My tuned Ibiza(s) 2.0TDI FR ´13

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Soooo. The last couple of days.... weeks.... I spent some more time into my car.
I upgraded the Headbolts to 12.9s. Worked out great.
Finally no more headlift, which I had over the last 4 years.
Sporadic at the beginning and then really bad towards the end.
Seems like the gasket is fine. Used CUAA Bolts, just shorted it.
Now everything stays in place. No more pressurized coolant and temperatures always around 85°C.
Awesome and well needed / deserved.

I also installed the AEM V3 WMI. Its an huge improvement over the V2 system!
Due to the better spraying nozzle. The engine runs soo much smoother and the EGTs are dropping crazy low.
Im only using 500cc and cant reach the 900°C. Even when I do 60-250kph full pulls.
Its just awesome.
I also rerouted the controller to be in the compartment. Before it was hidden in the engine bay. Now its reachable
from the inside. Thats an huge improvement too. So much better.


As always. Not many pictures. But here we go:

http://instagr.am/p/CqG0S2zs0uZ/



http://instagr.am/p/CrqxD5fvT3d/



Do you have the part No. for the bigger MAF
Im using this one: 059906461Q

I'd be interested in knowing more about this topic. Cp4.1 upgrade parts/sources/details? TIA
Sometimes I have some upgrade parts for the fuel system laying around. ;)
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Today, I was on the dyno to check how the whole story came out.
I was expecting the 60mm to have a bit more beans compared to the 56mm...
I mean, all in all the scaling was about right, but I overestimated the OEM compressor wheel.
So it runs out of breath pretty quickly. And the difference between wide open VNT and closed VNT was not that much.
But also shows how efficient this GTD turbine actually works. Bringing a 60mm compressor wheel right to the edge,
with just over 30%. If you compare that to the equivalent GTB "brother", you see positions close to 70%.

I mean, all in all. Its a great outcome. Strong torque and full power, starting from 3500rpm (also where static air mass sets in)
all the way to 4600rpm redline.
As from what I see, the cylinderhead is not restrictive at all.
At those powerlevels I still get more inside the combustion chamber than a stock CFHD engine. Keeping the VE around 0.85.

This power curve is additionally daily floorable. If I do a 50-260kph pull. Im seeing about 920°C at the very end.

The run was measured on an 1 year old 100k dyno. With drag measuring. Cant get more precise than that.
Time for GTD2265VZ now. Already ordered.

 

altz1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Location
Estonia
TDI
A8 4H 4.2TDI, Cayenne 4.2TDI, 6.0TDI
I have one extra oem GTD2263VZK if you need. Almost new.
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Riding that DMF limit all the way to a 500ft-lb @3,000rpm peak is seriously fun looking
Its indeed. When the load is a bit higher on the engine, like 4th+ gear (real world),
it already builds up ~400Nm without any effort and then from this moment on, it just increases,
and honestly. At around 2600rpm is the moment, where you think:
This cant increase any further and then it just smashes you into the seat. Lol.
I mean. 300HP already at 3000rpm is something... I guess not many tuners or builds can achieve.
Even the 3L ones will have a hard time to get there.



I have one extra oem GTD2263VZK if you need
Haha. Thanks for the offer. I was thinking about this unit too.
But there are 2 problems:
a) the base is very expensive
b) 63mm compressor wheel sounds like a great idea, but I feel like, I want to have 65mm to finally end the story of a "too small" turbocharger.
Usually, the 65mm should make me happy.
320-330HP is what 3L engines can do with 60mm. As for now. It looks like im extracting the power with roundabout the same efficiency as the 3L
to have some comparison. And the 3L (N57) brothers can do 400HP somefree with 65mm.
So if things scale for an other 60HP top end, I should maybe reach the 400HP goal with that unit.
I already did some calculations. I will need around 3.2b at 4200rpm to get the required air mass (of ~1100kg/h) into the engine.
6bar map sensor lays already here, together with some selfmade adapters.


I was just thinking how awesome that would be in my daily
Since this is my daily, I will only do things which doesnt hurt the driveability too much.
I life where the ambient pressure is just 918mbar, with lots of hills and valleys.
On top of that: Germany. So smoke even while spooling up, is a no go.
Basically: what will work for me, will work at least 30% better for the rest of the world.
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Today my "new" tranny arrived.
Its from a skoda superb with 140HP CR engine. (Transmission code: NFP)
In theory this car / gearbox has the same ratio like from my ibiza.
So 6th gear at 100kph is around 1600rpm.
But since my ibiza has (obviously) much smaller tires than the Golf platform, this gearbox will shorten my
ratio by about 7,2%. Which doesnt sound much, but will do much.

For instance. The "German standard" (like US with their 1/4m) is 100-200kph measuring.
In this scenario with the DMF I have a huge problem.
Cant start in 3rd gear, because this one only pulls to around 120kph, making the use for it and the shift into 4th totally worthless.
And cant really start in 4th gear, because the DMF doesnt allow for max torque at 2000rpm.. and I dont see the need to kill parts on purpose.
But unfortunately it doesnt stop there... when Im in the 4th gear, I need to shift into 5th gear at around 180kph... the problem here is,
the 5th gear is geared for around 225kph top speed. So its well "overgeared". All in all, the ratio is really really bad for exact this measurement.
Seems like VAG did notice this as well and gifted the "bigger diesels" like the MK6 GTD (and similar) a shorter gearbox, which suits
speeds till around 200kph way better... and guess what? Its pretty much exact 7% difference too.
So in theory I just do a GTD gearbox swap.

With this gearbox its in theory possible to start the 100-200kph measurement in the optimal rpm range in (2800rpm) 4th gear,
shifting at around 168kph into 5th and the 5th pulls to around 215kph. So its still a notch too much, but way better in every aspect.

This gearbox will also get the full metal core, as well as new bearings. Do it all on my own of course and when time has come,
I will send in pictures.




 
Last edited:

lemoncurd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
2013 CJAA GTB2266
would it be possible to swap the gearing from one of the manual 6 speed's into the DSG DQ250?
the DQ250 has really short gearing. i am nearly at 2k RPM at 100kph. almost 3k RPM doing 130kph
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Good question. But the DSGs cost way more than the MT brothers.
I mean.. I can get such a gearbox for less than 150 bucks. Yes. Its real.
Impossible to get a DSG for that. Sooo... Only due to that, wont look into them, even tho its of course a good idea.
But in the end, it needs to be cost efficient...you never know when the next gears say goodbye :D
 

lemoncurd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
2013 CJAA GTB2266
fair enough. when i get closer to doing an AWD swap, i may investigate a manual gear swap into a DSG more thoroughly
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
I installed my new Turbo a few days ago.
To be precise its a GTD2265VZ with 6+6 compressor wheel.
And I finally found the limits of the stock cylinder head now. Took quite some effort, I would say.
The limit is somewhere around 1050kg/h. Which isnt too bad to be honest.
Im also happy that I full filled my (inner) goal to achieve over 4 digits in the airmass flow.

The turbo itself flows godlike, but its pro its also its con. I have to deal with some surge.
Its not the crazy surge, where you have jumping around boost gauge, its more like the... surge you can hear,
but not feel in any way. Also not visible in the boost curve. All you see is some small oscillation in the MAF reading.
At the moment im pushing around 4.05b into the combustion chamber, while still maintaining a VE of 0.87!

I will try to find some solutions to combat the surge. Even tho, this borderline surge will work for a long time,
I just dont like it to hear. If anything, my last step will be camshafts to make the engine flow more.

As for headporting. I dont see a reason to port he cylinderhead at all. With 1050kg/h you can do a lot of stuff.
Wont reach the 400HP with that, but hey. 880kg/h did 340HP on the dyno... soo what could you expect from 1050?
I would say: Enough.

http://instagr.am/p/CuIZQPZNxXV/
 

lemoncurd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
2013 CJAA GTB2266
this is awesome!!

I have to deal with some surge.
Its not the crazy surge, where you have jumping around boost gauge, its more like the... surge you can hear,
but not feel in any way. Also not visible in the boost curve. All you see is some small oscillation in the MAF reading.
i am having a similar problem with my GTB2266 turbo. i am excited to see what you can do with the CJAA engine later on once we get this ball rolling :cool: :cool:
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Today was a bit a different day.
Due to the fact, that I still have the 4Bar map sensor mounted, Im kinda playing with the fire and.. yesterday I nearly paid the price for that.
(Playing with fire = requesting boost near the sensor limit)

Because I had everything laying behind me for at least 4 months, I figured. Today is the day, I will install the 6Bar map sensor.
Took my Boostpipe out, had problems with rusty bolt. Snapped. Wayne. Cableties will hold that pipe. Ha.Ha.Ha.
Enlarged the small 3/4Bar map sensor hole to around 15.0mm, fitted the sensor, connected the adapter cable, I did yesterdays night at 10PM,
flashed file and tested the sensor for correct function. And it did. 4.3bar at 48000rpm.

 

lemoncurd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
2013 CJAA GTB2266
4.3bar, crazy!! any concern for turbo longevity?
i previously thought these GTB/D226X turbo's where only safe for 32psi/2.2bar sustained, otherwise the turbo shaft would snap. is that not true?
 

Redderv

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2023
Location
UK
TDI
Leon FR 2.0tdi 150
I installed my new Turbo a few days ago.
To be precise its a GTD2265VZ with 6+6 compressor wheel.
And I finally found the limits of the stock cylinder head now. Took quite some effort, I would say.
The limit is somewhere around 1050kg/h. Which isnt too bad to be honest.
Im also happy that I full filled my (inner) goal to achieve over 4 digits in the airmass flow.

The turbo itself flows godlike, but its pro its also its con. I have to deal with some surge.
Its not the crazy surge, where you have jumping around boost gauge, its more like the... surge you can hear,
but not feel in any way. Also not visible in the boost curve. All you see is some small oscillation in the MAF reading.
At the moment im pushing around 4.05b into the combustion chamber, while still maintaining a VE of 0.87!

I will try to find some solutions to combat the surge. Even tho, this borderline surge will work for a long time,
I just dont like it to hear. If anything, my last step will be camshafts to make the engine flow more.

As for headporting. I dont see a reason to port he cylinderhead at all. With 1050kg/h you can do a lot of stuff.
Wont reach the 400HP with that, but hey. 880kg/h did 340HP on the dyno... soo what could you expect from 1050?
I would say: Enough.

http://instagr.am/p/CuIZQPZNxXV/
I’ve got a 150 CRMB engine looking to push 300bhp atleast but worried about buying everything and then not making that target due to the head, been advised that it needs porting at around 270 i believe but you’ve made all that power without head porting?? Is your head similar or is it a lot better flowing than mine? I believe mine is the same as the CUNA
 

Redderv

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2023
Location
UK
TDI
Leon FR 2.0tdi 150
I’ve got a 150 CRMB engine looking to push 300bhp atleast but worried about buying everything and then not making that target due to the head, been advised that it needs porting at around 270 i believe but you’ve made all that power without head porting?? Is your head similar or is it a lot better flowing than mine? I believe mine is the same as the CUNA
I’m running a hybrid turbo from Xman for the 184 and dpf/egr deletes and it’s pushing 231bhp and 515nm so far
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
As I mentioned I will combat the surge and yesterday... after waiting like an eon.
The custom made anti-surge housing for my GTD2265VZ 6+6 finally arrived.
All the great custom work was done by MuchBoost of course.

The outcome of this was unknown.
Could have been that I "send" the turbo right away with the first step on the gaspedal. Unknown territory.
But thankfully, everything worked in line and I can finally put the pedal to the metal at low rpms.
I mean, surely. I could have before too, but.. to be honest. If you hear this surge sound all the time.
Its just not that nice and made me to avoid this rpm area in higher gears.
Before at around 3000rpm the surge was intense, and the more the revs climbed, the less loud it got,
till the surge was completely over at around 3800-4000rpm. Like I said. Nothing too insane (besides the initial "first surge" at 3000rpm).

Now with the anti-surge housing I can drive more boost at "low" rpm, more airmass without surging.
Spool, charge temperature, as well as max possible airmas (headlimit) remained the same.
Additionally. My turbo sounds now like a nice and decent jet turbine.
Its really impressive for me, what little things can do.

In the meantime, I finally implemented torque by gear on my ecu. Not the ordinary torque by gear, since this
is unfortunately not an option on my ECU, but with a bit of mathematical formulas I could redesign other maps to work like this.
Now my wheelspin in 1st and 2nd (and even 3rd) is limited. Surely, it doesnt look so spectacular anymore, but it saves my tires and
at the end, its the quicker acceleration.

Of course thats just talking, so here we go. A comparison. Before and after with the same turbo, just different housings.
You can see how the airflow stalls, resumes, stalls, resumes and oscillates for some rpm, till it settles down.
On the other hand, with the anti surge, you can see one surge (which you cant even really hear), and from there on,
it just stays nice and smoothly. Im really happy with the outcome. Feels like a new car / turbo to me.




 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
will muchboost now be selling such turbo with the new housing? :cool: :cool:
Yes definitely. Already available to choose.


Last week I did a small change to give my car for a better feel.
In the last 2000km I felt the engine movement became larger and also shifting gears, as well as just lifting off and such became
more jerky... at some point I wasnt sure if I forgot how to drive.
So I thought this might be a good opportunity to switch out the old beaten stock engine mounts for vibra technic ones.
Any my lord, this changed the behavior of the car upside down!
Shifts are now as precise as it gets, lifting off (or load changes) arent jerky anymore and I can finally enjoy my car, like Ive never experienced before!
Additionally.. the wheelspin feels super clean. In general the ibiza is very "good" with wheelspin, but with the vibra technics engine mounts,
its hard to differ between wheelspin and clutch slip now. Not that I had clutch slip (I hope), but at one pull I wasnt sure if its clutch slip or wheel spin.
Its insane. I dont want to do advertisement here, but the way those mounts changed the drivetrain is just unbelievable for me.



 

lemoncurd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
2013 CJAA GTB2266
Yes definitely. Already available to choose.


Last week I did a small change to give my car for a better feel.
In the last 2000km I felt the engine movement became larger and also shifting gears, as well as just lifting off and such became
more jerky... at some point I wasnt sure if I forgot how to drive.
So I thought this might be a good opportunity to switch out the old beaten stock engine mounts for vibra technic ones.
Any my lord, this changed the behavior of the car upside down!
Shifts are now as precise as it gets, lifting off (or load changes) arent jerky anymore and I can finally enjoy my car, like Ive never experienced before!
Additionally.. the wheelspin feels super clean. In general the ibiza is very "good" with wheelspin, but with the vibra technics engine mounts,
its hard to differ between wheelspin and clutch slip now. Not that I had clutch slip (I hope), but at one pull I wasnt sure if its clutch slip or wheel spin.
Its insane. I dont want to do advertisement here, but the way those mounts changed the drivetrain is just unbelievable for me.
great to hear!! how is the vibrations / feel with those mounts?
is the car still road trip-able or would the vibrations rattle your teeth out?
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Soooo. It has been a while, my car was sitting around over the winter, now its getting warmer and everything is in progress so far.
My buddy in greece on the other hand finally finished his car, or rather said the mechanic did.
He "pulled" the trigger and we basically pushed the GTD2265VZ as far as the cylinderhead allowed. Still not the limit of the turbo yet.
Just a shame he has the 7+7 gen II (or how I wanna call it: gen trash) mounted. It should be more pressure stable, but in the end,
it turned out to be even less pressure stable. .. well. Even when the raw technical aspect is correct, its still more important who designed the
compressor wheel. Anyway.

We were still able to get a decent amount of airmass thru his engine and we put down a 100-200 time of 8.9s.
As for my understandings, this should be the fastest daily driveable 2.0TDI common rail to drive around the world.
Not to mention the cylinderhead, as well as the camsafts and connecting rods are still stock at this point.
The time was also made with pure Diesel. No methanol involved.
Due to the "bad" compressor design... and as you can hear surge in the video, we had to shift he operating rpm well above
the comfort zone.
The rpm limiter kicks in at 5630rpm and to reach the 200kph the engine has to rev at least 5520rpm.
At this rpm the diesel efficiency already drops off the cliff (dont forget, stock camshafts and cylinderhead!) and yet,
we still managed to get under 9s, which is super impressive in my eyes.
With a 6+6 Turbo the time could have been easily half a second faster.

We topped it off with torque by gear and a launch control which is similar to rally cars. So the rpm goes up to make the boost
build up more faster, then it comes down and while making the most insane and deafening noises at the exhaust you could ever hear from a diesel.
Spitting a good amount of fire, while holding the boost pressure comfortable at 3bar.

Of course his project wont stop here.
As we want to push further.




As for my car. Everything is in preparation and I will continue to install some more mods in the next following weeks.
Lets see how they turn out. Since my ibiza is 3 door and a good 80kg lighter due to that, I expect to see very low 8s.
 

Kaziff

Active member
Joined
Aug 23, 2022
Location
PORTUGAL
TDI
2.0 TDI - GTD 170HP - CFGB
Hey guys,

I want to show you my Ibiza and also my results with it.
The way I tune might seem minimalistic or the parts I use for it seem to be too "tiny"
or not enough in the most peoples view.

Currently, running my car with a >GTD1756VRK< from >Muchboost< for the last couple of years now (about 3-4).
Car is running fine. Im able to get about 730kg/h of airmass into the engine. With a peakpressure of about
2.6-2.8b. The VE of the engine (volumetric efficiency) while doing so is about 0.85 (stock is 0.84 | EA288 stock is about 0.8).
Im running the car with an IC which has a net measure of 600x300x100. So its indeed a large one for sure.
But the colder, the better.

4Bar Map, 2700Bar sensor, 2.75" Exhaust, 2.5" Downpipe and upgrade injectors (from CUNA). Leading to about 305HP.
With the latest upgrade part for the HPFP, I was able to push it to about 325HP with a soft 0.5L/m WMI mix,
I was able to push it to 335HP with 715Nm of torque.

My car is doing the 100-200 in 11.06s. Considering my 0.7s shift time, this is a pretty good result (sorry its 4th gearbox).

But ever since 325HP are strong numbers for a CP4.1. At some point you reach the limit of the components.
So you have to move on with different parts. But the goal is always: to use the parts with the capabilities they are build for.
And the Stock CP4.1 is able to push out about 284-305HP (depending on age and wear, as well as cetan in diesel).
With a bigger plunger, you can get it to about 325HP. So an increase of about 10%.

My greek friend, was able to pull of a (corrected) time of 10.77s 100-200 with the complete stock CP4.1 pump.
No upgrade part or 2700Bar sensor. Just 2200Bar at this point.
The only advantage he has is, due to his >GTD2060<, he can run an 1L/m 50/50wmi mixture.
His car produced on raw diesel 284HP straight from 3000-4600rpm (bet you never saw such a powerrange) and 640Nm of torque on the dyno.


But Im not stopping here. Soon I will change the turbo to an >GTD2060< as well, >CP3 R90 from MAC< and a new >downpipe from TRW< with 2.75" diameter.
My Goal is to get to about 380HP on raw diesel and 400HP with water methanol.
Torquewise: I will leave it there (~700Nm), because this seems to be enough for the stock engine internals.
Its very likely, that I will need cams for that goal. But Like I mentioned before. Those will come, when I see the need for it.
But then with springs, bolts and compression reduction as well as porting.

I will see where the journey ends leads to. Im aware that the block can go rip, but since Im in germany,
I can get an used engine for cheap, so I dont see the need to reinforce it. If it dies, it dies. (I was expecting it at the 300HP mark).


I hope you enjoy the upcomming journey and then we will see, at which figures we will end up at.


Here you have some media included. Of course not everything. But a bit.








Can I ask the size of your intercooler pipes?
63.5 millimeters (2.5") ?
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
Can I ask the size of your intercooler pipes?
63.5 millimeters (2.5") ?
I think it should be around there. Its basically stock, but the ibiza got slightly larger ones than the "normal" golfs and similar.
Big pain if you want to buy a used replacement, as the 2.0TDI in the ibiza was kinda rare!
 

Kaziff

Active member
Joined
Aug 23, 2022
Location
PORTUGAL
TDI
2.0 TDI - GTD 170HP - CFGB
Today I finalized my CP3 R90 swap. Including the timing belt.
That were nasty 3 days, because we had always some rain, so I couldnt work and always had to stop for a few
minutes, before I was able to continue.
But everything on this kit fits nicely. As you would expect. The support from Mac is also very neat.
Always there for questions, if you have any. So big thanks to >him< for his kindness and help!

I decided to let the pump run with my "CP4 adjustment" and basically do nothing to the software, but adding a slight touch of torque.
As for my readings, the pump should be a straight fit.
I was expecting the pressure regulate valve to adapt over the next few miles, because the flow of the CP3 is so much more,
therefore the PCV has to open up way more than before.
After the engine was warm, I did the first slight pull where the requested rail pressure started to increase to 2400bars (thats what I wanna drive),
of course there was an overshoot and I saw the sensorlimit of 2700Bars. I lifted of immediately and decided to let things go on
slowly. (It would have triggered limp if I had been on the gas for a few more moments, but why tho?)
To give the ECU a bit more time to adapt from a running edge CP4.1 to a pretty chilled CP3.
After about 15km it seemed like the PCV adapted to the CP3 and everything is fine.
So I did the first pull it was nice, but with a lots of caution and ...directly after... nothing.
No power. After a few seconds the power came back... and I was like? TF is going on here.
I repeated it a bit and there were always moments, where the ECU cutted the fuel completely.
So I started to look around in my smartphone app for "faulty" sensors, that could cause momentum reduction.
As it turned out, the "basic" sensors (which I have always on screen), dont seem to be the issue Im looking for.

After a few more (thrilling) moments of what could it be, thoughts, I came up with the idea, that it might be
the fuel temp. Due to my CP4 programming the metering unit starts to open up pretty early and not far after completely.
Making the pump the best flow and stable rail pressure it could get. But if you have a pretty much oversized pump,
this might be a bad idea, because most of the pressurized fuel gets back to the return line.
And pressure means heat. So I took my laptop, started VCDS and looked after the fuel temp and what I saw,
was 90°C-95°C peak, which confirmed my guess. I did some testings and saw, that the fuel temp map will probably cut my power.

I came home, adjusted the metering unit to be more closed.
Even more than stock (best for efficiency and fuel temp,
would be slightly more than the pump needs). Flashed it and tried again. It worked and the fuel temp stayed
between 37-45°C. Which is a good and nice temp.

All in all the car works great now with the CP3. Of course I dont have any power benefits. Maybe slight. But not measurable for me at the moment.
Because the CP4.1 and the GTD1756VRK were a perfect fit together, basically running together happily on the edge.

In the next following days I will put in my GTD2060VZ. Im waiting for my new downpipe... seems like its stuck in shipping.
But after it will arrive, things will go further and I will see where we will end up at.

Some expressions:








Can I ask wich Timing belt upgrade or kit you installed?
Really nice post!
 

Kaziff

Active member
Joined
Aug 23, 2022
Location
PORTUGAL
TDI
2.0 TDI - GTD 170HP - CFGB
Soooo. The last couple of days.... weeks.... I spent some more time into my car.
I upgraded the Headbolts to 12.9s. Worked out great.
Finally no more headlift, which I had over the last 4 years.
Sporadic at the beginning and then really bad towards the end.
Seems like the gasket is fine. Used CUAA Bolts, just shorted it.
Now everything stays in place. No more pressurized coolant and temperatures always around 85°C.
Awesome and well needed / deserved.

I also installed the AEM V3 WMI. Its an huge improvement over the V2 system!
Due to the better spraying nozzle. The engine runs soo much smoother and the EGTs are dropping crazy low.
Im only using 500cc and cant reach the 900°C. Even when I do 60-250kph full pulls.
Its just awesome.
I also rerouted the controller to be in the compartment. Before it was hidden in the engine bay. Now its reachable
from the inside. Thats an huge improvement too. So much better.


As always. Not many pictures. But here we go:

http://instagr.am/p/CqG0S2zs0uZ/



http://instagr.am/p/CrqxD5fvT3d/




Im using this one: 059906461Q


Sometimes I have some upgrade parts for the fuel system laying around. ;)

"Used CUAA Bolts, just shorted it. "

Could you give me the ref of the HEADBOLTS you used? I dont find anything for this engines!
is it WHT007105 ?

I dont wanna get an head lift
THANK YOU!
 
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TDIMeister

Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
Joined
May 1, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
TDI
500cc WMI per what - hour? Minute? If it's half a litre a minute, that's way too much, hence your very low EGTs. Just think about the flow rate in relation to injected Diesel quantity. The combustion efficiency also likely goes down the toilet and combustion duration will lengthen, neither of which are good for fuel conversion efficiency and emissions (I know - two of the very things hotrodders care least about). You need only about 1/4 to 1/2 of that, if not less. The ideal is not to get EGT as low a possible but to inject the minimum amount to target within a safe range of EGT to protect the turbocharger, say about 750 degrees C.
 

Xtremefunky

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2022
Location
Germany
TDI
EA189, EA896G2, EA288
The combustion efficiency also likely goes down the toilet
Wrong. Tested enough.

You need only about 1/4 to 1/2 of that, if not less.
Wrong too.

Sorry, please dont bash into a thread with "knowledge" when experience here is completely different.

Thanks for your suggestio and all, but I didnt ask for help, nor suggestions.
CR with multiple injections and relatively low compression changes a lot of things.
You may know a lot about the engines you worked on and maybe you also know how things work,
if you keep everything OEM like in place.
But I dont do that, hence the reason my results "may" differ heavily for yours.

You can trust me, that I used the last years with the WMI system on my engine to know how it works and
what not and what to do in order to make it work (better).

To give your "suggestion" even more downrate. 1000cc of pure H2O will still increase the torque significant and
a touch in power over not having it. (I would use it, if I had more airmass btw.)
Before you put up more arguments, maybe let that sink in for a while and think about that and what you want(ed) to say.

Like I said, thanks for your input nobody asked, but maybe dont bash into a thread of a guy who ownes the car for over a decade (12 years),
worked and experimented as long on it for the same amount of time and expect to spit something valueable on the table, "the guy" could have
discovered on his own in the past 12 years. Dont you think? Thats a bit presumptuous imho.
 
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