My TDI got hit last weekend, and I need help

[Abacus]

I'm not up on my A4 body parts compatibility, but U-Pick-It may have something and is also in Arizona. I'm going there this weekend.

 

[05MK4TDI]

But why would you just accept $5000 if you could get more? He’s got the right idea here.
I say never accept their first offer, just like when selling a car (or anything for that matter), the other party will almost always lowball you.

Yes, most definitely. i want to have enough to fix it

 

[05MK4TDI]

Did they offer you a buy-it-back price? Don't know that necessarily results in a salvage title. Be vigilant, document, use your agent for good advice.
Don't know of course, but I can't imagine it has damage to the frame/suspension. Body panels and stuff can be had at salvage or car-part.com.

They will give me $4,200, I get to keep the car, and it will have a salvage title that needs to be inspected to earn a rebuilt title so i can re-register it was their first offer.

 

[05MK4TDI]

tell them you want a buy back price with out a salvage title.

Is that even possible???? I thought since it was a total loss, a buy back will result in a salvage title until rebuilt?

 

[05MK4TDI]

1200

wow, that's a lot, thank you. i wasn't trying to pity anyone about my car I just needed help with the process, and advice from people who know way more about mk4s, and their worth than me. obviously, I'm going to think it's the best thing to ever grace the face of the earth because it was my first car, and i dumped all the money I had into it. of course, I'm going to want to keep it. I'm sorry about your mk4 that got crunched by the suburban. I'm super lucky it wasn't worse than it was. I think about the other possibilities that could have ended this car, or even worse ended my, or someone elses life, and im Extremely thankful for that. the situation is so frustrating simply because the fact that my car has SO LITTLE DAMAGE and it got totaled out is really frustrating. like why cant they just write me a check for the parts and call it a day??? they estimated 1200 in parts for repairs, and 2800 to have a shop do it. I haven't written back to them but im going to do it myself, which might help me. taking the salvage title (with all registration costs taken into consideration) is like my "last resort" and ill do it just to get it back on the road.

(BTW that jeep i was talking about is an aboslute pig and needs hopes and dreams to get started every morning. i got my first job a while ago and saved every penny (seriously every penny i had) JUST so i could buy a car. that's why they mean a lot to me... do I have an addiction?? Help?? lol, all jokes aside, I'm not trying to say it was "all that i had" i meant that as in i had all of my money invested in this car so i can fulfil that "itch" to modify, work on, and drive the baddest turbo diesel around.)

 

[vwishndaetr]

Might be too late for this and maybe it was covered elsewhere in the thread, but I think it should be stressed that almost all cars today are selling well above MSRP, and that your options are far more limited today than they were 2 years ago.

Not sure if insurance companies have adjusted to today's climate, but I'd be bringing that up so that you are either compensated more to reflect today's conditions, or that they fix the car considering how low inventory is today.

Aside from the whole aspect of you buying it back, your options are 1) ordering something not on the lot and waiting 6+ months for it to show up, or 2) buying something on the lot and paying $10k over MSRP. I would show them examples of cars selling in your area well over MSRP - might incline them to up their initial payment... Just my $.02.

 

[05MK4TDI]

Might be too late for this and maybe it was covered elsewhere in the thread, but I think it should be stressed that almost all cars today are selling well above MSRP, and that your options are far more limited today than they were 2 years ago.

Not sure if insurance companies have adjusted to today's climate, but I'd be bringing that up so that you are either compensated more to reflect today's conditions, or that they fix the car considering how low inventory is today.

Aside from the whole aspect of you buying it back, your options are 1) ordering something not on the lot and waiting 6+ months for it to show up, or 2) buying something on the lot and paying $10k over MSRP. I would show them examples of cars selling in your area well over MSRP - might incline them to up their initial payment... Just my $.02.

YES. i love your thinking, i will definitely write up a good long letter back to give them a deeper perspective of the market down here (the insurance company is located in the rustbelt so im not sure if they took the rust free AZ vehicles into consideration.) thank you for that tip man.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I think $5K for that car is an excellent offer and clearly higher than it would have been 2 years ago. If you can buy it back and have it fixed for under $3K (or do it yourself for less still) then you're coming out OK. Keep in mind that damage you see may not be all the damage there is, but still...

 

[05MK4TDI]

I think $5K for that car is an excellent offer and clearly higher than it would have been 2 years ago. If you can buy it back and have it fixed for under $3K (or do it yourself for less still) then you're coming out OK. Keep in mind that damage you see may not be all the damage there is, but still...

Im going to counter their offer still, but i would be extremely happy with $4,200 and a salvage title. repairs costing ~1k and salvage title registration/ inspection being a few hundred, i think that extra couple of bucks could help me straighten out my suspension and fund my bushing refresh up front. Since im keeping the car forever, im fine with it having a salvage title.

 

[Hyde7278]

take pictures of it in the crashed condition and when you take it apart and after you fix it, that way you have proof of what was wrong with it and wat was done to repair it just incase you ever sell it

 

[Zak99b5]

take pictures of it in the crashed condition and when you take it apart and after you fix it, that way you have proof of what was wrong with it and wat was done to repair it just incase you ever sell it

Excellent advice.

 

[Abacus]

It doesn't take much to total a car with prices today. My roof rack blew off my car (new Thule rack, properly tightened, not overloaded but over 50 mph headwinds) at the beginning of the move west and they wanted to total it due to the cost of repair. I could have fixed it for $600 in parts (I checked since I didn't want a salvage title). I argued with them and they 'found an error' after a month of back and forth arguing. They claimed the criteria for totaling a car in Arizona is 70% of its value whereas Maine is 80%, and while it was over the 70%, it was under the 80%. Since it was still registered in Maine at the time, they used the wrong criteria initially. I call BS, but whatever. After years of paying outrageous insurance premiums, I just wanted the car fixed.

This was considered 'totaled', despite just being cosmetic. I kept driving the car until it was finally repaired a few months later, I just put some clear tape over the antenna and rear light. I am glad I argued with them and didn't settle since my car looks like new again.

 

[pkhoury]

Is that even possible???? I thought since it was a total loss, a buy back will result in a salvage title until rebuilt?

This is why I love Texas. Only vehicle I've ever been "required" to get a salvage title for - I lost the title, and it'll never be back on the road again, anyways. My chickens now lay eggs in it, and I still raid it for occasional wiring/parts. Everything else - for Texas anyways, I think the rule is that as long as the damage is under the ACV, you're good.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Is the damage bad enough that it HAS to be fixed to pass a rebuilt inspection? If the doors and hood still function, maybe you can still pass, but continue driving it ugly, while you take your time finding and replacing parts.

 

[05MK4TDI]

Is the damage bad enough that it HAS to be fixed to pass a rebuilt inspection? If the doors and hood still function, maybe you can still pass, but continue driving it ugly, while you take your time finding and replacing parts.

I'm going to give the inspection place (DMV I believe) a call today and figure out what actually needs to be repaired for it to pass. I'm ASSUMING that as long as the body panels don't fall off and can potentially hurt someone on the road, it will be fine for now. I got a passenger fender yesterday off of a 2003 vr6 GLI (blue) for 35 bucks. Couldn't find a GLS bumper with chrome trim for the life of me, and I'm feeling like it's going to take a lot of searching to source one.

 

[05MK4TDI]

new Thule rack, properly tightened, not overloaded but over 50 mph headwinds) at the beginning of the move west and they wanted to total it due to the cost of repair. I could have fixed it for $600 in parts (I checked since I didn't want a salvage title). I argued with them and they 'found an error' after a month of back and forth arguing. They claimed the criteria for totaling a car in Arizona is 70% of its value whereas Maine is 80%, and while it was over the 70%, it was under the 80%. Since it was still registered in Maine at the time, they used the wrong criteria initially. I call BS, but whatever. After years of paying outrageous insurance premiums, I just wanted the car fixed.

This was considered 'totaled', despite just being cosmetic. I kept driving the car until it was finally repaired a few months later, I just put some clear tape over the antenna and rear light. I am glad I argued with them and didn't settle since my car looks like new again.

wow, dude. I bought a Thule Traverse 480R like 2 months ago and I know the lengths they go through to develop a strong clamp-down system for their racks. That's really sad to hear. I'm glad you were able to fight the insurance until you got exactly what you wanted.

 

[Abacus]

wow, dude. I bought a Thule Traverse 480R like 2 months ago and I know the lengths they go through to develop a strong clamp-down system for their racks. That's really sad to hear. I'm glad you were able to fight the insurance until you got exactly what you wanted.

Just be aware of their fine print, which says their clamp racks are only good to 80 Mph. I was doing 65 mph but there were 50 mph headwinds into which I was driving, which made it effectively 115 mph, which is outside their warranty range. Mine was the 480 fit kit since I already had the cross bars and bike racks. The insurance company initially said they would not cover the rack because it didn’t attach to rails, but I argued the difference and got them to cover it. They prorated it and it at least got me another $700, which wasn’t what I paid for them but at least it was something. They said they would not cover the bikes, that they would have to come from my homeowners (of which we no longer owned a home).

Luckily the titanium bike hit first and the carbon bike was in the middle, with the aluminum on the other side. They were cabled together because I didn't want them stolen when we stopped at night. There was no damage other than some scrapes on the handlebars and rear rack, and I think the 5” tires helped save them. I hauled them out of the middle of the highway before they were hit, and there was a lot of traffic.

 

[05MK4TDI]

that they would have to come from my homeowners (of which we no longer owned a home).

wow, this whole situation just doesn't get any better, holy smokes. This whole story reminds me of those late-night infomercials when they say "but wait! there's more" haha. I know those bikes you had aren't cheap, I'm glad they were saved from getting smacked by a car. as far as my situation goes, I declined their first offer and asked them to adjust the value of my car. they initially said that the interior, exterior, and the drivetrain were in "fair condition".... which is weird because nobody came out to look at it, nor did I submit pictures or statements stating that it was fair. I'm assuming they just want this claim closed up, so they can move on. I said everything was in very good condition considering the age, and I gave them a list and nice email of parts and receipts of everything I've done to the car

 

[Abacus]

Yes, I was initially worried about the bikes because they cost about $10k combined. It was such a mess for too long and not only did we drop the insurance company (Ohio Mutual), our insurance carrier did as well. They attached a memo saying that because we had a claim, which we'd never had before, we were 'high risk' despite it not being our fault. Insurance is such a racket. Good luck with yours.

 

[05MK4TDI]

Insurance is such a racket.

oh, definitely. It's all a big learning experience.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Insurance is such a racket. Good luck with yours.

I would say it is and it isn't. If the OP had no insurnace he might not be in a great place. Sounds like he's going to keep his car, be able to fix it himself, and have money left over. That doesn't sound like a racket to me.

I think the key with insurance is to only insure what you have to. I don't have collision or theft insurance on my older cars. If something happens to one of them then I can either decide to fix or scrap it (or part it out). But I don't want to take that big a financial hit on my '15 GSW or the BMW. And I have glass coverage on all my cars, because windshields get broken here.

 

[AGTDI]

Seriously though people - if y'all value your TDIs like me (and the OP), get aftermarket parts endorsement on you OWN policy.

Very good advice.
IMHO, my wagon is irreplaceable.

 

[pkhoury]

Very good advice.
IMHO, my wagon is irreplaceable.

So with that being the case, get an aftermarket parts endorsement. I know Farmers and Progressive do it, and I'm pretty sure State Farm might as well. I know for a fact that sh!tty insurance companies like Esurance and Geico (from experience) don't have that coverage. They're cheap for a reason.

And my Golf is kinda in the same boat. I really don't want to have to build that car up again.

 

[Drewser]

Mesa AZ chiming in. We got $3600 for ours a year ago then bought it back for $500. Just used it as parts to rebuild another, non-salvage title Jetta. However, their first offer was $2300. I sent them comps to get price up. Then on top of the $3600, I sent them receipts for the last 2 years of work. They wouldn't reimburse for labor but they added up the parts costs for last 2 years and gave me another $1000. I was happy then. Car had 205k miles on it. Now it's drivetrain and a bunch of other stuff is living in a $500 Jetta wagon I bought with a blown engine. Better car, and I made money on the deal.

 

[AGTDI]

That's a feel good story.

Why didn't you just go get an 8 year loan on a new Audi though?

 

[Drewser]

That's a feel good story.

Why didn't you just go get an 8 year loan on a new Audi though?

I know, right? Who doesn't want an extra mortgage payment driving down the road?

 

[gforce1108]

I've mentioned it before... I recently moved two vehicles over to a hagerty specialty policy and will be putting my 04 Jetta on it when it goes back on the road. I have a ton of money into it, but "book" as we've seen, is crap. They'll insure it for whatever I want. Can't be a daily driver, but they do encourage you to use the car. You're not limited to shows, etc.

 

[Drewser]

I've mentioned it before... I recently moved two vehicles over to a hagerty specialty policy and will be putting my 04 Jetta on it when it goes back on the road. I have a ton of money into it, but "book" as we've seen, is crap. They'll insure it for whatever I want. Can't be a daily driver, but they do encourage you to use the car. You're not limited to shows, etc.

They used to require it be garaged but now don't. You are limited on miles though.

 

[gforce1108]

They used to require it be garaged but now don't. You are limited on miles though.

There is nothing specific written in my policy. I'll ask (my neighbor is a top agent on their board of directors). This is what I saw online:
"Mileage of 3,500 or less is generally consistent with operating vehicles that have collectible value. Mileage up to 7,500 may be considered."
I have averaged about 2500 miles a year on my SLK the last 3 or 4 years.

 

[Drewser]

There is nothing specific written in my policy. I'll ask (my neighbor is a top agent on their board of directors). This is what I saw online:
"Mileage of 3,500 or less is generally consistent with operating vehicles that have collectible value. Mileage up to 7,500 may be considered."
I have averaged about 2500 miles a year on my SLK the last 3 or 4 years.

That's pretty low miles. Another perk in AZ is that cars with classic car insurance don't need to pass emissions. My 90 grand wagoneer would never make it otherwise.