DieselgateDaily
Member
I'll try to keep this as brief as I can, but this has been a fiasco. I have a 2002 Jetta 5spd ALH. Has 254k on the clock, stock other than intake and random tune/egr delete. Use as a daily to drive around the state. I knew as some point the turbo was going to give, as it was the factory stocker. But much like the Seinfeld episode with Kramer running the car out of gas on a test drive, I just kept going.
Get off highway about 2 weeks ago, go to pull into my side street, and no boost. Pulled code p1556 I believe. I checked the normal stuff, and found a couple things. A vacuum line off n18 was cut through, the vacuum pump nipple was leaking, and the turbo actuator was shot. It didn't even hold 1psi. After fixing those things, and swapping the actuator (To hell with that "E-clip"), the car still had the same problem. I pulled the turbo inlet pipe, and there was enough play that it was time to pull the turbo. I ordered a vnt17 from maxspeedingrods, and it came in a couple days. Threw that one on, and started the car, same deal. No boost. I started to dive a little deeper now. First, I checked the vacuum on the turbo actuator, and it opens, touches stop @ around 18mg, and holds. Then I put on VCDS to block 11, and switch to basic settings to see it cycle. The N75 is working fine. I check vacuum at the canister, reads 25inches, and wiggle the nipple on pump, and this time holds steady since rtv. I thought I saw a crack on the brake booster hose, so I replaced that. No dice.
My buddy has a shop, and mentioned it was probably a simple boost leak. I decide to rip the front bumper off, and take the entire charging system (from turbo to EGR pipe) off, and bring it down to test, expecting a leak. Nothing. Whole system holds to high heaven. I happen to have another TDI at his shop that has no use for its stock side mount, as mine was full of oil/debris from previous turbo I never cleaned. I decide to take that one, powerwash it out as it was much cleaner. We test the system again, it holds again, and make my way home to obvious results of nothing changed. I get on VCDS to see what the map sensor is doing. In group 11 it seems that the sensor was bad. It would specify around 2000 or so, and actual range was from 999-1100 or so. (1psi near redline). I chalked this up to the map sensor being bad. However before I did, I shortened the actuator rod so it would boost more/sooner (Went on the stop around 7mg) and took it around the block just to see if drivability improved. It did marginally. I thought that was because it was making boost, and the sensor wasn't reading it. Made sense in my head. I set the actuator back to opening around 3 and full tilt on the stop around 16 or so, waited for my new sensor I got today, and popped it in. Nada. The same exact readings from this sensor as well. Only makes around 1psi near redline, and the car is basically undrivable. Just to be sure it wasn't any one sensor. I unplugged the MAP, and took around block, no change. I plug it back in and unplugged the MAF, ran a little better, but no boost still. (The MAF specs are way out of line, but I don't think that is the sole issue). I also took the wire loom back from the map sensor from connector to basically firewall to inspect wiring, it looked like the day it rolled off assembly line.
Welp, sorry for the diatribe, I really tried to condense it, but also walk through progression. Is it possible I got a dud turbo from the company? Is there anyway to further diagnose?
Oh, and the intake was cleaned/burned out, and I installed EGR delete right after, so there isn't any clogging there.
Get off highway about 2 weeks ago, go to pull into my side street, and no boost. Pulled code p1556 I believe. I checked the normal stuff, and found a couple things. A vacuum line off n18 was cut through, the vacuum pump nipple was leaking, and the turbo actuator was shot. It didn't even hold 1psi. After fixing those things, and swapping the actuator (To hell with that "E-clip"), the car still had the same problem. I pulled the turbo inlet pipe, and there was enough play that it was time to pull the turbo. I ordered a vnt17 from maxspeedingrods, and it came in a couple days. Threw that one on, and started the car, same deal. No boost. I started to dive a little deeper now. First, I checked the vacuum on the turbo actuator, and it opens, touches stop @ around 18mg, and holds. Then I put on VCDS to block 11, and switch to basic settings to see it cycle. The N75 is working fine. I check vacuum at the canister, reads 25inches, and wiggle the nipple on pump, and this time holds steady since rtv. I thought I saw a crack on the brake booster hose, so I replaced that. No dice.
My buddy has a shop, and mentioned it was probably a simple boost leak. I decide to rip the front bumper off, and take the entire charging system (from turbo to EGR pipe) off, and bring it down to test, expecting a leak. Nothing. Whole system holds to high heaven. I happen to have another TDI at his shop that has no use for its stock side mount, as mine was full of oil/debris from previous turbo I never cleaned. I decide to take that one, powerwash it out as it was much cleaner. We test the system again, it holds again, and make my way home to obvious results of nothing changed. I get on VCDS to see what the map sensor is doing. In group 11 it seems that the sensor was bad. It would specify around 2000 or so, and actual range was from 999-1100 or so. (1psi near redline). I chalked this up to the map sensor being bad. However before I did, I shortened the actuator rod so it would boost more/sooner (Went on the stop around 7mg) and took it around the block just to see if drivability improved. It did marginally. I thought that was because it was making boost, and the sensor wasn't reading it. Made sense in my head. I set the actuator back to opening around 3 and full tilt on the stop around 16 or so, waited for my new sensor I got today, and popped it in. Nada. The same exact readings from this sensor as well. Only makes around 1psi near redline, and the car is basically undrivable. Just to be sure it wasn't any one sensor. I unplugged the MAP, and took around block, no change. I plug it back in and unplugged the MAF, ran a little better, but no boost still. (The MAF specs are way out of line, but I don't think that is the sole issue). I also took the wire loom back from the map sensor from connector to basically firewall to inspect wiring, it looked like the day it rolled off assembly line.
Welp, sorry for the diatribe, I really tried to condense it, but also walk through progression. Is it possible I got a dud turbo from the company? Is there anyway to further diagnose?
Oh, and the intake was cleaned/burned out, and I installed EGR delete right after, so there isn't any clogging there.
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