My car won't start...

[csstevej]

Duplicate post

 

[csstevej]

Use a dial indicator with a magnetic base.
Take the measurements inline with the piston wrist pin , so it’s the middle of the piston on the edge inline with the wrist pin. This way you won’t have much rocking error when you do this.
This needs to be done at TDC . Move the crank either side of TDC to get your number.
Then compare your four readings. They should be close to each other if no bent rods.
If you have two for one spec HG and two for another….. well then you have bent rods and the lower numbers are the culprit.
If all good then use the higher number to pick the gasket as that’s the one that will be closest to valves.
If you do have bent rods I highly recommend you get ahold of Franko6.
I had two bent rods on my one car. Called him up and I sent all 4 rods and pistons to him where he matched lengths and weight’s between them….had to replace two rods and two pistons as the whet beat from the P.O. mechanic botched TB job.

 

[tdihopeful]

The way I measured I don't see as being that far off from the precision I would get from a dial indicator. I was very precise with moving the pistons through they're range of motion and I took measurements from the center line of the pistons parallel with the wrist pins.

I should be able to borrow a dial indicator from a neighbor though. I'll see about doing that.

I suppose that two rods could be bent but if they are I don't see how that could be from the valves/pistons contacting as they contacted with all four and with similar impact as evident by the marks on the pistons. Seems that all rods would be bent not only two. I also suppose if two rods are bent that they could have been that way before I purchased the car.

That would also mean that it's been operating with bent rods for around 6,000ish miles at least.

 

[tdihopeful]

As far as the gasket goes a 2 hole is what I took off of it.

 

[tdihopeful]

Have a possible major problem. I'm finally getting around to working on the Head I found that one of the injectors got rust in it. If looking at the top of the injector where fuel enters there is rust. None of the other 3 got rust and it just happens to be the sensor injector. The expensive one...

Am I screwed with that? Is it likely damaged or is it serviceable? How should I clean it if so. Evapo-Rust? Obviously I would want to clean it as much as possible before trying to pump fuel through it. It's not heavy rust, not big rust flakes but it's not extremely light either.

Je-e-esus I forget how I posted pictures before again.

 

[tdihopeful]

Ok I figured out pictures hosting sitch here. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/rusty-injector-jpg.159417/

 

[tdihopeful]

I sprayed it with Blaster immediately when I found this.

I have a LockTite product called Extend Rust Neutralizer that "converts light rust into a paintable surface" "do not use on surfaces that will exceed 120°f" "if used on metal that doesn't have rust may cause rust"

Not planning on spraying that into the injector...

I need to know what are all of the materials the injector is made from.

 

[Zak99b5]

That doesn’t look good.

You could carefully take it apart, keeping all the pieces in order, and inspect & clean it up. I have a spare set of injectors (pulled from my car when I upgraded) for sale if it’s beyond hope.

But I’m wondering how that happened in the first place. Was some alternative fuel used?

 

[AndyBees]

I'd say it is serviceable.

 

[tdihopeful]

Thank you Zak thanks. If I can't get it cleaned up I may want to take you up on you're offer.

I started watching tutorial vids on service of these injectors. It doesn't look too hard so far.

Ok I'm going to give that a try. I need to see still is any special tools are needed.

It got rusted because the nitrile glove I placed over the injector wasn't good enough on there. Another one worked but on 3 water got in there from it being outside and getting rained on a number of times.