My Porcelain Blue '98 Jetta Resto/Mods Thread

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
1998 Jetta TDI, Porclain Blue
5 speed Manual

Brief History of the Car:

My Grandma helped me purchase Ole Blue in 2010 as my first car before heading back to college for the fall. My dad found the car on ebay after doing a bunch of research to see what was the most efficient, powerful, cost effective car at the time. Price was $3000 and change.

We had dreams of making our own bio-diesel to run the car (i'll still do when I get a proper workshop). 40+mpg with the torque of a diesel sounded pretty good!

He drove the car all the way from it's origin in Florida to New Mexico (probably saving it from a rusty fate). I have a cousin in florida and he was helping remodel their home at the time. He recorded the gas mileage on the trip and was getting numbers in the high 40s and low 50s.

Car had limp mode right off the bat but was pretty easily fixed with some new vacuum lines to the ECU.

Here is the first picture I took of the car in 2010 (Looks brand new!).I think it had around 140k miles on it, however I misplaced the title, so I don't know the exact number. (I'm sure it will show up at some point - probably buried in the glove box).




I commuted from college in Las Cruces to my Grandma's in Silver City NM for about a year and half. I ran 100% biodiesel in the car quite a few times with no issues.

... until I got sick of school. I dropped out and went back to work. Drove the car all the way to alaska to do some seasonal work that year and work off some debts I had acrewed.






So, the car drove all the way from Florida to Alaska. Someday I plan to visit my cousin in Florida so I can say it's been to Alaska and back!

Insects and Airbags

About 2015, I wrecked the car by driving off the road, hit a dip and crumpled my front wheel while damaging the frame and triggering the airbags. This happened for a pretty stupid reason. There was a large insect on my shoulder that distracted me long enough to run the car off the narrow shoulders. I was still a relatively new driver and I'm still upset at myself for doing this to the car.

The car spent a week in a tiny town near where I had wrecked it. Mechanic did a decent job piecing things back together well enough to drive it home. Had the frame re-bent back as best as they could get it

Puddles and Engine Damage

About 2018 I drove the car too fast through a flooded road. Sucked water into the airbox and stalled the engine. Stupidly, I restarted it and drove it home. Took it to a mechanic the next day and they said I had damaged one of my injector nozzles. Without knowing much about power mods I swapped out all the nozzles with something bigger and without getting them properly calibrated. The car ran really rough for about a year before I got a proper set of calibrated nozzles and a kerma tune.

I tested compression not too long ago, and cylinder three definitely shows a variation of around 80psi (all others are around 490psi), so there is definitely damage. Engine rebuild will happen in 2023.

This is Now "My Work Truck"




I pack the car to the gills with tools for interior remodeling. I primarily install flooring and trim, refinish hardwood floors, and paint.


Car has over 214k miles on it now, but I hear this means it's "just getting broken in"




What have I done to the car so far? (besides causing damage)

Aside from countless normal repairs and maintenance (which include all the vacuum lines, new N75, two timing belt changes, alternator, and new coolant globe), the modifications I would like to write home about are the following:

Tinted Windows
I had all the windows custom tinted when I was living in Las Cruces. Very hot climate there. Not legal in some states.

New Speakers and Head Unit
Basic plug and play swap of the head unit and all the speakers. It was the most bang for my buck in terms of sound quality. Speakers are lower-end Rockford fosgate brand. I listen to a lot of music and this was an important upgrade. Speaker still sound pretty good despite not having a separate amp or subs.

New Suspension
All new suspension and a total front end rebuild (cv axles, control arms, bushings, ball joints, tie rods, the works!). I'm using Bilstein B6 struts with b4 Passat wagon springs front and rear. This gives me a slight lift in the rear. It's a robust and tight suspension which is good for carrying a lot of weight as I typically do.





SBC Stage 2 Endurance Clutch - I installed this clutch before a long trip to california and back. Probably had more life in the stock clutch but seemed a bit weak to me. Stage 2 is good up to 350ft lbs of torque, which is plenty for now. I know I will have to swap in a stage 3 if I ever get to 200hp.

PD150 Intake Manifold, Straight Pipe with EGR Delete - kind of miss slightly faster warmup times but I think the tradeoff is worth it.

Hybrid Turbo
I have the K03 Hybrid Turbo from Kerma TDI. I thought this was the best turbo available for the car until I did further research. Will switch to a VNT at a later date as money allows. Will probably purchase a new turbo and swap out the hybrid, then list the hybrid on ebay.

"Hotswapped" Nozzles
I have bosio 1019 nozzles from Kerma

Custom Tuning
I'm working with a friend to develop a tailored tune for the car that is both efficient and powerful. Kerma's out of the box tune just didn't work well for the car and I had issues communicating with them to get it fixed.

I bought my own GQ 4x4 usb programmer to quickly swap tunes with my programmer friend based on VCDS logs that I send him.

O2J Shifter Swap with Diesel Geek Short Shifter

I really can't recommend this mod enough! Shifter feels amazing to me after getting used to the difference. It's a relatively straightforward install but takes some know how and patience.



New Lighting

Again, this is something I wish I had done many many years ago. I'm using German made e-code In-Pro brand projectors with dual H7 LEDs. I also have LEDs for fogs and turn signals. VERY happy with the results as the lighting is about 10,000% better than stock. The projectors do a great job of controlling the super bright LED light output.



Where Do I go From Here (planned mods)?
I have no intention to get another vehicle. The ONLY thing the Jetta doesn't have that I would want is 4wheel drive. It's more powerful than most vehicles its size, even most small trucks. I will keep the car running for as long as I possibly can. I've joked that this was my first car and will be my last. I love it that much. <3<3<3

My philosophy with the car has been to fix what's broken and get superior parts if possible or available. I will continue to use that philosophy moving forward. My logic basicaly is that many of these OEM parts are a bit weak. Either brittle plastic, or just poorly designed or least not made for what I tend to use the vehicle for. If I'm going to spend the money on something, it might was well be new and it might as well be better than stock.

That said, there's no reason to throw money at something that is working well enough. It's why I've held off on some of the more extreme power mods, or some of the more expensive luxury things like amplifiers and high end speakers.

I would like to maintain as much of a stock look at possible. I view this project more as a restoration. I don't particular want to draw attention to the car, especially since I tend to store thousands of dollars worth of tools inside of it.

This is a utilitarian vehicle. Like I've said I use it as my "work truck" and will continue to do so. It's a powerful car, efficient for commuting to the jobsite and I like driving it.

So I will list some of the things I plan to do with the car in order of priority.

To do list for 2023
New Grille that actually fits - yeah, my chinese plastic grille is held on by one zip tie currently.

REBUILD HEAD - This has moved up on the priority list. I've been getting abysmal mpg, 30-40ish. One cylinder is about 80psi off from the others so I definitely have an issue. I will be doing a stage 2 rebuild with ported head, pistons and rods, stage 2 cam and lifters etc... this is big money so it may be a month or two until i can make it happen.

Reset Driver's Airbag - The car has been without functioning aribags ever since I popped them. I have a new one seated in the steering wheel and I replaced the passenger one with a glovebox. When the airbags popped it melted the wiring harness for the airbag, so that needs to be replaced.

Fix Steering wheel Horn - Car has no horn really because I have to press what's remaining of the buttons in a very particular way to get them to make noise. When the airbags went off, the horn buttons went with them. It would be great to have a functioning horn.

Install Custom Roof Rack - I want a detachable but extremely sturdy custom built roofrack for carrying tools and materials to and from worksites. The mounting points will be directly bolted through the roof and through a reinforced steel plate. The rack will be flat and allow me to clip in my Milwaukee packout toolboxes. rack will have extendable arms to help carry long pieces of trim.

Get a small trailer (maybe even covered), maybe dual axles with its own brakes, not sure. I have a lot of tools and some jobs require me to make multiple trips. I'm also currently unable to do dump runs and have to hire that out. No, I'm still not interested in another vehicle!

Replace rear lights with LEDs

Better Security
There are systems you can add to a car to get a bit better theft protection. Due the fact I tend to store a lot of tools in the car and the fact I am putting more and more money into the car itself, I think protecting my investments is a priority.

15in steel wheels and all terrain tires - I've done research into this already. I'm thinking 7in width basset DOT steel racing wheels with an appropriate set of tires for rough dirt roads and mud, however I may opt for some regular stock looking wheels instead. Not sure yet. Main thing I'm after here is functionality and performance. I have traction issues with my current tires. 15in wheels will give me more tire options and allow me to fit a big brake kit eventually.

Rust proof bottomside and install steel skid plate - generally, I'd like to mud proof the car as much as possible and especially seal up the engine bay. I'd like to coat the entire bottom of the car in rustoleum if I can. More research to do here for sure. Steel skid plates aren't available anymore for the car so I will have to get it fabricated someplace. Replace plastic fenders with metal would be nice. Some kind of discreet snorkel might be cool too so I never have to worry about water getting into the engine again.


"Soon"

Fix Slow AC leak. I have to recharge the AC every year which means I have slow refrigerant leak somewhere. So far nobody has been able to find it.

Rebuild Exhaust - turbo back 2.5in downpipe, magnaflow cat?, resonator? I know my exhaust is stock and likely full of soot. It should be replaced at some point.

Total paint job. Car is starting to rust in some places and the exterior really has taken a beating from the sun, from my various accidents, etc. Same color of course, but I may do a few little extra details. By the time I can afford a paint job, I'm sure it will REALLY need it.

LET THERE BE MUSIC I've always wanted a kitted out speaker system with serious amps and subs. I'll probably get an extra set of mids, and set of roof mounted tweeters. I'd like to have a really dynamic system where quality of sound is a priority. Not interested in thumping at 3am, just want brilliant impressive sound.

Tear dash apart and fix blend doors, heater core. The car doesn't really have heat to speak of. Someday soon I would like to fix that. While I'm at it I will likely take care of a few other things.

Gut the Rest of the Interior I want to replace the headliner and the rest of the upholstry in the vehicle. It's pretty gross. This might happen sooner than later. I want to use soundproofing through the car and this would a great thing to tackle together. This will most likely happen in tandem with rewiring my speakers.

Convert rear drum brakes to disc, big brake kit for front with new rotors. I just refreshed all my brakes, including new rear drums, so this will be a while, however it stil something I want to do.

Repaint, replace, refurbish interior plastic. Much of the interior plastic is looking pretty bad.



"Someday"
All steel bumpers, maybe police style "deer catcher" push bumbers - As money allows this might happen sooner. Would love to better protect my headlights and rear lights from damage. Rear plastic bumper is kind of a joke. I'd like to find some kind of thick rubber for actual collision points.
Quest for 200hp. If the car lasts this long. Generally, I'm happy with the car's power but why not strive for more? Generally I'll replace things as they fail. Engine rebuild will likely happen fist.

Turbo:
- Garrett VNT17/22 hybrid turbocharger
Fuel Delivery:
- RACE520 injector nozzles
- 11mm Injection Pump
- PD LiftPump
Airflow:
- 2.5" RacePipe, PD150 Intake Manifold, 3" Old Man Intake, |VR6 Airbox/MAF
- 3 Bar MAP sensor
- FMIC w/2.5" pipes
- 2.5" turboback hand built custom exhaust
Drivetrain:
- Built 5spd w/Pelonquin Limited Slip Differential & Cryo-treated gears
- DC Stg 4 clutch
Engine internals:
- Colt stg. 2 Cam
- Integrated Engineering connecting rods (rifled w/race bearings)
- Ceramic coated pistons bore stage 2
- Ported Head stage 3.5
- ARP head studs
Gauges & misc:
- Boost Valve
- McNally Boost/EGT Gauge
 
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garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
Very cool write up. The mk3s are good cars, probably some of the best that VW made, in terms of long-term quality. I know the mk4s have a TON of upsides but also come with their fair share of drawbacks. This was the last of the “old school” VWs before they radically changed how they designed their cars. Now that 90s cars are trendy again, it’s funny that I get so many looks and comments on the vehicle, which maybe 10 years ago would have been completely ignored on the road. Seems like people are waking up to how good (and how rare) they are, given that many have succumbed to rust by now.
 
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Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
That 90 psi difference in your engine is a time bomb. More than likely one of your valves is mushroomed due to the water. The lower end is pretty robust so it tends to survive, but the only way you really know for sure is to measure piston protrusion when the head is off. My recommendation is to find a used head and send it to Franko6 for a rebuild (which fits along with your power goals), then swap them. I had him rebuild a head years ago and the car made gobs more power than the other B4's we had at the time, given the same other components like tunes and injectors. I miss the power but have slowed down some in my old(ish) age. You will need to do things like a stage 2 cam and post & polish to get any kind of power of the AHU engine.

 

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
That 90 psi difference in your engine is a time bomb.
Oh dear... well my gut says you're right. I posted about this a few months ago and nobody replied so I thought it was fine. Shipping alone sounds like an astronomical expense. How much do you think it would be for a rebuild? I suppose I will send him a message.

Maybe I could just drive to him, and save on shipping lol, not mention purchasing an extra head.

Looks like I will have to move this up on my priority list.

Here are the actual gauge readings. Cylinders left to right. Might be closer to 80psi difference

 
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Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
He's a really busy guy so driving it there won't get you one any sooner. Find a head in a junkyard and send that to him, it's what I did and they can usually be found for around $100. Back when I had it done he'd send the shipping label to me and then sent it back because he gets a deal from doing so much shipping. I don't know what his prices are today so I don't want to mention what I paid years ago, but it was worth every penny and a whole lot less than a new head, including the shipping both ways and the stage 2 cam. He runs Frank's VW TDI's LLC in Lockwood, Missouri. Great guy to talk to and he really knows his stuff. He may even have a refurbished head there, it's hard to tell without talking with him. He's on here from time to time but is pretty busy so it's hit or miss.
 
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Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Find a head in a junkyard and send that to him, it's what I did and they can usually be found for around $100.
That's way cheaper than I was thinking. I don't live in an area where I can browse a junkyard in person. Where would be some good places to check online?

I did give him a call and he said he will email me some price sheets etc. I didn't get around to asking him if he had any heads on hand though. I'll call again tomorrow when its not a holiday.
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
Honestly, if you plan to put that kind of power through the engine it may be worth going through and doing a complete rebuild. My rings were pretty much done around 400,000 miles.
 
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Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Honestly, if you plan to put that kind of power through the engine it may be worth going through and doing a complete rebuild. My rings were pretty much done around 400,000 miles.
I assume you are suggesting a block rebuild also? Perhaps using a kit like this: https://www.idparts.com/engine-block-rebuild-kit-ahu-p-2951.html

Would be good to compile a parts list, including upgraded items if available. I know about the ARP studs, and a few other things, but wondering what else should be replaced in the block. Do I have to pull the engine?

Definitley something I've never attempted, but you're absolutely right. Might as well go the extra mile (if I can afford it).

Links to writeups would be appreciated. Doing some searches now myself.
 
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burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
i would at the very least hone and re-ring it. but check piston protrusion of course, first, when you take the head off. and checking taper would be ideal. since you've already got a good clutch in, you could take a gamble that the main crank bearings are OK. i think these are generally pretty hardy and last a good long time... if not, then at that point you'd just be taking the whole engine out... but just honing + re-ringing is really not a terribly difficult job, just requires being careful and clean and easy to do with engine in car.
 
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Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Debating what to do with my engine. Frank is busy until about April/May but seems interested in working with me. He says more than likely I bent a rod, which means I definitely need block work.

Just rebuilding the head didn't seem like an option in his opinion since the damage is likely in the block.

I don't really want to "drive and pray" because I could risk doing more damage to the engine. I'd be out a car for weeks or months waiting for a new engine at that point. More damage means less money back for the core deposit.

A new rebuilt long block will be upwards of $3,000 I think but likely closer to 4k with upgraded components. Still waiting on an actual quote.

There are a few reasons I'm considering swapping out the entire engine:

1. Having minimal downtime with the car is important to me. Every day I'm not working I could lose $300-400 or more. Ideal scenario would be to swap out the engine over the course of a weekend. I've already had a taste of this when I couldn't drive the car for 3weeks due to broken shifter. Not fun.

2. I don't think I have the time or the expertise to do the engine rebuild work myself. I live in a town with very few reputable mechanics, and fewer still that actually have the time or the experience to work on my engine. I have no shop of my own, so doing engine work myself is questionable. I'd rather put the engine in the hands of a master like Frank especially when it comes to expensive precision balanced components. I do have one mechanic I trust but he's not cheap and his time is very limited. I think he'd be willing to swap out an engine but not do the rebuild.

3. Upgraded stage 3 components and ported head. If I'm going to spend good money on something, I may as well get more bang for my buckn and prepare the engine for more power. Frank says hes seen these rebuilt engines get up to 200hp and 60mpg (probably not both lol). Even 180hp at a consistent 40+ would be well worth the investment I think!

4. Getting 400k more miles out of the car seems good?

5. My block has other issues that have been plaguing me for a while. No matter what I seem to do I have oil leaks. Hard to tell where they are coming from. Injectors are still kind of funky I think. I'd put more stock in a set of injectors from Frank. Knowing the engine has new headgasket, mainshaft seals, rings, etc... would give me a lot of piece of mind.
 
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Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Well, it's more the fact I'm spending time working on the car when I could be working, at least in this case. (but I also lack the mechanical confidence and a place to work and probably half of the tools) On a good job, i can pay for the rebuilt long block in two-three weeks maybe.

I do have the option to borrow my wife's car for basic transportation and my grandpa's F350 for work if I have to.

Storing tools at the jobsite is sometimes not an option, and I'm not going to leave them in the back of a truck. Even transporting tools in the back of a truck seems sketchy with the weather we've been having. Moving them into the shed every day is not an option either since it's so inefficient. A van would be ideal.

But also, I just don't see myself being able to afford a second vehicle at this time. Any vehicle I would likely be able to afford would be used with its own set of issues.
 
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Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
With your kind of work you could probably get by with a Grand Caravan or something similar in size.

Steve
 

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Yeah, thats probably the right size. For a truck I would need a cab. 12in miter saw, table saw, and galaxy 8in sander and 20in floor buffer are some of the larger tools I need to carry around.
 

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
So I'm fairly set on swapping the entire long block for the reasons I stated above. Would be nice if there were a more middle of the road approach, but I think the piece of mind of having a fully rebuilt engine is worth it to me. At 300k miles I would likely be needing to do this anyway. I'm not in a huge rush though. Just want to do this at some point this year. The car currently drives more or less fine, albeit smokey and inefficient. I'm sick of getting only 35mpg though.

I'm expecting my business to really take off, and I have a collectible card collection I can canibalize to help pay for parts. Already selling a card worth around 2500. I can scrap together another 1k-2k if I have to from the collection. I'll be spending less on tools this year for the business since I already bought a lot of what I needed last year, so finances I think are looking pretty solid. This still beats buying a new vehicle imo, which is something I would probably never do anyway.

What i would like to do is make a plan for the swap. Parts list, and I will be compiling a list of write ups to do the work.

I'm interested in saving money where possible, however like I've said I understand this is going to be a money pit. I will just have to schedule a week to work on it.

I'm jumping up to the 11mm pump. Found a great price on a rebuilt one here: https://www.xmanturbos.com/product-page/11mm-injection-pump-for-1-9tdi-alh Considering this is less than half the price of what cascadegerman and kerma want for it, that's enough to convince me.

I also want to convert to a VNT turbo, per @burpod behest. https://www.xmanturbos.com/product-...240bhp-hybrid-turbocharger-with-large-vnt20-c

The price is right for these two items. And it makes a lot of sense to do the work now rather than later while the engine is out.

FUEL DELIVERY

Going to step up to .260 nozzles. Not sure what brand yet but leaning toward Bosch, or whatever Frank recommends as he will likely be doing the work. This a familar setup for Burpod so it will be easy to get a quality tune.

PD lift pump: https://www.idparts.com/tank-lift-pump-bew-1j0919050b-707795390-p-585.html

I think with the other mods, it makes sense to do this at the same time.

EXHAUST

Going to swap out exhaust turbo back. This is an area I could use some help with. Reason being I need a downpipe that fits the VNT anyway.

Thinking to use a new cat, like the Magnaflow. 2.5in diameter. I know a lot of people have deleted the muffler without too much issue. How much does this actually impact noise? Car is already plenty loud for my taste. Some people use a resonator, not sure if there's a benefit to that or not.

COOLANT/OIL

I would like aluminum parts for the thermostat housing and the coolant flange at the least.

CCV mods... I want to do something with the CCV breather hose. Either pipe it do a can , or justblock it off. not sure

AIR

FMIC. Need to research how involved this is and to see if it can wait.

custom turbo inlet hose, and boost pipes: https://www.siliconeintakes.com/

VR6 Airbox/MAF ? This can probably wait, although I want to make sure the engine never ingests water again. Snorkel lol?


TRANSMISSION/DRIVETRAIN

This phase can probably wait as well. I have the SBC endurance stage 2 clutch which should be good for a while. Transmission currently doesn't have any other issues that I'm aware of.

Stage 4 clutch
LSD - traction is important to me. I do tend to drive on a lot of ice and mud during the winter
5th gear mod or 6speed conversion? I'm happy with my 5speed except for the 5th gear being too high of rpms above 75mph for my liking
machined or new flywheel - i skipped doing this when I swapped out the clutch last time.
 
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burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
i would skip the aftermarket cat, from my limited experience, they're expensive junk. i got a bigname brand (i forget which, magnaflow or whatever) put in on my rabbit exhaust years ago when i built it. it ended up breaking apart inside and i finally just had to punch it all out. so, a total waste, and at some point would like to redo the downpipe so it doesn't have the empty cat in there which i think causes turbulence and minor drone. but even with that, my exhaust 2.5 straight doesn't seem too loud to me with the 1856. i am likely going to replace the empty cat with a basic resonator, so that would be my suggestion....

i would keep the stock airbox. i have it in my mk3, when it was running, with 1856 11mm and .260s and as far as i could tell, air flow was not lacking, at least with the larger inlet pipe i made with stock piping + silicone.

if youre putting down the $$ for new clutch and trans is apart for LSD it would be a no brainer IMO to do the eurotuning.cz 6spd surgery while it's apart, it's really not a difficult job if you can use a gear puller... getting the rivets out for the LSD is a pain, if you have a drill press, it's not hard, just a bit of a "chore".

for CCV, you *can* make a simple switchable CCV breather based on boost pressure, using simple cheap easy to find parts. on my mk1, when boost is <7psi, CCV routes to intake pipe as normal. which is nice for parking lots, idling, especially in winter it reduces the stink. but if you're boosting to 20+psi, it's probably not a bad idea to be letting it dump to atmosphere

xmans 1856 is a solid, good bang-for-buck turbo. a new gen of course would be nicer to have and more efficient and spool faster. but tuned right, it really doesn't have any lag you would notice IMO... but that is subjective, some people want to have absolutely instant boost, which i feel can be hard on the drivetrain down low. you *can* do things differently and have very nice results. perhaps you might lose .1second at the track but i can't imagine on a public road you would tell any difference over the course of a 5 second pull other than that very initial instant kick. but that instant kick can often lead to overboost then dip below target boost 5 seconds later unless boots control and conditions are 100% perfect. that's a whole different topic... bottom line, i can't imagine you would ever notice the "lag" it has unless you were out trying to race boosted gassers on a daily basis which i don't imagine you are doing :)

for piping and elbows for boost/inlet pipes i generally use siliconeintakes.com .
 

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
Versailles Missouri
TDI
1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
If you need an engine rebuild, I've got a rebuilt ahu short block I am going to be selling. Currently all stock, but can do arp mains and include arp head studs too.
 
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Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
if youre putting down the $$ for new clutch and trans is apart for LSD it would be a no brainer IMO to do the eurotuning.cz 6spd surgery while it's apart, it's really not a difficult job if you can use a gear puller... getting the rivets out for the LSD is a pain, if you have a drill press, it's not hard, just a bit of a "chore".
hmm, can keep my 02J diesel geek short shifter with this?
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
hmm, can keep my 02J diesel geek short shifter with this?
everything stays the same - only the internal bits in the trans are changed. axles, clutch, shifter etc,... i love it. i think i would go this route even if i had an mk4 rather than factory 6spd....
 

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
I decided to do a bit of test on my suspension today. I needed to buy some concrete for a pad I making on our property. I bought 10 bags of portland at 94lbs each. You should have seen the yard supervisor's face when I gave him the ticket!!






I took pictures before and after the load of the clearance on my rear wheel well. There are 8 bags in the trunk and 2 in the front seat. I took these 10 bags out to our property on a pretty bumpy dirt road. Went slow, but the car handled the load just fine.
 

Rig

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Location
New Mexico
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI, 210k miles
Success! Installed the jumper wire today. Here are some pictures of the process:









And in case these pics eventually dissapear, I used my angle grinder with an abrasive wheel to grind down some 0.187 terminal tabs from Ace until they fit. I used some "regular" 16 gauge wire to connect them, then heat shrinked some tubing around the connection and electrical taped for good measure.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
That’s a stripping disc, but if it worked, why not? I’d have just trimmed the terminals with wire cutters. They’re only copper.

-Todd
 
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alanack

Veteran Member
Joined
May 10, 2022
Location
Rhode Island
TDI
1998 Jetta
Just be careful with your budget. Sometimes a cheap old car can be save you tons of money, but a couple break downs and missed work can quickly change that.
 
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