My $600 to $1300 B4 passat TDI
- Thread starter fletcher0780
- Start date
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Thanks. I'm not a fan of wagons, so if it was, I never would have bought it.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Placed the order for my pp764's today, my calipers also arrived. I should have the rest of my brake parts early next week.
Will your cool BBS RJ wheels accommodate a big brake conversion?
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
They should, the rotors are from a 92 corrado g60, same as the wheels. Ther calipers are huge compared to the crappy factory ones. I'll do a test fit tomorrow and post the results. I need to find a decent set of 225/50/15, my 185/60/15 will not hold up to the abuse very long.
fastrabbit
Veteran Member
it sounds good.. mite need a higher boost gauge. how does it feel? is the clutch holding up ok?
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Yeah, definitely need another gauge. I'm having an over boost issue that is tripping a manifold pressure sensor shorted to pos code. Requested boost is 22 psi, but actual goes off the chart. I tried lengthening actuator rod two turns and the problem persisted. I sent an email to Malone, but does anyone have any ideas? I may add MBC to it for the short term to avoid ob. I tried my n18 valve in place of n75 and had the same issue. I verified all vacuum routing.
Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
The tune's requested boost is 25 psi? That is ~3.4 bar absolute. You have a 4 bar sensor installed?
When you lengthened the rod, what are the vacuums reported for when it start moving and when it stops? For my 1756, I have it start at ~3 inHg and stop ~12.5 inHg.
When you lengthened the rod, what are the vacuums reported for when it start moving and when it stops? For my 1756, I have it start at ~3 inHg and stop ~12.5 inHg.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
The tune is requesting 22psi (which is 2.5 bar absolute). I still have the stock 2.5 bar map, but seeing the gt1749va has an effective limit of 22psi, this works fine. The tune is acting correctly, raising duty cycle of n75 during overboost, but something in my vacuum or mechanical boost regulation is not working correctly. I'll take the mighty vac out now and see when it starts and stops movement. I'll also monitor vacuum levels at the actuator.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Starts moving at 6, stops at 16. 28 vac from vacuum pump at idle. 20 to actuator at idle. Down to 3 at over boost. The veins are moving though because if I supply vacuum to actuator at low rpms, I build higher and faster boost. Perhaps they do not have full range?
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fletcher0780
Veteran Member
With vacuum disconnected from actuator, I get no to very little boost. Sound like actuator needs adjusting? The other dilema here is that the litte knurled thumb screw on the actuator will not move, I need to undo the lock nut, take the two bolts off of the actuator and turn the entire actuator to lengthen rod. thoughts?
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What are you doing for the brake lines? Where are you purchasing the calipers? Are you changing the master cylinder at some point?I just did some research on improving the braking on the B4's and read this article: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4/girling-g60-brake-caliper-swap.htm
That lead to some shopping (FYI, these are loaded calipers and include the carriers):
and two of these: http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-96122R-Professional-Grade-Brake/dp/rebates/B000JZPK6K
I like the 5 lug swap, but I'm happy with my BBS wheels that I got very cheap, and in order to get the level of braking I'm going to get with the setup described above, I'd still need to upgrade to dual piston calipers, a bigger master cylinder, and larger rotors. I'll be sure to document the install. FYI, this brake project set me back about $280. I guess that means I've got about $2500 in the car now. Will get close to $3000 with the new nozzles.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
for brake lines, Im going to use 89 200 Quattro hoses, they are rubber from shock to caliper. I got the calipers from rock auto (shopping cart image), I'm also using a master cylinder from a 5000 turbo quattro (it is listed in shopping cart image as well).
new calipers with old rotors:
15" BBS wheels clear new calipers:
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
I'm curious if the dual piston calipers have an advantage over 11" brakes.
You wouldn't have needed the m/c and hoses, but you would have needed new rotors. Not sure which would have been more expensive.
-Todd
You wouldn't have needed the m/c and hoses, but you would have needed new rotors. Not sure which would have been more expensive.
-Todd
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Well, this setup with the dual piston calipers uses the 11" corrado g60 rotors also, so it is definitely more expensive, but the braking power should be substantially more. I think the total cost is about $250 with all new parts. My old calipers were getting a bit crusty anyway and I'm really not impressed with current braking.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Yeah, I haven't received my rotors yet, those pics were just showing the calipers bolted on and wheels clearing the calipers.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Got all my brake parts except pads and audi 200Q hoses to connect to calipers. I think they attempted delivery of my injectors today, but won't leave them without signature.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Got my new injectors and pp764 nozzles from kerma today. What a great setup they have, send you new return hoses, nice clean injectors, new crush washers, and even a slide hammer to pull the old injectors. I swapped them out in about 1/2 hour and went for a ride. The old girl definitely has more power now, hard to keep the tires from spinning when you shift in to 2nd and give her the gas. Unfortunately, it just makes my over boost and limp mode problem all the more noticeable. I took some pictures of the old and new injectors, and a screen capture of a log where I went easy up to forth, then held it to the floor until limp mode. I'm really leaning toward a bad actuator, so we'll see if the new one corrects the problem.
Out with the old:
In with the new:
Log (FYI, that flat spot on the top of the green actual line is only there because of the limitations of the 2.5bar MAP, boost kept climbing):
Out with the old:
In with the new:
Log (FYI, that flat spot on the top of the green actual line is only there because of the limitations of the 2.5bar MAP, boost kept climbing):
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fletcher0780
Veteran Member
It turns out my VNT actuator was a bit sticky, it had a notchy feel when you pushed it down, it would stop. then you pushed a bit harder and it would go all the way down. I tried the oven cleaner with turbo still mounted method, to no avail. Then I pulled the turbo, took it apart, and sprayed the VNT mechanism with oen cleaner. I let it soak in for a few minutes, added some more, the rinsed it in hot water. But the grace of god, I didn't lose any pieces down the drain. I didn't know the mechanism could just fall apart. As I was rinsing it, I noticed one of the rollers came off. I immediately pulled it out of the sink and carefully set it on my makeshift bench to continue disassembly and cleaning. It's amazing how well the oven cleaner works, the mechanism moved so freely when I reassembled the turbo I had to check a few times to make sure I had it together correct.
Before cleaning:
After cleaning:
I also started on my front brake project. I mounted the rotors, calipers, and plumbed the new calipers. I started pulling off the old MC, but got stuck on one line. I need to get a flare wrench so I dont mangle it. I'm really looking forward to better brakes. Not sure if it's only my car, but man, the brakes suck. They are all in good condition and working well, they are just terrible. Maybe it's the pads or something?
Compare rotors:
New brakes:
Before cleaning:
After cleaning:
I also started on my front brake project. I mounted the rotors, calipers, and plumbed the new calipers. I started pulling off the old MC, but got stuck on one line. I need to get a flare wrench so I dont mangle it. I'm really looking forward to better brakes. Not sure if it's only my car, but man, the brakes suck. They are all in good condition and working well, they are just terrible. Maybe it's the pads or something?
Compare rotors:
New brakes:
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Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
It should behave much better now I hope.
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fletcher0780
Veteran Member
That did it, no more over boost, no more limp mode, no more crappy brakes. Malone suggested I get an MBC if I still see any over boosting since I'm still using the factory 2.5bar MAP. any boost level above 22PSI would exceed the limits of the MAP and trigger limp mode quickly. I've got some moderate smoke at wot, I need to play around with different IQ settings and see if I can clean it up a bit.
Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
You said your actuator is setup to stop at 14-15 in Hg. Pull a log, don't have to post it, and check your duty cycle in Group 11 please. If you've under 60-65% at 4000 RPM, then you need to shoten your rod length a bit. This will cause boost to come on sooner and can help with smoke as well.
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.
DasTeknoViking
Veteran Member
I tend to do oven cleaner on my VB every few months via egr port on the manifold. It seems like mine liked to freeze up a bit after it sat. I don't drive my B4 much and when I do I tend to be hard on it to keep it from sooting up. My tune is actually pretty smoke free. I'm out of fuel as a matter a fact.
Sent from USS Enterprise
Sent from USS Enterprise
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
Here is a log I took this morning, 3rd gear pull starting around 2000RPM's. It appears I should shorten the rod a bit?
Allthough, according to the entire log, 3rd, 4th, 5th; I am still over boosting. Perhaps I should leave the adjuster rod alone and just add the MBC to limit the top end?
Allthough, according to the entire log, 3rd, 4th, 5th; I am still over boosting. Perhaps I should leave the adjuster rod alone and just add the MBC to limit the top end?
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JFettig
Vendor
lengthen
fletcher0780
Veteran Member
You think starting with 1 turn is a good place to begin?
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JFettig
Vendor
shouldn't hurt but use a mitivac to measure before and after if you can.