New Cr140 build!

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I'm going to plug the turbo outlet to the EGR cooler with this: (it's a 1 inch copper pipe cap - I suspect the fitment is going to be extremely tight so I'll see if this actually works in the end)

That line and sensor I was asking about leads to a pressure sensor that has to do with the DPF and the EGR. So I think since I've deleted those with the Malone tune those will be fine to just be left open/blank I'm pressure sure...
I somehow didn't get the right size elbow for looping the coolant lines.

I'm still not certain what that sensor that is actually in the EGR cooler is for. I'm wondering if I'll need to still plug the sensor in to the wiring harness and just let it sit somewhere.

I got this today from the stealership for only $10. Took the coolant temperature sensor out of the CBEA thermostat housing and put it in!

 

[MrCypherr]

Can anyone answer if I loop these two lines together with a 90 degree elbow bad things will happen?

Anyone know off hand what this sensor is for seen here on the EGR cooler? Also pictured is where the little pipe joins the egr from the turbo. Can I delete this entire thing? Do I therefore need to block off that pipe from the turbo with like an expanding oil bung? Like one of these?



Lastly, this threaded fitting connects to a tiny sensor at the top of the cam cover at the back with a hardline (for the heat I'm guessing) that leads to a soft line. Can I leave it open to the air if I delete the entire cooler?

Thanks all.

Those are just coolant lines. You can just loop them with whatever works for you. I believe they just goto the heatercore. or one of them does.

Thats the EGR Cooler temp sensor. Not important if you're already deleted/tuned.

That hardline is a pressure sensor.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Those are just coolant lines. You can just loop them with whatever works for you. I believe they just goto the heatercore. or one of them does.

Thats the EGR Cooler temp sensor. Not important if you're already deleted/tuned.

That hardline is a pressure sensor.

thank you SOOOOO much, thank you!

 

[Nuje]

Can anyone answer if I loop these two lines together with a 90 degree elbow bad things will happen?

I did exactly that (¾" x 90° elbow) and having just run 140km at avg 110kph at 89-92°C the whole way, I can state that bad things did not happen.

 

[Nuje]

I'm going to plug the turbo outlet to the EGR cooler with this: (it's a 1 inch copper pipe cap - I suspect the fitment is going to be extremely tight so I'll see if this actually works in the end)

I definitely want to hear how you make out with that copper plug for the turbo outlet to the EGR; I had the EGR cooler fully off but then couldn't find anything to plug that up, so put it back on so I could close up that outlet.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I definitely want to hear how you make out with that copper plug for the turbo outlet to the EGR; I had the EGR cooler fully off but then couldn't find anything to plug that up, so put it back on so I could close up that outlet.

heck yeah! I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to take the the collar completely off the turbo so I can "gently" press it into place.
regarding longevity and just the general stupidity of this: I think it will be ok because it's on the "vacuum" side of the turbo and even that negative pressure should only be -1psi at most I would hope (unless the intake gets very clogged). so if I use at least 2psi of force to jam it into place I am very confident it won't get sucked into the turbine.

 

[p.e.fletcher]

heck yeah! I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to take the the collar completely off the turbo so I can "gently" press it into place.
regarding longevity and just the general stupidity of this: I think it will be ok because it's on the "vacuum" side of the turbo and even that negative pressure should only be -1psi at most I would hope (unless the intake gets very clogged). so if I use at least 2psi of force to jam it into place I am very confident it won't get sucked into the turbine.

I ran a silicone cap and worm clamp there for over a year before I went to a bigger turbo. Darkside includes it one of their kits. No issues to speak of.

 

[Dalon]

I ran a silicone cap and worm clamp there for over a year before I went to a bigger turbo. Darkside includes it one of their kits. No issues to speak of.

I did the same. I will mention, it sucks getting the worm gear situated in there to where you can tighten it appropriately with enough clamping force but its doable.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I ran a silicone cap and worm clamp there for over a year before I went to a bigger turbo. Darkside includes it one of their kits. No issues to speak of.

Which turbo did you go with if you don't mind me asking!
The cap and clamp most definitely is the easiest solution!

 

[p.e.fletcher]

Which turbo did you go with if you don't mind me asking!
The cap and clamp most definitely is the easiest solution!

I went straight to a GTB2260VK kit from Darkside in this Golf and I am still slowly working on it (lots of other supporting mods to build it up though):

Darkside GTB Turbo Kit for 2.0 16v TDI Common Rail Engines (2008-2010)

This fits the 2.0 TDi 16v CR140 & CR170 Common Rail Engines with the ROUND Exhaust Ports, Here at Darkside Developments we only own and work with TDIs, so you can be assured that you are dealing with experts who have an in depth knowledge and understanding of all things VW Diesel.

www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk

I have a 2013 Passat with the same setup. That car went to something similar to a CR170 (but for oval port) after it blew the stock turbo. I got the bug after that and it was all over for me . Wanted more so sold that turbo to a forum member and went bigger. Bit of low-end lag with the 2260s but it’s worth it - pays off over 2600rpm!

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I jammed it in there with a framing c-clamp after a LOT of sanding. I sanded probably 0.5-0.8 mm of material from the inside of the race.

I think a turbo upgrade is currently out of the budget unfortunately but I'm pretty happy with what I've got.
The turbo I have is a Rotomaster k1430104n.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Here are the carnage photos, finally. Do you guys think this is recoverable? the block and piston combination I'm using call for a 3-hole head gasket.

this ring was left in the cylinder seemingly perfectly in place by itself. Pretty cool to see the entire piston head was turned into mulch except for maybe... 20 grams of larger chunks. I thought I was going to find maybe 4-5 pieces ... not a crazy mash of material in the oil pan and sucked into the oil pump - which is a huge bummer - I know they're valuable.

Once I've got this head sorted I'll be putting it together.

Do you guys think swapping to the CKRA intake manifold that doesn't have the flaps at all would be worth the investment? ($300 at least) It's tough to justify but im in the perfect position to do it...
Can I merely remove the flaps and plug the hole that the shaft travels through with something like a finishing nail or maybe ask my TIG welding friend to plug it? I can't think of why not

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I just recycled the broken block, oil pump and rods & pistons.
The crank looks unscathed so I'm going to take it to be measured and polished and I'll either hang onto it incase mine breaks or I'll sell it for the machining cost.
I've got the new bottom end completely together now with ARP fasteners. I'd never used liquid gasket maker before so that was fun to learn to use well. my oil pump conversion looks to be suitable. I was a bit worried about the baffle and the oil pan being from the different oil pump design but it seemed to be fine.

I can only assume that the oil level will be correct for the pick-up tube without being able to see it and measure it. I guess I could have measured how far it protruded.

I'm taking the head to be resurfaced and to check the valve guides on the cylinder in question. I'll post pics when I've got it back. won't be for at least a week.

In the meantime I think I'll modify my intake to match a CKRA intake as best I can (remove the flaps and plug the hole the shaft goes through)

 

[p.e.fletcher]

I just recycled the broken block, oil pump and rods & pistons.
The crank looks unscathed so I'm going to take it to be measured and polished and I'll either hang onto it incase mine breaks or I'll sell it for the machining cost.
I've got the new bottom end completely together now with ARP fasteners. I'd never used liquid gasket maker before so that was fun to learn to use well. my oil pump conversion looks to be suitable. I was a bit worried about the baffle and the oil pan being from the different oil pump design but it seemed to be fine.

I can only assume that the oil level will be correct for the pick-up tube without being able to see it and measure it. I guess I could have measured how far it protruded.

I'm taking the head to be resurfaced and to check the valve guides on the cylinder in question. I'll post pics when I've got it back. won't be for at least a week.

In the meantime I think I'll modify my intake to match a CKRA intake as best I can (remove the flaps and plug the hole the shaft goes through)

Dang that’s some carnage! Yeah, you can remove the flaps and motor and plug the hole with a bolt and some loctite or similar. You have to tap into plastic so welding isn’t really an option.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I used a dremel and cut off wheel to get the tabs off the swirl/flapper shaft. I re-inserted the plug at the motor end because I think it's the best I can do for now.

I thoroughly cleaned the tabs and the plenum. I coated the whole thing in this black gasket maker and pressed them back into place. I waited for it to tack up slightly before I wiped the excess and before I pressed the new gasket in. My thinking with this is that the gasket maker will mate the tabs to the gasket. I did this for all the tabs. I know you can buy a kit of 3d printed hole-less tabs but it seemed just as easy to seal these back in with some trustworthy "goo" sealing the hole. Also, if the positive pressure does dislodge my gasket-maker made hole plugs, they don't actually lead to anywhere that isn't managed by the gasket; it's more so there isn't a hard edge leading to the intake runners if you were the leave the tabs out.

I thought about it for quite a while about whether or not they could come loose and there is no way. The cylinder head holds them against the plenum, and they slide into a tongue and groove style seat so they have no lateral freedom.

After making this post with the first 3 photos I filled in the gaps with a little more gasket maker since I know I don't need to put it back together for over a week it has plenty of time to cure through.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Injectors are being cleaned and balanced. I got 4 new exhaust valves and 2 intake valves.
The 4 involved with the "incident" were indeed bent (just like the glow plug).
The other two exhaust valves had run-out. I'm also changing all the valve guides and stem seals. I'm looking forward to posting pics of the resurfaced head when I get it back.
Getting close to putting it together... I think the cylinder head is still 1-week out unfortunately though.

I forgot to check which injector was coded for which cylinder #... Is there a way I can check? Does it matter? Can I "reset" the injectors easily when I finally power up the car for the first time?

 

[adjat84th]

Injectors are being cleaned and balanced. I got 4 new exhaust valves and 2 intake valves.
The 4 involved with the "incident" were indeed bent (just like the glow plug).
The other two exhaust valves had run-out. I'm also changing all the valve guides and stem seals. I'm looking forward to posting pics of the resurfaced head when I get it back.
Getting close to putting it together... I think the cylinder head is still 1-week out unfortunately though.

I forgot to check which injector was coded for which cylinder #... Is there a way I can check? Does it matter? Can I "reset" the injectors easily when I finally power up the car for the first time?

If I recall VCDS is able to provide the stored codes already in the ECU, so you should be able to put them back in order. If not, it's no big deal to just make VCDS match the order that you installed them.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

If I recall VCDS stores the codes, so you should be able to put them back in order. If not, it's no big deal to just make VCDS match the order that you installed them.

My Ross-Tech cable arrived today.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I gasket-matched the manifold of the turbo today. I was surprised how much smaller one of the runners was compared to the other 3... It was off by over 1mm for at least 45 degrees of the opening. I used a carbide bit and a dremel to smooth it out. I removed more material than I thought I would and I still could probably go even further...

Should I smooth it out even more?
Should I lightly sand the mating face a little more to see the gasket lines?

(that black and white crap is something that fell on the turbo and cooked on. I think it was duct tape or gorilla tape)

While I had the tool out I also smoothed out the ridge that is present between the plenum and the intake pipe that mates to it.

As I'm giving updates, I also used a turkey baster-esque device to force a really thin oil into the turbo until it came out the drain tube clean.
Once I get the head back I'll assemble it and put it on the block, which is on an engine stand, and put the timing belt on.
Then I'll lift it with a crane, at which point I can put the clutch pack back on (the engine stand is currently in the way).
Finally, I'll drop it back through the hood hole and mate the transmission to it using a floor jack as an aid. Then I put the axles back on (I disconnected everything but the brake fluid line for the clutch release) and the mounts: passenger, dog bone, the one under the battery...
Then I put everything back together right?
Or should I do anything first in case I have to go back a step?
Any advice at this stage would be incredibly appreciated.
I know I have to prime the pump using VCDS. I'll also have to recode the injectors because they'll likely be mixed up.
Also, I'm a little worried about how to put the two camshafts back together with that spring-loaded gear that has something to do with backlash...
Will it become obvious when I lay them down in the head and try and lock them with the locking pin in the one with a gear and a flat edge to lock the other one at the other end of the head?

 

[p.e.fletcher]

I gasket-matched the manifold of the turbo today. I was surprised how much smaller one of the runners was compared to the other 3... It was off by over 1mm for at least 45 degrees of the opening. I used a carbide bit and a dremel to smooth it out. I removed more material than I thought I would and I still could probably go even further...

Should I smooth it out even more?
Should I lightly sand the mating face a little more to see the gasket lines?

(that black and white crap is something that fell on the turbo and cooked on. I think it was duct tape or gorilla tape)

While I had the tool out I also smoothed out the ridge that is present between the plenum and the intake pipe that mates to it.

As I'm giving updates, I also used a turkey baster-esque device to force a really thin oil into the turbo until it came out the drain tube clean.
Once I get the head back I'll assemble it and put it on the block, which is on an engine stand, and put the timing belt on.
Then I'll lift it with a crane, at which point I can put the clutch pack back on (the engine stand is currently in the way).
Finally, I'll drop it back through the hood hole and mate the transmission to it using a floor jack as an aid. Then I put the axles back on (I disconnected everything but the brake fluid line for the clutch release) and the mounts: passenger, dog bone, the one under the battery...
Then I put everything back together right?
Or should I do anything first in case I have to go back a step?
Any advice at this stage would be incredibly appreciated.
I know I have to prime the pump using VCDS. I'll also have to recode the injectors because they'll likely be mixed up.
Also, I'm a little worried about how to put the two camshafts back together with that spring-loaded gear that has something to do with backlash...
Will it become obvious when I lay them down in the head and try and lock them with the locking pin in the one with a gear and a flat edge to lock the other one at the other end of the head?

Nice progress man!

That’s what I have been told for the cams. There is a crazy expensive tool that locks them into the girdle and you install them at same time, but I found a place that rents it for a reasonable amount. Short of that, I have been told that you can use the locking pin on the exhaust cam and you align the slot in the intake cam to be exactly flush against the head. You’ll also need something like LQM6177 / Curil T2 to seal the girdle.

COMMON RAIL CAMSHAFT TIMING TOOL RENTAL

Rent the tools to align and install the camshafts in common rail motors. The included tools are equivalent to VAG T40094, T40095 and T40096. The linked video is not a how to but gives a general overview of how the tools are used. Send me a message for the terms and availability before...

metalmanparts.com

For priming the turbo oil, it works really well to crack the oil return on the block, unplug both ends of fuel rail, and have someone crank the key until you see oil coming out of return then button it back up.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Nice progress man!

That’s what I have been told for the cams. There is a crazy expensive tool that locks them into the girdle and you install them at same time, but I found a place that rents it for a reasonable amount. Short of that, I have been told that you can use the locking pin on the exhaust cam and you align the slot in the intake cam to be exactly flush against the head. You’ll also need something like LQM6177 / Curil T2 to seal the girdle.

COMMON RAIL CAMSHAFT TIMING TOOL RENTAL

Rent the tools to align and install the camshafts in common rail motors. The included tools are equivalent to VAG T40094, T40095 and T40096. The linked video is not a how to but gives a general overview of how the tools are used. Send me a message for the terms and availability before...

metalmanparts.com

For priming the turbo oil, it works really well to crack the oil return on the block, unplug both ends of fuel rail, and have someone crank the key until you see oil coming out of return then button it back up.

I'll use the same black stuff I have yeah?
I was thinking that I would lock the intake cam first, against the deck of the head, with something like a piece of 1/4' flat bar. and with it firmly locked down with what ever I find/come up with, I can then through trial and error/brute force land the exhaust cam and check it with the timing tool?
I'm surprised the teeth themselves aren't marked because then couldn't you line them up together and then press them into place?

(I removed a lot more material from the manifold today )

 

[p.e.fletcher]

Yeah that Victor Reinz should do the trick.

That sounds like a plan if you don’t want to rent the tool. Agree it would be nice if the teeth were marked but just a matter of getting them both in happy place.

Here is a helpful youtube video and thread from member @travis45 regarding cams in a CR TDI.

Installing camshafts on CR TDI

A little video of my cam install. Go easy on me, I'm a rookie. https://youtu.be/5WpD85s4fDY

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Yeah that Victor Reinz should do the trick.

That sounds like a plan if you don’t want to rent the tool. Agree it would be nice if the teeth were marked but just a matter of getting them both in happy place.

Here is a helpful youtube video and thread from member @travis45 regarding cams in a CR TDI.

Installing camshafts on CR TDI

A little video of my cam install. Go easy on me, I'm a rookie. https://youtu.be/5WpD85s4fDY

forums.tdiclub.com

That video is fantastic!!! Thank you so much! What a great demo. I'm going to use framing clamps to lock a flat bar on the intake side and through probably a few tries I'll slip the exhaust cam into place hopefully not needing to do it too many times to get it in that happy place as you say!

Thanks guys!

Still need to sand but I'm happy with how much material I removed.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Still need to sand but that's the diameter I am going with.
(anyone notice the tin foil covering the inlets Lol!)

 

[p.e.fletcher]

Looks like a ton of pitting on the lobes at 3:56

Agreed. Those are Colt cams he got through MecEvo (just the supplier he went with and I have gotten things from Phil in the past he is a helpful guy) and ended up causing him some serious grief. I just wanted to show the alignment process without the tool and remembered that thread and video. IIRC in the end the pistons needed relief cuts that Travis wasn’t informed about up front.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Agreed. Those are Colt cams he got through MecEvo (just the supplier he went with and I have gotten things from Phil in the past he is a helpful guy) and ended up causing him some serious grief. I just wanted to show the alignment process without the tool and remembered that thread and video. IIRC in the end the pistons needed relief cuts that Travis wasn’t informed about up front.

Oh boy... relief cuts...
I just looked at my VW cams and they don't look like that at all. They're mirror smooth.
btw i was expecting tons of criticism of my port work... this is the internet after all or is there no judgment until i say hey look they're smooth! then we can say "no it's not."?

 

[lemoncurd]

That video is fantastic!!! Thank you so much! What a great demo. I'm going to use framing clamps to lock a flat bar on the intake side and through probably a few tries I'll slip the exhaust cam into place hopefully not needing to do it too many times to get it in that happy place as you say!

Thanks guys!

Still need to sand but I'm happy with how much material I removed.

i wonder if my cast malone stage 4 manifold for the GTB turbo could benefit from this........ GF might not be too happy about me yanking the turbo off AGAIN hahaha

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Do your best to mitigate the spread of the iron fillings. They're treacherous. I did the work inside a garbage bag and that still didn't catch everything.

I went back and forth twice, like going beyond where I think it should be by 1 tooth and looking at the result and i'm very confident that I have it correct.
To my surprise, with firm pressure, you can make the cams seat together and stay in place. The zip ties are absolutely necessary but I was dramatically overestimating how much force it took to turn that spring loaded gear into place.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

Just skimmed. a total of 0.003 thou removed.

 

[SmokeyEddyTDI]

I didn't get many photos of the rods because I was eager to install them. Here you can see my alh oil pump conversion. I tapped the block and you can see the bolt under the oil drain baffle. I felt really nervous doing this but I'm pretty sure it's going to work fine.