The diagnostic connector is bundled with harnesses P & Q, at least on the Mk3 cars. How it's done on the B4 I can't say for sure, I haven't looked at P or Q from the B4 chassis.
Red / white is a shared connection that originates from Q/3 on Mk3. It covers lighter, radio, amplified speakers etc.
The brown wires are bundled with others and joined to a larger ground that attaches at the driver side grounding block to the left of the dash board.
The grey / white wire must connect to the grey / white from the ECU (pin 61) and is referenced in one of my past photos. How it gets there on a B4 I don't know, on a Mk3 the DLC grey / white wire connection has to be made with this specific junction block.
Also, there's this post I did a while back here
I am trying to find a K1: short to ground as reported by the vag-com. I've traced the gr/ws wire from the OBD-II port to behind the instrument cluster. From there it branches off from a factory splice into 3 wires, all 3 are gr/ws. #1 goes into a brown plug that connects to a brown/yellow wire, I don't know where it goes yet. #2 goes into a different brown plug that connects to a gr/ws wire, I don't know where it goes yet. #3 goes to something that is attached to one of the sides of the fuse/relay block.
Does anyone know where these 3 wires terminate?
1996 Passat TDI, 5 Sp
When I converted my 89 Fox to diesel I excluded the old gasoline lift pump and kept the screen. I bridged the connection with a short length of metal pipe to maintain the same distance as the original assembly.Two questions:::
1-anybody have any tips for wiring the obd2 diagnostic plug in???
2-I'm using the in-talk pump for now as a lift pump...but it has a fine screen on the pick up tubr. I'm wondering if it'd be unwise to leave it on ? Or simply good to take it off or make a few bigger holes in it. Mainly wondering if gelling diesel will gob it up?
When you say "a metal pipe to bridge the gap" do you mean the gap left after removing the under-car pump?When I converted my 89 Fox to diesel I excluded the old gasoline lift pump and kept the screen. I bridged the connection with a short length of metal pipe to maintain the same distance as the original assembly.
The reason I did this was because I had tested the gasser lift pump and if fuel got below a certain level there was a hole that would allow some air to be introduced in the fuel stream. On a gas car where this pump only feeds an accumulator that the high pressure pump feeds off of it was fine but on a diesel where the fuel supply needed to be completely sealed it wouldn't work.
It would a good idea to get the Mk2 diesel sender and the one way valves that go in the fuel lines. You can either swap out the gas car fuel lines for Mk2 diesel lines or probably just bridge across the old high pressure pump with new hose.
Yes. I just found the white junction/jumper box that the harness clicked into. It had another gr/was wire running up towards the radio. I do remember reading something about that in another thread. People having obd problems after getting an aftermarket head unit. Oh well. Unless I hear something definitive, I'm going to leave that connection out.I did take a look at the B4 radio harness and found the dual gr/ws wires in brown connectors that you talked about. I'll see if I can relate them to something in the rest of the harness parts I have laying around and see if I can reconcile the diagram with what really exists
EDIT: I actually just figured out that there are three gr/ws wires in the radio harness and on my b4 harness the white junction block is still attached...lol.
Yeah, there is some kind of issue with OBD if you replace the radio with an aftermarket unit. Ok, just so this jives with what I'm looking at in the B4 harness I have, there is a gr/ws wire that comes from the OBD port (radio harness) that eventually splits into three wires, one is T2 female connector where only one pin is used, this connects to the corresponding brown T2 in the engine harness. The second gr/ws of the trio is the white T1 male connector that is for the junction block (with no known opposing connection?). The third connection is a T1 female in brown with no known destination. Does that sound about right?Yes. I just found the white junction/jumper box that the harness clicked into. It had another gr/was wire running up towards the radio. I do remember reading something about that in another thread. People having obd problems after getting an aftermarket head unit. Oh well. Unless I hear something definitive, I'm going to leave that connection out.
That's great progress!
I'm curious what you did for engine suspension at all three points, if you kept the Mk2 subframe mountings and which mounts you used. I definitely recommend swapping the front engine mount for the diesel hydraulic mount if you kept the Mk2 cross member, and if you did that you'll need to swap the 1Z forward mounting bracket for the Mk2 front bracket (parts cat calls this a console).
In the rear if you kept the mk2 sub frame definitely consider getting the late Mk2 16v hydraulic mount (passenger side).
Nice work, more pics when you have time!
Yes. I've got a few issues to sort out. I'm trying to avoid the move of the battery. But it does make a lot of sense when it comes to weight distribution.That would be a nice clean install but you'll have some work to do on the upper rad support and it looks like the driver side setup might conflict with the battery location quite a bit, unless you planned to move your battery to the rear of the car.