Mean Green Biodiesel Machine build

[brnsgrbr]

Well I guess it's my turn. I have been accumulating parts for the last few years. For me, this is a bucket list item. I have always wanted to build a custom engine.

I grew up with an odd mix of vehicles. First car was a Nova (Actually the Pontiac version), then a 67 Camaro. It got destroyed while parked by drunk teenagers. I miss that car sooo much. My family had a Rabbits, Golfs, Bugs, & MB diesels to boot. I loved driving my dad's Golf in the windy mountain roads up here in the PNW.

After having a variety of vehicles over the last 20 years that were not VWs, I found my way back. Fuel prices shot up over the last decade and my cars consumed too much and reliability was horrible.

4 years ago, after a month of research on this site that someone told me about I hunted for a MK4 2 door manual Golf. In the PNW, I could not find one that was both a 2 door and a manual. So I settled for an Auto, knowing what I would be in for.

First thing I did, was the timing belt kit and tools from Diesel Geek. Then his Full metal Jacket kit (that has saved a more than a few times in the rural area foothills (in the shadow of Mt Ranier)). Then I upgraded my suspension to Koni FSDs, sport springs and a rear shine bar. Put on Cross-drilled Zimmerman rotors and put in TT control arm bushings. Got a VW michael (TDTuning) custom stage 3 tune and dropped some Sprint nozzles in. I bought a Bleached Bora O2M DRW 6 speed conversion kit, with Peloquin LSD. Installed by my friends at Dub Autowerks. http://www.dubautowerks.com/
Bought some 18s, installed a 2.5" FMIC, and installed PD lift pump.

OMG, I am typing this and realizing I really have an addiction. Whoa.... Oh Well, I upgraded my beige cloth interior to Black Sport leather. Swapped in black carpet, put in sound deadening, and installed an aftermarket sound system with amps and a sub. Converted my panels to black leather to achieve a black'n tan effect. Installed a 1/2 MAF sport euro cluster and leather 3 spoke steering wheel.

Parts for the build:
Ryan P GTB2260VK kit

ALH block & crank from Kiwibrew
ASV pistons oversized

IE Tuscan Rods from IDparts

Whitbread girdle from Pierre
Rebuilt, ported, polished head (left swirl intact), with a stage 2 cam and HD springs by Frank

Aero muffler/resonator
4 bar MAP sensor
PD130 intake
3" catback exhaust from Kerma
R32 air box, MAF housing, assembly
R520 nozzles

Goals:
A strong platform, that safely achieves and maintains 200+ HP, is still a daily driver that I can rock'n roll/funk in, that runs on biofuels and that I can road trip to TDIfests in.

Thanks to:
TDI club, its founder and moderators. The vendors, too many to list. The members, like OCTDI, Mr. Chill, TDIMiester, VWmichael, Paramedic, and the like who's years of input, advice and how to's we have benefited from. There are many many more that I cannot think of right now.







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[brnsgrbr]

I want this engine to last. It's an ALH so I can run biofuels. I started this thread because I am not 100% sure I am going forward with the parts I have.

I still might want to go with BHW pistons since I have to bore the block anyway.

I am not sure if or how much to lower CR because I run biodiesel that doesn't have quite the BTUs Dino diesel has. So can I get away with stock compression?

I am open to criticism and advice, please make it as constructive and helpful as possible.

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[whatnxt]

There is no vaccine for the mod addiction bug.

You have developed a great personalized ride.

 

[brnsgrbr]

There is no vaccine for the mod addiction bug.

You have developed a great personalized ride.

Thanks Jorry. BTW, any GTG this summer?


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[O.C.TDI]

I have a set of BHW pistons that I had the valve reliefs deepened and oversized, already coated and ready to go if you are interested.

Shoot me a PM

O.C.

 

[JFettig]

Looks good, have fun with the build!

Those rods won't work with BHW pistons unless one is modified. You'll need PD tapered small end style rods to work with BHW pistons.

 

[brnsgrbr]

I have a set of BHW pistons that I had the valve reliefs deepened and oversized, already coated and ready to go if you are interested.

Shoot me a PM

O.C.

Is it going to be more difficult (take more fuel) for my 8 valve VE to power those bad boys?


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[brnsgrbr]

Looks good, have fun with the build!

Those rods won't work with BHW pistons unless one is modified. You'll need PD tapered small end style rods to work with BHW pistons.

Thanks for the heads up.


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[brnsgrbr]

So I started talking to local machine shops to balance and blueprint my rotating assembly.

I did not know that the need the flywheel and clutch assembly! My golf is my daily driver. Hmm, I might have to fork out more $ a new clutch.


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[Lurchalicious]

Hmm, I might have to fork out more $ a new clutch.

I dont know what clutch you run now - but if its the LUK DMF set up you have in your sig - I would seriously look at a south bend clutch set up - particularly the stage 3 edurance kit to give you some head room with the torque numbers you will be producing

 

[brnsgrbr]

From what I am finding its either that SB 3 or 4, or a DC. But I don't see any vendors selling a 6speed DC.


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[IndigoBlueWagon]

SBC Stage 2 Endurance would be plenty for your (or just about any) setup. Or you can have a Valeo kit modified, which some say is quieter.

 

[mrchill]

Are you going to run soley biodiesel? Or vegetable oil also? If you run bio, what concentrations will you run and what source will you use? Commercial or small batch. All these things matter.

 

[brnsgrbr]

Are you going to run soley biodiesel? Or vegetable oil also? If you run bio, what concentrations will you run and what source will you use? Commercial or small batch. All these things matter.

Commercial. 100% spring through fall. There is a winter blend during the cold. No straight veg or waste vegetable oil. The west coast has a chain called Propel that I have been running for a few years.

In an earlier post, I put out there that since BioD doesn't have the btus that DinoD has, could I get away with stock compression.


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[mrchill]

Yes. Depending on your hp\tq goals, stock cr is just fine. One only really needs to reduce cr when running boost levels beyond 25 or so. You can in fact run stock cr at 30 psi...but many other changes must be made to accommodate that.

 

[brnsgrbr]

Recommendations? I want to do this right.

At the bottom of my 1st post, list my goals and list the components for my build. 35psi peak but will be happy with 30psi.

I am jumping from a VNT15 to the Gtb2260vk. So in the beginning, through this winter I will be happy breaking the 200hp barrier.

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[brnsgrbr]

Picking an engine stand today.

Received my 3" exhaust yesterday.


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[loudspl]

I ran/run commercial B99....yes you can expect a noticeable difference in power vs. D2

I ran stock CR for a while w/ 2260 but keep in mind PCP will be very high even at 30psi if you are running a heavy fuel tune

My vote is for the BHWs. Exchange the Tuscans for their regular H-beams. Tuscans are not necessary.
Also, Clutch Masters makes a pretty strong twin disc clutch for the 02M. IIRC Whitbread has one for his car. SBC or DC are good choices too

 

[brnsgrbr]

I ran/run commercial B99....yes you can expect a noticeable difference in power vs. D2

I ran stock CR for a while w/ 2260 but keep in mind PCP will be very high even at 30psi if you are running a heavy fuel tune

My vote is for the BHWs. Exchange the Tuscans for their regular H-beams. Tuscans are not necessary.
Also, Clutch Masters makes a pretty strong twin disc clutch for the 02M. IIRC Whitbread has one for his car. SBC or DC are good choices too

Input, input, & more. Thanks
Especially on the clutch. I heard that the injection angle into the BHW bowl with the VE head if wrong and misses the bowl.

I have started looking at Diamond Racing. For piston possibilities. But if the price gets out of hand....

The Tuscans are only like 10 grams more. I plan to keep them. But that could change.

I need to pick up my extra engine an strip it. Sell the head, pistons, and rods. Send the block off boring.


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[Whitbread]

There are ton's of alh's out there with bhw pistons, they run just fine. Isn't the difference like .050" in the bowl center or something? That's hardly anything. Drive more, worry less.

Keep your rods, just have the small end profiled to run pd pistons if you choose. Any competent machine shop should be able to easily do it.

Don't bother with diamond pistons, they can't put the steel band in for the top ring so the ring land wears out somewhere between 20-50Kmi. Fine if you're building a race motor though. Google around on street cummins/duramax motors with forged pistons.

As for a clutch, run a SBC tdi weight flywheel, kevlar disc if you want smooth engagement, ofe disk if you want to do drag race starts all the time, and the SS pressure plate. Will hold anything you can throw at it. Put on the USP Motorsports braided clutch line while you're in there.

 

[brnsgrbr]

Thanks Matt

So the 17 & 14 lb flywheels are not recommended?


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[Skullbag]

Nice!

Will be watching this thread. I haven't done any tuning to my BEW, but did the clutch last summer at 140K miles and put in the SB stage 2 endurance to prepare. Just got the koni str-t and HR sport springs that I need to put in when I have time. Want to do exhaust and a tune as well. Not sure about the BEW's with biofuel, but it's so limited in the DC area unfortunately. Will have to read up on it. Will watch your build though. Did you get the exhaust with a muffler or straight pipe? My inspection rules are pretty tight in VA so I haven't figured out which route to go.

 

[brnsgrbr]

Exhaust with a high flow CAT, no muffler. I have a resonator that I might fit later if I don't like what I hear.


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[Whitbread]

Thanks Matt

So the 17 & 14 lb flywheels are not recommended?


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IMO the sacrifice in driving smoothness and the really loud gear rattle isn't worth the minute benefits of a light flywheel on a low revving engine. While light flywheels rev up faster, they also rev down faster basically letting the engine return to idle the moment you push the clutch in. In the cars ive driven with a 14lb flywheel, you have to slam shifts to catch the rpms falling at the right time or blip the throttle if you were too slow. It totally ruins the perfect/smooth driving manners TDI's have.

 

[runonbeer]

I would pop your Trans open and reinforce the selectors or just install the steel aftermarkets.

That's something I wish I had done to both of my 02Ms when I had them out.

 

[Whitbread]

I would pop your Trans open and reinforce the selectors or just install the steel aftermarkets.

That's something I wish I had done to both of my 02Ms when I had them out.

its super easy to knock the rivets out of the forks and put cap screws in . I do it to everyone single one that I install.

The "aftermarket" forks are just 02q forks.

 

[brnsgrbr]

I would pop your Trans open and reinforce the selectors or just install the steel aftermarkets.

I have the reinforced fork if that is what you mean by selector. Otherwise, please elaborate so I understand .


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[brnsgrbr]

IMO the sacrifice in driving smoothness and the really loud gear rattle isn't worth the minute benefits of a light flywheel on a low revving engine. While light flywheels rev up faster, they also rev down faster basically letting the engine return to idle the moment you push the clutch in. In the cars ive driven with a 14lb flywheel, you have to slam shifts to catch the rpms falling at the right time or blip the throttle if you were too slow. It totally ruins the perfect/smooth driving manners TDI's have.

That is good to know.

On the other hand, would the faster revving help my GTB2260 spool faster?

Also, curious about how much more mass do the BHWs have over the .5 over ASV pistons? Could that extra mass offset the gains?


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[A5INKY]

Nice build plan. Should be a fun one.

Matt is spot on. I have a 14# flywheel and look forward to changing it out to a much heavier one next chance I get. There are no "gains" to be had with light weight FW in a TDI, only downsides as Matt mentioned. I will mention another problem with the light weight FWs, sometimes the lack of rotational dampening will cause the car to hunt around specified idle speed and kind of lope. It doesn't happen often but is really annoying.

And no, I cannot see light FW having any positive influence on turbo spool-up. If it has any influence (though probably fairly insignificant) it would likely be a negative one. Engine load builds exhaust energy which drives the turbo.

My next FW will be in the 22-23# range, minimum.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

A colleague here had a problem with chugging and slow down shudder on his '99.5 Golf, regardless of IQ setting. He just replaced the 14 lb. flywheel with a 22 lb. one. I drove it this morning: problem is totally solved.