JFettig
Vendor
For what its worth, mine dumps to the ground right now, over 10,000 miles, I have had zero oil loss per the dipstick.
Mean Green Biodiesel Machine build
- Thread starter brnsgrbr
- Start date
JFettig
Vendor
Yup, my valve stem seals were floating around on my valves, not sealing. Put new ones on my ported head when I swapped that over and haven't consumed anything since.
just fyi... i have been running B100 in the commonrail build i have and its not skipped a beat and its been many of thousands of miles so far.. what build are using to make your fuel?? most important factor is FILTRATION!!!
This is the setup i currently have for my B100...
This is the setup i currently have for my B100...
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
oh ok, i was not sure if you made your own or not.. i make my own and it comes out to $0.273 per gallon to make on current price of 55 gallon barrel of meth... its the dang fluctuation in price of meth that makes the cost go up and down.. the lye hasnt changed in years.. it was only a few pennys different moving from colorado to florida and finding new supplies..
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97B4TDi
Veteran Member
Where did you get that setup and how much did it set you back?
i built it myself with commercial containers i found online.. i have redone it multiple times through the years because of trial and error and things i did wrong through the years.. so i am not wanting to know how much i have in it.. but this current setup.. has been doing me well for the past 5 years without a skip..
Biodezl
Veteran Member
Storx,
A note of extreme caution. The conical-bottomed separation tanks have been found to be responsible for excess glycerol in the bio. The problem is that this setup involves draining the glycerol first, but it sticks to the sides of the conical-bottomed tanks and mixes in with the biodiesel. The concentrations are high enough to cause problems with fuel quality including gelling, fouling of filters, and any particulates in the glycerol also get stuck in the biodiesel.
The preferred design involves a flat-bottom container and a fixed or variable-height drain tube that sucks the biodiesel at about 1/2 inch above the level of the glycerol. Once the good stuff is out, you drain off the glycerol.
I'm not an expert and have never made a gallon of biodiesel myself, so I don't mean to be critical for no reason. I'm just sharing what I've learned from others who have been involved in the home-brew business.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
A note of extreme caution. The conical-bottomed separation tanks have been found to be responsible for excess glycerol in the bio. The problem is that this setup involves draining the glycerol first, but it sticks to the sides of the conical-bottomed tanks and mixes in with the biodiesel. The concentrations are high enough to cause problems with fuel quality including gelling, fouling of filters, and any particulates in the glycerol also get stuck in the biodiesel.
The preferred design involves a flat-bottom container and a fixed or variable-height drain tube that sucks the biodiesel at about 1/2 inch above the level of the glycerol. Once the good stuff is out, you drain off the glycerol.
I'm not an expert and have never made a gallon of biodiesel myself, so I don't mean to be critical for no reason. I'm just sharing what I've learned from others who have been involved in the home-brew business.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Keep in mind guys, that this is an engine build thread, not a biodiesel production build. Good info though.
On another note. I am trying to sell off a bunch of stuff to pay for a SMF and clutch. I did not realize that it going to run $1000+ for the 6 speed version. Why is the flywheel so much?
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On another note. I am trying to sell off a bunch of stuff to pay for a SMF and clutch. I did not realize that it going to run $1000+ for the 6 speed version. Why is the flywheel so much?
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brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Hey something just jumped out at me. I provided the machinist with an ALH 1.9 ltr 3 hole head gasket. My block is being bored out to 2.0. Will it work? Can it bored too? Is there another that I have get?
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Whitbread
Vendor , w/Business number
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Thank you
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A5INKY
Vendor , w/Business number
Curious why your machinist needs a HG? Used to hone the bores w/ a torque plate? You really won't know which thickness you will end up needing until the bottom end is assembled.
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Just trying to provide him with everything in advance. Since, the CR needs to be lowered anyway, the 3 hole helps that a little.
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A5INKY
Vendor , w/Business number
I would think that you would want to aim for a more nominal (requiring a 2-hole HG) piston protrusion with your machining efforts. Curious what more experienced builders like Whitbread or 'poopie might say about lowering CR with the HG. I would think that too ghetto for the quality of your build.
Whitbread
Vendor , w/Business number
Lowering CR with head gasket is the vortex way of building a motor. However, FWIW 4 out of 5 motors I build end up needing a 3 hole from measured protrusion.
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A5INKY
Vendor , w/Business number
Whitbread, where do you get those 4-hole HGs?
Sounds to me like a good argument for machining the block and doing a test fit prior to any piston machining.
Just curious, but how does one determine final CR with an engine that has protruding pistons? CC the piston tops somehow and calc from there?
OP, what CR are you aiming for? I would think the lower CR provided by the BHW pistons vs. ALH might be just fine with your stated boost goal.
Sounds to me like a good argument for machining the block and doing a test fit prior to any piston machining.Just curious, but how does one determine final CR with an engine that has protruding pistons? CC the piston tops somehow and calc from there?
OP, what CR are you aiming for? I would think the lower CR provided by the BHW pistons vs. ALH might be just fine with your stated boost goal.
Whitbread
Vendor , w/Business number
Woops, fat fingers, fixed haha.
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
I am shooting for for 18:1. The pistons lower to 18.5 stock. A little more from the HG won't hurt.Whitbread, where do you get those 4-hole HGs?
Just curious, but how does one determine final CR with an engine that has protruding pistons? CC the piston tops somehow and calc from there?
OP, what CR are you aiming for? I would think the lower CR provided by the BHW pistons vs. ALH might be just fine with your stated boost goal.
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Whitbread
Vendor , w/Business number
The problem with making the head gasket thicker when not needed is that you decrease the number of crank degrees the injection event will be in the piston bowl. This creates more smoke and egt's for the same injection duration than with the correct head gasket that piston protrusion dictates.
A5INKY
Vendor , w/Business number
^this
Your build is so quality on so many fronts, the combustion chamber is the last place to hazard a guess. There is so much going on in there, it is where the magic (hopefully) happens.
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
I did not know. Since I haven't purchased the replacement gasket. I will wait. I am lucky that you guys care so I am not completely wandering in the dark.
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JFettig
Vendor
Also keep in mind - you're replacing pistons and rods.. just because it had a 2 hole gasket before doesn't mean it'll have one this time. Mine ended up having almost .007" more protrusion with new pistons and rods.
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Just an update, donor engine has been disassembled. Machining starts next week. Picked up parts that have bee removed and are up for sale here:
FS:-ALH-rods,-pistons,-&-head
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=386060
I also added a new 3 hole ALH head gasket and oil pan.
Waiting on quotes for clutches for my six speed.
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FS:-ALH-rods,-pistons,-&-head
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=386060
I also added a new 3 hole ALH head gasket and oil pan.
Waiting on quotes for clutches for my six speed.
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brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
SBC clutch ordered with billet SMF flywheel ordered.
Thanks Matt.
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Thanks Matt.
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brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
The machinist/engine builder is happy now. The rotating assembly can be balanced now.
Thanks Matt
The builder was impressed by the beefy springs and the flywheel.
Metallic on one one side and organic on the other.
Thanks Matt
The builder was impressed by the beefy springs and the flywheel.
Metallic on one one side and organic on the other.
brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Well my block has been bored out and assembled for protrusion measurements. Here is the text I just received. I am looking for input on a 1,2, or 3 hole BHW gasket.
"Hey Darius, the piston is .040 out of the hole and with your old head gasket is .035 down. .040 to .045 would better with the higher exhaust temps maybe a touch more for safety."
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"Hey Darius, the piston is .040 out of the hole and with your old head gasket is .035 down. .040 to .045 would better with the higher exhaust temps maybe a touch more for safety."
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brnsgrbr
Veteran Member
Here are gaskets I can get
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