So the Soundaktor on mine is JUST power and ground, which makes physical switch control on mine easy, but prevents any sort of customizability. The CAN Gateway on mine is 5Q0907530.
Right now I'm working on cross flashing my MIB2's firmware from 0253 to 0478, removing the CID lock and updating maps. Tomorrow's project to finish up as it takes four separate firmware flashes to do it without bricking.
Are you certain you're looking at the soundaktor module and not the speaker? The speaker should just be two wires. The soundaktor sound is RPM based so that has to come from somewhere... On the Mk7 that is drivetrain can. Driving mode is also provided via that bus to tell the module which sound table to use. My assumption is this is the same/similar on PQ.
I wasn't completely clear before. The module connector is six pins... 4 inputs as mentioned (power ground drivetrain can high/lo) and 2 outputs (power and ground, to the speaker).
I missed this somehow. I would like to update my MIB to the latest version, whatever that is. But having had so many issues with my APG MIB 2.5 I'm afraid to mess with the one I have in there now (bought from the dealer, everything done properly, including lifetime map FEC, no faults). It has the occasional (like twice a month) glitch where bluetooth audio doesn't play although it says it's playing. I switch to any other source then back to bluetooth and all is well, no need to reboot or anything inconvenient like that.
Now back on(off) topic, I've started gathering the parts to retrofit electronic parking brake...
ABS Module (46 pin) 3Q0 907 379 AB (in my garage for years, thought needed for ACC but it wasn't, should have just changed it anyway)
Golf R (2015-17) Center Console 5G1 863 243 P (this is the base part number)
- I ordered a built up center console on eBay, I'll add the pieces part numbers later (cup holder, trim pieces, 12V plug, etc.)
EPB/Autohold Switch 5G0 927 225 D
Euro-spec ratcheting arm rest assembly 5G0 864 207 FCMR
So the Golf R is the only Mk7 Golf that got the EPB in the states. Mk7 Golfs in Europe are all equipped with EPB. Due to some regulation early Golf R's do not have an opening/ratcheting/sliding arm rest (although the cubby is underneath). VW decided against coming up with something specific for the (early) US Golf R's and installed a non-ratcheting/sliding mechanism which was locked. The console I bought is from an early Golf R so I needed this.
Arteon/Passat Cupholder Assembly, illuminated 3G0 862 531 G
- This will be part of my RGB lighting mods, speaking of which I am retrofitting a facelift BCM
- Copying this from Drive2... https://www.drive2.ru/l/594167288630902422/ (use translate)
- I already have the RGB LED's mentioned in this article, from before these plans
Right Caliper (with Motor) 5Q0 615 405 xx (the xx is for different colors/unpainted)
Left Caliper (with Motor) 5Q0 615 406 xx (the xx is for different colors/unpainted)
- You can buy the caliper and motor separately, for lots of money
- The bracket is separate, and is the only thing that differs between 272/310mm setups
- I have brackets for 310mm rear brakes on my car already so not replacing them as my rotors are new
And just how am I justifying this you ask? Several ways, in my mind...
My parents gave me $200 for my birthday and that was enough to buy the console and switch. Now I'm just getting everything to go with it.
Been driving the wife's Tesla and I'm a fan of being lazy at red lights, not needing to keep a foot on the brake pedal
I already have that stupid 46 pin ABS just sitting there, thanks @Nuje
Currently running GTI PP brakes and the e-brake cable comes in from the wrong side so the routing is funky... no more I say!
@JM Popaleetus Something pretty cool regarding Soundaktor retrofit. This firmware file lets the soundaktor work without driving profiles. It is the RS4 file, set to sport mode at all times. Because it works without driving profiles it cannot be turned on or off at will, but you can set it from 0-100% volume in adaptations.
You will need ODIS-E (offline) and a VAS5054 to flash it. I did try it, and it's pretty nice. The sound profile was originally intended for an engine that revs to 8k so it's running off that table. Very subtle until 3k (have to be listening for it, and radio pretty quiet) and then comes on nicely above 3k.
My windshield succumbed to a rock in one of the 11ty construction zones on I-91 this past week.
After calling a few of my trusted mechanics and body shops, then looking at reviews, I decided to go with East Coast Auto Glass. I cannot recommend Paul enough if you're near CT. European cars are a majority of his business and he knows his way around them, e.g., the Soundaktor.
He was happy to order the best glass he could source for my car: Pilkington with the acoustic layer originally meant for the Jetta Hybrid. It's so much more clear and quieter than the OEM Vitro.
On the flip side, it's so much thicker/quieter than the stock glass I can barely hear the Soundaktor now .
Nice... there were more than a few moments that I considered ordering the electrically heated front windshield for my Golf. In the end I just wanted the front camera mount and I would honestly never use a heated windshield.
How is the soundaktor mounted in that car? On the Golf it's mounted here (lazy link but has pictures). The full name is Structure Borne Sound Actuator or something like that. The sound comes more from the "engine area" than from the windshield, if that makes sense. I'm not sure a thicker windshield would do much to impact the sound.
The GTI/R folks often complained of it rattling the dash. Mine does no such thing, granted I'm not running the same sound files as they are.
That's interesting. Maybe more sound is coming "through" the window than I thought. I suppose the windshield could be acting as an uncomplicated diaphragm not unlike some new aviation products... https://bongioviacoustics.com/aviation/. Your new glass would be worse at transmitting the sound I suppose, fancy acoustic layer and what not, haha.
I have RS4 firmware installed on my soundaktor, so the sound isn't diesel like... but it IS awesome, haha. It makes me want to rev the car out. Plus I can turn it off with driving profile selection so the loudness is only when I want it.
Whelp I've discovered that my GLI uses the 22.2mm master cylinder. So I'm adding a 23.8 or 25.4 mm, from the Mk6 Golf R or the TTS respectively. Any thoughts @Cuzoe? I don't plan on going bigger than the 240mm PP brakes as I want to keep my 17" wheels in the winter. Thinking one from the GTI might be the best bet to not overdo it while also being better.
Edit: Doing some digging, I might be limited to the 23.8 from a late model NMS Passat for a straight bolt-on.
Whelp I've discovered that my GLI uses the 22.2mm master cylinder. So I'm adding a 23.8 or 25.4 mm, from the Mk7 Golfs or the TTS respectively. Any thoughts @Cuzoe? I don't plan on going bigger than the 240mm PP brakes as I want to keep my 17" wheels in the winter. Thinking one from the GTI might be the best bet to not overdo it while also being better.
Doing some digging, I might be limited to the 23.8 from a late model NMS Passat for a straight bolt-on.
My thoughts are see what it feels like without changing the MC first. Make the ABS tweaks though (if they apply to the PQ?). I suppose the post install work for the MC is basically the same as for doing the brakes. But I like to keep my hands clean .
The GTI MC is uses in everything up to 6 pots in the TT-RS, with different ABS module settings. But that suggests it's overkill for the GTI brakes by a good margin, which further suggests (to me) that a smaller MC is perfectly sufficient.
As you know, I've gone stock > 6 pots > 4 pots with the Golf MC. No comment from the wife, sister or either of my parents when they drove the car so I would argue no issue.
This is going to sound stupid coming from me having spent (or wasted, depending on who you ask) so much money upgrading the car... but it's expensive . I do like it though, and were it not for the 6-month-old dubber in the house I might consider giving it a go .
I don't doubt that it works better than the factory driver assist system(s) but I'm not sure it really gets me anything. Resuming ACC from a stop is available with the OEM equipment, just requires flashing the camera with software that includes Traffic Jam Assist (TJA).
And although the auto resume is not a thing on a 6MT, TJA does still "work" in providing lane keeping assist below 30 mph. What I don't remember with certainty is whether or not lane assist is active from a stop. I think it might be dependent on there being a car in front of you to give the system a rough idea of where the lane is for the short time it takes for it to positively identify street lines once you start rolling.
I looked at comma.ai a while ago, too, and agreed - certainly looks intriguing.
In addition to @Cuzoe's sentiment of "not sure what this gains for me", I feel like I've moved past that stage of my retrofit habit (affliction?) where I'd throw all sorts of third-party hardware at my car and do things like use an iPad Mini as my car stereo interface in a Mk4, instead preferring to do the "OEM+" type mods where it was or available from VW on my car (or other VW cars), just not on my model or market.
Not saying that's "better", but it's where I'm at.
(Having just said all that, however, I am reminded that I do have a third-party aftermarket power hatch lift kit sitting in the garage that's intended for my GSW, so....).
I completely agree with OEM+ being the way to go. I just thought it was super cool, especially with the project aiming to interface completely with the car's own wiring and camera. Also, I just appreciate that it's open source.
Also, that's a fun fact to know that VW's IQ.Drive suite can be enabled on older models via software flash.
It is a super cool project. I wish I had another car, and the time, to set it up and use it.
And as far as the IQ.Drive (a new term for me didn't know about it but did look it up after you mentioned it) I see it's basically a combination of all of the possible assistance features. And yes you can have all of that on the MK7. The last part, to actually enable Travel Assist (their semi autonomous driving mode) requires installing the latest generation, 2Q0 camera and the "Mk8" steering wheel (has touch sensors in the rim, so you don't have to apply torque to the wheel for it to know your hands are still there).
Assisted lane changes should also be possible if you install 2Q0 blind spot monitors . That is, with travel assist activated, tap your turn signal and the car changs to the next lane as long as it's safe to do so.
Have not been here for a while. I did get a "quote" on having all the FEC/SWAP's activated on a 2Q0 camera... about $750 at current exchange rates. I can do a lot of other things (to the car and otherwise) for that amount of money.
The plan for this weekend is to get my NAR spec facelift BCM installed and component protection handled. I currently have an EU spec facelift BCM. The only thing that doesn't work is the key fob (non KESSY). And by doesn't work I mean the fob only works when placed inches away from the BCM.
Outside of the US the key fobs are 433 MHz. Here they are 315 MHz. Interestingly the BCM does let you choose 315 or 433. But a 433 MHz antenna should be 17.3 cm, while a 315 MHz antenna should be 23.8 cm. So... I have to assume my EU spec BCM has the shorter antenna, which does a poor job with 315 MHz reception.
What else is new... waiting for EPB center console top piece to arrive from Latvia, ordered months ago. Had to order from EU because there are no Mk7 Golfs in the US with EPB without push button start. The only Mk7 Golfs here with EPB are the Golf R and E-Golf... both push button start. It took some digging to even find the part number (5G1864263AMKMR) and even then I couldn't get my go-to dealer to order it. Said it didn't show up in their system.
I've had that happen on a couple of things, too. Like a black headliner for a GSW - part number I dug up (and by "I", I mean "@Cuzoe doing all of the heavy lifting" ) shows as being a valid VW item, but not available for them to order, even from Germany.
Yea... I ordered from e-acca. They actually emailed at one point and with info that two of their suppliers said these were no longer available. They asked if I wanted a refund or for them to try another supplier that showed one but with a higher price. The difference in price was less than $20 and that supplier ultimately came through.
BCM replacement is done now... this is the 4th, and hopefully last, BCM to go into my car. This one is PN 5Q0 937 085 CC, came out of an Audi A3 of some type, highline though, 30 color ambient light capable, and no long coding as typical of "facelift" BCM's.
And I'm happy to report... my key fob now works more than 6 inches away from the BCM . In fact it's working from the second floor of my house, garage being under the house. So it's back to the range I had when I bought the car. Oddly when I had my second BCM installed (pre-facelift, highline) the fob worked but not from more than maybe 10 feet away, and not even through the kitchen floor (which is directly above the garage). I guess that BCM had an issue.
While I was waiting on VAG retrofit and coding to take care of CP on the BCM I installed the windshield washers from an Audi A6 (and undoubtedly other Audi's as well). They spray 3 large jets and the fan shaped mist at the same time... 4G0 955 987A and 988A. Now... these are also heated, and the factory ones are not . I live in LA where there is zero chance my nozzles will ever freeze over but... I guess that's being added to the future retrofit list .
Not without complications, I broke the little clip that holds the hose onto the sprayer, replacement part is 3B0955665C, picking that up tomorrow along with a replacement battery tray since I broke one of the posts while removing my intake to make a shifter cable adjustment... battery tray is 5Q0915331K, in case you were wondering, haha.
Note, the rubber bushing that secures the Neuspeed intake to the battery tray is much stiffer than the rubber bushings that hold the OEM airbox. I understand why the top of the posts are shaped the way they are, though a chamfer on the bottom side would help when removing, just like the chamfer on the top helps when installing. But I wouldn't care at all if I hadn't broke one. And the rubber bushing would likely have a little more give if it were a warm/hot day. I'm almost positive I tore the rubber on my stock airbox (with no negative impact) but the rubber on the Neuspeed intake did not tear... took the post right off!
New battery tray installed, and adjusted my shifter cable ends. The front-back cable needed it the most, the Coolerworx felt too far forward in neutral. I think the side-side to could still be adjusted for even shorter throws but it feels quite good right now. Need to order a different shift knob though. I do not like the feel of the one that comes on there .
Gotta go out and waste washer fluid testing the new nozzles so I can adjust the aim properly.
A while back I ordered/received Mk8 GTD hatch lettering, 5H0853687B2ZZ . This is the large lettering, under the hatch release on the back of the Mk8's, not the small side lettering from the Mk7. My car is, of course, not a GTD so I ordered Mk8 GTI hatch lettering, 5H0853687FJZQ. I've been low balling "or best offer's" on eBay for a couple months, finally got accepted for $30 shipped, haha.
Anyway, with their powers combined I'll be able to put "TDI" in the center of my rear hatch, in the larger Mk8 style. And of course if I'm going to have that lettering it only makes sense to have the smooth Mk8 hatch emblem, 5H0853630ADPJ
Inspiration from here... I like the smooth front emblem but it's for facelift cars with radar behind them emblem. If I can find one cheap I'll try it, even though my radar is down in the grill.
I ended up getting an offer for my GLI for more than I paid and had put into it...which...well heck, I had to sell.
But, I bought something neat:
Couldn't find the perfect 9-3 Aero, so I went with a different orphan car make. A 2013 Suzuki Kizashi SLS. Basically has the same options you'd find in a Passat SEL of the same year with a decent sound system, auto wipers, full heated leather, etc. But also AWD, and it's a trick system where you can enable/disable the Haldex clutch with a switch.
Paid $9k for it with 60k 1-Owner miles. The interior is like new and the exterior, not bad...a paint correction will bring it to a 7-8/10. This should easily hold me over until the Mk8.5 R that supposedly has physical buttons again.
It's sad because although "slow" (same 0-60 as our TDIs), you can tell the engineers at Suzuki really tried and believed this was going to be the car to save them in the USA. The car has a lot of spirit for what it is.