burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
here's how i do the wiring for an mk4 ALH install of a BEW lift pump. the bulk of the work is in making a nice drop-in harness. and with this harness made, the only tools needed are a de-pin tool, flatblade srewdriver, t20-t25 torx bits, 10mm socket; it's essentially drop-in 
first thing is to remove the interior trim bits - fusel panel cover, trim + metal panel below steering wheel (click on pics for full image):
unlock the fuse panel wires using a flat-blade - you push the purple tab outward - in this pic, you'd be pushing it to the right:
the bulk of the work is in making the harness:
this harness is for adding a mini 10amp fuse to open slot (i use #8 - easy to get to). plug in the two wires for that - one going to terminal #30 in the footwell for battery power, the other (fused power) going to #30 of the relay; #87 of relay goes to lift pump power; #85 of relay goes to the ground ring behind the steering wheel as well as to lift pump ground, #86 of relay goes to fuel shutoff solenoid at the pump. you reach around and push the relay base into the easiest to access empty space (from the back, and it only fits in one way - look for the "keyed" side) and it clips in, then put the relay in. i ran out of plain red/brown wire, so the green wire is ground in this case. pink/orange/red i'd always use for 12v. for wire i use all new wire, 16ga for the fuel shutoff wire, 14ga for the rest. only one solder joint for the shared ground.
one thing i think i might improve on is to add some solder to the ring terminal for the fuel shut-off valve to keep it clean from any corrosion getting in...
behind and above the accelerator pedal there is a small and easily accessible plug that you can pop out and punch/cut a hole in it for the shutoff-valve wire (and for any other gauge wires, boost gauge boost line).
the harness parts are : oem relay base/socket (so it clips into the relay panel neatly), a relay "53" or other generic relay of the same configuration, 4-pin lift pump connector, wire, new terminal ends, ring terminals
while i'm at it, if i haven't done so, i usually add another mini 10amp fuse (to #17 also easy to get to) with switched power with a 6-8pin connector for fused switched power/grounds for gauges and stuff (radar detector, other low-amp amenities).
button up and your done. nice and neat, no hacking, no spaghetti-mess
oh - and then you have to swap in the actual lift pump. i use a little wood block to tap on the big locking ring to loosen/tigthen it. you don't want to use something sharp/metal or you'll break the notches on it.. make sure you orient the sending/pump unit correctly (i believe it should have two arrows, one pointing to the rear, and one to the passenger side). you then de-pin the old fuel level sensor wires and swap the into #2/#3 pins of the 4pin lift pump connector
first thing is to remove the interior trim bits - fusel panel cover, trim + metal panel below steering wheel (click on pics for full image):
unlock the fuse panel wires using a flat-blade - you push the purple tab outward - in this pic, you'd be pushing it to the right:
the bulk of the work is in making the harness:
this harness is for adding a mini 10amp fuse to open slot (i use #8 - easy to get to). plug in the two wires for that - one going to terminal #30 in the footwell for battery power, the other (fused power) going to #30 of the relay; #87 of relay goes to lift pump power; #85 of relay goes to the ground ring behind the steering wheel as well as to lift pump ground, #86 of relay goes to fuel shutoff solenoid at the pump. you reach around and push the relay base into the easiest to access empty space (from the back, and it only fits in one way - look for the "keyed" side) and it clips in, then put the relay in. i ran out of plain red/brown wire, so the green wire is ground in this case. pink/orange/red i'd always use for 12v. for wire i use all new wire, 16ga for the fuel shutoff wire, 14ga for the rest. only one solder joint for the shared ground.
one thing i think i might improve on is to add some solder to the ring terminal for the fuel shut-off valve to keep it clean from any corrosion getting in...
behind and above the accelerator pedal there is a small and easily accessible plug that you can pop out and punch/cut a hole in it for the shutoff-valve wire (and for any other gauge wires, boost gauge boost line).
the harness parts are : oem relay base/socket (so it clips into the relay panel neatly), a relay "53" or other generic relay of the same configuration, 4-pin lift pump connector, wire, new terminal ends, ring terminals
while i'm at it, if i haven't done so, i usually add another mini 10amp fuse (to #17 also easy to get to) with switched power with a 6-8pin connector for fused switched power/grounds for gauges and stuff (radar detector, other low-amp amenities
).button up and your done. nice and neat, no hacking, no spaghetti-mess
oh - and then you have to swap in the actual lift pump. i use a little wood block to tap on the big locking ring to loosen/tigthen it. you don't want to use something sharp/metal or you'll break the notches on it.. make sure you orient the sending/pump unit correctly (i believe it should have two arrows, one pointing to the rear, and one to the passenger side). you then de-pin the old fuel level sensor wires and swap the into #2/#3 pins of the 4pin lift pump connector
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