Liqui moly ceratec?

[Q5Freak]

Hello everyone, after performing a search i didnt find any experiences regarding ceratec or motor protect oil additives. I´m thinking of ordering one of these to mix with liqui moly 4200 5w-30. Any real world experiences?

The intended use is preventing wear after a 30.000 Km breaking in period. Should i use it?

thanks in advance

 

[Madfable]

I haven't tried it. But I have tried Amtech auto restore, it's not ceramic, but the principle is the same. It did make a difference on my old MX-5 and my fiances Mitsu mirage. As for my jetta, haven't tried it.

I'm been considering doing it. I've seem enough studies and pictures about this ceramic additive to actually believe it just may work. Let me know if you take the plunge, I may do so as well.

 

[Q5Freak]

Thank you for your answer. I ordered it. Gonna use it soon along with liqui moly 4200 5w30 oil. I will do an oil analisys of the oil inside my engine right now (mobil 1) and then an oil analysis of the liqui moly oil + ceratec and compare the results. It will take a few months but there will be an answer

 

[Madfable]

Nice! I will be ordering mine soon as well. =)

 

[silverbox]

I tried to order some 2years ago and it was not available in Canada, so I called the distributor in the USA, he told me he would contact me when it was available.
I'm still waiting to hear from him.

 

[jgeorge]

I think its available at precision tuning in toronto-

 

[kevinbud]

Is it safe with dpf

 

[Q5Freak]

Yes kevin. Fully compatible with everything, so they say. Theres a pdf at: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/3721%20Cera%20Tec_EN.pdf/$file/3721%20Cera%20Tec_EN.pdf

 

[kevinbud]

Thank You. I also wondered if Ceretec might work better with an oil that uses little or no Boron in additive package as opposed to Mobil 1 ESP that uses more Boron and less Calciium.

 

[Q5Freak]

Nice nice. After putting it in report back. I´ll do the same. There aren´t many testemonials on the web, at least publicity free ones.

 

[Q5Freak]

Hello mates. I poured ceratec into the new oil. Felt nothing, perhaps because its a common rail with only 30.000 km on it, always has been very smooth. I know im not helping anyone taking the plunge, sorry. I believe in it though

 

[70MPG-goal]

I have an old '97 TDI with 330,000 km and a real rough idle when cold. (btw 330,000km=205,000miles) I'm doing my 1st oil change on this new purchase and plan on using Mobil 1 0w-40 with some liqui moly mos2. I'll post the results after. Then I wish to try and compare it to CeraTec and post that too. I'm also using Liqui Moly oil flush to get all the sluge & soot out befor pouring the clean stuff in.

 

[TSP-MIAMI-TORONTO]

Well , took the plunge and put in the CERATEC fluid and TOP TEC 4100 5w40 yesterday.


Will try and gauge any reults if any on engine performance and fuel economy till end of summer.


T

 

[TooSlick]

Ash free boron additives (in the chemical form of borate esters), have been in use for well over a decade. Many VW and API spec oils including Mobil 1/TDT, ESP and 0w-40, Amsoil DEO & Euro 5w-30/5w-40 and Shell Rotella T6, 5w-40, use boron as a supplemental anti wear additive to ZDDP. You also find a number of VW 507.00 oils using boron, since its free of ash and sulfur.

TS

 

[70MPG-goal]

Ash free boron additives (in the chemical form of borate esters), have been in use for well over a decade. Many VW and API spec oils including Mobil 1/TDT, ESP and 0w-40, Amsoil DEO & Euro 5w-30/5w-40 and Shell Rotella T6, 5w-40, use boron as a supplemental anti wear additive to ZDDP. You also find a number of VW 507.00 oils using boron, since its free of ash and sulfur.

TS

Yes that is true, but this product isn't named BoronTec. Even if it contains Boron, It's the nano Ceramic of 3 microns in size that gives it that CeraTec name. It's most likely trying to meet the benefits of ceramic coating of moving engine internals.

 

[70MPG-goal]

Seems that in Germany (from another forum) the eco-friendly green tree-huggers are using LM CeraTec to max out the MPGs.

 

[vwaudi34]

Hello everyone, after performing a search i didnt find any experiences regarding ceratec or motor protect oil additives. I´m thinking of ordering one of these to mix with liqui moly 4200 5w-30. Any real world experiences?

The intended use is preventing wear after a 30.000 Km breaking in period. Should i use it?

thanks in advance

I found one article from Malaysia http://www.syncoptima.com/blog/2012/06/27/liqui-moly-ceratec-long-term-review-this-sht-really-works/

It seems really excellent!!!

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

This is going in my new-to-me B4 Passat with 250K on it. I'm doing it mostly to prolong engine life.

 

[Bob_Fout]

This is going in my new-to-me B4 Passat with 250K on it. I'm doing it mostly to prolong engine life.

Hoping it'll last 1.5 million miles instead of 1.125 million miles with quality API or Euro oils?

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Fact is most TDIs are showing a lot of wear before 400K. The 1Z often ovals bores at 300K. My B4 has an AHU with the additional ring so I'm hoping I don't see that, but extending engine life isn't a completely silly exercise. I plan to use it in my wagon, too, but not until I have 20K on the engine rebuild (which it needed at 265K, btw, although its circumstances are a bit special).

 

[TooSlick]

Adding supplemental additives to a carefully balanced, fully formulated engine oil is never advisable. The simplest, most effective way to prolong the life of a high mileage engine is simply to use a thicker oil - particularly in mild to hot weather. This can be done in two ways:

1) Staying within the same SAE grade, but using an oil with a greater HT/HS viscosity. For example, going from a 0w-40/5w-40 oil to a 10w-40/15w-40. You can generally find an oil that's about 10% thicker with this method.

2) Going up a full SAE grade, for example switching from a 0w-40/5w-40 to a 15w-50/20w-50.

In an engine with significant ring & cylinder wear, the more viscous oil will also improve the ring seal (aiding compression and reducing "blow-by") and it will reduce oil consumption. It will also help restore oil pressure to its optimum range.

TS

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I don't know a lot about this, but it seems odd to me that if supplemental additives are "never advisable" a major refiner and distributor of engine and transmission oil (Liqui Moly) would recommend Ceratec with its oils, but they do. And I have customers that swear by their MoS2 product, saying it reduces oil consumption in their TDIs.

It is pretty common knowledge that a higher viscosity oil is not a universal positive in many engines. One thing I learned when investigating what oil to use in my Miata for track days was warnings that a 15w50, for example, may cause more damage than it prevents because of its inability to circulate through the small oil passages in a cold engine in that car. Just one example.

 

[Bob_Fout]

Fact is most TDIs are showing a lot of wear before 400K. The 1Z often ovals bores at 300K. My B4 has an AHU with the additional ring so I'm hoping I don't see that, but extending engine life isn't a completely silly exercise. I plan to use it in my wagon, too, but not until I have 20K on the engine rebuild (which it needed at 265K, btw, although its circumstances are a bit special).

Is this unique to the 1Z? I thought general consensus seemed to be very little wear at 400K miles for what I follow on here (ALHs).

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Not the consensus I see. Little bottom-end wear, but valve train wear (guides and seals) at as little as 200K. The piston ovaling is unique to the 1Z because of the pistons having one less ring.

Truth is there are very few ALHs out there with enough miles on them to create a pattern. But it seems from what I read here and from customers rebuilds are happening at 300K+ miles. Some are going much, much further but I think it's fair to say results vary.

 

[TooSlick]

Please explain how an additive can compensate for worn metal or ovalized cylinders? As for adding a ceramic (dry film) coating, please explain how you get it to stick to a highly contaminated (oiled), surface?

Thanks,

TS

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I don't expect it to compensate for wear, but to help minimize additional wear. And perhaps you can explain how it sticks. Liqui-Moly says it does. As I posted earlier, I don't know a lot about this.

 

[TooSlick]

Well LM is certainly a reputable company. I'll be interested to see if you can measure any effect, ie reduced engine wear, oil consumption, etc.

The use of MoS2 in engine oils is a whole other can of worms....

TS

 

[TDIMeister]

The piston ovaling is unique to the 1Z because of the pistons having one less ring.

What less ring? All TDI pistons of all generations have 2 compression rings and 1 oil-control ring. Do you mean a cast-in expansion ring?

 

[James & Son]

Here is the thing with any moly( solid and also the chemical liquid moly***). For it to work in engine oil as a boundary layer additive you need lots of it to do any good. When you add it to a gear box or if it is in grease it is used at high doesage levels, at least 40 to 50,000 parts per million. To put this in perpective you need to add a table spoon to an oil change. This is if you use the sub micron stuff at .6 micron size. The price escalates 4x when you start using the nano stuff which is the best as you do not need to use as much to get the same results( depending on what you expect it to do). It will help the PD cam bearings over time in small amounts for instance. My biggest concern is the PD follower.

PD only: If you do not maintain the proper leak down rate of the follower ( proper normal viscosity in valving) the follower will be hammered during the injection event; even though the cam is on the closed dwell side. This is my theory only and I plan on proving it shortly.

Edit: I see this is about HB hexagonal boron( still a nano solid lubricant in a carrier) , my mistake, but they are all the same, function wise except they are saying it is compatible with catalytic converters. The unfortunate part is the .15 to .7 friction coefficient. To abrasive for my liking when compared to moly at .04 and Tungsten disulphide at .03. but they are a metal and non compatible with the catalyst. Since i am only concerned about the PD engine and I believe the followers need to have the proper leak down rate to avoid contact from the downward force of the injection event adding a nano solid just adds to this complication of getting it right.

 

[noxneon]

And to the op, I believe its lubro-moly, not liqui-moly. I only say this because I use lubro-moly in both my diesels. (15w40 in our idi f250, and 5w40 in my Jetta)