life expectancy of front brake pads?

[Tinkertoy]

you guys will not believe this.

my brakes started to squeak this past week, so i figure that, at 110k miles it was time for a replacement.

this did not make me happy as i am taking the buy back option. i mean, who wants to do a brake job 2 months before you get rid of a car?

well, much to my surprise, when i checked the pads i found i STILL had about 1/4" of pad material left! the replacement pads are about 1/2" thick. i have no doubt that i could have gone at least to 160k on these.

too cool!

has anyone else gooten this kind of service from their pads?

 

[Rico567]

We haven't had our VW long enough (48K) to judge that car, but our second car, an '04 SAAB 9-5 Sportwagon, had rear pads put on a year ago at about 175K, and that is maybe the second set. We're on our second set of fronts, and when they did the rears, they said we still had 80% on the front (we're near 190K now).
My view is, it's all about how the car is driven. Watch how a lot of people drive: they accelerate rapidly from a stop, and come into the next light or stop sign comparatively quickly, then pile on the brakes hard, stopping quickly. This is not a recipe for longevity in brake components. Modest acceleration, and on the other end getting off the gas early and using engine braking to slow the car down as much as possible, not only saves brakes but fuel.

 

[Trade Wind]

At 89k miles I had an alignment done and I had 6 mm (almost 1/4") left on the original front pads. It matters how much stop and go driving you do, not just miles.

 

[jjblbi]

I upgraded my brakes around 91k miles and still had 1/2 the pads left up front and 1/3 at the rear. I drive a lot of highway miles and tend to stay off the brakes.

 

[jetlagmech]

I am at 140,000 miles and still have original front pads and think there is still good life in them. My rears I changed once at about 80-90,000 miles. Got about another month before I put on my winters shoes and give them a good check.

 

[VeeDubTDI]

We're at 107,000 miles with plenty of meat left on the pads. I don't use the brakes very much, though.

 

[HBRD_KLR]

I'm at 115000 - still good to go. And that's traveling thru the WV/V/TN/KY numerous times for the last 3 years.

 

[Lincoln]

Not exactly an answer to your question, OP, but you may want to check the rears to see if that is where the squeak is coming from. Most here reports rears wearing faster than fronts.

 

[oilhammer]

1/4 million miles or more is pretty typical. Shame you'd give up that car, but whatever.

 

[laminated]

I took the pads off my 2013, the week I bought it new and put Akebona ceramics,, no brake dust now...

 

[tdiatlast]

My 2014 Toyota Avalon Hybrid Limited has virtually no brake dust...HAHAHA! Regenerative braking takes the load off, of course.

I agree with oilhammer's sentiment: "Shame you'd give up that car, but whatever." I've parked my 2014 in the garage, awaiting the buyback. Just can't pass up the $27.5k VAG is offering me.

 

[Ol'Rattler]

We're at 107,000 miles with plenty of meat left on the pads. I don't use the brakes very much, though.

Driving style has a lot to do with brake wear as well.

173K miles on the fronts with 3/8 to 1/4 inch left. The rears were just down to metal at 100K miles. The rears certainly do wear quicker than the front..............

 

[Tinkertoy]

1/4 million miles or more is pretty typical. Shame you'd give up that car, but whatever.

financially, it makes sense. i am coming up on the following repairs:

timing belt within the year. along with the water pump
dpf (unknown)
tires.
$1000 deductable to repair the hit and run side swipe.

not including the dpf, brakes, or suspension items, i have about 3 grand in maintenance to deal with.
i also think i have a drive axle that need a new cv joint.
my clutch also clicks really loudly if i happen to slip it a bit. i have no worry about it being worn.
my a/c is due for the rcv valve replacement. add another 250 bucks for this.


so, i can keep my car, fix it, and pocket a little bit of cash......and have a 2yr old car with 110k, questionable value, and an uncertain "fix"

or

i can get a new loaded sel gasser with a $6500 + whatever they offer in retention/loyalty incentives.

other factors:
my work situation has changed in that i travel about 12k instead of 65k per year

because of the shorter distance, my mileage dropped from 50 to 41 mpg average.

i won't have any major repairs for 8 years or so, which would be really nice. also a first for me.

 

[oilhammer]

My 2014 Toyota Avalon Hybrid Limited has virtually no brake dust...HAHAHA! Regenerative braking takes the load off, of course.

I agree with oilhammer's sentiment: "Shame you'd give up that car, but whatever." I've parked my 2014 in the garage, awaiting the buyback. Just can't pass up the $27.5k VAG is offering me.

I could. I could walk right past it.

 

[oilhammer]

financially, it makes sense. i am coming up on the following repairs:
timing belt within the year. along with the water pump
dpf (unknown)
tires.
$1000 deductable to repair the hit and run side swipe.
not including the dpf, brakes, or suspension items, i have about 3 grand in maintenance to deal with.
i also think i have a drive axle that need a new cv joint.
my clutch also clicks really loudly if i happen to slip it a bit. i have no worry about it being worn.
my a/c is due for the rcv valve replacement. add another 250 bucks for this.
so, i can keep my car, fix it, and pocket a little bit of cash......and have a 2yr old car with 110k, questionable value, and an uncertain "fix"
or
i can get a new loaded sel gasser with a $6500 + whatever they offer in retention/loyalty incentives.
other factors:
my work situation has changed in that i travel about 12k instead of 65k per year
because of the shorter distance, my mileage dropped from 50 to 41 mpg average.
i won't have any major repairs for 8 years or so, which would be really nice. also a first for me.

PM is not the same as repairs. Common mistake, people often do that. It is an expense, yes, but not a "repair". All cars need PM. A new car becomes a used car, and the clock starts ticking, the second you drive it off the dealer's lot.

If there was a car that was the same or close to the same as the TDI, that is one thing. But there isn't. And to assume a new gasoline fueled Volkswagen will be devoid of any outlay of cash for 8 years is not necessarily wise. I have a friend that thought that when his in-perfect-working-order and paid for Civic needed a clutch. He went and bought a new Accord instead, and its engine just blew its guts apart without warning and out of warranty (chain drive exploded). His Civic would probably still be on the road...actually it almost certainly IS on the road somewhere, with of course a new clutch, in the hands of its happy new owner.

 

[r11]

The rotors will likely warp long before the brake pads completely wear out. I did mines @ 90K, due to vibrations when braking.

Autozone has excellent deal on Wearever rotors/pads.

A lot depends on your style of driving. Binary drivers with lead foot are worst in that respect. As are people that live in hilly areas and dont know how to engine brake.

 

[Ol'Rattler]

My rears were just down to metal @ 100K miles and vibration/warping was never an issue in my case anyway.

Replaced with OEM quality disks and pads and no vibration/warping at 74K miles on the new set.

 

[Pitchar]

Engine brake our diesels? How well does that work?

My rotors warped at 50k and so I just replaced everything

 

[mtbsteve]

Around 70k for front pads and rotors, rotors were the main issue and were actually bad much sooner, noticed lots of warp related vibrations 50k or sooner. Never touched the rears, they are still good up to 85k but probably in need of attention soon.

Mine is now parked too.

Oilhammer, PM, repairs, blah. In the end, these cars cost a lot to keep on the road and although I could of had less mpgs, would have been financially much better off with a regular gas 4 banger. Would have been just as "quick" but without as many recalls and problems. The only redeeming part of this Passat TDI ownership is the buyback and the money they are giving to cover repairs done on poorly engineered components.

I know you do your own maintenance and enjoy but not everyone has the time for it and honestly, nothing in this century should require it, especially on a mass produced family car. Think of all the time sucked away working on a commuter car, hours that could have been spent on a much more enjoyable vehicle or other rewarding things in life. No need to apologize for VW, they screwed themselves. And, to your credit, I believe you are one of the first people I read when researching TDIs years ago and saying they are not for everyone and get ready for lots of maintenance, etc. For all your advice and insight, thanks (just don't agree about TDIs being the holy grail of drivetrains). I still enjoyed the car for what it was but happy now that my TDI phase is over, too many other drivetrain types to try and experience and I no longer feel like I am driving a fragile car, a feeling that the many people I know who drive TDIs share.

 

[bobthefarmer]

178K with a quarter inch left on my 2006 Jetta. Never changed.