Need helps plugging oil leaks!

[Shadowsbane0]

Looking for targeted repair suggestions (required parts if you know them). I can find the details once pointed in the right direction.

I have my daughters 2013 Beetle TDI for a broken belt tensioner (Already repaired). Looking everything else over she has two significant oil leaks. The first is on the top of the motor that I suspect is the valve cover gasket. The second is a hose low in the front of the driver side. It looks like it runs up to a solid mount back into the engine block. I have no idea what the tube is or why there is so much oil. Maybe part of an oil cooler?? Photos attached

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

Engine cover removed

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 2 of oil pool

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 1 of oil pool

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 3 of oil pool

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 1 of low oil leak at hose connected near radiator.

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 1 of hose route

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• Shadowsbane0
• Mar 13, 2023

View 2 of hose path up to engine block

 

[Shoveltrev]

honestly the second leak is the boostpipe oozing crankcase vapor goo , most of them do it , replacing the orig may help. the top side leak i would cleen up and recheck because if its the injector sealplate you have to pull the injectors to replace them and the copper washers . looks like it could be your oil cap too

 

[oilhammer]

You need a new valve cover , it comes with a gasket, and all the injector washers/seals/hold downs/plates.

The charge air pipe weeping looks pretty normal. You can replace the o-ring, but in a few months it'll look the same.

 

[Shadowsbane0]

Thank you Shoveltrev and oilhammer. I had found some information on the charge air pipe. I’m ordering a new one because hers looks like the rubber as deteriorated from the constant oil sitting there. I’m sure having her fiance’ change her oil is part of the problem as well. She got sticker shock when I told her how much it was for the oil change with me doing the labor free. She said it was never that much when her fiance’ would change it. Pretty sure he was just buy cheap synthetic from the auto parts store.

My daughter pretty much drives the car like a commuter. I found some info that suggests to run it out about once a month and get the RPMs at least 4K and it will suck up and clean out a lot of that weep. I already drive my TDI Passat that way normally so I’ve never seen the problem.

Shoveltrev when you say replace them are you talking the whole injector or just pull it, clean up the injector and replace with new seals? Also, I see her injector setup is different than mine CKRA vs CJAA. Is it required to replace the injector plates and nuts for the job?

Thank you both for the direction.

 

[oilhammer]

The CKRA's valve cover/injector arrangement is different. They have a built-in grommet on the valve cover for the injectors to pass through.

The CJAA uses these parallelogram trapezoids (remember geometry? ) with built in seals around each injector that turn 90 degrees to allow access to the injector hold down nuts and clamps that are in the cavity below.

So after the rail, fuel lines, electrical connectors, return hose assembly, etc. is all out of the way, you remove the little Allen screws, turn each plate, and remove the injector hold downs, then remove the injector (usually requires the slide hammer type removal tool) with the plate and clamp hanging on each one.