Looking for help with possible front bearing or CV joint noise

bondtimbond

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Houston Texas
TDI
06 Jetta package 2 - now sold
My symptoms on my 06 TDI DSG and 118,000 miles on it do not clearly differentiate between the bearing or the CV joints. For this I would like some input. I have no apparent vibration and no clicking on turning that might be typical of CV joint problems. Tires are Bridgestone Serenity Plus and fairly new with normal wear patterns. I hear a roar/growl noise that become noticeable around 38-40 mph and then tapers off above about 46 mph, but can still be heard to a lesser degree at full highway speed. This noise may have been building for some time, and now it is more noticeable. At first I thought it might be some strange tire noise, but I see no abnormal wear patterns in the tires and the tires are supposed to be fairly quite according to the Tire Rack, etc. Knowing I have that split in the drivers outer boot I know noise from that joint is a possibility, but I would really like to be able to confirm the source of the noise before I starting spending big dollars are new parts. New bearings appear to be at least $125 each by FAG or similar, and axles from Raxle are $249 each plus $60 shipping. So replacing axles and bearings would be allot of dollars. But I would rather take the car apart just once if possible.

On inspection the driver's side outer CV boot has a split in it and probably has been that way for some time, but doesn't open up at normal suspension heights and I see no grease being flung out of the split. I know it needs addressing, but just haven't gotten around to it yet.

I called Raxles for some input, and their first comment was that at 118,000 miles my inner CV joints are probably worn out. They said that the inner joints on our cars wear out faster than the outer and usually only last about 85 or 90K. I haven't read in the forums much about inner CV joints failing often at less than 100K so does that input from Raxles seem real to folks?

The guy at Raxles did say however that my symptoms didn't necessarily point directly to the axles however, and suggested I jack up the car and check for free play etc. I did that and have no apparent free play in the bearings - seemed very tight. He also asked if my noise changes with turning left or right while driving and it does not. The noise seems the same regardless of steering input.

Also, what is the normal good feel of slop in an axle? On the driver's side with the wheel off the ground, I can rotate the tire back a forth a good bit and I hear what is probably slop inside the transmission which is in park, but it is more on the driver's side than passengers side. Is there a way to easily check for play in CV joints on the car, and how much play is acceptable?

Lastly, how difficult is replacing the CV joints/boots on my own axle rather than replacing the whole axle unit with a new or rebuilt one? Buying two new decent CV joints per axle seems quite a bit cheaper than the $249 each plus shipping from Raxles.
 
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farfrumsanity

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Location
Wintersville,Ohio
TDI
Jetta-2005 Reflex Silver A-5
I had the bearing go, made a noise like winter tires, growling, hard to find the correct side that was bad since there is an inner and outer race, turning right loads the left outer and right inner. On my used Beetle, the previous owner stripped the caliper mounting bolts, got an upright from the junkyard, noticed the noise, figured it was the one from the junkyard, it wasn't, ended up replacing both sides to correct. The Beetle is like the Jetta 4, the bearing presses on the hub, the Jetta 5 bearing and spindle bolts in. Advance has rebuilt axles less than $249.
 
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MyAvocation

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Location
Hoffman Estates, IL
TDI
2017 Passat SEL TSI
Not meant to disparage Raxles, but the advice is not consistent with mkv Jetta. Inner CV joint failure is not common. In all fairness though, inner failures have same symptoms as a wheel bearing. Also, bearing diagnosis by checking for play is not valid (unlike mkiv).

There's only two ways to diagnose mkv bearings: The guaranteed method requires removing brakes and axle, where simple free-spin by hand will reveal non-smooth rotation -- however not my favorite method unless a spare hub on-hand. The easier method is not guaranteed in some cases, as I'll explain towards the end. My preferred method is to put car on four jack stands, start motor, put in gear and place a stethoscope or long screwdriver in one of the hub mounting bolts to listen for growl or grind noises as wheel rotates. For best results, have someone accelerate to ~30 MPH and compare to opposite wheel. ** please note the obvious personal safety issues with this method **. The risk of this method is not hearing on jack stands what is heard on the road. This is due to bearings not loaded. If no diagnosis, then wait until noise worsens. I've replaced enough mkv bearings to confirm it's OK to continue driving on them. They wear much differently than mkiv; what you hear and eventually feel is scoring on one or both races.

Regarding OP's symptom of no noise at highway speed, if worsens, but still no noise at higher speeds, I suspect it's not a wheel bearing.
 

Barnitz

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Location
Chillicothe/Cincinnati, Ohio
TDI
2006 Jetta
I just chased a similar problem.. originally thought it was a wheel bearing, kept driving and it got worse. Attempted to diagnose as you world a normal wheel bearing by checking for play and 'swerving' while driving to see if the noise changes. All these tests pointed to the bearing being fine.

Asked around and since I had a lot of vibration in the foot-well it was decided that an inner cv joint was failing.. replaced both axles with raxles.. and the problem persisted!
Decided to give the wheel bearing a go and sure enough my passenger side bearing had failed.

I drove for probably 3,000 miles after I first heard the noise. They fail slow.

for reference car has ~190k miles on it, with power mods and spirited driving for the last ~50k miles. The cv joints in my axles felt great and showed no signs of failure.
 

farfrumsanity

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Location
Wintersville,Ohio
TDI
Jetta-2005 Reflex Silver A-5
For reference, the manual says to tighten the axle bolt to proper torque of 148 ft. lbs. with the wheel off the ground to prevent damage to the new bearing.
 

bondtimbond

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Houston Texas
TDI
06 Jetta package 2 - now sold
Thanks folks for your input on my bearing/CV joint noise dilemma. I think I will consider the four jack stand test with the wheels turning, and use my stethoscope to see what I can hear. From inputs so far it seems I have time to investigate this and order what might hopefully be the right parts and not have to rush out and shotgun the fix with unnecessary parts.

Raxles seemed very adamant on the phone that inner CV joints wear out quickest on our cars, and told me I've gotten longer than normal life out of mine at 118K. That just doesn't seem right to me. I was actually thinking of buying and installing new boot kits thinking that those joints if well lubricated should last many more miles. Almost $600 with shipping for two rebuilt axles seems like allot to me.

So can't I just buy new joint and install them on my own axles myself? Is that hard to do?
 

farfrumsanity

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Location
Wintersville,Ohio
TDI
Jetta-2005 Reflex Silver A-5
Here in Ohio the reman axles are $80 a side from Advance, they will ship them to you or pick them up in store, the price of a cv joint isn't much less and unless you have the boot clamp tool to install the clamps it could cost more
 

rix337

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2005
Location
Powder Springs, Ga
TDI
09 Jetta TDI
Here are some ideas before you spend a lot of money.

1. Move your front wheel/tire from the front to the rear. Is the sound gone? Did the sound move to the rear? If so, you found the issue, tire noise. If not then go to number 2.

2. You don't know how long that split in the cv boot has been there. It may not be slinging grease because it did it a long time ago. What is in there could also be contaminated. Replacing that outer boot should be done no matter what else you do.
 

bondtimbond

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Houston Texas
TDI
06 Jetta package 2 - now sold
Here in Ohio the reman axles are $80 a side from Advance, they will ship them to you or pick them up in store, the price of a cv joint isn't much less and unless you have the boot clamp tool to install the clamps it could cost more
Oh I can get $80 axles here too, but the word in this forum and others that we should avoid the cheap Chinese parts like the plague and reman axles at that price aren't possible with true German parts. Apparently folks have many horror stories of their experiences with cheap axles and CV joints...
 

bondtimbond

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Houston Texas
TDI
06 Jetta package 2 - now sold
Here is an update from the OP on this thread:

So I tried out the technique mentioned to jack up the front and carefully put the car in drive and listen for sounds from the hubs etc with a stethoscope. Short answer is I could hear no noises of concern coming from either side. Bearings and joints sounded quiet from what I could tell.

This prompted me to try another test, which was to experiment with my spare tire one wheel at a time to see if that had any effect. Sure enough, even though none of my tires visually exhibit ANY problems and any abnormal wear and have lots of tread, the left front tire apparently is the cause of my noise! When the spare is on the left front, the noise vanishes. I also tried rotating the suspect tire to the right front where it would rotate opposite, and the noise is quite a bit less and sounds a bit different, but still present.

Next, I am going to try to find out what's up with that tire....
 
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