My new 17/22 will be here soon....

[rlindus55]

So I fabbed up my own race pipe, exhaust, omi, and will be doing my own I/C pipping.
I hate having extra stuff hanging around, (ie. dangling capped vaccum lines, etc) What else can I eliminate for actuators and stuff before I wrap this thing up and get a tune?

Also I will still be running the 10mm pump for now. What nozzles should I run? I have been told pp520 are a little small for a 10mm and would be better of going bigger. I have a lead on a set of pp502 (pp764 eqiv?) which is bigger? Or what? You tell me the way to go here with the 17/22. Newbie to this TDI thing and loving it, turbo went so I figured we min as well just do it up.

 

[dieselfuel]

Run the 764's. Choose a brand. I have Titan's and would buy them again, if needed.

 

[LNXGUY]

R520's, let the tuning take care of the smoke.

 

[terrydtdi]

He has asked a good question, I currently have RC3 euro, sprint 520, straight through stock size exhuast pipe, stock intercooling & piping, 10mm IP.

I'm considering going with the 17/22 turbo kit that ID Parts sells with all of the goodies. Is that a good route to take, or should I come up with bigger piping than comes with the kit?

So R520's might be the way to go? I did hear 764's are a really good nozzle with the 17/22.

I plan to evenually get a larger intercooler but keep throughing back and forth side mount Eurojet, or front mount???

What's your thoughts.

 

[YEAAAAH]

He has asked a good question, I currently have RC3 euro, sprint 520, straight through stock size exhuast pipe, stock intercooling & piping, 10mm IP.
I'm considering going with the 17/22 turbo kit that ID Parts sells with all of the goodies. Is that a good route to take, or should I come up with bigger piping than comes with the kit?
So R520's might be the way to go? I did hear 764's are a really good nozzle with the 17/22.
I plan to evenually get a larger intercooler but keep throughing back and forth side mount Eurojet, or front mount???
What's your thoughts.

I just went through all of this when my stock turbo went. I would highly recommend going with the entire kit. Upgrading the inter-cooler lines at the same time as the turbo is required. I did not look into all of the differences when I bought the turbo and had to order the rest of the kit's parts. Major props to ID parts, they were awesome. As far as SMIC or FMIC I cant help, I still have the stock SMIC. I believe that FMIC would be more important for bigger builds.
For nozzle choice I went with the DLC764s from kerma because they really liked tuning with them and I am not going to be pursuing a big power build.
Here is my advice on nozzle choice, and please the more opinions on this the better.
A tune can turn the fueling down. Due to nozzle restriction, you can only turn the fueling up so much. This is why so many people recommend R520s, they allow the most adjustment. Look at the prices and decide how big of a nozzle is necessary for you.

 

[mrvermin]

I would say that going with the full kit from IDparts is the way to go, 17/22, upgraded intercooler pipes and the OMI. also you may wish to look into a PD150 Intake and a larger 2.5" or 3" exhaust from the Turbo back. That along with the Race520 injectors and a good tune from either RC or Malone you should be good.

The other thing about the Intercooler, is look at the TacoTaco upgraded SMIC off Ebay (others on here have installed it and they are happy with it), it bolts right into the stock location and almost no mods are needed to the pipes. It is thicker than the stock one and flows more air.

You will also really want to look at an 11mm pump as well as a Lift Pump for the tank in the near future, they will make a difference in the fueling. You will also need to upgrade the stock 2.5BAR MAP to a 3BAR.

Have fun.

MrVermin

 

[rlindus55]

Turbo is here! I am going to start getting things back together. I know I can not run the 3 bar until the tune. But can I leave the map and maf unplugged and drive it in limp to get the tune? It is a real PITA to get at once the intercooler is installed on the NB.

 

[LNXGUY]

You can run the 3bar before the tune, you just will see elevated boost and no fuel to go along with it. It won't hurt anything (Assuming you're talking about running it with the 17/22, not your stock vnt15)

 

[ryanp]

You can run the 3bar before the tune, you just will see elevated boost and no fuel to go along with it. It won't hurt anything (Assuming you're talking about running it with the 17/22, not your stock vnt15)

Bad advise there IMO, leave the 3 bar until you have a tune ready and waiting

 

[LNXGUY]

Bad advise there IMO, leave the 3 bar until you have a tune ready and waiting

It's better then leaving the MAP unplugged..... Car will be un-driveable.

 

[Geobmx4life]

I just put a VNT 17/22 in my car, and it ran fine with everything plugged in...and leave the 3bar MAP until it gets tuned...turbo was laggy but worked fine.

 

[FredS]

Yeah, don't switch to 3bar until you are ready for a tune with it. Either injector is fine, as I have both, and have run both. R520s, a little more aggressive than the 764s, but not by much. How much smoke do you want to tune out. If not much, then go the 764 route.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I don't know why you folks think running a 3-bar with the existing tune will be a problem. If he has a tune for a VNT-15 (no more than 18 PSI, most likely) the 3-bar will bump it to 21-22, which is totally fine for the 17/22. If it's stock the 3 bar will help with the over-fueling from the new nozzles until the tune is done.

What am I missing?

 

[LNXGUY]

I don't know why you folks think running a 3-bar with the existing tune will be a problem. If he has a tune for a VNT-15 (no more than 18 PSI, most likely) the 3-bar will bump it to 21-22, which is totally fine for the 17/22. If it's stock the 3 bar will help with the over-fueling from the new nozzles until the tune is done.

What am I missing?

I'm wondering the same thing, lol.

 

[rlindus55]

That's exactly what I was thinking too.. I could see problems if I still had the vnt 15.. we will see. I have a boost, and EGT gauges and I will watch it close. It is only a 20min drive, I will let everyone know.

 

[LNXGUY]

That's exactly what I was thinking too.. I could see problems if I still had the vnt 15.. we will see. I have a boost, and EGT gauges and I will watch it close. It is only a 20min drive, I will let everyone know.

You're not going to hurt a thing man... I drove my 1756 with a 3bar and a tune written for a stock MAP for weeks...

 

[KERMA]

What am I missing?

Limp mode

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

If you drive it hard, I suppose. I use an 2.5 bar ecu for my car for inspection with the 3-bar map in place and it's never gone into limp when I've been driving it. But I don't drive it hard with that ECU. And if it does, no big deal.

 

[F1 tuning]

And if it does, no big deal.

That's interesting
So what's the need for bigger turbo....
And once it is there the power cannot be used ??

no big deal....I have, just cannot use....make sense ?

 

[KERMA]

Something interesting I've observed about these limp modes that happen from a sensor mismatch: they usually occur at part throttle conditions, like cruising down the highway, when you start to ease into the throttle to do some passing. (Not at WOT) This means you get limp home mode at exactly the most inconvenient time. Ease into the throttle to pass... bam, no power for you, so sorry. The worst part about this is, you could go for days or weeks without any hint of a problem, then it happens out of the blue...

Limp at full throttle is not a problem for some tuned cars, because the boost setpoint is within the tolerance band (400 mbar from the factory) of the sensor saturation- which means the ECU simply *can't* go into limp mode at WOT in may cases - because the triggering criteria simply can't be *seen* at WOT. This could of course lead to a lot of overboost (sometimes) without the failsafe to protect the turbo. Thus the insistence by some of the need for boost valves, and so forth.

You can see if you have the right sensor by checking measuring blocks group 10, which shows the barometric sensor and boost sensor together. The readings should match perfectly with the car not running. The ecu looks at this for a plausibility check at bootup. The tolerance for this check is 130 mbar for our ALH. Some euro cars bypass this check by using a wider tolerance (1950 mbar). Try it sometime- install a 3bar sensor with a stock tune, look at the difference in group 10 with the engine off- at sea level it's pretty close to that 130 mbar tolerance.

 

[ryanp]

I've had a turbo go bang with a missed 3 bar calibration so i dont risk it.