bit embarrassed to ask, what is the DTC?
Does this mean that entire loom is no longer needed? I also didn't connect the little sensor that the EGR cooler connected an exhaust pressure line to. Maybe I need that for an ambient reading? It didn't trip a code though. I'm going to look for a different plug that fits the vnt controller that's on the turbo, because that's my understanding from your message. Thank you! I really hope that's it.
03Golfer
Veteran Member
I can take some pictures of the connectors and wire colors on my CBEA. It was the 2 pin connector on the VNT solenoid that's on the firewall, in my case. I can confirm the 6 pin DID set a circuit fault, so I suspect that's not your issue. The solenoid wiring would be mixed up with the crankcase breather heater.
I have no egr cooler, no DPF pressure sensors etc, and only the one EGT sensor, no issues just leaving them all disconnected.
Have you tried driving it? In my case it became extra obvious there was an issue because it made absolutely no power (limp mode) despite there being no DTCs.
DTC was P0045 boost control valve circuit, set along with a million other faults only once flashed to stock (other faults due to deletes). No need to run vehicle (I didn't want to due to 2200 bar rail sensor and 4 bar map)
The 6 pin if swapped will set P00AF after running for a while, and glow plug light will flash.
I have no egr cooler, no DPF pressure sensors etc, and only the one EGT sensor, no issues just leaving them all disconnected.
Have you tried driving it? In my case it became extra obvious there was an issue because it made absolutely no power (limp mode) despite there being no DTCs.
DTC was P0045 boost control valve circuit, set along with a million other faults only once flashed to stock (other faults due to deletes). No need to run vehicle (I didn't want to due to 2200 bar rail sensor and 4 bar map)
The 6 pin if swapped will set P00AF after running for a while, and glow plug light will flash.
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
You know what, I noticed the crank case breather heater was unusually hot when I was done using vcds! I think that's it!
No, I have not tried driving the car. It idles rough enough that I knew I needed to track down what's going on.
I'm going to measure block 051 and see what the timing looks like and I'm going to swap those connectors the correct way around. I just woke up and between you and p.e.fletcher I think we've got this figured out. Thanks everyone I'll post later today how it goes. I'll take a video if all is well so I can post some "first running minutes". I'm excited to sooty up those shiny piston faces.
In other news I've had a battle bleeding the clutch. I tried the traditional way at first and that kind of worked if you pumped the pedal. Air in the line for sure. I bought a pressure bleeder and 1L of brake fluid. I pushed 5psi into the whole thing and at first I gently actuated the pedal; I could see a chunk of air going into my catch bottle from the open bleeder on the transmission.
This continued for probably and hour until I got kind of (read very) frustrated and rapidly/ forcefully pumped the clutch pedal about 5 or 6 times. I then saw what I can perfectly describe as champagne coming through the bleeder hose and into the bottle so, my point here is: anger solves all problems and brute force works every time. So the pedal was hard when I left yesterday evening and I'll find out if it's still good in about 3 hours.
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03Golfer
Veteran Member
Careful though, it IS a heater. If your VNT solenoid was hot, I'd think maybe they were mixed up.
Wires at the solenoid should be yellow with black tracer pin 1, brown with yellow tracer pin 2.
I don't have the heater hooked up because the CR170 intake pipe didn't have provisions for one, but I'm holding the heater wiring in my hand in the photo
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
Perfect! Thanks so much.Careful though, it IS a heater. If your VNT solenoid was hot, I'd think maybe they were mixed up.
Wires at the solenoid should be yellow with black tracer pin 1, brown with yellow tracer pin 2.
I don't have the heater hooked up because the CR170 intake pipe didn't have provisions for one, but I'm holding the heater wiring in my hand in the photo
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I got that connector figured out. It doesn't actually seem to be the source of my problem...
I measured block 013, the injection deviation quantity, and two of them are wildly off
#1: 1.04
#2: 1.15
#3: -0.07
#4: 0.15
I'm going to try and find 4 injectors.
Are they really $2000?
Any other useful blocks to measure for good data? My course of action at the moment is to replace these injectors. They're 300,000km old
. I'm working the next 8 days straight so I'm fine with ordering injectors if they come in 2 weeks max.
After consulting my CFO (the old lady) I purchased 4 new injectors. Should have them in on Saturday.
I measured block 013, the injection deviation quantity, and two of them are wildly off
#1: 1.04
#2: 1.15
#3: -0.07
#4: 0.15
I'm going to try and find 4 injectors.
Are they really $2000?
Any other useful blocks to measure for good data? My course of action at the moment is to replace these injectors. They're 300,000km old
. I'm working the next 8 days straight so I'm fine with ordering injectors if they come in 2 weeks max.After consulting my CFO (the old lady) I purchased 4 new injectors. Should have them in on Saturday.
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
With the pin inserted in the cam gear for the exhaust valves, this looks correct on the intake cam right? It's equidistant on both sides.
Something interesting I noticed when I pulled the injectors is that cylinder #1 never fired. There was only clean diesel on the end of it.
I pulled the glow plug to try and learn more and it was extremely clean. The other injectors were mildly blackened. I found this quite shocking but given the incredible deviation numbers I saw two of the injectors must be essentially ruined. Still, odd no that one of the cylinders never burnt the diesel present... I'm really concerned over that. I sort of felt a bit of resolve thinking that the cams were out of time explaining the misfire.
Could the misfire be attributed simply to old injectors? I mean, 300k is a lot but they showed no issues before the rod throw.
If I put the crank position sensor on wrong/off, would I get a code right away? I didn't use the tool, I lined up the holes with bolts and the sensor I bought had a retaining clip on it that you could keep on until it was installed and then remove the orange locking tab. I'm quite confident I put it on correctly but it's the other thing on my mind now.
Would anyone recommend I clean the electrical connectors with anything? I've read a bit that a dirty connection there can cause timing issues but I think that might be for less computer controlled engines.
Lastly, I'm thinking I might want to consider running the car straight out of a can of diesel purge for the sake of the pump, rail and lines for the first few minutes. What do you think?
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I know this thread seems to have died but I don't know what to do.
I changed the injectors to new ones and started it but it still isn't firing on cylinder #1.
I have no idea what to look at next.
I'm going to do a compression test
I changed the injectors to new ones and started it but it still isn't firing on cylinder #1.
I have no idea what to look at next.
I'm going to do a compression test
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I got 345-350 psi across the board on the compression test.
I replaced the not very old fuel filter with a new one from the stealership and I cleaned out the housing; refilling it with liqui moly diesel purge.
I replaced the vacuum line from the little n95 thing on the firewall to the turbo and the fuel line from the filter housing to the HPFP.
I did the fuel prime sequence 5 times for both the pump in the tank and the auxiliary pump.
The car starts right away. I can't tell if I'm imagining things, but it sounds like it fires on all 4 cylinders at first and then after starting, at idle, it's stumbling on just 3. An increase in engine RPM doesn't resolve the misfire at all. This is the same misfire I was experiencing after I rebuilt the bottom end the first time and tried to start it on the 300k old injectors.
I changed the lifters on the cylinder that had the rod event, could there be a problem with the other 12 lifters? they moved uniformly and more easily than the new ones.
These are brand new injectors, coded using VCDS. The same issue persists...
Is injection quantity something that would need to be manually adjusted?
This new bottom end has custom made rods that I thought, being balanced between each other to 0.1 grams, wouldn't cause issue. Is is possible that things like injection quantity needs to be adjusted?
The readings I'm getting on blocks 71 through 74 are as follows:
injection quantity deviation
#1 2.68
#2 -2.89
#3 -0.19
#4 0.33
rail pressure fluctuates a lot at idle from 260 - 400 bar...
I checked the wiring to the connector on injector #1 and it looks ok. I didn't have the picks at the time to put the pins out but I guess that's my next step. User p.fletcher suggested I check the continuity of that wire at the ECU plug.
I cut off the shelf in front of the driver's right knee that covers some relays and I installed an oil pressure gauge there! will post pics later when I get the light wired.
Are there blocks on VCDS I can measure to investigate this misfire and then post my findings? Anyone have any insight? Are there blocks to measure individual injectors? The car isn't really drivable the way it is and im really perplexed at the smooth idle immediately after starting my time is drawing to a close on getting the car back on the road... I might have a lot of stuff for sale soon.
I replaced the not very old fuel filter with a new one from the stealership and I cleaned out the housing; refilling it with liqui moly diesel purge.
I replaced the vacuum line from the little n95 thing on the firewall to the turbo and the fuel line from the filter housing to the HPFP.
I did the fuel prime sequence 5 times for both the pump in the tank and the auxiliary pump.
The car starts right away. I can't tell if I'm imagining things, but it sounds like it fires on all 4 cylinders at first and then after starting, at idle, it's stumbling on just 3. An increase in engine RPM doesn't resolve the misfire at all. This is the same misfire I was experiencing after I rebuilt the bottom end the first time and tried to start it on the 300k old injectors.
I changed the lifters on the cylinder that had the rod event, could there be a problem with the other 12 lifters? they moved uniformly and more easily than the new ones.
These are brand new injectors, coded using VCDS. The same issue persists...
Is injection quantity something that would need to be manually adjusted?
This new bottom end has custom made rods that I thought, being balanced between each other to 0.1 grams, wouldn't cause issue. Is is possible that things like injection quantity needs to be adjusted?
The readings I'm getting on blocks 71 through 74 are as follows:
injection quantity deviation
#1 2.68
#2 -2.89
#3 -0.19
#4 0.33
rail pressure fluctuates a lot at idle from 260 - 400 bar...
I checked the wiring to the connector on injector #1 and it looks ok. I didn't have the picks at the time to put the pins out but I guess that's my next step. User p.fletcher suggested I check the continuity of that wire at the ECU plug.
I cut off the shelf in front of the driver's right knee that covers some relays and I installed an oil pressure gauge there! will post pics later when I get the light wired.
Are there blocks on VCDS I can measure to investigate this misfire and then post my findings? Anyone have any insight? Are there blocks to measure individual injectors? The car isn't really drivable the way it is and im really perplexed at the smooth idle immediately after starting my time is drawing to a close on getting the car back on the road... I might have a lot of stuff for sale soon.
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adjat84th
Veteran Member
Brand new injectors have that much deviation?!
Those are not good numbers on #1 & #2 and would cause terrible running IMO
A way to test them is to grab 4 syringes, and run some clear line (or vacuum hose) from the injector returns to the syringes. Cut the hoses the exact same length, try to hang the syringes from the hood, and start the car and see how much fuel is returning from each injector after a minute or two of idling. 1 & 2 will likely be way off.
There should be a certain spec in the erWin manual, but I don't have that one for the CJAA.
Did you code the injectors in? I don't think that would cause this much deviation, but just a question.
Those are not good numbers on #1 & #2 and would cause terrible running IMO
A way to test them is to grab 4 syringes, and run some clear line (or vacuum hose) from the injector returns to the syringes. Cut the hoses the exact same length, try to hang the syringes from the hood, and start the car and see how much fuel is returning from each injector after a minute or two of idling. 1 & 2 will likely be way off.
There should be a certain spec in the erWin manual, but I don't have that one for the CJAA.
Did you code the injectors in? I don't think that would cause this much deviation, but just a question.
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SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
Yes they are coded. Something else must be going on right? I can't think of what I've done wrong... I'm really lost
Are you saying these new injectors could be faulty?
It's hard for me to think that because I had the same running condition with the old injectors as I do now.
Could I have coded them all backwards?
Cylinder #1 is nearest the timing belt right? #4 next to the flywheel.
adjat84th
Veteran Member
Correct on cylinder placement.
The injector coding, if done incorrectly, would not have that large of a deviation. Seen people replace all injectors with no coding whatsoever and ran "ok".
Was that IQ deviation the same on the old injectors? Same cylinders?
The injector coding, if done incorrectly, would not have that large of a deviation. Seen people replace all injectors with no coding whatsoever and ran "ok".
Was that IQ deviation the same on the old injectors? Same cylinders?
03Golfer
Veteran Member
With the DTC issue I had with Malone it would still be worth flashing back to stock to see what faults you get. If you have an injector circuit fault it would be nice to know...
No need to de pin to check the circuit. A back probe and scoping the injector would likely be the most comprehensive check, but checking with a multimeter is a good first step.
No need to de pin to check the circuit. A back probe and scoping the injector would likely be the most comprehensive check, but checking with a multimeter is a good first step.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
More or less the same deviation numbers yes. Same cylinder misfiring.
SmokeyEddyTDI
Well-known member
I did the n276 reset via long adaptation and it did go through. I saw the value save but it didn't change the misfire condition.
It sounds like all 4 fire at first and then immediately #1 stops firing.
I ran the fuel pumps 6 times for 30 seconds on pure diesel purge.
Could the HPFP have decided to screw up at this coincidental moment? It is exactly 300,000km old. I've never noticed shavings during fuel filter changes and I have access to allegedly very clean diesel. I've never had any misfire DTC before the rod throw event. I'm really puzzled...
Thankfully I might be able to meet up with a member this week, Thank you 03Golfer!
I'm getting 350 psi exactly on all 4 cylinders via the glowplug hole which sounds alarmingly low to me. Could changing from 2-hole to a 1-hole remedy this a bit?
It sounds like all 4 fire at first and then immediately #1 stops firing.
I ran the fuel pumps 6 times for 30 seconds on pure diesel purge.
Could the HPFP have decided to screw up at this coincidental moment? It is exactly 300,000km old. I've never noticed shavings during fuel filter changes and I have access to allegedly very clean diesel. I've never had any misfire DTC before the rod throw event. I'm really puzzled...
Thankfully I might be able to meet up with a member this week, Thank you 03Golfer!
I'm getting 350 psi exactly on all 4 cylinders via the glowplug hole which sounds alarmingly low to me. Could changing from 2-hole to a 1-hole remedy this a bit?
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