Some alignment facts (from a guy who actually DOES them):
There is no such thing as a "two wheel alignment" on a modern car or truck. That went away some time in the sixties. All alignment machines are "four wheel" units, because they are thrust angle type the not only REQUIRE all four wheels to have the heads mounted and measured, but base the FRONT axle settings off of the REARs. That's why you always start with aligning the rear axle, then move to the front. Even on solid rear axle vehicles.
While there may not be a prescribed procedure for a certain alignment setting, often there are methods to tweak things, and in some cases aftermarket components that can be installed to correct things.
Despite the myth, the rear track-correcting twist beam axles, as well as the non-track-correcting twist beam axles, of FWD VAG products that use them, DO have a minor adjustment possible. That's why the beam mounting brackets are slotted. You CAN loosen and shift the beam a bit to at least lessen or equalize some rear toe. It is not at all difficult to do, especially on an alignment rack... I've done it thousands of times. If the rear camber is way off, the beam is bent. However, if it isn't terribly far off, there are aftermarket shims available for the rear spindles... this is true for a lot of cars. The downside to this of course is that on rear disc brake cars that do not mount the caliper to the spindles directly, and instead mount them to their own dedicated mounted holes on the beam itself, is that once the shim is installed and the spindle geometry is corrected, the caliper may no longer ride square to hold the pads square against the rotor. However usually this difference would be negligible and not have any major impact on brake operation. Some shims also provide additional small shims for the caliper mount, too, to alleviate this issue.
Pic of the rear beam bracket, note the slotted holes:
Commonly available aftermarket shim:
View attachment 142044
On the front, it most certainly IS a prescribed alignment procedure to shift the subframe to equalize toe and/or caster. It's literally right in the alignment machine's instructions... they have pictures and even videos on how to do this, right there displayed on the machine.
Here's a screenshot from our Hunter:
It would seem there are just a LOT of lazy idiots out there working at these dumbass tire and alignment shops that simple can't be bothered to properly do their job. Just know there are a few REAL techs out there that do know how to do it, and are not afraid to do so.