Yeah just pulled two leaking racks off the shelf, the only clicking I got out of those was the inner tie rods.Not normal
Make sure nothing is hitting the tie rod ends, linkage etc.. also inside the car down by the steering shaft make sure nothing is binding there as well
So on your Mystery Pull after you put the suspension parts in & before your alignment was your steering wheel straight or turn to the right or left a little?So I've got a very annoying issue with my car. The alignment is perfect, but it pulls slightly to the right most of the time. Sometimes the problem goes away on its own, before coming back again. Drove across Canada and that cost me half the tread on the front right tire.
All steering/suspension parts are pretty much less than a year old on the car. Only thing that's not done are the rear axle bushings.
Brakes are all new, everything is greased up and sliding properly. Installed a new master cylinder and brake booster a few months ago, flushed the whole system incl. ABS module.
Where would you guys look next? I'm suspecting two things, and I hope it's the first : I noticed that there's a lot of wiggle on the rear passenger side top carrier pin, which could maybe lead to the caliper being loose and causing the inner pad to drag on the rotor. Does this sound like a plausible theory?
The other one is a bad ABS module, but I feel like this would cause more drag and heat that would be easier to notice. I also want to try anything before even thinking of touching this.
You need an alignment. Are you just guessing when you adjust the ball joints?So on your Mystery Pull after you put the suspension parts in & before your alignment was your steering wheel straight or turn to the right or left a little?
The alignment made the wheel centered again if it was off centered?
Because I’m having I tire wear a problem my steering wheel is off centered to the right the only thing I have done was change struts,ball joints and the clutch at a different time and now my steering wheel is off Center to the right and my right front tire is wearing out really fast as well
I have re-adjusted my ball joints a dozen times it does not fix the problem
The position of the ball joints affect the toe. Needs to be aligned.Well yes kind of but do you think an alignment shop is going to adjust my camber when in their eyes is non-adjustable? I never touched my tie rods ends
So you got an alignment and you’re right front tire still wore out you mean?So it's not the rack adjustment. Any tighter, and the wheel becomes hard to turn, yet the sound is still there. I'm a little skeptical about the rack being the issue, though.
The position of the ball joints affect the toe. Needs to be aligned.
That was last year, since then I had 4 alignments done, no sign of abnormal tire wear yet...So you got an alignment and you’re right front tire still wore out you mean?
I will definitely check this.Are the ball joints installed on the correct side? Weird things happen when you get them on the wrong side. The joint is supposed to line up with the line of the caster, when you get left and right switched, the joint now doesn't have the full range of movement it should in one direction and starts to do weird things. Get odd memory steer, weird clicks out of the suspension etc.
Yes installed on the correct sides I double checkedAre the ball joints installed on the correct side? Weird things happen when you get them on the wrong side. The joint is supposed to line up with the line of the caster, when you get left and right switched, the joint now doesn't have the full range of movement it should in one direction and starts to do weird things. Get odd memory steer, weird clicks out of the suspension etc.
Yeah it's pretty aggravating, sometimes the pull goes away and tracks perfectly straight, but most often it's there and takes all the the joy out of driving the car, as it takes constant steering input to keep it on the road.I keep coming back to this expecting you would have solved it. Apparently this is a real tough one.
Guessing you've ruled out the tires. I might fool with the pressures, as low as 28, up to maybe 40. Or it could just be the tires.
I've only had 2 TDIs, a 99.5 Jetta and my current 03 bug with 2 new cheap tires and 2 really old but good tires. Both have tracked really nice and solid down the road. Unlike the partners CR-V which drives like a golf cart.
Yeah I think that's what I'll do. I'm currently just throwing parts at the car, something I never thought I'd do, so might as well replace what's damaged huh..Could be. A friend of mine told me he had a brake line collapse internally and act like a check valve locking up the brake after it was applied hard. With that kind of damage it may be good to replace it anyway.
No, I'm pretty sure it won't show anything, since the temperature from one brake/wheel to another varies randomly to the touch.I haven't been following this but, have you still not spent $25 on an IR gun to rule out if your problem is in a brake or bearing?
I've changed both on the right side with other used ones. They show no sign of sticking, the wheels move freely with the car jacked up, they produce no heat... Parking brake cables are also new, just put on brand new TRW carriers...Have you been able to rule out the calipers? One sticking engaged or disengaged might cause the intermittent aspect.
Well it's a real mystery, but finding such a mechanic is probably harder than solving the problem myself.You needs a really good mechanic, not necessarily TDI specialist, as your issue is standard vehicle stuff. Someone like oilhammer who's diagnosed and fixed hundreds if not thousands of cars. I know you're no rookie, but you have a unique issue. If you can even find such a person, make a list of what you've done.
One of the strong points of a VW is the solid stready feel on the road compared to other cars like my partners Honda CR-V, great car, but drives like a golf cart.
Believe you're at the limit at what we can diagnose on this interweb thang.