Diesel do produce heat. The heat it does produce most it used for combustion.This why they are more efficient then gas engineNot exactly. Flash point is a little different, but possibly points to an inverse relationship. For example, gasoline fumes can ignite from a match, and the result is a huge flame that is far hotter than the initial match. Diesel will not do this. But I am not a chemist, so I am just speculating.
In more laymen's terms, think about how long it takes for a diesel engine to warm up compared to a gas engine. This is largely due to the lack of heat they produce.ii
Additionally, gasoline engines generally don't use VNT style turbos, because the extra heat from a gas engine makes VNT unreliable. Diesels can generally get away with them because they run cooler.
Of course they produce heat, just not as much as a gasoline engine.Diesel do produce heat. The heat it does produce most it used for combustion.This why they are more efficient then gas engine
Of course they produce heat, just not as much as a gasoline engine.
It looks like during normal operation,TDI EGTs will reach 900f, and 1200f during a DPF regen. Comparatively, a stock WRX will reach 1450f. Obviously neither is cold, BUT that ranges between 250 and 550f higher temps for a stock gas motors.
Exactly. This all points to an enjoy that is producing less specific heat than a gas equivalent, thus less likely to cause heat related issues like coking the oil.Most of the heat that is produce is used for combustion. That why they take longer to warm up.
On real cold day. If you let a diesel idel over a time you see the temperature gauge start to drop in temperature.
I was one of the people with a rattle/resonance noise. I finally broke down and took my car to the dealer's service place for them to try to find what might be causing it. As expected they drove the car under my described conditions when the noise appears and could not reproduce it. However, I took everything out of the car before I gave it to them (as one would) which includes taking out the ProClip USA phone holder I have. Don't know if you're familiar with that holder but it has a mount that clips in between the center vent area and the top of the dashboard - it has couple of thin plastic wedges that are used to temporarily lift the top of the dashboard in order to clip the mount in place. Just google proclip usa to really see what I mean. I am now thinking that when the mount is installed it leaves just enough space for something there to start resonating when the engine vibrates at a particular frequency - moderate acceleration or driving up an incline. That is what seems to be causing it in my car I am now thinking. Unfortunately, each case is probably different and whatever might be causing it in your car most likely has nothing to do with what's happening with mine. In any case, I have 2500 miles until then next service at which point I will again remove the proclip mount and drive it around without it for a couple of days to see if the buzzing noise is gone. Proclip is great as a phone holder and I am not willing to give it up for a bit of buzzing at this point.Earlier in this thread some guys were talking about a rattling noise while driving. I have this too... I was wondering if anyone found a cause/solution to this. It's been driving me nuts for months
It does not need a clamp and did not come with one. The theory is the hose is supposed to bring hot air from the manifold area into the air box to aid in warm up times.Anyone know what this is and what its used for? It's below the air cleaner arm & one end connects to the air cleaner box and the other goes to the metal pipe. Curious to know if its need a clamp there?
Awesome thank you.It does not need a clamp and did not come with one. The theory is the hose is supposed to bring hot air from the manifold area into the air box to aid in warm up times.
When my wrx does this it's due to the click from the brake light activation switch that is released when the pedal is pushed away from it. Haven't checked to see if this car has the same type of switch.I noticed my clutch pedal on my GSW started making a click sound when released. It happens right before you let it all out. I am to reproduce it with the car turned off. If I push the clutch in just a little bit and release I can make it click pretty quick. I got down on the floor of the car to take a look, but I was not able to tell exactly where the sound was coming from. It sounds just like the click of a retractable pen. I thought about taking the bottom cover off so I could get a better look, but haven't yet. I'll probably just take it into the dealership, but fear they will give me the run around since the clutch seems to be working properly.
I have read in other posts that this can happen when it is cold outside, but this is not the case since it is pretty warm here in Cleveland and it only clicks near the end of the release.
Anyone else experience this?
Justin
No, unless it suffered some type of premature failure.Is it true that the "regen" unit or DPF on the MKVI burned out after 80k and costs 4k to replace?
So should we email VW, what email address should that be?A quick FYI for those of you who took delivery with a 30 pin MDI cable and want a lightning cable MDI. I emailed VW and they quickly responded and said one is in the mail.
I had stalling issue too, but after 10k miles the engine has loosened up and maybe I have adjusted a bit from my trucks.2. I bought the 6 speed manual. Been driving manuals for a long time now, and rather than wear the clutch out, I tend to use too little. This means that every once in a while I'll kill it coming off the line. The Golf seems to have built in a noticeable delay from the time you depress the clutch until the time a turned key will actually turn over the engine. This made for a long, embarrassing moment in the left hand turn lane this A.M.
3. Which leads directly to point 3. The key fob is made with a glaring design flaw. When inserted into the ignition with the button side facing the driver, the emergency button - you know, the one that makes the horn sound and the lights flash? - is DIRECTLY under my thumb and the primary pressure point for turning the key. If I forget to think about it, 1 time out of 5 I will engage the emergency switch in the act of starting the engine. Huge PITA.
I have noticed notchy shifts as well at 3250 miles didn't think it was before, makes me feel like I'm grinding gears, but there is no noise. I think it may just be the synchros wearring in.. Or wearing out prematurely, time will tell.The thought suddenly popped into my head (Has it always been this notchy?), so I can't compare to before, but it feels like the shifter has gotten a bit notchy; specifically when shifting from 1->2 and 2->3 and not quite so much on 3->4. 4->5 and 5->6 seem as smooth as ever, and I'll occasionally get a nice smooth shift from one of the "notchier" gears. Anyone else notice this or am I just over analyzing it on my boring drive to work.
What's a regen?The regens... Oh the regens.. They are endless, more than half the time my car is running it is in a regen, I will be coming off the interstate from a three hour drive and it will be mid regen as I shut it off, it seems endless. I realy hope that the ECU recall update will help, but I also hope they don't just further restrict fueling to eliminate particulate emissions, and then lower hp.
It's nothing, don't worry about itWhat's a regen?