MKIV TDI swap and MKII mounts - problems. Help needed

[dubCanuck1]

Hi all,

I'm running into some serious clearance issues with the rear engine mount and the vacuum diaphragm on my MKIV TDI swap into a MKII shell. I've cut away some of both the console and the mount to allow the turbo to fit and the vacuum diaphragm to clear the motor mount.

It's extremely tight and the mount would knock against the diaphragm, likely damaging it. Has anyone done this with a MKIII subframe and mounts with a MKIV TDI swap? I'd like to see pictures.

Unfortunately, the 1.8T swaps out there aren't of much help as they only have the exhaust manifold on the rear of the engine and just have to reroute the I/C piping to fix the problem. See below for my quandry.

Actually, if someone has a MKIII 4 cyl or VR6 rear mount picture from the top pointing down at the mount itself, that would be great. I know I'll have to cutaway some of it, but if the subframe mount is smaller, it may just do the trick.

 

[bhtooefr]

There's someone on the Vortex that did an ALH A1 (Rabbit Pickup, actually), and I think they had less room to work with...

Maybe he could be tracked down?

 

[dubCanuck1]

Yeah, that's MrDave. I bought the engine from him. The problem is that the MKI cars have a different rear mount setup that I'm pretty sure can't mate to a MKII subframe (without a fabricator).

 

[Hasenwerk]

Would changing the mount to the later hydraulic style give you more clearance? I'll be at this point in about 1 month. My Country is in a Sea Container in Vancouver right now!!!

 

[dubCanuck1]

I'm wondering the same thing. I looked up a 16V MKII mount and it has only the mounting plate, then the mount falls away beneath it. I'm also wanting ton know if the later mounts go straight back from the block or if the angle out towards the passenger fender. Either one could likely do the trick for me.

 

[G60ING]

I'll grab you some pics of my setup. its is a VR6 Corrado. I'm using the Vr6 K-Frame which is the same as the mk3 K-frame and motor mounts. I'm using a 2L aba rear motor mount bracket and I had to clearance the bracket. I think the bracket will eventually crack but at this point I have a spare braket and will reenforce it then or build a custom bracket out of steel when I need to. I'll get you some pics of the bracket bolted to the motor on Sat or tomorrow evening if I get home early enough to get out in the garage

 

[dubCanuck1]

Thanks man. I appreciate it.

 

[G60ING]

I haven't forgotten about you. My plan is to finish the wiring in the engine bay and then bolt the motor in tomorrow evening.

 

[dubCanuck1]

Thanks man. To clarify for others what the problem is, I took some better pics.

 

[Hasenwerk]

If it was me, I think I would just remove more material from the lower section of the mount. You can go right down until you are even with the welded on bits - at least another 10mm to go there - that should take care of the most violent up and down movements you would ever encounter. Also, why not use a small hand grinder and just buzz a little off a of the 12 o'clock position rubber mount as well, like 2 to 3mm deep and 2 to 3mm wide. That would be more enough to make some "sideways wobble" clearance for the turbo.

 

[tdibeliever]

Seems to me that the hydro/g60 mount would solve all of your problems. I've got one on the back of my 1Z powered A2. I'll see if I can get a pic or two in the next few days to eyeball it with.

 

[G60ING]

I have a slight fitment issue too. Now that I think about it I may be able to solve it with minor modifications to the insert.

Get some pics of the G60 hyrdo mount and if it fits good I'll use that and swap K-frames with my other Corrado

 

[G60ING]

Think its possible to bend the mounting bracket and modify the rod?

 

[MrDave]

Now call me crazy,
but I know that you can clock the compressor housing,
and I know you can clock the turbine housing, but with the housing/manifold on the VNT15, that would just clock the center section, which would be bad for oiling the turbo.

But, can the VNT vaneplate be clocked with respect to the center section?

If so, that would solve the problem, wouldn't it?

-Dave

 

[dubCanuck1]

Dave, check your email. I have an equally crazy proposition.

 

[dubCanuck1]

Did you have to modify that rear console at all to have the turbo fit in there?

I have a slight fitment issue too. Now that I think about it I may be able to solve it with minor modifications to the insert.

 

[G60ING]

Did you have to modify that rear console at all to have the turbo fit in there?

if console=bracket then yes I had to cut the piss out of it. As for the mounting issue the part that it is hitting is just the rubber cover andi Think I may just remove the rubber cover and bend the mounting bracket for the wastegate control

 

[dubCanuck1]

OK, some more work and I decided to put that gray matter to the test to try to resolve the motor mounts problem. But first the pics.

I "convinced" the rear mount to allow me clearance. After all was said and done, there was about 1/4" clearance for the vacuum diaphragm of the turbo.

A little hammer work to clear more space....

Here's the clearance in the end...Pretty tight.

Ah, so here's my grand scheme that should work, if my geometry's correct. The pictures are hand drawn, but you should get the idea.
Now....Block and head are on the right side. Up is up. You're looking from the passenger side.

After....If this works, I think it would actually be easier to make the diaphragm point up. The lever would be more flattened (2x the angle of the one shown). With the extension too, it could be positioned above the EGR flange, even using the bolts from the flange for mounting.

If the hair-brained scheme works, I'll be able to use a regular, uncut mount to hold up my carved console.

Larger versions of the pictures are available here:
http://www.canadubs.com/images/large/DSC00613.jpg
http://www.canadubs.com/images/large/DSC00614.jpg

 

[G60ING]

Let me know how it works because I plan to hold off on doing anything until I pull the motor out again in a week or two.

 

[dubCanuck1]

Will do.