New clutch now no pedal

[Sand Bag]

I installed a new SMF & slightly heavier Sachs clutch. Was going to go start it and depressed the clutch and it practically fell to the floor with barely any rebound. I didn't turn it over as I didn't want to ruin anything. Any pointers would be of huge help!

 

[chaoscreature]

It's a hydraulic clutch system right? Probably just needs to be bled. The hydraulic clutches don't move a lot of fluid around and it just takes a few bubbles to screw things up.
Good Luck! Post you impressions on the SMF when you get it running.

 

[Sand Bag]

Yes that is the conclusion I have come to. I'll get some more brake fluid in the morning and try to bleed it. I just don't understand why or how it got air into the clutch system. I didn't disconnect any of the clutch lines.

 

[nayr]

try pumping on it, when you install the new TOB you typically collapse the piston, but I usually have to re-bleed after a clutch job just for a good pedal feel.. depending on last time you did a hydraulic flush now might be the perfect time to do it, since usually people tend to skip the clutch and only do the brakes.

 

[Sand Bag]

Well I bled the clutch and no luck. Pedal still has no pressure and needs to be pulled up off the floor. I'm a bit flustered at this point and scratching my head. I still haven't turned the car over as it is easy to bleed with battery removed. Any thoughts?

 

[Sand Bag]

Alright, pulled master cylinder out of the trans and pushed the boot back off the ball tip and it looked pretty wet. So I think that is the culprit of my problems (leaking master cylinder).

 

[nkgagne]

Alright, pulled master cylinder out of the trans and pushed the boot back off the ball tip and it looked pretty wet. So I think that is the culprit of my problems (leaking master cylinder).

Don't order a master cylinder - that's in the cabin above the pedal.
Order a slave cylinder - that's on the gearbox pressing on the clutch fork.

 

[Brealistic0]

Make sure you pull the old plastic seal for the slave line from the old one.

 

[Sand Bag]

Make sure you pull the old plastic seal for the slave line from the old one.

Not sure what you are speaking of. I didn't see any old seal. I attempted to bleed the system after installing the new slave cylinder and haven't been able to get pedal back (bubbles don't seem to stop coming). Consequently when inspecting the Master Cylinder inside the car I noticed the plunger rod is fractured. So I'm ordering a new one of those...this is taking forever and the holidays don't help (shipping). Any pointers on getting pedal back/bleeding would be helpful.

 

[arneeche]

If this is the 06 jetta? If so, when you order the new slave and master cylinder you will need to order the new line that goes between them. I had the same problem as you, so I just replaced the slave and master and could not get the line in between the two to seal. Turns out VW has made some revisions to the design of the clutch slave and clutch master requiring a new line. ID parts has all 3 pieces you will need as well as good dot 4 fluid. I would also advise the use of a "motive" or pressure bleeder instead of pumping the pedal. The clutch master is removed from the engine bay by turning it counter clockwise. and be careful to not mess with the clutch pedal too much while the master is out, the over center springs plastic ends can be fragile.

 

[spjackson1]

Many thanks to this thread and site. My son experienced the same clutch pedal stuck to the floor on his 06 Jetta TDI (130k miles). We replaced the slave cylinder, master cylinder, and the line that connects them. We also bled the whole brake and clutch system and all is back to top working order. All in all $250 in parts and 4-5 hours of time. Couldn't have done it without tips and pointers on this site.