Mk4 tdi blew out all oil

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

Driving to work today and right as I was pulling in my oil light came on, parked and popped the hood and notices oil splattered across the upper firewall and also seeping from the air intake hose before it goes down to the turbo. Looked under the car and there was a massive puddle. No oil was on the dipstick at all. Any ideas?

 

[Drewser]

Did you hit anything while driving that could crack the oil pan? May not explain all the oil on the intake hose, but could have had air blow it around. Some areas to check...oil pan, oil/coolant transfer block (bottom of oil filter), turbo...maybe oil line on the turbo? Just throwing ideas out.

 

[Mongler98]

Put a big drip pan with cat litter under it and clean up the mess.
Add 1 quart at a time. 1/2 to start with. Check for pan leaks.
If you add 3 quarts to get a dipstick reading... you probably are fine. I'd you have to add all 4.5 you have ran dry. Not to panic yet.
Find the leak if its not the pan. Have somone crank it after you pull the 109 relay so it wont start.
See where it leaks from. My bet is turbo oil feed line or the turbo drain hose.
Do not run it at all until you stop the leak properly. Cranking it with a pan full of oil is fine to build pressure. Make sure you dont crank for more than 10 seconds at a time with a few minute rest. Put her on a charger too when you do so you dont damage the battery.
Not much you can do but fix the leak, and fingers crossed no damage was done. The light is an idiot light. Once you have no pressure it comes on. So seeing as it was just a few minutes at best if not less, your probably fine.

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

Thanks I’ll definitely do that when I get back to work tomorrow! I pulled the intake pipe and checked the play on the turbine wheel and it felt fine ish for 310k miles. There was fresh clean oil coating the inside of the intake pipe as I just got an oil change 3 days ago. I was wondering why it would all mostly be up towards the top of the firewall level with the valve cover. Will the CCV puck blow that much oil into the intake if it’s fubar’d?

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

I’ll check the pan but there is no oil anywhere up front passed the back of the block

 

[Mongler98]

I’ll check the pan but there is no oil anywhere up front passed the back of the block

yea sounds like the pan is good

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

So I filled it back up with oil and it hasn’t leaked other than it’s normal drip, have not attempted to start it yet

 

[Mongler98]

So I filled it back up with oil and it hasn’t leaked other than it’s normal drip, have not attempted to start it yet

Good. Pull the 109 relay and crank it till you find the leak. One that big is going to show up really fast and cause low or no oil pressure and that kills engines.

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

Welp after further inspection and turning on my car to get it on the tow dolly I will now be purchasing a vnt17. It was spewing oil from in between the turbine housing and the exducer housing… thanks for y’all’s help! Much appreciated

 

[Mongler98]

Welp after further inspection and turning on my car to get it on the tow dolly I will now be purchasing a vnt17. It was spewing oil from in between the turbine housing and the exducer housing… thanks for y’all’s help! Much appreciated

So it is a broken drain or oil inlet fitting.if the turbo journal bearing was the issue you would either or have both the charge pipes, and or the exhaust full of oil. If they are normally amount of oil and it's all on the outside, the turbo is probably fine and just needs a new hose or fitting.
Nothing wrong with upgrading but 2 grand for a turbo and a tune you don't really need and without fuel mods is basically pointless..... my vote, fix the leak save your money.

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

I have a Malone stage 3 on it now and I was gonna buy a set of nozzles right before she broke but yeah it’s squirting out from the top of the nut on the feed line

 

[Mongler98]

I have a Malone stage 3 on it now and I was gonna buy a set of nozzles right before she broke but yeah it’s squirting out from the top of the nut on the feed line

yep a braided line is your future! even if you upgrade to a very expensive turbo! you have a stage 3 tune on it with stock nozzles and stock turbo?

 

[jmodge]

A 12 point 17 mm box wrench cut open and ground to fit (or possibly 12 pt crowfoot) is essential to hold the turbo fitting the line threads on to. That fitting needs to be tightened independently and slightly more than the nut on the line. Also needs to be held still when working the nut. Steel lines on all 3 of my TDI’s, two with over 300k, no issues. There is a braided line out there that uses a banjo fitting that merely takes a socket to tighten it to the turbo.

 

[The_Nicholas_Christian]

yep a braided line is your future! even if you upgrade to a very expensive turbo! you have a stage 3 tune on it with stock nozzles and stock turbo?

Sure do, took longer than I thought to get around to buying go fast parts! Put the tune on there at 260k and now I’m at 310. But yeah I ordered the braided kit.

 

[pkhoury]

Not sure if you already ordered your turbo, but I picked up a Melett VNT17 from darkside and saved a truckload vs getting a Garret VNT17. Like 50% savings. And of course, I do use braided oil lines. The stock oil lines are crapohla, especially when pulling stock turbos.