Need help, crank but no start

[Pawpatrol]

Hello,

First post here, I just cleaned my entire emissions system and throttle body, intake manifold, valves, now the vehicle will crank but not start and it threw a bunch of codes all pertaining to the equipment I just removed, cleaned and reinstalled. I cleaned everything w the appropriate type of cleaner. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor. I appreciate the help.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Hey I am a mk4 guy, not mk6 but at least I can get this bumped back up. I did mine last fall and an errant vac line was loose on the end, going to the ASV, causing issues. I would meticulously re check all sensors connections that they are tight and the correct way, and check every connection on the vac lines. Sorry if that was not helpful, just trying to cover some bases. Also try clearing those codes, maybe it sensed that things were disconnected, and is not allowing a start? A reset may clear you up.

 

[Garrison]

Clear all the codes and try again - you can post your scan here too for additional information/help

 

[Pawpatrol]

Hey I am a mk4 guy, not mk6 but at least I can get this bumped back up. I did mine last fall and an errant vac line was loose on the end, going to the ASV, causing issues. I would meticulously re check all sensors connections that they are tight and the correct way, and check every connection on the vac lines. Sorry if that was not helpful, just trying to cover some bases. Also try clearing those codes, maybe it sensed that things were disconnected, and is not allowing a start? A reset may clear you up.

I appreciate any help and advice I can get. So far I have cleared codes, disconnected the battery, unplugged and reconnected connections, checked connections that I know I messed with. I am with you that I either have a fuel issue or I have bumped something loose.

 

[Pawpatrol]

Clear all the codes and try again - you can post your scan here too for additional information/help

I am ordering vcds today and will post my results. I appreciate it.

 

[Pawpatrol]

Alright, I got VCDS and what I realized is the fuel pump doesn’t turn off when the ignition is on. It just keeps going. So I assume I have a short somewhere. Possibly a vacuum leak? Any suggestions are much appreciated.

 

[Pawpatrol]

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/img_3912-jpeg.160093/full

 

[Pawpatrol]

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Why are you pointing at the fuel temp sensor?

 

[Pawpatrol]

Great question. Next question. I am not super intimate with the tdi. This is the line that has a constant flow of fuel going through it when the ignition is on.

 

[Pawpatrol]

So that part is vibrating and buzzing constantly. Is this normal? So I guess it may not be the pump that is pushing fuel.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Would a fuel sensor be vibrating on its own, or because the fuel pump is pushing fuel at it? There are 3 fuel pumps. 1 mechanical (operates when engine is turning) and 2 electrical. None of the 3 are controlled by vacuum.

 

[Pawpatrol]

I only say that it is vibrating on its own because I l pulled the fuel line off of the sensor and nothing came out of the line until I did the pump activation. But the sensor was still buzzing away. It seemed like fuel came out plenty fast

 

[turbodieseldyke]

It might help if you went back to the beginning, or before the beginning of this post, to explain what errors you were solving by removing & cleaning all those parts. I don't know whether that sensor is supposed to vibrate, as i've never bothered to check it. Maybe someone else knows. If Vagcom isn't reporting an error for that part, i doubt it's preventing your engine from starting.

 

[Pawpatrol]

I would agree it’s probably not preventing the engine from starting. I had codes for egr and dpf insufficient flow and my mpg had dropped.

 

[Pawpatrol]

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 997 030 E HW: 03L 907 309 AA
Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l TDI G000AG 9983
Software Coding: 0050078
Work Shop Code: WSC 29269 002 1048576
VCID: 303EC9BD662C84AAE73-8064
5 Faults Found:

000387 - Fuel Temp. Sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 000 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211279 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2059.14.28
Time: 02:23:14

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 11.70 V
Temperature: 26.1 C
Temperature: 29.7 C
Temperature: 42.3 C
Temperature: -90.0 C

001592 - Throttle Body Actuator Bank 1 (J338)
P0638 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211279 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2059.14.28
Time: 06:58:58

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 12.46 V
Lambda: 99.4 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000

008450 - Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Motor Circuit
P2102 - 000 - Signal Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211279 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2059.14.28
Time: 07:09:35

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Load: 100.0 %
Lambda: 99.4 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Temperature: 29.7 C

008448 - Throttle Actuator Control Circuit
P2100 - 000 - Open Circuit - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211279 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2059.14.28
Time: 07:09:35

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Load: 100.0 %
Lambda: 99.4 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Temperature: 29.7 C

008449 - Throttle Valve Actuator Control System
P2101 - 000 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211279 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 12.62 V
Lambda: 99.4 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000


Readiness: 0 0 0 1 1

 

[turbodieseldyke]

First of all, cleaning the emissions components is not a long-term solution. If your dpf is cracked, it will continue leaking soot into the egr and other catalytic converters downstream. The only fix is a new dpf, or deleting it.

As for the new errors, have you tried unplugging those wire connectors and making sure the contacts are clean and clicked in good? Maybe also google around if there are any functionality tests vagcom can do on those parts.

 

[Pawpatrol]

So those codes came from the throttle body being unplugged, plugged in and those codes cleared but we still are not starting. I also used vcds to prime the fuel system. I used vcds to test all of the valves, EGR, Throttle body, Exhaust, low pressure EGR. All seem to function fine.

 

[Garrison]

I don't mean to sound rude, have you tried clearing the codes?

Did you unplug the terminals on the battery before removing things to clean them?

 

[Pawpatrol]

I have cleared the codes, I did not disconnect the battery when I unplugged things. I don’t currently have any codes. It just cranks and won’t start. The question I do have now though, does VCDS normally have a readout for the fuel pressure sensor? It does not for me.

 

[Garrison]

Yeah you can monitor that via VCDS

So no codes but it wont start? Interesting - so it just cranks and cranks?

Are you sure you put everything back correctly?

In the future unplug the battery when making any electrical changes to avoid this headache

You need three things for a diesel to fire over, air, fuel, and compression. If it speeds up when you're cranking it you have compression. Air is an obvious one as it should always be flowing air, even w/o the turbo (unless there's an obstruction, like the throttle body is stuck closed). So that leaves fuel. You could have an air pocket in there which will prevent it from starting. If you pull the line into the fuel rail and prime the pump via VCDS should have fuel pressure

 

[Pawpatrol]

I will disconnect the battery next time. I appreciate that advice. I don’t have any bolts left over and I don’t see any unplugged connections. I used vcds to prime the fuel system twice and it definitely needed it. With that, VCDS says 30 seconds three times. VCDS will run the test longer than 30 seconds. I have compression, I removed the glow plugs to make sure I hadn’t filled the cylinders up with fuel, I cranked it and nothing came out onto the paper towels but you could here the air coming out with some good force. I did not do an actual compression test though. Before I took everything off, the car was running overall smooth. The throttle body valve works, I felt it close and open with vcds. The EGR valve moves but it only moves about 1/16” inch, not sure what the distance of travel is supposed to be. The turbo was working fine before I took everything off and it spun freely without any back and forth play. So it definitely seems like it’s a fuel issue. Just not sure what happened.

 

[Pawpatrol]

is there a better method with vcds to prime or check the fuel system? Should I let it run until the pump turns off or 30 seconds on the dot x3?

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

It is a shot in the dark but... one year I refurbed my starter, and afterwards I had a no start condition that really made my sweat glands work. Turns out the electrical harness connecter could go on in either direction, and only one way worked. I turned it around and off it went. Check that all your connectors are in correctly, that is worth a look to check a box.

 

[Pawpatrol]

That’s really interesting. I will go check them.

 

[Pawpatrol]

So unfortunately that’s not the issue. That would have been sweet.

 

[Garrison]

I left my fuel system open for days when I did my CP3 conversion, if you prime it and it comes out the line that connects to the fuel rail, youve got fuel pressure to at least the injectors and its not throwing injector codes

That thing you said, you said you "felt" it move. Removing the EGR and visually inspecting the throttle plate actually actuates the full range would be a good next step

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Vagcom will tell you the compression numbers while you crank it (I forget which data block). No need to hook up a physical gauge. I doubt you lost compression anyway.

 

[Pawpatrol]

I got it running, I had to floor the gas pedal while cranking it and it finally started. It seems to run good, it threw a P242C code shortly after starting. So I am guessing I messed up and routed a cable too close to the exhaust and melted it. So go me. But at least it’s running. I appreciate all of the help you all gave me. Genuinely appreciated. If there is any other suggestions or just good things to know/do to make this motor run as good as possible. Please send that knowledge my way.

 

[Garrison]

A can of diesel purge or similar in the fuel filter container + filter, timing belt service done on time and correctly, and keep the oil changed out

Otherwise these things can run for a long time (until the DPF gets destroyed by the EGR), but there's always the option to delete