MK4 Jetta Light Bar Install Questions

Tdi<3er

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Hey lads, I've been scouring the forums and gaining as much info as i can for putting a lightbar on the Jetta. As we all know the light output on the mk4 jettas is atrocious and rather lacking, where I live it gets dark very early in the winter and there are lots of deer around here in Manitoba so this is why I want to have one installed. I've come across 2 good threads which I will link below, but in one of them a user claims that a 22 inch curved light bar fits perfectly in the lower grille area and on another thread someone mentions installing a straight lightbar. So my question is... what do you have installed and how does it fit?

Here are the links:

 

J_dude

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Looks like either one would work well, just depends how far back you mount it. If it’s further back like @ItAintRodKnock’s then you probably wouldn’t notice the difference.

A word on mounting light bars that low; they make a huge bright spot on the road in front of the bumper which makes it harder to see farther downroad. (Foreground lighting and human eye being what it is.) Makes it seem really bright in front of ya but you can’t see very far, which is kinda the point of a light bar.
The absolute best place I’ve found to mount a light bar is on the roof, and far enough back that you don’t get glare off the hood.
And I mount em with industrial magnets for ease of installation. Which also means they’re removable for when you have to park on the wrong side of town or something and you don’t want it stolen. Lol
 

Tdi<3er

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@J_dude Hey man thanks for the reply, do you have any pics by any chance? Here in Toba im pretty sure its required by law that if its installed above the headlights then it needs a cover... You do have a point about it being mounted so low, kind of defeats the purpose of it. Unfortunately there isnt really a good place to mount it on the mark 4's :cautious:
 

J_dude

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@J_dude Hey man thanks for the reply, do you have any pics by any chance? Here in Toba im pretty sure its required by law that if its installed above the headlights then it needs a cover... You do have a point about it being mounted so low, kind of defeats the purpose of it. Unfortunately there isnt really a good place to mount it on the mark 4's :cautious:
I don’t actually have one on my Jetta yet so no pics for ya, but I have one on my Buick and my truck.
And yes you technically need a cover if it’s above the headlights and you’re on a public road. That’s the unfortunate part about it but I haven’t been stopped for it yet.

Where in MB are you btw? I’ve sort of halfway moved here now as well, near Winkler area.
 

CanadianALH

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@J_dude Hey man thanks for the reply, do you have any pics by any chance? Here in Toba im pretty sure its required by law that if its installed above the headlights then it needs a cover... You do have a point about it being mounted so low, kind of defeats the purpose of it. Unfortunately there isnt really a good place to mount it on the mark 4's :cautious:
I’ve seen guys bolt them to the hood lol. Not sure if that was on a mk4 but I have seen them mounted to a hood before.
 

J_dude

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I’ve seen guys bolt them to the hood lol. Not sure if that was on a mk4 but I have seen them mounted to a hood before.
I was actually going to try that with the Buick the other day but I found out the hood is aluminum so my magnets are no help lol.
I feel like the glare off the hood would be pretty bad though. Probably light up the whole headliner inside the car 😂
 

Tdi<3er

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I don’t actually have one on my Jetta yet so no pics for ya, but I have one on my Buick and my truck.
And yes you technically need a cover if it’s above the headlights and you’re on a public road. That’s the unfortunate part about it but I haven’t been stopped for it yet.

Where in MB are you btw? I’ve sort of halfway moved here now as well, near Winkler area.
Im in the city but frequently travel down hwy 6. Oof its getting cold here rn, i think ive been to winkler like 2 times in my 13 years of living in MB.
 

northern diesel

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Hey!
I saw a guy driving a mark 4 sedan the other day with his light bar the entire width of his roof rack. Like @J_dude said you’ll get way better light than the lower grill 8” one which I have.
Here’s a pic- maybe a concave (or convex?) one would do a little better and perhaps you could aim it a little..
https://flic.kr/p/2qEcME9 But next for me is the high beam mod- I also live on dark unlit winter roads with animals - and I find I drive holding the high beam while I drive. This mod will fix that once and for all.
 

J_dude

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But next for me is the high beam mod
That does tend to shorten bulb life, from what I hear. Jsyk

Edit: I mean on the stock dual filament Jetta bulbs, having both filaments burning at once gets a lot hotter.
Not sure if that’s your car in the pic but if you have aftermarket lights this may not apply.
 

northern diesel

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That does tend to shorten bulb life, from what I hear. Jsyk

Edit: I mean on the stock dual filament Jetta bulbs, having both filaments burning at once gets a lot hotter.
Not sure if that’s your car in the pic but if you have aftermarket lights this may not apply.
That is mine in the picture - I’m less worried about bulb life as I am wildlife.
With both highs and lows on - I’m happy with the amount of light.
I would like a light bar up on the roof rack.
 

northern diesel

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Yeah, I have heard you can overheat the housings if both your highs and lows come from one bulb- but I am currently running some aftermarket housings with separate highs and lows. Not super stoked on them- they are only slightly better than the craptastic stock ones. Possibly worse too- I’ve focussed them so that they are not shining up in oncoming eyes - but the colour of the light is that crappy blue white
 

Zak99b5

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But next for me is the high beam mod- I also live on dark unlit winter roads with animals - and I find I drive holding the high beam while I drive. This mod will fix that once and for all.
That's not the right mod. I think that gives you DRLs, not real low beams.

Look of Vortex for the "Golf Mod." I did it on my car (Jetta with separate low/high bulbs) and wrote about it here, so you'll find it here as well.

Basically, you want to take a wire that goes to the Jetta's left stalk in the steering column and transfer it to the headlight switch instead. It duplicates how the Golfs are wired from the factory, and it's easy to do.
 

Tdi<3er

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Hey!
I saw a guy driving a mark 4 sedan the other day with his light bar the entire width of his roof rack. Like @J_dude said you’ll get way better light than the lower grill 8” one which I have.
Here’s a pic- maybe a concave (or convex?) one would do a little better and perhaps you could aim it a little..
https://flic.kr/p/2qEcME9 But next for me is the high beam mod- I also live on dark unlit winter roads with animals - and I find I drive holding the high beam while I drive. This mod will fix that once and for all.
Thats only an 8" light bar and it fills the lower grille? i ended up ordering a curved 22 inch... Will get back to you guys once it gets installed which might take a while as im really busy with school.
 

GlowBugTDI

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@J_dude Hey man thanks for the reply, do you have any pics by any chance? Here in Toba im pretty sure its required by law that if its installed above the headlights then it needs a cover... You do have a point about it being mounted so low, kind of defeats the purpose of it. Unfortunately there isnt really a good place to mount it on the mark 4's :cautious:
I mounted one in the grill and its not worth it honestly. I ended up mounting it to my roof rack.
As Jdude said you can also get rubber mounting clamps for your hood that allow it to be easily removed when not needed. Those work well.
Amazon hood light mounts.
 

GlowBugTDI

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Love that bug!
How do you wire it f try on the roof rack ?
It was prettier before the wreck lol. I have a red grill now so it matches better. Green one fell off in a snow storm taking the fog lights with it.

I used a nilight kit and ran the wiring up the crevice between the windshield and A pillar. It then goes under the rack lock flap (keeps water out) where it connects to the light bar wiring with quick connects. Light bar is connected with the two pipe holders and bolts which comes off super easy with the wrench in the door cubby. Makes for easy mount/dismount. It sucks up a little mpg so I don't keep it up there often, plus it keeps the light in nicer condition for when I do need it.

Can make a video later.
 

northern diesel

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Awesome! Just so I understand , wiring is external - or are you talking internal between windshield and a pillar - which would run under the head liner I guess to reach those roofrack lock flaps ?
Last night someone a ways behind me on the highway had a big amber light bar - and honestly the light from it is way easier on the eyes I found.
just something also to consider.
I kinda want to switch my headlights for amber now -
I’ve got after market Jetta lights and I worry they are giving of rainbow lasers.
I’ve stood in front and they don’t seem bad - but I’ve not tested driving oncoming with our truck to see see what they are like in the dark of night.
 

GlowBugTDI

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I forgot about those actually, might grab a set just for funsies.
I'm going to run these with amber pods on my wifes jetta to make up for the horribly stock lights. Way cheaper then HID. Though i may try the 23$ nilight hid setup.
 

GlowBugTDI

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Link please - and update if you do- I’m interested in all things light related -
LED amber lense pod kit.
I may just order it now since its on sale. Try it out on the camry this winter then switch it to the wagon.

Light bar/pod base.

HID projector retrofit set up.
I'm not 100% sure these would work, but im wanting to try.

I still don't fully understand the ballast thing and so I need to figure out if they are needed for an HID set up. I don't understand what the ballast does on a hid setup. On leds we usually have canbus, but thats different i believe.
 

Lex4TDI4Life

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I still don't fully understand the ballast thing and so I need to figure out if they are needed for an HID set up. I don't understand what the ballast does on a hid setup. On leds we usually have canbus, but thats different i believe.
Ballasts are 100% needed to run HIDs. The projectors you linked to are kinda garbage, however. Do some poking around here and at hidplanet.com and you will learn all about the agony and ecstasy of HID retrofitting.
 

2004LB7

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LED amber lense pod kit.
I may just order it now since its on sale. Try it out on the camry this winter then switch it to the wagon.

Light bar/pod base.

HID projector retrofit set up.
I'm not 100% sure these would work, but im wanting to try.

I still don't fully understand the ballast thing and so I need to figure out if they are needed for an HID set up. I don't understand what the ballast does on a hid setup. On leds we usually have canbus, but thats different i believe.
When cold or not running. An HID bulb has very high resistance and won't light up with the normal 12 volts the vehicle runs at. So a high voltage pulse is used to start an arc inside the bulb. Once the arc is established and the bulb starts heating up, the resistance starts lowering. As the bulb gets hotter and hotter the resistance keeps dropping. This allows more current to flow heating the bulb even more. If this isn't kept in check the bulb will draw enough current to pop or melt. To prevent this. A ballast (definition: historically was something that weighed something down or provided stability. Today in electronics, it has come to be know as something that can regulate or keep the current in check) is used to limit how much the bulb can consume.

Most of the time the HID bulbs are the same, at least for the same design or application, and it's the ballast that determines the wattage.

Old style ballasts where nothing more then a laminated iron core with wire wrapped around it. This limited the change in current for AC applications. But this approach doesn't work well on DC. So today electronics are employed that can control the current and keep the bulb from running away with too much power

If you tried to run an HID bulb without any ballast. You would first find it wouldn't even light up when power is applied. If you did manage to strike an arc inside the bulb it would quickly start drawing so much current it would blow the headlight fuse. If it was on an unfused supply then the bulb would continue to get brighter and brighter drawing more and more current until the bulb burst or melted
 

GlowBugTDI

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Ballasts are 100% needed to run HIDs. The projectors you linked to are kinda garbage, however. Do some poking around here and at hidplanet.com and you will learn all about the agony and ecstasy of HID retrofitting.
Ok, thanks. Seems everyone uses ballasts just couldn't figure out where to get them or what kind or if they were needed. I'll do some searching online.
So far my experience with nilight has been good. I'm sure they are (at $23), but I figure their probably better than LED in halogen housings. Because as it sits im considering cutting the lil light cap off the housing and letting all that light shine. I already modded my camry light bulbs (removed dipped coating) so I can actually see. Helped get better lighting down the road.
 
Last edited:

GlowBugTDI

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When cold or not running. An HID bulb has very high resistance and won't light up with the normal 12 volts the vehicle runs at. So a high voltage pulse is used to start an arc inside the bulb. Once the arc is established and the bulb starts heating up, the resistance starts lowering. As the bulb gets hotter and hotter the resistance keeps dropping. This allows more current to flow heating the bulb even more. If this isn't kept in check the bulb will draw enough current to pop or melt. To prevent this. A ballast (definition: historically was something that weighed something down or provided stability. Today in electronics, it has come to be know as something that can regulate or keep the current in check) is used to limit how much the bulb can consume.

Most of the time the HID bulbs are the same, at least for the same design or application, and it's the ballast that determines the wattage.

Old style ballasts where nothing more then a laminated iron core with wire wrapped around it. This limited the change in current for AC applications. But this approach doesn't work well on DC. So today electronics are employed that can control the current and keep the bulb from running away with too much power

If you tried to run an HID bulb without any ballast. You would first find it wouldn't even light up when power is applied. If you did manage to strike an arc inside the bulb it would quickly start drawing so much current it would blow the headlight fuse. If it was on an unfused supply then the bulb would continue to get brighter and brighter drawing more and more current until the bulb burst or melted
Beautifully written. Thank you!!
 

Zak99b5

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Ok, thanks. Seems everyone uses ballasts just couldn't figure out where to get them or what kind or if they were needed. I'll do some searching online.
So far my experience with nilight has been good. I'm sure they are (at $23), but I figure their probably better than LED in halogen housings. Because as it sits im considering cutting the lil light cap off the housing and letting all that light shine. I already modded my camry light bulbs (removed dipped coating) so I can actually see. Helped get better lighting down the road.
DDM Tuning has good and pretty inexpensive HID bulb/ballast kits. My current car has a set that’s been in about three years, and my old Audi A4 (son just sold) has had a set for about 10 years, all still working fine. 35w 4500°k kits.

I had Depo housings in the Audi that had D2S projectors in them. For the Jetta I bought the Depo OEM HID replica housings (halogen projectors, but they also had a D2S mark?), DDM HID kit, bent the TFL pin (you don’t want HIDs getting drl current), and did the Golf mod to allow the lows to stay on with highs. They’re not perfect, but lighting is great still.
 

GlowBugTDI

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DDM Tuning has good and pretty inexpensive HID bulb/ballast kits. My current car has a set that’s been in about three years, and my old Audi A4 (son just sold) has had a set for about 10 years, all still working fine. 35w 4500°k kits.

I had Depo housings in the Audi that had D2S projectors in them. For the Jetta I bought the Depo OEM HID replica housings (halogen projectors, but they also had a D2S mark?), DDM HID kit, bent the TFL pin (you don’t want HIDs getting drl current), and did the Golf mod to allow the lows to stay on with highs. They’re not perfect, but lighting is great still.
At 65$ itay be worth trying. Way easier than retrofitting.
Would you say their better than stock?
 
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