New Battery Testing Tool - MUST HAVE!!!

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
and by the way, conductance is just the inverse of resistance. for the lead acid battery, this is one parameter of a mathematical model of the dynamic electrical behavior of the chemicals.

less conductance, more resistance means there is a less efficient transfer of electrons inside the battery.

With a battery, the whole process is non-linear and varies with temperature, the charge status, charge history, load, and load dynamics.


the conductance measure is one data point. (however you like the scaled reading)

Like everything else on the car, if you keep track, it can tell you something.

The BA7 is also a lot lighter than a 100 amp load tester.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
Spent my $ on two of these. Can't beat them. The 2k Golf got 10 years out of the OEM Varta battery using one of these. A little fluid maintenance and 3-day sessions every month or so and good to go the long haul. It left money in my pocket and enough to buy a new battery when it did finally die.

http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-maintenance-charger-desfulator-with-warranty

this looks interesting as well as these

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/12-volt/PP12L.html

which do not need to be plugged in.

Hmmm....
 

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
Did you see the video in #1 post of this thread? This one shows how battery
passes all test with typical tests, but this tool shows it to be at about 60% capacity.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi8sUE9XCgA
Yes I did and the tech proves he knows very little about testing procedures.

The load tester he used places a 100A load on the battery which is not enough for a CCA test. It is for a 200 CCA battery but not that one.

The conductance tester was based on a CA of 900A, so of course it would give you another reading.

Sure it is nothing but a voltmeter, but also a resistance. What do you think a CCA test is. You are measuring battery voltage when it is loaded.

There are a few different load test standards, usually tested at 1/2 the CCA. A battery I tested for a friend had about 600 CCA, so I loaded it at 300A and observed the voltage over 15 seconds...some other more stringent load tests are 30 seconds.

Anyway, I spent many years in a defense lab working / tesing batteries, expensive battery chargers (that promise you the world) and test equipment.

For the shop, use what you want, but there is no guarantee it'll give you a true evaluation. Only a real load test and Ah test tells all. Ran them the proper way and then used one of those fancy smancy testers...it lied.
 

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
Just be glad we don't own a BMW N36 V8 engine.
Yup, that is why my best BMW motorcycle has carbs, gravity feed fuel unlike my other BMW motorcycle that has fuel infection, a fuel pump, Motronic etc.

Nothing like keeping it simple. It gets me to my destination just the same without all that high tech garbage.

But who is to blame for high tech? Consumers that want to be impressed.
 

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
We had one (a PulseTech 490 PT) in our labs and
they are quick but not very informative and many times, dead wrong.

A true test of a battery is done with a load tester and something like a
Progamma Torkel 860 to measure the capacity which is time consuming.
No shop would use one or could afford one other than a battery testing
facility.
LAB? OK we are talking flooded lead acid battery..... OK :)

I tested some friends battery, new batteries, pampered batteries, they had
12.73 volts, showed higher than their 730CCA rating. The Min voltage
during start was above 9 volts. I am 100% sure these batteries are GREEN
Light. Mine a three year old had CCA just below, resting voltage 12.6, start
voltage 8.7v. My point, my battery is very good but relatively less strong than
my buddies new batteries. Do I have 1 year, 2, 3 or 4 more years? Don't know.
I would like to never replace it again before I sell car.

Batteries are not all the same, even new. There are better designs,
materials, recycled lead, virgin lead, manufacture defects, short cuts, etc.
A friends battery had constant terminal corrosion. Replaced the battery,
problem solved; small crack in case caused electrolyte leak.

As a battery dies, some go fast, plates short, some just lose capacity,
slowly. I am not expert on the chemistry of FLA batteries, but eventually
the plates get sulfated. Can you "re-condition" a battery. There are videos,
de-sulfating chargers and powders (epson salt) people throw in, swear by.
Personally I don't like dealing with sulfuric acid. I have tried some of this
and milked a battery along. As long as you drive every day, the charging
system is strong, temps are moderate, engine easy to start, you can get
more time out of the battery.

However if your "weak" but working battery sit, temps get extremely cold,
it will let you down. It's that "reserve" power that we love. Leave the lights
on for an hour and it still start the car in a blizzard, we are good. This tester
will just give you a warm fuzzy if your battery is strong or middle-O-road,
weak or DEAD, but DEAD is pretty obvious, won't hold a charge, won't start.
Even my Schumacher battery charger will tell me percent charge, volts and
if a cell is shorted or battery is not taking the charge.

This little tester is just one indication. It is a parameter the owner/hobbist
could not test before. Electronics get more sophisticated, cheaper, we get
cool testers.

I work on electronics for fun. Last 10 years small $50-$100 capacitor testers
have become popular. Before capacitor bench testers that were $1000's and
required you to take capacitor out of the circuit board. The bench testers actually
charged (high volts) and discharge the capacitor. The small testers uses some
cool principles which allows you to test capacitors "in circuit". Not having to
take the capacitor out the board is priceless. Would I still like an expensive
"lab" capacitor bench tester, ones that cost $5000 new but now can be had
used for $500? Yes! I don't have room and the small tester is good enough.
Capacitors are like small batteries. In the size capacitors I use, they are
cheap enough to just replace. Large capacitors you really want to do a high
volt test, out of the circuit, and they are expensive. You don't just shotgun
them in to see if it fixes the circuit. Small testers are still awesome tools.

Back to batteries. Although prices have gone up, they are not that expensive.
Just replace it if it is suspect. This tester helps you know how strong or weak
the battery is.... "relatively" speaking.

The best "car" battery technology I have seen recently is a HANDLE on the
battery. It makes it easier to install and remove. AGM like Odyssey is really
a great technology (but it has pros and cons). Electric cars use Lithium-ion.
Prius used nickel-metal-hydride technology but has gone to Lithium-ion.
Rechargeable consumer batteries use Ni-Cad, NiMH. They all have pros & cons.
Cost, power density are factors.... My motorcycle has a lithium-ion replacement
for the original FLA. It's three times the price. The dream is a small light high
energy density battery, holds a charge for long time with out loss, has ample
"reserve" power and lasts forever. Batteries are still limited, but the old FLA battery
is still around because they "work" for a while. I suspect they may fade for newer
battery technology yet developed (we can hope). FLA for the price can deliver
+700 amps surge for about $100.

Oh and if you don't want to buy tester, and need battery/car test, AutoZone,
Advance Auto or O'Reilly will test your battery and charging system for free.
One of them (forgot which one) has a very good automated tester; even the
"rocket-surgeons" behind the counter can't screw the test up too bad... it
even has printer with results.
 
Last edited:

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
LAB? OK we are talking flooded lead acid battery..... OK
Yes, a defense lab.

And yes a FLA. Those are all I have faith in and all I buy even if an AGM or GEL would be the same price. Those that I got 16 and 15 years out of and now 9 and going strong in the other car are all FLA. And all had to deal with ultra cold winter starts up here.

I use a 500A carbon pile load tester. I am not worried about capacity as much as I am about internal resistance. I need to start my car. If I was sitting on a battlefield in silent watch mode, I would be concerned with capacity.

And in the end, everybody yaps about everything but the main culprit...dirty connections.


My motorcycle has a lithium-ion replacement
for the original FLA. It's three times the price. The dream is a small light battery that holds a charge, has ample "reserve" power and lasts forever.
Yes I have seen the pages upon pages on these batteries on ADVRider. People have way too much time on their hands.

Light battery? I am saving 10 or 15 pounds on a bike that is already 600 pounds. Not a factor worth considering in my case.

Holds a charge? Not when you have a 20 or 40 mA current drain while parked.

Lasts forever? Not according to that thread. Too many issues and a Li-Ion is very particular as to how it is charged. Overcharge it and it is toast which is why I like single-cell li-ion batteries...in my smart phone and digital camera.
 

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
Yes, a defense lab.
Yep those mission critical batteries are very special and have all kinds of
specifications and manuals to maintain them....

A brand new Boeing 787 almost burned on the ground due to an ELT
battery. Long story but they installed the battery with pinched wires... it
shorted and those batteries have a lot of energy. Pretty sure it was a
lithium-ion. ELT batteries need to hold a charge for a years and then
perform. Then they are just thrown away....

I have a smart charger for my NiMH AAA and AA batteries. It measures
temperature and charge rate. It measure battery capacity. It can even
"recondition" the battery to improve capacity; it takes a day or more to
recondition. It goes through several charge discharge cycles. FLA and dry
batteries are most definitely different.


Of course there is the annual ritual of replacing 9 volt smoke alarm batteries.
 
Last edited:

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
A brand new Boeing 787 almost burned on the ground due to an ELT
battery. Long story but they installed the battery with pinched wires... it
shorted and those batteries have a lot of energy. Pretty sure it was a l
lithium-ion. ELT batteries need to hold a charge for a years and then
perform.
This is why I do not want one in an aircraft I am on. This battery was hit by a 5.56 x 45 NAT0 round at one of our other test sites. The video is cut short from about 20 minutes.

Try putting one of those fires out...good luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYbn_M7rm2c
 

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
Not so sure about BA7

Hi Folks. Well, I purchased one of the Solar BA7 testers. I figured the theory was good.

I used my recently retired battery from my 2012 Golf. Original battery that was replaced 9 days ago by a Varta AGM.

My Schumacher PST-200 tester reported 10.9 volts after the test and flagged GOOD + WEAK LEDs which equates to marginal in my books. Temperature was above +20F which decreases the readings. My hydrometer reported just over 0.1200... labeled as FAIR. I then measured cranking volts using the cars' starter, and that reported 9.6 volts. Based on these results I replaced the battery.

So, my BA7 arrived yesterday. The old battery was charged and reading 12.66 volts. The battery has 640 CCA, and is the traditional SLI type. The BA7 reported CCA as 715 and gave the green OK light.

I call the BA7 out as inaccurate. The hydrometer doesn't lie, neither does the cars' starter cranking voltage.

I then tested my new AGM battery with the BA7 set to FLAT, and it reported a CCA of 817. The CCA is rated at 760.

I'm not convinced the BA7 is accurate. It MIGHT be for the AGM as I have no way to prove otherwise, but it's certainly misleading for the traditional flooded batteries.

Any thoughts on my thoughts? ;)

H.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
Hi Folks. Well, I purchased one of the Solar BA7 testers. I figured the theory was good.

I used my recently retired battery from my 2012 Golf. Original battery that was replaced 9 days ago by a Varta AGM.

My Schumacher PST-200 tester reported 10.9 volts after the test and flagged GOOD + WEAK LEDs which equates to marginal in my books. Temperature was above +20F which decreases the readings. My hydrometer reported just over 0.1200... labeled as FAIR. I then measured cranking volts using the cars' starter, and that reported 9.6 volts. Based on these results I replaced the battery.

So, my BA7 arrived yesterday. The old battery was charged and reading 12.66 volts. The battery has 640 CCA, and is the traditional SLI type. The BA7 reported CCA as 715 and gave the green OK light.

I call the BA7 out as inaccurate. The hydrometer doesn't lie, neither does the cars' starter cranking voltage.

I then tested my new AGM battery with the BA7 set to FLAT, and it reported a CCA of 817. The CCA is rated at 760.

I'm not convinced the BA7 is accurate. It MIGHT be for the AGM as I have no way to prove otherwise, but it's certainly misleading for the traditional flooded batteries.

Any thoughts on my thoughts? ;)

H.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4855667&postcount=18

One thing to consider is that the CCA rating is a target. (at specified temperature and load conditions) your battery does not "have" 640 CCA, it is rated to deliver at least 640 CCA.

The measured value of conductance scaled to CCA is a measure. if your battery acted like mine, it could have run a bit more before it refused to start the car. (but probably only for a couple months) using the meter at normal temperatures on a good battery should give you higher values than the rating.

the best way to use this tool is not a simple is it good or bad, but to record and plot behavior over time.

( I am not making this up, but found the idea at several battery related sites.)
 
Last edited:

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
I contacted Clore Tech Support, and it was basically told that the BA7 is recording fine.

So, although the other tests that I had performed all indicate a weaker battery, and Tech Support agreed, the BA7 was still indicating an OK status.

I was also told that the CCA rating of the battery the BA7 was recording indicates a good battery. Having a three year old battery still exceeding the 640 CCA rating was interesting to me as my reading was 715 CCA. I would have thought it would have been less than 640.

I do agree that monitoring over time and trending the information from the Solar would be good to know, but my concern is that with my low starter cranking voltage of 9.6 volts indicates it was on the weak side of things. Also it is true that the cranking voltage is also feeding all the cables, starter, and other electrics in the car.

Admittedly, I was surprised that the BA7 indicated an OK status given the other information that I had gathered. I was expecting it to report WEAK as the hydrometer readings were so low.

NOTE: I have serviced this battery every year at the same time of year, with the same hydrometer, load tester (PST-200), and charger (Optimate4 smart charger) and I have trending data on the hydrometer readings.

As others have mentioned in this thread, the BA7 is one tool, but it is not the definitive tool. I was going to sell my toaster tester (PST-200), but I think I will keep that one.

Tech Support really couldn't answer why the BA7 indicates OK when the data I presented indicates WEAK. He said he had other calls to take.

EDIT: I measured the cranking volts on the Varta AGM that is currently in the car, and it is 10.73 volts vs. the 9.6 on the old battery as per my digital multi-meter.

H.
 
Last edited:

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
Agreed, Mike. I certainly wouldn't' make a decision to replace a battery based solely on the information provided by the BA7 based on my experience.

H.
 

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
Did you see the video in #1 post of this thread?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi8sUE9XCgA
Yes and Kent Bergsma's other videos in the series.

I commented on some of his videos and also answered some questions that others had on them. He has since switched to "Comments are disabled for this video" for all his Battery Clinic videos.

Well he is a mechanic that just read or heard things somewhere, but he really does not know batteries or battery testing.

Just look at the 11:40 minute segment of his 4th video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PAyHIhK8g4

"A voltage regulator putting out more than 14 amps" :rolleyes: Voltage regulators do not put out "amps", they control the alternator.

The guy is selling stuff. His videos are an info-commercial. And he did not like the fact that I wrote the Xantrex Truecharge 2 is the best battery charger and one that we thoroughly tested all aspects of, on his video.

The internet is the greatest source of unconfirmed information, and he proves that.
 
Last edited:

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
Yes, there are different standards for CCA.

Call the manufacturer and ask them which they have chosen.
I emailed Varta, and this is what they had to say about the CCA standard used as well as their thoughts on my old battery...

-----------
The CCA rating for our batteries is based on the European Norm (EN) and is calculated at 0°F (-17.8°C) for 30 seconds and be able to maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell to determine the amp rating.

From the tests that have been performed on your original battery it would suggest that this is not holding a charge or has a dead cell either of which could be a result of the battery reaching the end of its service life.



[FONT=&quot]Johnson Controls Batteries Limited
3rd Floor, Aston House
62 - 68 Oak End Way, Gerrards Cross SL9 8BR, Great Britain

[/FONT]

------------
And yet the BA7 tested 'OK' on that battery.

UPDATE: Returned tester for a full refund. Thanks, Amazon!

H.
 
Last edited:

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
I emailed Varta, and this is what they had to say about the CCA standard used as well as their thoughts on my old battery...

-----------
The CCA rating for our batteries is based on the European Norm (EN) and is calculated at 0°F (-17.8°C) for 30 seconds and be able to maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell to determine the amp rating.

From the tests that have been performed on your original battery it would suggest that this is not holding a charge or has a dead cell either of which could be a result of the battery reaching the end of its service life.

[FONT=&quot]Johnson Controls Batteries Limited
3rd Floor, Aston House
62 - 68 Oak End Way, Gerrards Cross SL9 8BR, Great Britain
[/FONT]

------------
And yet the BA7 tested 'OK' on that battery.

UPDATE: Returned tester for a full refund. Thanks, Amazon!

H.
This is what I have in my notes (and MS Word)...

BCI: Battery Council International
DIN: Deutsches Institut für Normung(German Institute for Standardization)
IEC: International Electrotechnical Commission


SAE CCA Standard

According to SAE J537, a CCA reading of 500A delivers 500A at -18°C (0°F) for 30 seconds without dropping below 7.2 volts.

Garages seldom do the full-fletched CCA test; this belongs to laboratories. Instead, device manufacturers offer alternatives and the [FONT=&quot]carbon pile[/FONT] introduced in the 1980s is one of the oldest and most reliable methods. To do a pass/fail test, a fully charged starter battery is loaded with half the rated CCA for 15 seconds at a moderate temperature of 10º C (50º F) and higher. The battery will pass if the voltage stays above 9.6V.


[FONT=&quot]CCA[/FONT] Cold cranking amps at –18°C (0°F). The norms differ as follows:


  • BCI loads battery at CCA-rate for 30s; battery at or above 7.2V passes.
  • IEC loads battery at CCA-rate for 60s; battery at or above 8.4V passes.
  • DIN loads battery at CCA-rate for 30s and 150s; battery at or above 9V and 6V respectively passes.


SAE CCA Standard

The discharge load in amperes which a new, fully charged battery at -18º C (0º F), can deliver power for 30 seconds and maintain a minimum voltage of 7.2 volts.


DIN CCA Standard

The discharge load in amperes which a new, fully charged battery at -18º C (0º F), can deliver power for 30 seconds and maintain a minimum voltage of 9.0 volts.


IEC CCA Standard

The discharge load in amperes which a new, fully charged battery at -18º C (0º F), can deliver power for 60 seconds and maintain a minimum voltage of 8.4 volts.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

It looks like the EN, SAE and BCI standards are the same. The DIN and IEC standards appear to be harder to pass.

By the way, divide the voltage by 6 to get the per cell voltage (assuming a balanced battery).

I use a 500A carbon pile load tester. You can get them at Harbor Freight right now at the sale price of $49.99 (reg $79.99).
 
Last edited:

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
So, my BA7 arrived yesterday. The old battery was charged and reading
12.66 volts. The battery has 640 CCA, and is the traditional SLI type. The
BA7 reported CCA as 715 and gave the green OK light. H.
Here is my take... You just charged it to the max.,
tested it right away. I bet if you wait a day CAA will drop,
you are suppose to wait to test it after charging... because
it has full surface charge: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/surf_chg.html

This is how batteries give false indications and why they make
"LOAD TESTERS" which sucks down that surface charge. You
measure voltage before and after load.
Who said it was bad. Why did you think it's bad? It's still working.

How did you do the start test? Did you put it back in the car?
What is the start voltage? +9 volts or 8 volt, less than 8 volts?
After a start, do an immediate shut down, tested again.
I'd bet the CCA would be much lower.

Let the battery sit for several days, test it again.
I am sure you will see lower CAA. I think the surface charge
effect made the BA7 think you had more capacity that is
not really there.

However I do think your battery is good and why it tested good.
It started your car every time?

Let that old battery sit day or two, test it again.
CAA should read below rated CAA as it goes south.
I think your battery has some life in it.
You tricked the BA7. Shame on you... :)
 
Last edited:

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
Thanks for the great info!

H.
When I tested a friend's battery earlier this year, I didn't worry do much about being exactly at X volts or more. His car would start, but you could tell the battery was slowing down. Putting it on the carbon pile load tester, I dialed in about 300 amps and the voltage dropped down to 6V in seconds at which point I disconnected and saw enough...new battery. Note that current is higher than the starter would draw on a warm day so it was a tougher test than the starter put on the battery, but it was about 1/2 load. Group 48 batteries are about 650 CCA.
 

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
I used my recently retired battery from my 2012 Golf. Original battery that was replaced 9 days ago by a Varta AGM.

My Schumacher PST-200 tester reported 10.9 volts after the test and flagged GOOD + WEAK LEDs which equates to marginal in my books.
Just going back to your post.

10.9V is a totally discharged battery. I take it that was an open circuit voltage?

My hydrometer reported just over 0.1200... labeled as FAIR.
Sure enough, almost water. A fully charged battery will read 1.265 to 1.285.
 

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
GMC: I tested this battery over several days. The tester gave higher results of over 750 CCA on some days. I saw 787 CCA one day, 715 another day.

The only testers that gave consistent results were the hydrometer, and the toaster load tester. The BA7 unit was all over the place.

The battery was on the way out, and the BA7 was quite happy indicating a false 'OK'. Its hard to trust equipment that doesn't work consistently.

Even Solar Tech Support agreed that the battery was weak. He was unable to say why the BA7 was saying the battery was 'OK' when it should have been displaying 'WEAK'.

H.
 

Hyates

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
SOLD
Just going back to your post.

10.9V is a totally discharged battery. I take it that was an open circuit voltage?



Sure enough, almost water. A fully charged battery will read 1.265 to 1.285.
993er: The 10.9v was recorded during the load test by the PST-200 tester, not resting voltage. Resting voltage was around 12.66 v.

Yes, the electrolyte indicates a 'done' battery. It wouldn't come back up after charging.

H.
 

flyboy320

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Location
GTA, Canada
TDI
2018 e-Golf
When you guys are testing the batteries, are you testing them after you put a charger on them and fully charge them, or are you testing them a few after driving them, or after sitting for a few days? I have both a hydrometer and the BA7 so I would like to get some trend data on the battery but need to know the correct way to see the state of the battery.
 

993er

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
Canada
TDI
None
You always test a battery from the fully charged state.

There are other aspects to battery health as well, not just a load and capacity test, although they are the most revealing in my opinion.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
with the BA7, it is best to do what you can do consistently, since the conductance test is best used for looking at a single battery over time.

I use the tester in the driveway on my cooled off car.

(normal driving, and I usually select for a nice day:))

and it is good to run all the tests, open circuit voltage, conductance based (use a consistent scale, CCA, CA, ...) starting load test, and if you like, the charging voltage test.

you might want to note any special conditions, (extreme temperatures, for example)
 
Last edited:

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
GMC: I tested this battery over several days. The tester gave higher results
of over 750 CCA on some days. I saw 787 CCA one day, 715 another day.

The only testers that gave consistent results were the hydrometer, and the
toaster load tester. The BA7 unit was all over the place. The battery was on
the way out, and the BA7 was quite happy indicating a false 'OK'. Its hard
to trust equipment that doesn't work consistently.

Even Solar Tech Support agreed that the battery was weak. He was unable
to say why the BA7 was saying the battery was 'OK' when it should have
been displaying 'WEAK'. H.
Send it back under warranty. Why did they say it is WEAK?

Thanks for getting back. So the CCA is holding but inconsistent from day to
day (I assume battery is out of car and not being charged). How is the
voltage? Is it hanging in there 12.6 volts? It sounds good. If you did a start
test and the voltage stayed up in the 9's or above say 8.7 volts you have a
good battery, at least according to the BA7 (and my book).

Hydrometer SG measures electrolyte chemistry directly, indirectly charge:
100%, 75%, 50%, 25%, 0% > 1.265, 1.225, 1.190, 1.155, 1.120
That is reading charged?

Volts is charge state, and indirectly capacity.
100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60% > 12.7, 12.5, 12.42, 12.32, 12.2
You are holding voltage?

The BA7 is a (I think):
Internal Resistance meter (mega ohms) indirect indication of CCA
volt meter, resting volts (charge state) indirect indication of charge level
volt meter reads low volt & holds display (start test) indirect indication of condition (OK/Bad)
volt meter reads volt change (no load to load test) indirect indication of charging system (OK/Bad)

BA7 - assume micro processor says if above is in OK range, all indirect.
The BA7 can likely tell you it's BAD, shorted cell, but then it would be
obvious I think with out the BA7.
Obvious is it can not be fully charged.
Obvious will not hold the charge.
Obvious will not start car after charging (assuming connections and starter are OK)

The BA7 may not be the final definitive word, one test does it all tool. It's
just a data point. You have to take into account: battery age, history,
holding charge days/weeks? Starting the car enthusiastically? It's OK right?
 
Last edited:

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
"A voltage regulator putting out more than 14 amps" :rolleyes: Voltage regulators do not put out "amps", they control the alternator.
The guy is selling stuff..
The internet is the greatest source of unconfirmed information, and he proves that.
:) Ha ha. Yep you are right.

The reviews of the BA7, Harbor Freight and other testers based on same principles, say they are OK, not perfect. I was a little too enthusiastic in my rhetoric. They are not perfect indicators, just like all things dealing with a battery, somewhat relative and subjective. I do still recommend this style of tester. There may be a better brand? It's better than NOTHING. I don't want to Hydrometer tester or Specific Gravity test a sealed FLA battery (you can pry the cover off in general but no thanks). Don't want to buy a pile/load tester.

As long as the battery starts the car and can run the radio and parking lights for a few hours and still start the car, it's good. I know my original battery at age 3 years old, could not run the parking lights for 9 hours and start the car. Not sure any battery could. My replacement is now +2 years old. Not sure how long it will run the parking lights and still start car.
 
Last edited:
Top