MKIV Front Door Re-Adjust, No Fender Removal!!

[KrashDH]

Alright I set upon this adventure thinking that there has GOT to be a way to get to those triple square bolts without removing half of the front end and side of the car.

It's annoying when your door starts to droop and can cause all sorts of alignment headaches, noises, wind, sealing/moisture issues. But, I've been neglecting it for a couple of years. Was time to bite the bullet with all the work I've put into the car lately.

Now, by no means was my door as bad as some of y'alls, but my OCD said to fix it. Here's a couple of before shots:

Top:

Bottom:

Mid Gap:

Bottom Gap:

So here's a run down of the tools you will need:

• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8"-1/4" reducer
• 11mm socket (1/4" drive, short as you can find)
• 1/4" swivel u-joint
• 1/4" extension, about 4". i chose a wobble extension but you could probably get by with a standard extension
• 7/16 open end wrench, with ratcheting end (if possible for ease)
• Carbyne Super Short Triple Square bits (M8 for this job):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQQ2QL1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the basic setup of tools you will need to get to the bolts:

First thing that I did was remove the interior kick panel. There is a triple square back there that you need to get to on the bottom kind of behind the hood latch.

There are a few write ups on removing that so I won't go into detail, but it's easy. You can wedge a flathead screwdriver on the back side of the handle where there is a plastic "keeper" cap. Pop this cap out and the handle slides off. Then the trim can just be removed, it snaps in place. I'm sure I broke a couple tabs removing it. Oh well.

Next thing I did was tackle the triple square bolt on the top of the door. With your 7/16 box end (ratcheting side) you can put your bit into it. There's a small shoulder on the bit that keeps it from sliding out while you're trying to get it in place. Go UNDER the door hinge to get to it:

I was lucky and with some brute strength it broke free no issues. I wore a glove in case something went flying and let go to protect my hand.

Continued next post...

 

[KrashDH]

Now comes the fun part, but figuring out the right combo of tools is now made easy!

You don't want to hook everything together though and try to insert the bit into the bolt head. You won't get good bite. So the first thing to do is open the door all the way and install the bit:

Then you can install the u-joint, 11mm socket, and extension over the end of the short bit. You can see an old arm band I slipped over to for fender protection while breaking it free. I will emphasize...do NOT try and use the 1/4" drive directly into the M8 spline bit. I will share at the end.

From there you can now connect the ratchet:

Ensure that you are in the spline and you can crack it loose. Make sure to use a cloth or something to protect the fender and door if you are close to it.

Once you've done that, move to the inside. You can push the wire mounts to the side and get the bit and assembly in there. I chose to use a 3/8" drive all the way this time so I could get it gutentight when it came time.

Break it loose:

If you're working by yourself, you just want to loosen everything enough so you can make an adjustment without trying to hold the door in place while re-tightening that inner spline bolt. I was solo, and it was kind of a pain to hold the door, and it was a lot of guess and checking.

Once you've got it where you want it, tighten the inside triple square:

Then the bottom:

Then finally the top:

You're likely going to have to re-adjust the door latch now, which is fairly straight forward

 

[KrashDH]

Check your door alignment.

I couldn't get it perfect because I was working alone, but I got it damn close.

Top:

Door Gap:

I'm guessing this will get better over time as the seal learns it's "new" home.

Oh, and for the small M8 Triple Square bit, here's why you use a socket around the outside instead of using the inside drive...
The walls are not thick at all because of how low profile the bit is. That much force on the ID drive will cause point loading, which will be a stress riser, then it will explode on you:

I hope this will help anyone who wants to tackle this the easy way!

 

[STDOUBT]

Saved.
Thank You!!!
I move this How-To be enshrined in the How-To's!

 

[KrashDH]

Saved.
Thank You!!!
I move this How-To be enshrined in the How-To's!

Out course! I'm glad it worked out the way it did.
How to shrine would be an honor!

 

[snakeye]

Great writeup! Just did this job today, and oh man what a difference. The door was haunted, made all sorts of creaking and knocking noise, and now it's completely silent. Here's a few remarks about the job :

I think you can get away with just loosening the bottom hinge only. That's all that shifted as i realigned the door, top one didn't move at all.

I couldn't be bothered looking for the tools to make the swivel bit work, so I used the wrench on the bottom. Was a little tricky, but I have small hands so it worked.

My bolts were definitely M10 triple square, not M8.

 

[J_dude]

Thanks for bringing this one up! I need to do this, my driver door is wayy out of alignment

 

[BamaB4S]

Check your door alignment.

I couldn't get it perfect because I was working alone, but I got it damn close.

Top:

Door Gap:

I'm guessing this will get better over time as the seal learns it's "new" home.

Oh, and for the small M8 Triple Square bit, here's why you use a socket around the outside instead of using the inside drive...
The walls are not thick at all because of how low profile the bit is. That much force on the ID drive will cause point loading, which will be a stress riser, then it will explode on you:

I hope this will help anyone who wants to tackle this the easy way!

Good job!