Mk7 High Mileage Thread

[marcboxx]

Could you get some more details about the source of this software from your shop and post it? This is a widespread issue and dealers are unable to either solve it with a software patch or obtain replacement DEF tanks from VW. This would be invaluable information to post.

I will see what I can find, but I'm not even sure it REALLY worked quite frankly as after the update the ECM went on the "blink" and I STILL do not have the car back because my Indy is so backed up with other cars. I had to get the ECM changed out to a new one and the ECM shop in Florida THINKS the ECM going bad had something to do with the DEF tank not updating itself when filled. Anyway, the shop got the software from some site online as I paid him $350 or the cost of the 1yr subscription to download it. When he loaded it...the VAG system told him that their was now 100K miles remaining before the need for a top up. Super strange if you ask me...

 

[RIP TDI]

I will see what I can find, but I'm not even sure it REALLY worked quite frankly as after the update the ECM went on the "blink" and I STILL do not have the car back because my Indy is so backed up with other cars. I had to get the ECM changed out to a new one and the ECM shop in Florida THINKS the ECM going bad had something to do with the DEF tank not updating itself when filled. Anyway, the shop got the software from some site online as I paid him $350 or the cost of the 1yr subscription to download it. When he loaded it...the VAG system told him that their was now 100K miles remaining before the need for a top up. Super strange if you ask me...

The DEF tank level sensor is a known problem and replacement tanks are on an epically long back order. The theory of a failing ECM causing the faulty DEF level readings is unlikely. The software patch creating the 100K mileage remaining reading is likely intentional and an imperfect and temporary solution to the problem until the tank is replaced or repaired. The 100K may be a static reading and require physical measurement of actual DEF level or interpretation of DEF level based on previous history of DEF usage vis-à-vis mileage in order to avoid running the DEF dry.

Thanks in advance for keep us updated on your progress with this issue as well as any more info you receive about the source of the patch. This is really valuable information for the rest of us whose DEF level sensors are waiting to fail.

 

[BΞΝ]

I'm at 194thousand and counting in my 2015 golf se

 

[r90sKirk]

Just hit 200k this week on 2015 GSW 6M - running great

 

[marcboxx]

UPDATE on Texas MK7: 229,000 miles and holding unfortunately. Currently with the dealer this week which has determined that the ECM has indeed experienced catastrophic failure. A NEW ECM has been ordered from Wolfsburg, Germany and be reprogrammed by the dealer upon arrival with assistance from VW's central VAG computer system based in Germany. Cost for this repair was quoted at $1,850 - $250 (goodwill discount). Further to reducing the expense, I have a 1st gen Porsche Cayenne Turbo for which another $300 in class action lawsuit settlement money will come in handy for this repair bringing the bill down to $1,300.

Symptoms of a failing or failed ECM included:
* No Start
* Rough Idle
* Check Engine Light, Flashing Glowplug Light, Tire Indicator Light, Airbag Light, etc.

Note: replacing a bad or failed ECM with a used one from a salvaged vehicle WILL get you started and driving, but with all the above listed less No Start and the Rough Idle. You will have problems with A/C intermittently working (buttons not working when commanded) along with other onboard options having problems (ie. sunroof inopt). Much of these issues is a result of the used ECM NOT coded to your original vehicles VIN or the IMMO (car's specific security immobilization). While a mail away service can disable the IMMO, it will be hit and miss on the success rate of coded your vehicle's VIN and corresponding options to the used ECM from a similar donor vehicle.

 

[Cuzoe]

@marcboxx At the risk of going off topic, the issues you describe with a replacement ECM are a mix of ECU and BCM controlled functions. What is being replaced?

An ECU from another car won't work without doing an immo adaptation at minimum. Engine will start then immediately turn off.

A BCM from another car will have no impact on how the engine runs, although lots of other functions will be weird/wrong/not working until you match coding and adaptations.

In a quick search I found used ECU for under $200 and used BCM under $100. Dealer process to flash, adapt immo & component protection, code and parameterize is the same used or new. All of it is done via guided function. Labor rates can vary wildly but I paid 3 hours labor for BCM replacement. I would expect to pay the same for ECU. The physical replacement is easier, and coding will be marginally quicker but there's still the time to get the car in the bay and connected to consider.

Then again there's also real value in the convenience of dropping your car off and then getting it back in working order. My intention isn't to persuade either way, just providing info for folks that might be in a similar situation.

 

[marcboxx]

@marcboxx At the risk of going off topic, the issues you describe with a replacement ECM are a mix of ECU and BCM controlled functions. What is being replaced?

An ECU from another car won't work without doing an immo adaptation at minimum. Engine will start then immediately turn off.

A BCM from another car will have no impact on how the engine runs, although lots of other functions will be weird/wrong/not working until you match coding and adaptations.

In a quick search I found used ECU for under $200 and used BCM under $100. Dealer process to flash, adapt immo & component protection, code and parameterize is the same used or new. All of it is done via guided function. Labor rates can vary wildly but I paid 3 hours labor for BCM replacement. I would expect to pay the same for ECU. The physical replacement is easier, and coding will be marginally quicker but there's still the time to get the car in the bay and connected to consider.

Then again there's also real value in the convenience of dropping your car off and then getting it back in working order. My intention isn't to persuade either way, just providing info for folks that might be in a similar situation.

Yes, all solid points in fact! I went the way you describe locating a comparable working unit from Ebay from another 2015 TDI “SE” MK7 but finding the costs all over the place with no guarantees of successful service outside the factory / dealer network. What I’ve found utilizing a source out of Ft Myers, FL called ECU Maverick is that while they had success in bypassing the IMMO which in turn allowed the engine to start, run and drive without issue. They were not successful in reprogramming my VIN into the used unit. This in turn produces all the warning lights and symptoms mentioned in previous post. The cost was marginal at $400 + UPS or FedEx traceable shipping. Yet the time spent with having the car down so long and the procedure not effectively solving ALL the problems on both the first and YES the 2nd try (they sent a backup unit which did not start the car at all) were enough for me to resort to getting things done right by way the dealer w/ suppprt from VW AG in Germany.

Clearlake VW (my primary servicing dealer during Dieselgate warranty term) has had 3 TDI’s in in the last 2 months with same issues. Once a new one was installed with full factory flash they are all running as factory delivered. Heading on another 6,000 mile road-trip in August and quite frankly prefer that piece of mind over going the used ECM and praying for a miracle reflash from either and outside party or the dealer.

The dealer will charge you $350 to perform the reflash on a used ECM with no guarantees it will work at 50-50. They will then charge the full amount to obtain a new one from Germany and flash it with the factory VAG setting for the additional $1,600 to $1,800. Just not worth the risk and added expense as I’ve gone through this now myself with no success.

The MK7 version of the TDI is beginning a cycle of difficulty in being fully supported in the US outside the 130,000 mile Dieselgate warranty. My primary mechanic who himself has a full VAG system in his shop could not successfully determine how to deal with the ECM once it had failed to even communicate. This resulted in a diagnosis of the ECM needing replacement.

Added to the above, replacement parts
have been quite expensive and very difficult to source locally either via the dealer network or wholesale outlets nationwide.

Many times I’ve resorted to Europe for more expensive hard to get items usually from VW “factory test vehicles” with little to no mileage on them parted out for penny’s in the dollar compared to US prices and limited stock options.

In a nutshell, she is still loved and I feel like after the work I’ve put in the last 3+ yrs she is in a better position now to deliver 500,000 miles if I keep her that long.

The only things not changed to this point and remain original to the vehicle have been:

1. the physical diesel motor and some of it’s primary components (tranny would have lasted sans the hole from errant road debris),
2. the complete exhaust and emissions / DEF systems,
3. one of TWO radiators (yes we have 2 coupled together as primary and secondary units), and
4. the interior dash related components /in the cabin.

What I will say is that each vehicle will be hit and miss depending on the mileage and level of care. But without a doubt I do believe there is a level of planned obsolescence built into some of the systems and parts of the MK7 one will have to consider over its lifespan.

I still love mine because it’s unique, Uber fuel efficient and in a world now where electric cars are not yet viable choice options for long distance journeys and prices on new cars and interest rates are at an all time high. I recommend still investing in your TDI until she either gives up the ghost or inflation diminishes acceptably enough to consider replacement options.

 

[Cuzoe]

My car is rounding 60,000 miles... my digital dash shows 31,000. Adding them up I'm nearing 100k, can I join the high mileage club?

@marcboxx

Spoiler: Off topic stuff, haha

I wish my dealer would do programming for $350 (not that I'm currently in need of having anything flashed) but labor rates around here are typically in the $150-175 range so the 3 hour flat rate ends up around $500.

The additional $1,600 to $1,800 is quite a markup though, MSRP is about $915 for the ECU. I've ordered parts that were only in stock in Germany. The shipping between their warehouses is their cost. That being said, called my local-ish go to VW parts service center and they show more than 10 ECU's available in the states, PN 04L997022N. Our cars would have delivered with older, since replaced part numbers but that's normal. The later parts are compatible, and VW likely doesn't have any of the earlier parts available.

A warehouse in Virginia shows 8 of them, a dealer service center in Wisconsin shows 2... I didn't have my guy keep going down the list but there were more. Best ETA he could get for me, in SoCal, if I ordered by 2pm today would be Monday 6/26. The cost was $768 after taxes.

I can't speak to what any vendor offers on our ECU's. My concern would be that they can't actually get the right software loaded. They could look up my VIN but (unlike when a dealer connects to my car) they won't know the exact software my car has with regard to emissions fixes. Phase 1 was just a software change but Phase 2 added sensors. If the used ECU came from a car that was not the same Phase, regardless of trim level, I would expect you'll have problems.

The ECU is the same S, SE, SEL. It's all in the programming (software, coding and adaptation) done by the dealer. I completely understand a dealer isn't going to guarantee a used ECU will work... they don't know if that ECU has a problem. But assuming a used in ECU in working order the programming should work 99% of the time (I would go 100% but that's risky from a statistical point of view )

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

With the Mk7 being the last VW diesel to be sold in the US, is there any effort to document the odometer readings on these cars to track their existence?


I'm 30 miles short of 100K, and hope to run the car for another 200K. I bought the car as a daily commuter and have faced no issues to date. Others have likely completed the same distance or further, but may have experienced issues or failures along the way. I know some of the other car forums do something similar where they have the running lists and log milestones. Is there any interest in this?

The 2015 Sportwagen I recently bought from a fellow club member is coming up on 128,000. Just replaced the timing belt.

 

[marcboxx]

Update: Still at the dealer BUT picking it up this week as the repairs are finally complete. Final bill: $1,925 and includes NEW ECM direct from Wolfsburg along with factory flash (requires 150 miles of driving to “relearn” the new unit). An “upper” O2 sensor, an ambient temperature sensor (up by the radiator) which both of these eliminates the check engine light. The ambient temp sensor will also directly affect the operation and effectiveness of the AC which in my case did not allow for the recirculation button and flap to operate in denying fresh air into the cabin space which provides a much “cooler” cabin in summer months. Then finally a seat position sensor which directly affects the airbag light on in the dash. Sensor detects the position of the seat and sends a signal to the “side” airbag in the event of a crash.

 

[pedroYUL]

Look at the dealer, that's how you throw parts at a problem properly!

 

[Cuzoe]

Glad to hear it's fixed... confused by some of it.

From the 150 miles to learn I gather that we are talking about a new ECU and not a new BCM (I was confused about this earlier). Not sure why they got one from Wolfsburg and not one of several places with stock here in the US.

Faulty O2 sensor will for cause a CEL at minimum. Could also contribute to the car running poorly depending on how it failed.

Ambient temp sensor won't cause a CEL though. It's connected to the BCM (not the ECU) and you can actually select it as not installed. I don't know how that would affect the air conditioning, but that's reasonable. I might experiment this evening .

Anything to do with restraint system will cause the airbag light. Even disconnecting the airbag light connector lol.

 

[marcboxx]

Glad to hear it's fixed... confused by some of it.

From the 150 miles to learn I gather that we are talking about a new ECU and not a new BCM (I was confused about this earlier). Not sure why they got one from Wolfsburg and not one of several places with stock here in the US.

Faulty O2 sensor will for cause a CEL at minimum. Could also contribute to the car running poorly depending on how it failed.

Ambient temp sensor won't cause a CEL though. It's connected to the BCM (not the ECU) and you can actually select it as not installed. I don't know how that would affect the air conditioning, but that's reasonable. I might experiment this evening .

Anything to do with restraint system will cause the airbag light. Even disconnecting the airbag light connector lol.

Ambient temp sensor will throw a code P0073 which triggers the CEL. My wires to the sensor were severed triggering the CEL, so the dealer agreed to replace the sensor I had purchased while also repairing the wiring at the same price quoted.

 

[Nutty 5.0]

Just turned 151k.

 

[740GLE]

Ambient temp sensor will throw a code P0073 which triggers the CEL. My wires to the sensor were severed triggering the CEL, so the dealer agreed to replace the sensor I had purchased while also repairing the wiring at the same price quoted.

Was going to say this as well, remember everything is tied to emissions, its a delicate balance and the number one thing the ECU can't control is the ambient temps, so it has to react to it.

 

[Zyra]

My 2015 A3 tdi just hit 295 000km which translates to 185 000 miles
Car has been deleted since 176k km (110k miles)
Things that failed on me
HVAC actuator
AC temp sensor
All 4 wheel bearings
All 4 struts
New battery
Trunk wiring due to opening and closing trunk
Headlight level sensor
DMF at 159 000 miles
Starter and alternator let go at 180 000miles
Turbo blew at 185 000miles replaced it with a bolt on Gtd1456vz have not retuned yet,sounds different but cant really tell if it’s any different than oem one since it’s just as slow as it was

 

[Prince]

My 2015 has 97,000 km's or 60,000 miles

Bought it in 2018 with 49,000 km's on it.

In 2019 it needed a def wiring harness and a new battery. Both covered under warranty. I then bought an extended warranty that expires in 1 year.

New brakes in 2020 .

Last winter the hose to the rear window washers broke. Fixed that with a piece of hose.

This summer the water pump went. Replaced that and the timing belt at the same time.

Now have a leak in one tire.

It has been a good car for coming up on 9 years in a couple of months.

 

[Nuje]

Keep your eye on the wiring behind the little foil "package" near the DEF injector; those are notorious for getting doinked when doing TB change, leading to sadness.

 

[r90sKirk]

212k this week

 

[15TDICommuter]

Will make an effort to update this list before the 2023 holiday season; if you haven’t submitted at all or haven’t provided an update since our last update please do - thanks!

 

[marcboxx]

UPDATE: 245,000 miles now after 2 major trips earlier this summer (Houston - LA) and fall (Houston-Glacier Nat'l Park & Yellowstone, Montana). All went well on the drive up to as far as Sheridan, Wyoming almost to Montana where Little Big Horn sits along I-90. The warning light for the DEF came on at 600 miles remaining before no restart. This light went on and off intermittently while up in Montana forcing me to jump through hoops to find a shop that could replace the DEF fluid line to no avail. Shops up in the mountain west / plains are just too inundated with work that no one could take the car in let alone perform repairs for 3 to 5 weeks. Ended up praying the error was indeed intermittent and not counting down to a complete no restart. Everytime the car was shut down for a time like an evening the next morning the error would not immediately come back until 100 or so miles later, but the countdown continued going from 600 to 500 and then down to 350 and then if would either clear itself with no more faults or errors and sort of reset itself. Finally I got her back home to Houston and had my primary mechanic perform the repair with no further errors or codes since.

 

[r90sKirk]

UPDATE - 216k as of 10/25/23

 

[shortydog]

Currently at 154k miles, just had the DSG service done on the Golf.

 

[Freeze Plug]

Hitting 258k tomorrow

 

[Scooter Drives a Wagen]

I just bought a Black 2015 GSW SEL with 128K about 3 weeks ago in Tennessee. Right now the car has an occasional CEL and left DRL is out. Dealer is sending me a driver for the DRL as this happened before I picked it up.

The DSG transmission can be a bit jerky at times when going low speeds and shifting through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. Hopefully whatever powertrain issues this car has will poke their ugly heads out before 165K as this car came with an extended warranty. Other than that the only other issues I have are minor, mainly the front door speakers buzzing/rattling and the driver's side headlight bulb being loose and out of focus.

Also, interestingly, the previous owner had a TDIClub Forum license plate frame installed. I wonder if they're still around...

UPDATE: I hit a deer going 60 MPH about a week ago, the insurance is totaling my car. It had 161k on the clock. All the damage is cosmetic and the car drives fine, but it's still enough to be a total loss.

The only non maintenance thing I had to do to the car was replace a Crank Position Sensor, which I replaced myself for around $100. This happened in July. The DSG got worse with the jerkiness up until the car started to stall randomly and I figured out the sensor was bad. The transmission shifted much better after replacing the sensor.

As far as the other issues goes, the occasional CEL eventually went away until the car started stalling due to the crank sensor. I never fixed the speaker rattling, it didn't annoy me enough to warrant replacement. Part of the rattling was because of loose window switches in the driver's door. The headlight was a simple fix that only required removing the assembly to reseat the bulb.

I hate to see my Golf go, it's been a great car over these two years. I'm not sure if I'll be getting another TDI after this one. If I do, it's not gonna be a dieselgate one. VW really neutered those ones.

 

[Tdimrtwo]

Now 217k miles. Routine maintenance, and a clockspring replaced under warranty. I am currently getting an excessive DPF regens code, so a cleaning, replacement, or delete will be happening really soon.

 

[pedroYUL]

120k on the Passat and 139k on the GSW

 

[Kosa]

180k on my 2015 Golf TDi S 6M. No major problem so far. I use VAG DPF to monitor regens and oil ash residue now sits at 61g (77%). How long can I expect the DPF to function before it fails? My daily commute is mostly highway (~70mph) and at least 130mi/day.

 

[marcboxx]

274,000 this week…will be getting the 2nd timing belt installed along with replacement of the DPF, EGR and EGR cooler next week. Having issues with regeneration as well as white smoke occasionally from the tail pipe likely pointing to the cooler finally leaking in the emissions system.

 

[ticaf]

274,000 this week…will be getting the 2nd timing belt installed along with replacement of the DPF, EGR and EGR cooler next week. Having issues with regeneration as well as white smoke occasionally from the tail pipe likely pointing to the cooler finally leaking in the emissions system.

Do you have all that miles on the original DPF?