So, got bored and stuff. Here's the results.
Jig to hold it to the rotab took about 8 hours to make.
Milling out the bulk of the material, mainly to learn about the mill, and also because doing it all on the brake lathe would suck.
Pretty good hogging pass for a crappy italian bridgeport clone that was $1200, rotary table, vise, and collets included.
Done on the mill more or less.
Skip a few steps because I forgot to take pics, and there you are.
The flywheel was turned on the brake lathe, both the surface and the sides of the "pot", mainly because I don't want iron
on my lathe's ways.
The ring gear came off, and the slots for the drive lugs were milled in there, then the ring gear pressed (hammered) back on.
Floater plate and the spacer ring were both made out of brake rotors, because cheap.
You can see in the upper right there are some balance holes I drilled, balanced it on the tire balancer at work, heh. Figured
.35oz is close enough for me, parts'll flop around in there quite a bit anyways.
Floater has the step in it both to clear the spacer ring, and to add drive lug meat.
Didn't know if the not all that supported starter ring gear wouldn't just spin on the decreased bearing surface, so I made the
spacer plate such that it presses on the ring gear first, and has about .005" clearance before touching the flywheel's iron.
Pics are huge and untrimmed because MS paint doesn't seem to want to work under wine in loonicks.
Gonna use two stock DMF friction discs , just gotta cut the drive hubs down a bit so they all stack in there and don't rub on
the input bearing retainer's snout.
You know there's only 1/32" of clearance with the sachs DMF setup to the final drive housing in the bellhousing? Bad design.
Luckily the 2L gas flywheel has 7mm of extra room in there. First thought it wasn't going to work until I figured that bit out.
Oh, and another interesting thing for those who have done a clutch job and wondered why it only fits pp-flywheel one way, the
bolts are all equally spaced, the alignment dowels are more or less, one of them is a single, one (1) degree off to one side, to
line up the slots in the pp fingers with the crank bolts.
Jig to hold it to the rotab took about 8 hours to make.

Milling out the bulk of the material, mainly to learn about the mill, and also because doing it all on the brake lathe would suck.

Pretty good hogging pass for a crappy italian bridgeport clone that was $1200, rotary table, vise, and collets included.

Done on the mill more or less.

Skip a few steps because I forgot to take pics, and there you are.

The flywheel was turned on the brake lathe, both the surface and the sides of the "pot", mainly because I don't want iron
on my lathe's ways.
The ring gear came off, and the slots for the drive lugs were milled in there, then the ring gear pressed (hammered) back on.
Floater plate and the spacer ring were both made out of brake rotors, because cheap.
You can see in the upper right there are some balance holes I drilled, balanced it on the tire balancer at work, heh. Figured
.35oz is close enough for me, parts'll flop around in there quite a bit anyways.

Floater has the step in it both to clear the spacer ring, and to add drive lug meat.

Didn't know if the not all that supported starter ring gear wouldn't just spin on the decreased bearing surface, so I made the
spacer plate such that it presses on the ring gear first, and has about .005" clearance before touching the flywheel's iron.


Pics are huge and untrimmed because MS paint doesn't seem to want to work under wine in loonicks.
Gonna use two stock DMF friction discs , just gotta cut the drive hubs down a bit so they all stack in there and don't rub on
the input bearing retainer's snout.
You know there's only 1/32" of clearance with the sachs DMF setup to the final drive housing in the bellhousing? Bad design.
Luckily the 2L gas flywheel has 7mm of extra room in there. First thought it wasn't going to work until I figured that bit out.
Oh, and another interesting thing for those who have done a clutch job and wondered why it only fits pp-flywheel one way, the
bolts are all equally spaced, the alignment dowels are more or less, one of them is a single, one (1) degree off to one side, to
line up the slots in the pp fingers with the crank bolts.
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