My first TDI. A 2000 Jetta

[fatmobile]

I got the windshield polished.
Took about 4 hours of buffing with the eastwood cerium oxide powder and felt buffer pad.
I've never had a windshield halo at night the way this one did. And I drive old Rabbits with factory windshields.
So many tiny scratches.
Still has some small pits but not noticeable unless I really look. It has a nice shine now.

Been collecting some seat heaters to swap in, that job is a PITA.
Radio still doesn't work.
Sometimes the dome light won't work. Most times it does. Might have been a fault code for the light timer.

I might have smelled some antifreeze, last time I turned it to high heat.
I'll run it without heat for awhile and turn it on.
I bought a heater core and some plugs for the vents.
If it is leaking, it would be a nice job to have done before selling it.
I feel like most of the scary big jobs would be done after that.

I'd have to check the first post but I think I've had it for 4 years and put 7000 miles on it.
Mostly highway trips, I usually drive the Rabbit when staying local.

 

[fatmobile]

Knocked some more stuff out the other day.
The hood support strut died this winter so that got replaced.

The door unlock buttons on the driver's door were a pain to operate.
had to push them very hard over and over to finally get them to unlock, then they would sometime lock right back up.

When my buddy was parting his hoard of MK4s people suggested those switches as something to grab.
Cleaned up the salvaged set and put them in, door locks work like new now.

I think when I was rebuilding the calipers and flushing the fluid, I might have stepped ont he clutch while the fluid was low or something.
It started acting like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging< I pressure bleed the hydraulic clutch and it's working right now.

I keep checking for the antifreeze smell and haven't smelled it again. I am going to install the blend door plugs so I might still do the heater core while I'm part way there.

 

[fatmobile]

Took the bad door lock switches apart.
They are a lot like TV remote control contacts inside and look like they could be easily taken apart and fixed.
There is a hidden screw in the middle, under the lable.

 

[fatmobile]

Removed the dash and glued plugs into the blend door holes.
Glad to have that done.
Cleaned up the dash and vents.
One vent had a floppy blade so I fixed that and any broken clips by melting paper clips into the plastic to support it.
Kind of plastic rebar.

I think the clutch is going. It shutters when I go to take off and when I shift it doesn't seem like it's all the way released.
Kind of have to rev match to get it to pop into gear.
Downshifts OK though, so that might just be linkage adjustment.

Radio still doesn't work.
I can hear it just barely if I turn it to max.
The fuse in the back looked good but I should swap another one in.
And after the dash swap the 6 CD changer isn't recognized.
I didn't put the radio all the way back in yet so I'll check the connections and plugs.
Probably need a new monsoon radio.

 

[wonneber]

Removed the dash and glued plugs into the blend door holes.
Glad to have that done.
Cleaned up the dash and vents.
One vent had a floppy blade so I fixed that and any broken clips by melting paper clips into the plastic to support it.
Kind of plastic rebar.

I think the clutch is going. It shutters when I go to take off and when I shift it doesn't seem like it's all the way released.
Kind of have to rev match to get it to pop into gear.
Downshifts OK though, so that might just be linkage adjustment.

Radio still doesn't work.
I can hear it just barely if I turn it to max.
The fuse in the back looked good but I should swap another one in.
And after the dash swap the 6 CD changer isn't recognized.
I didn't put the radio all the way back in yet so I'll check the connections and plugs.
Probably need a new monsoon radio.

You shouldn't "look" at fuses to see if they are good.
Years ago there was a load of those that looked good but had a hair line crack.
Buy an inexpensive test light and voltmeter.
Harbor Freight has these.
I can't find my list of fuses and what they power at the moment but this should be on line.
Last, make sure the radio is grounded properly.
Ground wires are usually brown.
Last, check the battery negative cable connections to ground are all clean and tight including the one to the body.
Hope this helps.

You clearly have power getting into the radio but if all the grounds aren't tight and clean

 

[fatmobile]

Good point, I have plenty of fuses I can swap in.
And if I measure voltage on the ground wire it means it's not connected to ground.

 

[fatmobile]

Kinda think the clutch is going, ha.
It was shuddering on takeoff and when shifting it didn't seem to totally disengage.
Had to kinda rev match to get it into gear.
Downshifted OK.

I took the trany off and a piece of the throwout bearing fell out.
The little half-moon sitting on the pressure plate:
clutchbad2000jetta by vwfatmobile, on Flickr

There are about 10 cracks all around the pressure plate. What causes these cracks?
Is that finger supposed to be missing? No sign of it in the bell housing.
The disc is worn flat all around the outer edge.
The DMF seems offset. Couldn't get to the bolts easily through the holes.
Nice addition to the scrap pile.

The parts car I bought had a new Valeo DMF clutch installed along with new control arms, just before they put it in the ditch and it started burning.
So I have a new stock clutch for it.
Got a new seal/guide, and throwout bearing along with the armspring/holder and little nub thing.
New crank/flywheel bolts. The ones I have aren't the XZN ones like the ones I removed.
Any other bolts that should be changed? I guess I haven't looked at the book yet.

Looks like the rear main seal is seeping. I might have to pull the oil pan to fix that.
Big job. Nice to have everything inside the bell housing done.
Should be the last daunting big job on this car.

Also planning to pick up it's twin this weekend.
Another 2000 Jetta, same color,.. for $200 plus travel. Bad heater fan and maybe windshield.
3 hour drive. Down by my sister's and was going to visit her anyway.

 

[STDOUBT]

There are about 10 cracks all around the pressure plate. What causes these cracks?

I'm thinking "pressure".

 

[Zak99b5]

You don’t need to drop the pan to r&r the rear main seal.

 

[jokila]

The missing "finger" is normal.
If you have cracks on the pressure plate it could be from aggressive clutching.

 

[fatmobile]

Glad to hear the oil pan can stay in place.
I see the new rear seal has a rubber lip on the bottom and on the back.
Different setup than the old 1.6 I'm used to working on.
Sounds like no fiber gasket between it and the block, maybe a skim of sealant on the surface?
Or does that rubber lip on the back do all the work? And seal well.
I should probably try to get a little sealant between the pan and bottom of the seal carrier even though there is some rubber there too.

Oh, the guy I got it from is a little crazy.
I've put around 7000 miles on it and it died on my watch
but I haven't been dropping the clutch doing burnouts or beating on it.
I use my Rabbit and MK2 golf for that.

 

[dieseldonato]

I put a little dab of rtv on the bottom corners of the rear seal plate when I did mine. Didn't think it would hurt, but I didn't want to chance it not sealing up properly

 

[fatmobile]

Got the clutch swapped.
Took care of the shutter when taking off and it shifts nice, no more rev matching.
Stock DMF. Works great now.

Only problems with it now are with the:
Radio. It doesn't have much sound with the antenna plugged in but gets louder when the antenna is unplugged and held near the radio.
The 6-CD changer mounted in the trunk works great, I'll have to try a tape.
I used a coat hanger to demonstrate.
MK4radioantenna (youtube.com)

Also had a complete spare antenna with cable, (took it apart and there was no corrosion) that I plugged in.
Had the frame of it grounded to the battery with jumper cables.
It did the same thing.

Dome light. Doesn't turn on when I try but if I leave the switch in the on position it might turn on later by itself.

Oh and valve cover leaks some oil down the back of the block.
Ordered a gasket, got a spare cover all cleaned up and ready.

 

[jokila]

Got the clutch swapped.
Took care of the shutter when taking off and it shifts nice, no more rev matching.
Stock DMF. Works great now.

Only problems with it now are with the:
Radio. It doesn't have much sound with the antenna plugged in but gets louder when the antenna is unplugged and held near the radio.
The 6-CD changer mounted in the trunk works great, I'll have to try a tape.
I used a coat hanger to demonstrate.
MK4radioantenna (youtube.com)

Also had a complete spare antenna with cable, (took it apart and there was no corrosion) that I plugged in.
Had the frame of it grounded to the battery with jumper cables.
It did the same thing.

Dome light. Doesn't turn on when I try but if I leave the switch in the on position it might turn on later by itself.

Oh and valve cover leaks some oil down the back of the block.
Ordered a gasket, got a spare cover all cleaned up and ready.

The valve cover gasket it not serviceable. Replace the valve cover.

 

[fatmobile]

The new gasket sure fits on there nice.
I put Right Stuff in the grooves on the cover to stick the rubber gasket in place.
A little extra in the corners.
Seems like a well-made gasket, it stuck in place very nicely.
I bolted it to a used head to cure.
I'll put it on and see if it leaks.

I think it's time to sell this one.
To free up some money and so I can start working on and driving the 2003 wagon.

 

[jokila]

The new gasket sure fits on there nice.
I put Right Stuff in the grooves on the cover to stick the rubber gasket in place.
A little extra in the corners.
Seems like a well-made gasket, it stuck in place very nicely.
I bolted it to a used head to cure.
I'll put it on and see if it leaks.

I think it's time to sell this one.
To free up some money and so I can start working on and driving the 2003 wagon.

So others are not mislead by your comment...

You didn't do this to the OEM valve cover because that gasket is vulcanized into the valve cover. What kind of valve cover are you using?

\

 

[BobnOH]

Never had issue with the valve cover, but others have. Someone out there sells a gasket for folks who think they need one.

 

[fatmobile]

Yes, it's an OEM valve cover.
I removed the old gasket, it took a while but I got it all scrapped clean.
I'd use something other than right stuff next time, it didn't stick real well in some spots and could be pulled off if I tried.

Got it from these guys:
1998-2007 VW BEETLE GOLF JETTA TDI Engine Valve Cover Gaskets 1.9L 038 | UCarPart
Think it comes from China.

I'll put it on the car and let you know how well it works.

 

[fatmobile]

Working on a Burpod tune for this car.
Got the first tune loaded and WOW.
I did a couple unintentional burnouts yesterday while taking a few logs for him to look at.

Came up the onramp and there was road construction at the top.
The trucks in front of me stopped.
Now I have to merge onto the interstate from a stop and the guy behind me jumped on early and was going to cut me off.
I stepped on it and the wheels started spinning, I let off and got on it a little again and they started squealing again.
I got them to stick and took off. This is going to take some getting used to.
Later, just messing around, I stepped on it in 2nd gear and the wheels started squealing again.

I have a buddy who used to have a bunch of MK4 TDIs, (now he's a Mercedes kinda guy) he let me pick through them when he parted the hoard out, many of the parts on my cars came from his MK4 stash.
I let him take it for a ride. Color him impressed.
Said it could probably keep up with his Mercedes.

I filled with fuel and the fuel mileage went down in the 83 miles I drove it since filled after loading the first tune.
Actually 38.3 is better than the 37 MPG I got just before the tune.
I will try to drive normal and see what happens to the fuel mileage.
Driving down the highway I practically have to hold my foot up to stay under 60MPH.
So I am sure if I can reprogram my driving to match this tune, the MPG will go up.

 

[fatmobile]

Got the interior lights working.
None of them would turn on, but if you turned them on and left them on, sometimes they would suddenly turn on.
Never ran my battery down that way but could have.
I unplugged the blue plug on the CCM and plugged it back in a couple times.
Wasn't getting any volts on the red/blue wire, then I got 9 volts, then full voltage and they were working.

Have your key handy because somehow this triggers the alarm when you open the door while working on the CCM.

There are no oil leaks underneath since the clutch and valve cover gasket swap.
The little CCV elbow broke and leaks a little.
Couldn't find a used one in the hoard so a new one of those is in the cart for the next parts order.

A little clunking in the front I should check on. All the bushings were changed so I'll have to lift it up and hammer on things.
Otherwise it's a great ride.
Drove it easy and still only got 40mpg, but it was alot of idling and stop-and-go city driving.

After loading the first tune there was no check engine light.
Only code was caused by the EGR delete and that code got removed with the tune.
That lasted for a short while. The light came on again, this time because of the glow plug harness.
Cleaned that up and am now CEL free.

 

[fatmobile]

Still working on improving the tune.

I think sometimes I smell antifreeze, inside the car.
Thought I smelled some last summer but never smelled it again.
Probably should have changed the heater core when I put plugs in the blend doors and it was warm out.
Oh well maybe I'll be able to pull the dash off quicker the second time, ha.

Still no check engine or other warning lights on the cluster.
And it runs great. Looking forward to my next fuel fill so I can check smileage.

 

[northern diesel]

Nice - an earlier burpid tune got wheels squealing - my latest tune seems a little more conservative. But I’m also in an AT BEW.
I think he said I get one more revision - I’m hoping I can get the most out of this turbo - with my stock injectors.

Great work- I enjoyed reading your progress.
Inspired me to get cracking on my procrastination swap.

Working on a Burpod tune for this car.
Got the first tune loaded and WOW.
I did a couple unintentional burnouts yesterday while taking a few logs for him to look at.

Came up the onramp and there was road construction at the top.
The trucks in front of me stopped.
Now I have to merge onto the interstate from a stop and the guy behind me jumped on early and was going to cut me off.
I stepped on it and the wheels started spinning, I let off and got on it a little again and they started squealing again.
I got them to stick and took off. This is going to take some getting used to.
Later, just messing around, I stepped on it in 2nd gear and the wheels started squealing again.

I have a buddy who used to have a bunch of MK4 TDIs, (now he's a Mercedes kinda guy) he let me pick through them when he parted the hoard out, many of the parts on my cars came from his MK4 stash.
I let him take it for a ride. Color him impressed.
Said it could probably keep up with his Mercedes.

I filled with fuel and the fuel mileage went down in the 83 miles I drove it since filled after loading the first tune.
Actually 38.3 is better than the 37 MPG I got just before the tune.
I will try to drive normal and see what happens to the fuel mileage.
Driving down the highway I practically have to hold my foot up to stay under 60MPH.
So I am sure if I can reprogram my driving to match this tune, the MPG will go up.

 

[fatmobile]

I should have done some more testing of the vacuum and VNT controller stuff before I sent a log to Burpod.

VNT lever didn't hit the stop screw until 21inhg, was supposed to be near 18inhg.
The rod was all froze up with rust so had to remove it to free it up so I could adjust with it on the car.
Did it in the cold and bumped/cracked the line to the vacuum booster so upgraded it from the brittle plastic line
to a flexible rubber booster hose from an old Rabbit.
So that should "never" crack again.

Took the vacuum pump off.
Tightened up the jiggly vacuum pump barb by re-crimping it with a 15/16" deep socket and BFH.
It no longer jiggles or spins.
Then put some black silicone on it.
Used VCDS to check the VNT controller operation and it works great now.

Plan is to log 011-014 and check the timing actual/spec.
Then send him some good logs.

 

[fatmobile]

Sooo looks like the AC compressor is wonky.
Took the clutch off and the splines on the shaft are so rusty, they are practically gone.

First car I've had where I kept the AC. The old MK1s and 2s all had it disconnected.
So thought I'd run some of the tests. When I push the AC button, it lights up but neither of the fans come on.
Is that test for when it's at operating temperature or are they both supposed to come on even if the car is just started and cold?

I checked the 2 fuses in the dash fuse box they looked good.
I'll measure voltage on them. Also looked at the fuses on top of the battery they look good.
Is there a pressure switch I should check or bypass test?
Is there a belt routing that will allow me to run without it for awhile and still have power steering?

The plan from here is to get a new compressor, drier and valve.
2000 volkswagen Jetta A/C Compressor and Components Kit 1.8L and 2.0L 60-80109-RK
It says it's for the gasser but they said it's for the TDI too.

So have it evacuated. Swap in the new compressor with proper amount of oil.
Swap in new valve and drier.
Draw down a vacuum and take it back to where it was evacuated to have it filled.
He said $70 to have it evacuated and for him to put it back in.

Is there a few tests I should do before I take it apart to make sure all the switches and stuff are working so I can fix it while it's empty?

 

[P2B]

I would follow the diagnostic procedures here before condemning the compressor:

Check your radiator/condenser fan operation NOW

Mk IV Manual AC electrical & cooling fan troubleshooting and repair Now is the time of the year to check that your pair of electric fans that provide cooling for both the radiator and air conditioner condensor are functioning. Do not needlessly age your Air Conditioning compressor by running it...

forums.tdiclub.com

Key on/AC switch on, both fans should run on low. Engine does not need to be running. Fix fans first.

You don't need to bypass the compressor, it's effectively an idler pulley when the AC button isn't pressed.

 

[fatmobile]

OK first step was unplug the temp switch on the lower left of the radiator and jump the plug.
Looks like only one fan is working, the small one, and it's kind of noisy.
Sooo $100 in fans.
Used this to figure out fan troubleshooting:
A4_Coolant_Fan_testing_Rev_7.pdf

I might take the fans apart first and see if they can be fixed.

 

[BobnOH]

Is that test for when it's at operating temperature or are they both supposed to come on even if the car is just started and cold?
yes, both fans should run whenever the AC is running
.........snip.............
Is there a pressure switch I should check or bypass test?
Is there a belt routing that will allow me to run without it for awhile and still have power steering?
you just need a proper length belt
Is there a few tests I should do before I take it apart to make sure all the switches and stuff are working so I can fix it while it's empty?

use the link in P2Bs post.
Search here for the belt

Programmable Search Engine

cse.google.com

 

[fatmobile]

Took them apart and sure enough the big fan's brushes were crumbly and stuck in place.
They got hot and melted the brush holder.

The small one still looked good inside, plenty of brush but the front bearing feels grindy.
Probably impossible to get the shaft out of the fan blade so I can change the bearing in that end.
It is comforting to know I can't break something that's already broke.

Yes Bob I do need to do some more searching regarding where the pressure switches are. Both here and elsewhere.
Because if one is bad, it would be nice to change it before it gets refilled.

 

[P2B]

Yes Bob I do need to do some more searching regarding where the pressure switches are.

There aren't any, just a high pressure sensor up near the firewall. All covered in the thread I linked.

 

[jokila]

...
Draw down a vacuum and take it back to where it was evacuated to have it filled.
He said $70 to have it evacuated and for him to put it back in.
....

Make sure he puts the freon back in by weight. 750grams.