Ever tried to get a W2A IC on ambient temp, while the water its using is the same as for the engine coolant?if you're IATs are 110f cruising... i would loo
On the separate circuit, the radiator and pump only needs to keep up with cruising heat load.I've thought the same about coolant/water ratios, and a dedicated circuit would be far easier to manage...it's a good callout for sure.
I'm increasingly becoming a fan of just dumping that out atmospheric rather than putting it into the intake post-MAFbut would need to figure out a PCV connection somehow
I did, but I couldn't find anyone that did both nor any reason to suggest they're both needed. My take is, the brace will for sure keep the shaft from moving at all. The only other thing I considered was the "case brace" that literally holds the entire case together. One of the suppliers for said brace, only recommends it above 700Nm torque, which I should be under on this setup.Cool. Did you consider doing both the insert and the external brace on the 02Q? I just watched a YouTube vid from a shop that did that to a project car. I'd love to have the IE short runner intake manifold for my 07K. They don't give them away, unfortunately.
I'm not sure exactly how much of a real effect it has, but I've seen/heard mentioned before if running to atmosphere you're technically asking the piston to return to BDC with crankcase pressure of at least 1bar whereas if PCV is plumbed to intake you have a vacuum so piston has <1bar to push back down against...in theory.I'm increasingly becoming a fan of just dumping that out atmospheric rather than putting it into the intake post-MAF
After knocking the piston rings out of a single cylinder twice and ending up with a gallon of oil in my CCV catch can both times, it is pretty obvious how a lot of runaways happen... starting with blowby from broken rings or cracked pistons
No probs I've used a cuna model charge cooler pump has it's bigger and more flow, I tried to fit a cwa50 pump but couldn't get it to work, I'll look into this routeI believe in my notes they use a different part number gasket, so could be not worth the effort.
I think doing a dedicated front-mounted radiator (in the bumper), and a dedicated reservoir so that it's fully separated from the engine loop could show some real value in temp drops. That is the route I'll go.
Also, not a bad idea to get your AC condenser replaced if it looks anything like mine with 107k miles of use.
Have you mount intercooler on frount ? I have crbc im questinion watercooler delete to intercoerWell, that's good info to know!
I still have CRUA pump running mine, but know for sure my AC condenser is blocking a good bit or airflow to the radiator. It's on my list of things to replace because the fins are not traditional radiator fins that are easier to straighten and fix. That, with a dedicated front-mount cooler will show some interesting data that I'll be sure to log before and after.
I've fully "deleted" the A2W radiator (cut the middle out and left the plastic ends, so that the main radiator and AC condenser still have mountings), and installed a very large traditional FMIC. The factory charge cooler (intake manifold) is still there, and does exhibit a bit of heat soak in normal driving without any coolant in there. During spirited driving though, charge temps come down to match the FMIC temps.Have you mount intercooler on frount ? I have crbc im questinion watercooler delete to intercoer![]()