Need A/C info for swap 09 CBEA

Alberta 7.3

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2017
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
TDI
CBEA Ranger under construction
I'm using a 09 Jetta CBEA for my Ranger swap. The Jetta A/C compressor utilizes a control valve rather than a pulley clutch. I will be using the Ranger A/C compressor to keep the A/C system plumbing all Ford. I want to use the Jetta Climatic control head circuit board to control the A/C system since it will control the radiator fans via CAN and also will provide low ambient cutoff and compressor cycling, where the "dumb" Ford head merely turns on power to the compressor/pressure switch circuit. (I will have to graft in a few temperature sensors to the trucks ductwork.)

My big question is does the solenoid valve signal on the compressor just get full 12V on/off that I could power a relay to run the clutch, or is it some funky PWM signal to modulate the valve?
 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
I'm having a hard time just getting a standard 12v c on/off clutch out of a 2005 Passat to play no nicely with my original R12a expansion valve Toyota system.


Thus far the upgrades include a trinary switch to act as my low/high pressure kill switch

Two 5 prong 30 amp relays, one to turn on the ac clutch and the other to turn on the electric fan

Replaced the expansion valve and drier with denso OEM replacements.

Flushed the entire system to get ready for pag oil

All foam/seals for blend doors and vent connections replaced for optimum blowing efficiency

Even my condenser was replaced in favor of a more efficient twenty six row condenser specifically designed for more surface area for using a lesser efficient r134 rather than the original R12.

I purchased R12a to try. Just one 6oz can is equal to 18 oz r134a. I only cooled to @61 degrees on an 88 degree day. Adding more sent my pressures skyrocketing. Any less than one can and it didn't cool.

Switched back to r134a. Added one 12oz can and zero cooling.

Added can number two, half way though can 2 and I was at 55 degrees. As can number 2 was almost empty I was at 48-50 degrees at approximately 80 degrees. Very humid as a storm had rolled through that afternoon. Pressures barely hitting 210psi on high side and low pressure maybe 40psi.


The cans are not completely empty when removed them so I'm guessing about 18-20 oz in the system that called for 22 R12a in the 4 runner with original compressor

The rag top doesn't offer the same insulation as a hard top so my recirculating temps will be limited.

I was hoping for mid to low 40 degrees temps but that's the best I've been able to achieve.


I don't know how old your ranger is but by next step is removing the expansion valve and installing an orifice tube into the line going into the evaporator line sometime this winter I'll try to take another few degrees off my outlet temps.
 
Last edited:

Alberta 7.3

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2017
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
TDI
CBEA Ranger under construction
It is duty cycled (PWM). I think you'll have a difficult time blending those two very different systems.
Thanks for the info, I'll probably just use the board with an A/C on signal so it will command the ECU to run the fans, saving me having to add extra relays and decipher the cooling fan circuits.
I'm having a hard time just getting a standard 12v c on/off clutch out of a 2005 Passat to play no nicely with my original R12a expansion valve Toyota system.


Thus far the upgrades include a trinary switch to act as my low/high pressure kill switch

Two 5 prong 30 amp relays, one to turn on the ac clutch and the other to turn on the electric fan

Replaced the expansion valve and drier with denso OEM replacements.

Flushed the entire system to get ready for pag oil

All foam/seals for blend doors and vent connections replaced for optimum blowing efficiency

Even my condenser was replaced in favor of a more efficient twenty six row condenser specifically designed for more surface area for using a lesser efficient r134 rather than the original R12.

I purchased R12a to try. Just one 6oz can is equal to 18 oz r134a. I only cooled to @61 degrees on an 88 degree day. Adding more sent my pressures skyrocketing. Any less than one can and it didn't cool.

Switched back to r134a. Added one 12oz can and zero cooling.

Added can number two, half way though can 2 and I was at 55 degrees. As can number 2 was almost empty I was at 48-50 degrees at approximately 80 degrees. Very humid as a storm had rolled through that afternoon. Pressures barely hitting 210psi on high side and low pressure maybe 40psi.


The cans are not completely empty when removed them so I'm guessing about 18-20 oz in the system that called for 22 R12a in the 4 runner with original compressor

The rag top doesn't offer the same insulation as a hard top so my recirculating temps will be limited.

I was hoping for mid to low 40 degrees temps but that's the best I've been able to achieve.


I don't know how old your ranger is but by next step is removing the expansion valve and installing an orifice tube into the line going into the evaporator line sometime this winter o try to take another free degrees off my outlet temps.
It's a 2008 Ranger. All my A/C system is "stock." Same evaporator, accumulator, and condenser. The only change made was to use a compressor and refrigerant lines for a four cylinder, that way I could package the entire system on the passenger side of the engine bay rather than having a line across the top of the engine a la V6. The only challenge was building a bracket to hang it on that side of the TDI block.
 
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