Mk3 clutch change

[VW<3]

Hi guys
Im going to remove my gearbox in order to change the clutch and I need a list of parts that ill need
For example flange seals, crankshaft seal, clutch alignement tool etc...
An overall material list so i dont forget anything
I want to put basically everything new

 

[oilhammer]

How would the internet know that?

We'd need to actually know what car you have, with what engine, and what transmission. And possibly, which type (brand) clutch/flywheel it uses, as VAG switches around.

For us, it's easy. We only had one choice. I'm not sure you did, seems like you would have had many more possibilities.

 

[VW<3]

Mk3 Golf
1Z/AHU (btw is there a way to see the engine code on the VIN number?)
Gearbox I have no ideia....but i would assume it is an ASD
Brand of clutch i was going with SACHS

 

[oilhammer]

So the A3 TDI, VE90, would likely have a Sachs clutch, yes. With the 02J transmission. We did not get that car here. We did get the Jetta (you may have called them Vento).

A Sachs kit would have everything you need, including the alignment tool usually. Only extra I might add is the clutch release fork and pivot pin.

 

[VW<3]

Ok, yes I think it is the O2J
But what else would I need?
Transmission axle seals, Differencial seals, clutch seal?
Ive looked over on a online shop and it has similar names for different seals and i I just dont want to buy the wrong stuff

 

[oilhammer]

I wouldn't be replacing seals unless you had a cause to do so.

You said you were changing the clutch. Does the engine or transmission also have a leak?

 

[VW<3]

Yes I have a leak between the engine and the transmission so I would assume it is the crank seal...
And the back of the gearbox (differencial) also with time I can see some oil

 

[oilhammer]

Rear sealing flange also will require the oil pan be removed, so you'd need a gasket for that too. The sealing flange usually comes with the install ring already in it.

 

[VW<3]

Rear sealing flange = crankshaft seal?

 

[oilhammer]

The seal is integral with the flange, yes.

Rear Mainshaft Seal (A3)(B4) 028103171B 804.850 | IDParts.com - Diesel Parts

 

[VW<3]

Hmm ok
But I can change only the seal right? Or is it better changing the whole thing?

 

[oilhammer]

The seal is part of the flange. That's what 'integral' means. It is integrated into the flange.

 

[VW<3]

Oh ok
I didnt know that
On that online shop I was talking about it appears on both forms...seal only and with the flange

 

[VW<3]

But basically I´ll need oil pan gasket, rear flange seal, 2x transmission axle seals for the gearbox, the clutch seal, SACHS clutch kit and I think thats all right?

 

[garciapiano]

He already answered your question.

when I do the clutch, I change everything that is easily accessible with the transmission out.

1. Flywheel
2. Pressure Plate
3. Flywheel Bolts (they are one time use)
4. Rear Main Seal
5. Input shaft seal / guide tube
6. Throwout Bearing
7. Release fork
8. Pivot Ball
9. Transmission Oil - fill is 2.1 L
10. Output shaft seals
11. 12x Output flange bolts (also one time use, don't forget the anti-rotation washers)
12. Transmission mount (because why not, it's like a $20 part)

Make sure you get some CV joint grease as well, I like to clean out the old stuff and put new stuff in when I bolt the axles up again.

I usually drop the oil pan to do the rear main seal, as the little "shelf" with the last three bolts on that edge can leak quite easily. I put RTV where the block, oil pan and RMS flange sits to prevent leaks.

 

[VW<3]

Ok, thanks for your support!

 

[HardToHandle]

I would also suggest pulling the passengers side axle flange if you haven't already

It is possible to do with both flanges installed but it can be a bit of a pain to get that flange behind the flywheel

And if you're replacing those seals anyway, you might as well remove them in the car and save a bunch of heartache. Just make sure to cover the holes with something to keep any debris out of the transmission

 

[travelfreak]

Hi, just today I changed clutch from authorised service centre. After tat my steering is not straight. They corrected it with alignment. Is it normal? Polo sedan 1.6 TDI India

 

[VW<3]

Yes because they probably took off the tie rod

 

[travelfreak]

Thanks

Yes because they probably took off the tie rod

 

[VW<3]

Do you know the size of the clutch
I see 230mm and 228mm
Also does the clutch for the golf 110cv works for mine?

 

[VW<3]

Guys I just checked we dont need the actually remove the oil pan we can remove the rear main seal without removing the oil pan

 

[VW<3]

Isnt the same procedure?
I mean the seal is really similar to that one

 

[VW<3]

Thats for a 1z/ahu

Screenshot-20250131-204133 hosted at ImgBB

Image Screenshot-20250131-204133 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[garciapiano]

Yes, you can remove the oil seal and flange without removing the oil pan, but three corners come together at that bottom edge and the likelihood of leaking is very high due to the way that the pan meets with the seal and the block. That’s why I always pull the pan if I’m doing the rear main. It’s so much work to fix that leak otherwise…

you can also clean it real good and put some RTV in the corner but still… I always belt and suspenders whenever it comes to working in this area due to the labor involved in pulling the trans a second time

 

[VW<3]

Right
But i was planning to use a jack underneath the oil pan to secure the engine...

 

[VW<3]

But is the procedure or assembly similar do the alh?

 

[VW<3]

Ok...
But i cant see the difference betwen dropping the pan and staying there
If i can get the bottom part cleaned wont it be the same?
Why would it cause to leak?
Sorry the ignorance but I havent found a video or a manual explaining the assembly...

 

[VW<3]

image hosted at ImgBB

Image image hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

image hosted at ImgBB

Image image hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Not sure if they are the same
( the manual its in italian)

 

[garciapiano]

Well if all you have to hold up the engine is a jack under the oil pan then you can’t do the procedure I described. I use an engine support cross bar to hold the engine up when I do clutch jobs.

In your case, get all sealing surfaces real clean and dry with the solvent of your choice and use blobs of RTV at the bottom corners. I think the last flange I did, I put Hondabond RTV around all sealing surfaces of the flange and have not since had an issue with any leaks there.

Another tip: It can be tricky to get the bolts in cleanly on the bottom three bolts of the rear main seal flange without cross threading, especially with the gearbox in place. That aluminum is soft and the bolt access sucks.

I personally use M6 studs loctited into the sealing flange in this location and nuts instead of the stock bolts to reduce the likelihood of cross-threading a bolt in the case I ever need to drop the pan again. Just make sure the stud doesn’t protrude too far past the end of the nut once it’s all tightened down, so you can get it all back out easily.