Mk6 Jetta: EGR/DPF...

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Hi all! This is my first post so want to say hello to everyone!

I am having some issues with my TDI so wanted to run stuff by you guys before I start swapping stuff out.

Background: I bought my 2011 Jetta TDI right before the news broke about the diesel scandal and since the "fix" I have had to have the DPF replaced twice and the EGR and intake manifold serviced once each. ( I did this through the dealer)

I am currently seeing the P2002 and P0401 codes which is what I was seeing the first two times this happened.

I haven't driven it much since that came on but the last time I did the glow plug light came on and the car went into limp mode so now I am scared to drive it. I also have black soot at the tail pipe and it smells bad when I start it up.

I have read many forum posts and watched multiple videos on the subject trying to educate myself and I have come to the conclusion that these emission systems are pretty complicated and multiple things can cause the codes I am seeing. It sounds like the soot at the tail pipe is a definite sign of a cracked DPF if I am understanding what I have read.

I had considered selling the vehicle but I love the car and it is in great condition other than the DPF issue and it having 200k+ miles on it so I have decided to try to fix it myself this time since funds are short.

As a side note I replaced the radiator about a month ago which I assume is why I am getting P0480 code. I need to double check the plug is seated on there.

I have access to a VCDS and below is the readings for the relevant codes and my current listed mileage and soot level.

Based on my research I assume I need to replace the DPF and the EGR (and EGR cooler?) unless those can be cleaned somehow and possibly clean the intake manifold unless you guys see something from the below that makes more sense. Any advice is appreciated!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mileage: 203364 Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine (03L 997 030 P)

16:36:38 Group 241: DPF Soot load
18 ml Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume
9.9 Soot Load(g) Calculated
3.9 Soot Load(g) Measured


16:36:38 Group 108: Diesel Particle Filter
18 ml Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume
Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.)
Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.CLB
Control Module Part Number: 03L 997 030 P HW: 03L 906 019 DA
Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l TDI G000AG 9983
Software Coding: 0050078
Work Shop Code: WSC 64109 003 1048576
VCID: 3B233A68BF6F7FD3DAD-806E
3 Faults Found:

008194 - Particulate Trap Bank 1
P2002 - 007 - Efficiency Below Threshold
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100111
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 325112 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2063.14.31
Time: 07:42:25

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2231 /min
Speed: 114.0 km/h
(no units): 96.9
(no units): 35.7
(no units): 2.75
Pressure: 267 mbar
Pressure: 69 mbar

001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 001 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 15
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 325126 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2063.14.31
Time: 07:50:48

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2346 /min
Speed: 119.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.83 V
Load: 95.7 %
Load: 100.0 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 410.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 410.0 mg/str

001152 - Coolant Fan Control Circuit 1
P0480 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 325462 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 20.7°C
Temperature: 23.4°C
Temperature: 20.7°C
Lambda: 9.5 %
Lambda: 0.0 %


Readiness: 0 2 0 0 0
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
Those faults are basically a certain that youre replacing the DPF and the cooler. You can try to just replace the DPF but ive seen the EGR fault come back cause soot build up as appeared in the EGR cooler. Even after regens, it would really clear up.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Thanks for the reply @MrCypherr I have ordered the DPF and EGR filter as that is what most of the posts and videos I have read/watched seemed to indicate. I just received those and will be working on those today.

I started yesterday by taking apart the front EGR valve and throttle regulating flap to inspect and clean those and they were pretty built up with soot. From what I can see the intake manifold doesn't look too bad so I am going to leave that alone for now.

Since I ordered the parts I read a couple posts that mentioned the EGR cooler possibly needing replaced, as well, and I came across a video where someone mentioned just removing it and cleaning it (although they didn't say how other than to take off the valve first.

One more thing, when I took apart the EGR valve/throttle reg flap I noticed there was a little bit of coolant inside the hose connecting to the throttle reg flap. I did recently have a leaking radiator and did replace that and I hadn't cleaned the front of the engine off yet from where it was blowing around. Could this be due to that or should I possible look for another leak?
 

Bradm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
02,03,05, Jetta 99.5 Golf
Sounds like you would have been money ahead by just deleting it all
Maybe your egr cooler is cracked allowing coolant to get in there? Dosent seem logical it could get inside there from blowing around the outside?
If your looking for a good used egr cooler i have one here with 68k on it
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
You are more than likely gonna need a EGR cooler as well. Like I mentioned, I've seen people just put the DPF filter in and the EGR cooler fault came back. So Id say before you do all that work, Id say grab a EGR cooler as well. I dont really understand the videos and stuff that say clean them. I mean, Ive seen people clean DPFs but they come back with faults while later.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Never once had to replace an EGR cooler on one of these. I've probably replaced 100+ DPFs and low pressure EGR filter tubes for this, and it has fixed them every single time.
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
Really eh. Not doubting at all of course. I've done DPFs and tubes with those faults and that EGR fault has 9/10 times returned. After replacing the cooler, the fault never came back.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
They literally have a TSB about it... older than the whole Dieslegate nonsense. And I've been doing them since before that time, LOL.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Sounds like you would have been money ahead by just deleting it all
Maybe your egr cooler is cracked allowing coolant to get in there? Dosent seem logical it could get inside there from blowing around the outside?
If your looking for a good used egr cooler i have one here with 68k on it
Thanks Bradm, I will definitely consider it. I had considered going the route of a delete but then read a post by the Malone tuning guys that said that doing an EGR delete can cause the car to take a lot longer to warm up. I live in central Ohio so gets pretty cold sometimes during the winter. Anyway, they suggested doing a dynamic EGR tune that would only have it function until the car was warm then turn it down.

Honestly, I love the car but these constant issues has taken a lot of the joy out of the car. I can totally see why people do the delete. I will definitely pull the EGR cooler and inspect it.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Thanks for the replies @oilhammer and @MrCypherr

I really hope I don't do all this work only to have to do it again soon. I will definitely pull the EGR cooler and check it out. Other than the valve part, do you guys know if they can be dismantled?

@oilhammer what is the TSB regarding? I have had this done several times since dieselgate and they never once mentioned my EGR cooler. They have replaced the EGR filter, DPF and cleaned(replaced?) the intake manifold. I do have 230K miles on it now, though.

I did notice the little tube that connects to the EGR valve in the front of the engine and wraps around to the back of the engine appeared to have soot in it. It didn't appear blocked but definitely had a little build up in there. I may try to get that off and clean it out, as well. I was wondering if torching it out or using oven cleaner would be good ways to go. My son definitely wants to try the torch ;)
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The stuff you see on the front of the engine is the high pressure EGR... that's not your problem, that's not what we are talking about.

The problem is with the low pressure EGR, which is all located on the back side of the engine.

The TSB describes what happens when the DPF cracks internally, and allows soot straight from the engine to get past it, into the rest of the exhaust.... and its first stop post-DPF is the port for the low pressure EGR system, where it goes through that little tube with a little filter screen inside, then into the cooler, then up to the air inlet of the turbocharger. The low pressure EGR is not pushed directly into the intake manifold like the high pressure system is, it goes into the same air stream as what came through the engine air filter.

There is normally no (zero, zip, NONE) soot post-DPF. You normally would be able to look at a sensor removed post-DPF, and it would look brand new... cleaner even than any gasoline fueled car would look. Literally, an oxygen sensor will look like you just pulled it out of the box, it's amazing how well DPFs [can] work.

As such, that little filter tube's insides should also be completely clean. White-glove-test clean. If soot is in there, the DPF is cracked. If the DPF efficiency DTC shows up along with the EGR flow DTC, it's REALLY cracked. The other quick test is to check the tailpipes. They should be clean, too. If t here is any soot in there, the DPF is cracked.

Here is more reading:


Note the date on that is January of 2013.... so well before any of the Dieselgate nonsense, this was a problem pretty much right away. Dieselgate made it much worse. I've replaced a boxcar's worth of CBEA/CJAA DPFs for this problem, and that's a lot considering post-DG many of them were under warranty.... I bet the dealers have done far, far more of them.

Notice they want to verify the exhaust flap and MAF are both in good order, and that there are no exhaust leaks anywhere... but then they give you the list of parts required to replace, which never include anything with the EGR cooler. Just the DPF and EGR filter tube and associated gaskets/clamps.
 

Bradm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
02,03,05, Jetta 99.5 Golf
Thanks Bradm, I will definitely consider it. I had considered going the route of a delete but then read a post by the Malone tuning guys that said that doing an EGR delete can cause the car to take a lot longer to warm up. I live in central Ohio so gets pretty cold sometimes during the winter. Anyway, they suggested doing a dynamic EGR tune that would only have it function until the car was warm then turn it down.

Honestly, I love the car but these constant issues has taken a lot of the joy out of the car. I can totally see why people do the delete. I will definitely pull the EGR cooler and inspect it.
I was worried about the warm up time also because of things i read before hand. But i never even noticed a difference, i live in WI and used to drive it everyday weve had days/weeks when the temps have been 0 or below and it was fine. Seat warmers help alot deleted or not and you could always get a frost heater, i had always planned on it but i no longer daily drive my car. Plus I couldn’t break 40mpg with that crap on now I’ll average 48+ My best was 52.3
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
The stuff you see on the front of the engine is the high pressure EGR... that's not your problem, that's not what we are talking about.

The problem is with the low pressure EGR, which is all located on the back side of the engine.

The TSB describes what happens when the DPF cracks internally, and allows soot straight from the engine to get past it, into the rest of the exhaust.... and its first stop post-DPF is the port for the low pressure EGR system, where it goes through that little tube with a little filter screen inside, then into the cooler, then up to the air inlet of the turbocharger. The low pressure EGR is not pushed directly into the intake manifold like the high pressure system is, it goes into the same air stream as what came through the engine air filter.

There is normally no (zero, zip, NONE) soot post-DPF. You normally would be able to look at a sensor removed post-DPF, and it would look brand new... cleaner even than any gasoline fueled car would look. Literally, an oxygen sensor will look like you just pulled it out of the box, it's amazing how well DPFs [can] work.

As such, that little filter tube's insides should also be completely clean. White-glove-test clean. If soot is in there, the DPF is cracked. If the DPF efficiency DTC shows up along with the EGR flow DTC, it's REALLY cracked. The other quick test is to check the tailpipes. They should be clean, too. If t here is any soot in there, the DPF is cracked.

Here is more reading:


Note the date on that is January of 2013.... so well before any of the Dieselgate nonsense, this was a problem pretty much right away. Dieselgate made it much worse. I've replaced a boxcar's worth of CBEA/CJAA DPFs for this problem, and that's a lot considering post-DG many of them were under warranty.... I bet the dealers have done far, far more of them.

Notice they want to verify the exhaust flap and MAF are both in good order, and that there are no exhaust leaks anywhere... but then they give you the list of parts required to replace, which never include anything with the EGR cooler. Just the DPF and EGR filter tube and associated gaskets/clamps.
Thank you for explaining that. Probably best explanation I've read (that I understood lol). I started pulling the stuff off my car last night and got everything except the actual dpf so tackling that today. When I pulled off the catalytic converter I noticed it had a DPF screen like thing in there and it does have soot. Also, the flap valve on the down pipe behind it is covered in soot. The EGR filter looks brand new on the outside (because it practically is) but I got the new one to replace it. I assume you can't clean these effectively?

Also, I pulled as many measure blocks from the VCDS as I could for the temp, pressure and particle blocks etc as I could find. Some values looked a little weird to me. I will post them here later on. I am curious if I have a bad sensor that is maybe causing these issues. I saw a couple of videos that said to always check those because if they go bad they can prevent the regens from happening (which sounds like what you are saying is covered in the TSB which I will go over later also).
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
I was worried about the warm up time also because of things i read before hand. But i never even noticed a difference, i live in WI and used to drive it everyday weve had days/weeks when the temps have been 0 or below and it was fine. Seat warmers help alot deleted or not and you could always get a frost heater, i had always planned on it but i no longer daily drive my car. Plus I couldn’t break 40mpg with that crap on now I’ll average 48+ My best was 52.3
That is good to hear. I assume you have a tune. If you don't mind may I ask who you went with and are you happy with them/it?

I love the car and the ~50mpg and performance I was getting before it was neutered er I mean "fixed". I have been getting so much crap from my wife regarding the sudden upkeep on my vehicle that I ultimately decided to go stock to potentially sell the thing in the spring and get something else.

The car has 200k + and so I am worried that I am going to be dealing with a mixed bag of issues on top of the dpf/egr issues if I keep it much longer. On the other hand I love the car and have more time than money right now so may just learn to fix it and keep it for awhile. So torn...
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
@oilhammer @Bradm

I just wanted to follow up and say thank you guys for your feedback. I just finished up the EGR/DPF replacement and boy is that a peach of a job. As far as I can tell everything went well. I reset the DPF code using VCDS after the replacement and deleted the P2002 and P0401 codes and took it for a short drive after it warmed up and all seemed good.

I had to drop the axle by removing the inner axle bolts and then I was having a hard time finding out what the torque spec should be on those. I found an old post that states 70 Nm for the M10 bolts but wanted to be sure. Also, the post said you should "replace them after disassembly" which I didn't realize I needed to do. Do you guys think it would be okay to drive on the original ones until I receive the replacements?
 

Bradm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
02,03,05, Jetta 99.5 Golf
Glad you got it done and it all went well, you know exactly what to do for when you get to do it again lol. When i did my delete i needed the car and ended up re using the axle bolts, I checked them a few times after and they have been fine. Not saying its the correct thing to do but its been 35k since.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Glad you got it done and it all went well, you know exactly what to do for when you get to do it again lol. When i did my delete i needed the car and ended up re using the axle bolts, I checked them a few times after and they have been fine. Not saying its the correct thing to do but its been 35k since.
Okay, yes, thanks for sharing that. They seemed totally fine and I wonder if that is just to remove the possibility of stripping out the star pattern when reusing them or something. I've done some short trips and all seems good so maybe I'll just keep an eye on them.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
They aren't TTY, they should be fine.
"Torque-to-yield bolts are engineered to stretch within a controlled yield zone and maintain a consistent level of clamping force once they reach this zone."

I never knew bolts were engineered to stretch. Thanks for enlightening me!
 

Mike Morriss

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2001
Location
Ponca City, Oklahoma
TDI
99 New Beetle, 91 Vanagon TDI conversion, 05 New Beetle, 2014 Jetta Sportwagen
This thread is WAY informative, as is SO MUCH on TDI Club! I have a 2014 Sportwagen TDI with 112,000 miles on the clock. Back in June 2021 a VW dealer did the exhaust particle filter change under extended warranty. On 02March23 the CEL came on and I got P2002 and P0401.
I think this may have happened a few days before, when Inspection Now message was on. I cleared things then but didn't record why the
CEL came on then. Might have been the same.

I cleared the codes on 02 March 23 and then drove about 15 miles, getting up to about 70 mph, (about 2200rpm) and the CEL never came on again. I had done a fairly aggressive acceleration earlier ont he 2nd. That may have been what tripped the codes but I didn't notice when the CEL came on except it was some time after the acceleration.

I am thinking maybe I could just watch things, check for soot in the tailpipe, keep monitoring codes/CEL and if all goes well, have Euro Pros in Wichita, Ks. address this when I have them do the 120,000 mile timing belt change. We aren't driving much so it may be a few months before we get close to 120K. I am 75 years young so don't plan to do any fixes myself The nearest VW shop is about 100 miles away.

I sure would be glad to hear anyone's thoughts and recommendations.
 

06bluebeetletdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Location
Middlesex, NC
TDI
'14 Passat TDI SEL and '13 Beetle TDI
My beetle has the same time frame, last dpf 6/21, 102000 miles, this one 2/22 115500. The egr pipe failed on mine allowing unmetered are into the system causing the dpf to fail. You should still be under warranty for a bit more time depending on the original delivery date of the car.
 

Mike Morriss

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2001
Location
Ponca City, Oklahoma
TDI
99 New Beetle, 91 Vanagon TDI conversion, 05 New Beetle, 2014 Jetta Sportwagen
My beetle has the same time frame, last dpf 6/21, 102000 miles, this one 2/22 115500. The egr pipe failed on mine allowing unmetered are into the system causing the dpf to fail. You should still be under warranty for a bit more time depending on the original delivery date of the car.
Thanks! The info about some existing warranty is INTERESTING!!! I'm contacting the VW dealer that did the work back in 2021.
 

06bluebeetletdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Location
Middlesex, NC
TDI
'14 Passat TDI SEL and '13 Beetle TDI
The dealer will be able to tell you the exact expiration date, since you have a 2014 that could be later this year if it was sold in 2013. Good luck :). I’m lucky my 2013 beetle was sold in February 2014.
 

dugjones

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Location
Columbus, OH
TDI
2011 VW Jetta TDI MKVI
Sounds like you would have been money ahead by just deleting it all
Maybe your egr cooler is cracked allowing coolant to get in there? Dosent seem logical it could get inside there from blowing around the outside?
If your looking for a good used egr cooler i have one here with 68k on it
Hi @Bradm I finally got my new flywheel and will hopefully be installing it this weekend. I am still getting the low flow for the EGR and realized this would be a good time to go ahead and pull the pipe that goes around the engine for the EGR. I am thinking, at this point, I may just go ahead and replace the EGR cooler, as well. Do you still have your old one and, if so, what would you want for it?
 
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