Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
2024.03.28 update (links to way later in this thread)
Winter is all but wrapped up here in the northern hemisphere, so what better time to post a heated-steering-wheel retrofit thread.
On a scale of "change the trim panel around your shifter" to "retrofit DCC", this skews much closer to the former. Big thanks to @Cuzoe for helping with parts and general "just-do-it"-ness, and this thread over at Vortex (that revolved a lot more around whether this would work in non-Climatronic cars, and had a lot of unknowns for a long time; hence this write-up).
Reader's Digest condensed version (note: North American GSW TDI Highline (SEL) trim, so has Climatronic - which may be a prerequisite):
Parts:
Winter is all but wrapped up here in the northern hemisphere, so what better time to post a heated-steering-wheel retrofit thread.
On a scale of "change the trim panel around your shifter" to "retrofit DCC", this skews much closer to the former. Big thanks to @Cuzoe for helping with parts and general "just-do-it"-ness, and this thread over at Vortex (that revolved a lot more around whether this would work in non-Climatronic cars, and had a lot of unknowns for a long time; hence this write-up).
Reader's Digest condensed version (note: North American GSW TDI Highline (SEL) trim, so has Climatronic - which may be a prerequisite):
- Get the parts: Steering wheel, clockspring, 18G wire, 14-pin connector (or adapter harness). VCDS needed to do some coding.
- Remove steering wheel (airbag first, of course; and whether you disconnect battery like you should or not, I will leave between you and your deity of choice) and trim around steering wheel, as well as lower under the dash to gain access to fuse panel.
- Tap 12V and add a ground wire.
- Move wires around on connector.
- Replace clockspring.
- Replace steering wheel.
- Flip two bits in two bytes.
- Turn it on.
Parts:
- Steering wheel
- There are many Mk7 heated steering wheels out there, off of Passat, Atlas, Tiguan, etc. Part number I order was 5G0419091FH (although my research indicated that 5G0419091AA or 5G0419091AB also have heating element). You can tell from photos of the SW that there's a little two-wire connector under the airbag.
The "...FH" that I ordered had shifter paddles, but my car's a 6MT, so I had to remove the bezel to get at the screws that hold in the paddles, but having done that a few times in the past, it's pretty easy.
- There are many Mk7 heated steering wheels out there, off of Passat, Atlas, Tiguan, etc. Part number I order was 5G0419091FH (although my research indicated that 5G0419091AA or 5G0419091AB also have heating element). You can tell from photos of the SW that there's a little two-wire connector under the airbag.
- Clockspring:
- This is the part that had me confounded for the longest time. What you're looking for is a clockspring that has the heating element connector (accepts the above-mentioned two-wire connector from the steering wheel).
- @Cuzoe (who I thank for his research and help, but also question (myself, if not him) for goading me into half of these retrofits....and then subsequently thank profusely again once I get it all together and working ) discovered that NAR cars (Mk7 Golf anyway) most typically have Valeo signal / wiper stalks, and thus come stock with a 5Q0953569A clockspring. Therefore, the proper clockspring for our cars is 5Q0953569B (since superseded by 5Q0953569C, if you're ordering a dealer).
(Edit: See @Cuzoe's post below where he goes into excellent detail on clocksprings)
(Part number on the stalks in my car, which I did not remove or change:
- The other potential option is 5Q0953549D - which is much cheaper (at least in the USA - around $200 from the dealer, but for some reason, over $600 in Canada?!). These are apparently spec'd on RoW cars, and are paired with stalks made by Costal.
(which can be had for as little as $60-$80 on eBay or ProxyParts or the like. Aliexpress also has the 5Q0953549D for about $100USD, so buying clockspring + stalks might be less expensive in some instances.
General rule of thumb from what I've gathered: Do a scan of the car, and if the Module 16 - Steering Wheel returns a *569 part number, stick with *569 (B or C). If your scan returns *549, stick with *549 ("D" seems to be the appropriate appendage).
(Comparison of the *569A clockspring that came stock on my car, and the replacement *569B - note the heater connection on the face, as well as the two heavier wiring pins on the *569B on the right).
Stock *569A clockspring on left; heated *569B on right
- @Cuzoe (who I thank for his research and help, but also question (myself, if not him) for goading me into half of these retrofits....and then subsequently thank profusely again once I get it all together and working ) discovered that NAR cars (Mk7 Golf anyway) most typically have Valeo signal / wiper stalks, and thus come stock with a 5Q0953569A clockspring. Therefore, the proper clockspring for our cars is 5Q0953569B (since superseded by 5Q0953569C, if you're ordering a dealer).
- This is the part that had me confounded for the longest time. What you're looking for is a clockspring that has the heating element connector (accepts the above-mentioned two-wire connector from the steering wheel).
- Wiring:
- Our NAR cars come with a 16-pin connector on the clockspring (5Q0953569A), while the heated SW clockspring has a 14-pin connector, where two of the pins are much heavier-gauge (for the heating element wires).
- I purchased a wiring adapter harness from Kufatec, but once I got it, saw what it was and what needed to be done, realized I could've saved myself ~$100USD by doing it myself. You'd need a 14-pin connector (5Q0972726), repair wire terminals for those two heavier-gauge wires (dealer from whom you'd order the 5Q0972726 connector should be able to tell you what terminal you'd need), and then transfer the other wires from the pre-existing 16-pin connector to the newer 14-pin iteration. (image taken from this post/thread over at the 'tex; big thanks to the folks there for providing inspiration that this was do-able)
Or, put another way (colors may vary); stock = 16-pin:- Pin 1 (16-pin) red/white to Pin 2 (14-pin)
- Pin 2 (16-pin) brown to Pin 4 (14-pin)
- Pin 3 (16-pin) orange/brown to Pin 5 (14-pin)
- Pin 4 (16-pin) orange/green to 6 (14-pin)
- Pin 5 (16-pin) black/white to Pin 7 (14-pin)
- Pin 6 (16-pin) black/red (if existing) to Pin 13 (14-pin)
- Pin 7 (16-pin) purple/red to Pin 12 (14-pin)
- Pin 8 (16- pin) purple/blue to Pin 14 (14-pin)
- Pin 11 (16-pin) blue/grey to Pin 9 (14-pin)
- Pin 14 (16-pin) black/grey to Pin 10 (14-pin)
- Pin 16 (16-pin) black to Pin 11 (14-pin)
- The only additional wires needed are +12V from a Terminal 30 connection, and ground.
- Factory position is adding a fuse at position SC2, but that looks like a LOT of work, so I took the path of much lesser resistance (electricity pun not intended) and simply used a "add a circuit" fuse tap on SC24 (30A fuse for sunroof and sunshade - chances of me overloading that by using both of those at the same time I'm using heated steering wheel are fairly slim.
- Ground wire I attached to one of the 10mm bolts that secures the fuse panel to the supporting metal substructure.
Showing SC 24 position (disregard fuse tap in this photo; that's from a different retrofit)
- Fuse tap added; ground wire attached to bolt similar to the grey bolt in upper-left
- Coding:
- Really not much to it.
(This was probably helped significantly by the fact that I was using used parts. I don't know how much (if any) parameterization would be necessary with new-new parts, but used were cheaper ($300 for SW; $150 for clockspring, half of which was shipping...which took three weeks), and worked well for me.)- Module 08 (HVAC) - Coding - Long Coding Helper (and say "yes" to the "trying experimental features" to see more descriptions of bits)
- Byte11: Add check to bit2 and bit3 (not sure that bit3 does anything, but I figured, why not)
- Byte13: Not sure if this adds anything, but I turned those bytes on as well.
- Byte11: Add check to bit2 and bit3 (not sure that bit3 does anything, but I figured, why not)
- Module 08 (HVAC) - Coding - Long Coding Helper (and say "yes" to the "trying experimental features" to see more descriptions of bits)
- Really not much to it.
- Activating:
- Note: Car has to be running for heated seats and heated SW to heat up; simply turning on ignition will not activate those heaters
- Press MENU button on HVAC controls (embarrassingly, as I was trying to get the heated SW option to show up in my MIB display, and being completely dumbfounded as to how to possibly do that, I had no idea this button existed, despite looking directly at it every time I've adjusted the heat or fan speed ).
- Anyway, once you press that, you should get the steering wheel icon showing up at the bottom of the screen. Most likely white (off).
Give it a tap, it turns yellow, and in a couple minutes, you've got heat!
- And this can be verified in the Advanced Measuring Values of Module-16 (Steering Wheel):
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