New clutch upgrade option!
- Thread starter Timma100
- Start date
adjat84th
Veteran Member
I saw this video as well and had me curious if it could be mated to a 02Q DMF. Would be really interested in how it drives. The 750Nm/550ft-lb torque rating is more than enough for even the more serious TDI builds. I currently have the Sachs SRE kit, and the sintered disc is just rough to get along with but was needed for my planned output.
Pricing (without Flywheel) looks very competitive considering the torque rating. $999 shipped from AUS to US.
Pricing (without Flywheel) looks very competitive considering the torque rating. $999 shipped from AUS to US.
The torque rating for the base clutch is perfect for 99% of TDI builds. Benefits of a twin disk lol.. If I start blowing through the stock clutch with a GT1756, this is the path forward for sure. Their price "with" flywheel is a little steep, which makes sense as they don't manufacture them so they're just reselling/marking up. I'd purchase my own Sachs DMF and get their standalone kit. Does the Sachs SRE kit you have come with a different DMF?
adjat84th
Veteran Member
I just sent them an inquiry about fitment to a Sachs DMF vs LUK (a lot of the OE cars use LUK and aren't interchangeable).
My particular "kit" is indeed a stock Sachs DMF, but from a 2.5TDI that has an 8-bolt crank fitment. I believe all the SRE kits come with stock units as well, there is nothing upgraded about them.
My particular "kit" is indeed a stock Sachs DMF, but from a 2.5TDI that has an 8-bolt crank fitment. I believe all the SRE kits come with stock units as well, there is nothing upgraded about them.
Any word back from them on the fitment for LUK or Sachs? My DMF is getting louder by the day
adjat84th
Veteran Member
I inquired about my specific flywheel since it's from a 2.5TDI, but it sounded like they will work with either. Shoot them an email, they were very fast to reply.
That's awesome news! I am really excited to see how this clutch works out.. Now the next question I have, should I just get their basic clutch or their sport twin disk? The torque rating on the basic street clutch is astronomical, and my CJAA will have a rod exit the block before I exceed it. What do you plan on going with?
adjat84th
Veteran Member
I am sticking with what I have for now, it holds plenty..just not the easiest to drive smoothly from a stop with the sintered disc option.
I don't see any reason why you would need anything above the basic street clutch if their rating is proven.
I don't see any reason why you would need anything above the basic street clutch if their rating is proven.
Only one way to find out. Im going to reach out to them and see if one of their smaller adapter kits will work for the LUK or Sachs flywheels, or if I need to purchase the full-up big adapter kit.. Might as well save some cash if I can.
If you're considering it in the future.. Napa has a 20% off sale right now. $515 after tax for the clutch (excluding the fitment kit)
borninabus
Veteran Member
i think the track option would be the best choice.
i roasted the mid-level one in less than 5000 miles.
i wasn't super nice to it after break in, but didn't abuse it either.
the nice thing about it was that the flywheel friction surface was untouched by the UniClutch and i bolted a SRE clutch kit right on after it failed.....and NAPA warrantied the failed UNI without question.
i roasted the mid-level one in less than 5000 miles.
i wasn't super nice to it after break in, but didn't abuse it either.
the nice thing about it was that the flywheel friction surface was untouched by the UniClutch and i bolted a SRE clutch kit right on after it failed.....and NAPA warrantied the failed UNI without question.
I’ve heard the same about the “sport” version. Either the polyurethane bushings fall apart or the friction material goes to ****. I talked with Darkside developments about this too. They had the same experience however, they’ve had great luck with the track version.
If I can get something that’ll hold ~500Ftlb of torque with a comfortable clutch feel and pickup point for ~$800 that’s a good deal. Late model Performance (LMPerformance) has the Uniclutch track for $570, plus fitment kit for $200.
The closest thing from Soutbend is north of $2K, including the DMF of course.
I’ll drop some updates on how it goes, and if it goes to crap I’ve got the same plan. Return it and drop an SRE friction disk and pressure plate in.
borninabus
Veteran Member
agreed on the Southbend. crazy money for a clutch on a street car!
just an FYI, the SRE clutch definitely has a stiffer pedal that stock, but nothing unmanageable.
my 19y/o daughter is currently driving my wagon and says she likes it better than her stock 2015
just an FYI, the SRE clutch definitely has a stiffer pedal that stock, but nothing unmanageable.
my 19y/o daughter is currently driving my wagon and says she likes it better than her stock 2015
I’ve heard the same about the SRE. I’m hopeful the cerametallic friction material will give a much more consistent engagement point. My biggest complaint about the stock clutch is how inconsistent it is. It’ll grab right away in some instances and get the car rolling, other times it’ll just slip until I’m almost fully disengaged then kill the car or anywhere in between on a given drive. I thought the clutch was on its way out when I first bought the car, but it’s been the exact same for the last 60K miles
borninabus
Veteran Member
i think i suggested in another thread to check that the hill hold assist was turned off.
check it out
check it out
p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
I’m running the SRE kit as well and agree with slightly stiffer peddle statement. Super interested in how this one works out for you.
FWIW the stock bleeder block can cause inconsistent engagement point too. It’s so narrow it restricts flow to make it more forgiving. You can take it off and ream it out or break the internal piece into chunks and pull them out. It makes the peddle much more consistent a big difference really. ECS sells a billet one and there are a few other knockoffs out there too. It’s metal and it has got a speed bleeder in it which is a nice bonus. Either way, it’s worth a shot if you’re still using the stock block.
My stock clutch on Mk6 with ~60k on it would slip under load after an off the shelf Stage 2 tune from Malone. Seemed odd but went ahead and did the SRE kit at that time for future proofing and look at what I found…this was original from factory not sure when or how this happened…
FWIW the stock bleeder block can cause inconsistent engagement point too. It’s so narrow it restricts flow to make it more forgiving. You can take it off and ream it out or break the internal piece into chunks and pull them out. It makes the peddle much more consistent a big difference really. ECS sells a billet one and there are a few other knockoffs out there too. It’s metal and it has got a speed bleeder in it which is a nice bonus. Either way, it’s worth a shot if you’re still using the stock block.
My stock clutch on Mk6 with ~60k on it would slip under load after an off the shelf Stage 2 tune from Malone. Seemed odd but went ahead and did the SRE kit at that time for future proofing and look at what I found…this was original from factory not sure when or how this happened…
borninabus
Veteran Member
good point on the bleeder block. my OG one was hollowed out, but the SRE kit exploded it.
i have the ECS aluminum one now.
It’s on a 2010, no hill hold assisti think i suggested in another thread to check that the hill hold assist was turned off.
check it out
I’m running the SRE kit as well and agree with slightly stiffer peddle statement. Super interested in how this one works out for you.
FWIW the stock bleeder block can cause inconsistent engagement point too. It’s so narrow it restricts flow to make it more forgiving. You can take it off and ream it out or break the internal piece into chunks and pull them out. It makes the peddle much more consistent a big difference really. ECS sells a billet one and there are a few other knockoffs out there too. It’s metal and it has got a speed bleeder in it which is a nice bonus. Either way, it’s worth a shot if you’re still using the stock block.
My stock clutch on Mk6 with ~60k on it would slip under load after an off the shelf Stage 2 tune from Malone. Seemed odd but went ahead and did the SRE kit at that time for future proofing and look at what I found…this was original from factory not sure when or how this happened…
That secondary assist spring coming loose is crazy!
I’ve got the ECS bleeder block actually, had it for about 50K miles, along with a clutch stop. I’ve got it dialed in where the pickup point is just after you start releasing the pedal.. even still, sometimes taking off from a stop, it will not engage. I think there may be an issue with the pressure plate tbh. I’m interested to see what comes out of the car
p.e.fletcher
Veteran Member
Yeah I was shocked when it came out looking like that but made sense why it was slipping.That secondary assist spring coming loose is crazy!
I’ve got the ECS bleeder block actually, had it for about 50K miles, along with a clutch stop. I’ve got it dialed in where the pickup point is just after you start releasing the pedal.. even still, sometimes taking off from a stop, it will not engage. I think there may be an issue with the pressure plate tbh. I’m interested to see what comes out of the car
Cool, that’s the same setup I’m using as well and makes a pretty big difference from stock feel. Forgot to mention the stop completely.
Good luck with new clutch!
Hey just curious what your stack height was for your Uniclutch. Just to bump it off someone who had a working one. Instructions say 14MM, that sound familiar?
borninabus
Veteran Member
i did whatever the instructions said to do.
if it calls for 14mm, then that's what i did.
if it calls for 14mm, then that's what i did.
Fair enough
. I only asked as their install instructions call out Sachs DMF-2060 but the correct part for my car is Sachs DMF-91159. So I wasn’t sure if there’s a height difference between the two that needed to be accounted for.. I’ll see what their support says
borninabus
Veteran Member
i was able to call them on the phone during their business hours down under
Clutch is in, pickup is way more consistent than the old clutch, pickup point is at the exact same spot if not a little lower than stock, pedal feel is identical pressure wise.
the car used to have a horrible vibration in reverse, like shake the whole car.. ever sense I bought it 65K miles ago… that vibration is gone, caused by a bad DMF I think
As far as feedback for dropping the trans, obviously get a trans jack.. harbor freight has one for $120 that works great. Also, drop the subframe… just do it. It helps so much. Unbolt the steering rack, shimmy it out from under the sway bar, and you’re golden. If you drop the subframe, you won’t have to take out the CV axels
I’ll post an update once I’ve put a couple thousand miles on the clutch! Here’s to good news when the update comes
if anyone has questions ask away
the car used to have a horrible vibration in reverse, like shake the whole car.. ever sense I bought it 65K miles ago… that vibration is gone, caused by a bad DMF I think
As far as feedback for dropping the trans, obviously get a trans jack.. harbor freight has one for $120 that works great. Also, drop the subframe… just do it. It helps so much. Unbolt the steering rack, shimmy it out from under the sway bar, and you’re golden. If you drop the subframe, you won’t have to take out the CV axels
I’ll post an update once I’ve put a couple thousand miles on the clutch! Here’s to good news when the update comes
if anyone has questions ask away
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