Lurk's Mandral Pipes Projects

LurkerMike

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Fix_Until_Broke said:
Mike - if your price point for 3" is comparable to others who offer 2.5" you should go with the 3".
Actually, if I do a 3", it *should* be less in price than any other non-Chinese mandrel bent pipe. You just can't get pipes made any cheaper than in China. All of my raw stock comes from one of two sources, one Canadian and one US. And they are CNC mandrel bent here in Atlanta.

My cat-back pipe *should* be somewhat compatible to most other DP's as I will carry the OEM centerline with the cat-back from he point the OEM cat-back begins.

I can see where I might sell a few 3" cat-backs like this to people who already have an upgraded DP. I could also see where if my price is right, I might work a deal to supply a 3" cat-back to other vendors for use with their DP's.

If I go with 2.5", I don't have as much potential in these areas, but I could save a few bucks in a 2.5" to 3" transition and I could probably have the whole 2.5" system bent in one pull from the flex to the exhaust tip and all I would have to do is cut it into sections rather than bend the individual pipe segments separately.

But it would likely be less than $50 difference.
 

rhussjr

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I honestly do not see the need for a downpipe larger than 2.5" on the TDI (even if it is a 2.0 TDI). Now, if it was a high powered turbocharged VR6 (or other large displacement engine) then 3.0" would be called for. Several years ago, my buddy Dave and I built a Corrado running a PT74 turbo and were running 30 psi on C16 race fuel. It had a 3" downpipe and made 617 HP to the wheels.
 

Nash_TDI

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I vote for 2.5 inch. All the add on bits are cheaper and that size and more available.
 

woofie2

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I am not going much over 2.5" personally, Although I would like to hear a 3" on a TDI. All the 3" exhaust kits I have heard, on motors smaller than 2L, are way to loud and bawl or drone like crazy, especially at highway speeds and cruising.

What effect do they have on the engine and do all exhausts increase power?
This component affects the Blow phase of combustion - getting rid of the exhaust fumes is important and the less pressure there is in the exhaust system the higher the BHP produced.

However the rate of flow or velocity of the exhaust gases also comes into the equation. Big exhausts slow up the flow and smaller ones increase it. You have to balance the exhaust to give the best flow rate without causing backpressure (a delay of exhaust gases unable to escape quickly.)

the standard Rule of thumb is 1" of exhaust size for each liter of engine size, and over 3 liters go to dual exhaust at 1/2 the liter size so a 1.9L should have a 2" exhaust.

so a light/mildly modded TDI with a max exhaust flow rate of 1312.7 CFM should be fine with a 2.5" ehaxhaust, a 3" will increase temperatures with higher backpressures.
(MAX exhaust flowrate based on 5500 RPM a this formula- http://www.donaldson.com/en/exhaust/support/datalibrary/053704.pdf )
 

tdi4kev

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03 Jetta GLS Reflex Silver 5 spd leather
2.5 for me

Awesome to hear of the progress, I'd prefer the 2.5 simply because of the price difference and I never plan to modify mine enough to need a 3". Can't wait!
 

LurkerMike

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Thanks for the input...

I think the best route will be for me to get the 2.5" out ASAP.

Because it will be a modular system, the 3" option can be added later. Probably some months later. Trying to make the 2.5" and the 3" available at the DP launch would only add more delays.

And if I were to make a super light weight anodized aluminum cat-back option for those who race and don't drive in the rain and snow, I could do it 3" when I get to the 3".

My goal is to have some of the 2.5" complete systems available at KROUT's GTG for sale and feedback before I commit them to online global availability.
 

mrwizard

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i think the 3" would be overkill...my 2.5" catback is a little droney as it is, i cant imagine what a full, non-resonated (or resonated for that matter) 3" would be.

my vote: 2.5"...DO IT!!!!
 

mrwizard

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milehighassassin said:
On a turbo-charged motor there is no such thing as overkill!
LOL
depends on what your goals are. for a sport/race application, sure. but for a daily driver with mild upgrades, 2.5 is perfect. my $0.02.
 

woofie2

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milehighassassin said:
On a turbo-charged motor there is no such thing as overkill!
LOL
Acutally there is, a friend has a 10.5 second GTI (a2 frame with a 16v motor turbo charged, NOS, standalone megasquirt fuel and engine management, all the gofasters)

they got faster going from the 3" pipe to a 2.5" pipe, (all they have is a side dump coming out behind the passenger side wheel, that come through the cabin of the car for space their manderal bender could not turn tight enough to come out anywhere else so they turned into the cabin through the firewall then out through the floor)
they are laying down somewhere around 300 HP on a 2.0 block :cool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxlmT1MZ2sM
 

milehighassassin

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woofie2 said:
Acutally there is, a friend has a 10.5 second GTI (a2 frame with a 16v motor turbo charged, NOS, standalone megasquirt fuel and engine management, all the gofasters)

they got faster going from the 3" pipe to a 2.5" pipe, (all they have is a side dump coming out behind the passenger side wheel, that come through the cabin of the car for space their manderal bender could not turn tight enough to come out anywhere else so they turned into the cabin through the firewall then out through the floor)
they are laying down somewhere around 300 HP on a 2.0 block :cool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxlmT1MZ2sM
Something else has changed. A larger pipe will shift your powerband up a little bit but you will produce more power. I'll take Corky Bell's word for it. ;)
 

rhussjr

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Mike,
I sent you a couple links on the show that we discussed on the phone this evening. Looking forward to meeting up if possible or meet up in June at the Asheville show(?).
Rodney
 

Ian Collins

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Denmark
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If you put a boost gauge in the lambda sensor hole you can measure the back pressure, everything above 0,3-0,4 will cost you power. it's a real good way to find out how good your exhaust is. I've gained many horsepower this way before on gasoline cars.
 

LurkerMike

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rhussjr said:
Mike, Any updates on the downpipe status?
I finally got the new DP plotted... it was probably around $500 in scrapped pipes to get there... add 1* of bend here, subtract .5* there...

Next is the shrinkage calculation... most common stainless mandrel bends will "open up" or "straighten out" a small percentage of the bend angle when heat cycled. This becomes more significant when the bend angle is longer, like 90* and beyond... like the first bend leaving the turbo, where the hottest point is.

The Version 1.0 pipes lost about 3/16" across the face of the turbo flange over time. This makes them harder to remove and reinstall after the initial installation. It also places some stress on the flex if the front hanger bracket is used. But the super long flex sections I used seem to be handling it well. But that is still less than ideal. It may be a significant factor in why the early TT DP's were prone to cracking failures and it may explain why some aftermarket DP's begin to clang and bang as time goes on.

I am developing a multi-faceted strategy to deal with this issue.

First I am working to determine how many extra degrees to add to the new DP first bend to compensate for the "shrinkage" so that when the DP finds its final shape, it is dead-on my intended centerline.

Secondly I am investigating various heating methods to pre-shrink the first bends so that the DP's won't move very much after they are installed.

Thirdly I am developing a two-piece front hanger bracket that bolts together on adjustable slots. Ideally you would install the DP and snug the front hanger down where it fits the pipe and the OEM rubber pads the best. Then after a couple of weeks of driving one would loosen the front hanger bracket and readjust it as needed for the best fit. Then perhaps recheck and adjust as needed at the next oil change.

The pipes will still last a long time if they are installed once and forgotten about. But to make the flex outlive the car with the optional cat, it would be ideal to check and adjust a couple of times. But for sure, removal and reinstallation will be much easier with an adjustable front hanger bracket.

I plan to offer a 304ss 2.25" DP that is a plug and play replacement for the OEM DP for ALH VE's and BEW PD's. It will be modular and will use the small Magnaflow 54105D cat as the cat option. It will be a low cost DP, perhaps the lowest cost. It will use a 2.25" ANSA sourced flex pipe just like Version 1.0 used. It would probably pass any CARB certification test if I had the money to have it tested.

I will also offer a 304ss 2.5"DP version with an 8" long Vibrant Brand Flex section which will use the large Magnaflow 93006D cat as an option intended for use with my complete 304ss 2.5" system. I am looking at offering the Aero Exhaust 2525XL muffler with this system: http://www.aeroexhaust.com/car_muffler_2525xl.html The combination of the cat and that muffler with built in resonator *should* yield a high performance low restriction system that is near OEM silent. This package will be up there in price with most of the other choices that shock you with their cost, but it spares nothing for quality.

I may offer an aluminized steel version of the 2.5" cat-back designed for use with something like the $18 Summit brand chambered aluminzed muffler for like real cheap.

And I may figure out a way to mate the 304ss 2.25" low cost DP to the low cost aluminized cat-back. That *might* allow for a complete system with a cat for less than $500.

I doubt I will have any pipes ready for sale by KROUT's GTG April 4th. Tommy who was doing my TIG welding is unavailable. So I am looking for another TIG welder. And I need to get all the hanger brackets worked out and into production.
 
Last edited:

mrwizard

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LurkerMike said:
I may offer an aluminized steel version of the 2.5" cat-back designed for use with something like the $18 Summit brand chambered aluminzed muffler for like real cheap.
i like the idea of a mandrel bent aluminized 2.5" catback...might give us cheapos a reason not to build our non-mandrel bent catbacks. :D

if i ever get that summit muffler installed, i shoot you a video so you can hear and see it. might be awhile for me though. i'm still waiting on a turndown. :D
 

Growler

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Mike, any chance of getting a price for a Cat that can be slipped into my v1.0 2.25" downpipe? the magnaflow you listed above says its a 2.0" in & out so is smaller than my pipe.

I have been wanting to quiet down the drone I am getting in my exhaust so I figure I should start with a CAT and go from there.
 

rhussjr

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Mike, I was thinking that if you wanted to make a more "universal" type setup for downpipe/cat setup (even though it would take a little more time to swap), the mk3 style cats could be used like the one pictured below. That would allow use of the same "test pipes" and replacement cats to be used so that in the event that someone needed a replacement quickly, it could esily be sourced from almost anywhere. Also the mating flange on the downpipe could have two additional ears added to them to hold the front support (another company offers an Mk5 2.0T FSI downpipe like this). That way the support would be attached more stucturely sound and not welded to the pipe or clamped on. Just a thought....

 

LurkerMike

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Growler said:
Mike, any chance of getting a price for a Cat that can be slipped into my v1.0 2.25" downpipe? the magnaflow you listed above says its a 2.0" in & out so is smaller than my pipe.

I have been wanting to quiet down the drone I am getting in my exhaust so I figure I should start with a CAT and go from there.
The 54105D is a small case 2.25" that should work fine.

The 54104D is the 2".

Your Version 1.0 was designed around the 93005D 2.25" large case which will also work for you, but flows a little better and costs more. My only fear with the 93005D and the 93006D is that they may require more heat to fire fire off and burn clean than a TDI driven only on short trips might muster. As long as some occasional hard driving and/or some moderate distance highway miles are driven to keep it from sooting up, it will be fine.

Now here is what I plan to do... all of these cats are designed to slip over the size of the pipe they are made for. Well I plan to reduce the 54104D from 2.25" ID to 2.25" OD so that the Vibrant brand sleeve clamp can be used to clamp it on the pipe. This makes removal easy to inspect or to try a straight length of "test pipe". Using U-bolt clamps bends the pipes and can make them unservicable, locked together as tight as welding in some cases. The Vibrant sleeve clamps are just awesome! Fully serviceable for years to come!

I plan to do the same thing for the 2.5" DP's, but instead of using the 2.5" 93006D, I will use the 93005D 2.25" and expand it to 2.5" OD. This will NOT cause any restriction as the nipples on the cat are already stepped larger than the amount I am expanding them. And because they are stepped, there is no stress on the welds to the case. Remember that a 2.25" ID nipple will measure around 2.35" OD so I am only expanding the nipples around 0.15" diameter.
 

LurkerMike

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rhussjr said:
Mike, I was thinking that if you wanted to make a more "universal" type setup for downpipe/cat setup (even though it would take a little more time to swap), the mk3 style cats could be used like the one pictured below. That would allow use of the same "test pipes" and replacement cats to be used so that in the event that someone needed a replacement quickly, it could esily be sourced from almost anywhere. Also the mating flange on the downpipe could have two additional ears added to them to hold the front support (another company offers an Mk5 2.0T FSI downpipe like this). That way the support would be attached more stucturely sound and not welded to the pipe or clamped on. Just a thought....

That is exactly where I was going... until I fell in love with the Vibrant sleeve clamps.

Do not confuse a sleeve clamp with a band clamp. A band clamp will unroll and lay flat with the bolts removed. A sleeve clamp remains a tube even when the bolts are removed. A sleeve clamp never needs a gasket and allows for rotational adjustment on install. It also allows for some adjustment to the length of pipe.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1035_1070_1132&osCsid=adb7cdf11a8b472a33d1c7ab13499b55

 

Gearhead51

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Mike,

I know you said "no" to my request of a VNT20 DP, but the one I have is just the stocker with the 15 flange cut off and the 20 welded on. Therefore, it should be the same shape as the OE one, and I can lend it to you for measurement if you'd like. Please?
 

LurkerMike

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Gearhead51 said:
Mike,

I know you said "no" to my request of a VNT20 DP, but the one I have is just the stocker with the 15 flange cut off and the 20 welded on. Therefore, it should be the same shape as the OE one, and I can lend it to you for measurement if you'd like. Please?
Really?

Weird...

Then maybe...

Do you TIG weld or have any fabricators to call on that do? I probably can supply the pipes, flange and flex, but it will be a while before I could tackle it myself.
 
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