Leaky injection pump

[Nathan_og]

Hello, I have a 2002 jetta alh 5sp, the injection pump seems to be leaking from the back bottom where that square piece with fuel lines connects to the pump.

Is this easy to seal or does the pump have to be removed?

Can I keep driving or will it harm anything?

Its a small drip or seepage nothing to crazy.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Hello, I have a 2002 jetta alh 5sp, the injection pump seems to be leaking from the back bottom where that square piece with fuel lines connects to the pump.

Is this easy to seal or does the pump have to be removed?

Can I keep driving or will it harm anything?

Its a small drip or seepage nothing to crazy.

I would reseal it as soon as possible, as having it leak will cause alternator failure.
It's a lot easier to reseal the pump head with the pump removed.

How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

This is the one that we have been waiting for. It shows, in detail, how to replace the three most-likely-to-be-leaking seals on an ALH injection pump: the top cover, quantity adjuster & head seal. It is also applicable to the pumps on the A3/B4 cars. It is long, but some will appreciate this...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[Nathan_og]

I would reseal it as soon as possible, as having it leak will cause alternator failure.
It's a lot easier to reseal the pump head with the pump removed.

How to video: On car VE injection pump seal replacement video

This is the one that we have been waiting for. It shows, in detail, how to replace the three most-likely-to-be-leaking seals on an ALH injection pump: the top cover, quantity adjuster & head seal. It is also applicable to the pumps on the A3/B4 cars. It is long, but some will appreciate this...

forums.tdiclub.com

It's not leaking on the alternator just down the block away from rubber hoses as well, i thought it was coming from the top seal at first but it seems to be coming from the bottom back where the fuel lines connect but its leaking from where that part connects to the pump.

 

[Mozambiquer]

It's not leaking on the alternator just down the block away from rubber hoses as well, i thought it was coming from the top seal at first but it seems to be coming from the bottom back where the fuel lines connect but its leaking from where that part connects to the pump.

It often runs down from the top and drips off the timing advance cover on the back of the pump. Either way, it does end up on the alternator, often, and will cause a failure. I'd fix it ASAP.

 

[BobnOH]

What Moz says. I wouldn't want any fluid leaks under my hood.

 

[Nathan_og]

Definitely, that the top seal was a little leaky after I wiped it and started so maybe it is dripping down there. I ordered the full bosch seal kit.

Any advice or tips for when im changing the seal? Will I need to bleed the pump or something? And also Do I have to adjust the fueling after using vcds or can I just mark and lign it up as before?

 

[Mozambiquer]

Definitely, that the top seal was a little leaky after I wiped it and started so maybe it is dripping down there. I ordered the full bosch seal kit.

Any advice or tips for when im changing the seal? Will I need to bleed the pump or something? And also Do I have to adjust the fueling after using vcds or can I just mark and lign it up as before?

You'll have to adjust the IQ after replacing the seals.. Mark it to get it close, but a little is a lot on those.

 

[PakProtector]

Moz speaks the truth...a little is a lot on the hammer/IQ adjustment. Diesel Geek sells Viton o-rings for the phmp head and those are easy whilst on the car( they have instructions too ). For the two top seals, Bosch is quite good.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[burn_your_money]

I used to work in a fuel shop and I would never attempt the head o-ring in the car. Also, since it’s an Ontario car, it’s going to need a proper cleaning when you get the head out. No way you can just slip a new o-ring on like those southern cars.

 

[Mongler98]

I used to work in a fuel shop and I would never attempt the head o-ring in the car. Also, since it’s an Ontario car, it’s going to need a proper cleaning when you get the head out. No way you can just slip a new o-ring on like those southern cars.

i guess at a shop you would never do that anyways.
ive cleaned a few head ring areas. its rather easy if you use some string and toothpaste, takes a while but works very well.
soaking the area in some junk remover and a nice engine wash before hand sure makes all those jobs better.
the McDonalds cup trick and a hair dryer always did the trick in the colder times. Never saw the wire trick but that is defiantly how i would do it if i did it again!

 

[STDOUBT]

@nathan-og,
Also, while you're in there make sure and thoroughly clean any spilled fuel off any plastics.
Especially the insulator (which carries two wires) going into the N108. If you leave that insulator
fouled, it will eventually come open, and your car will stop going over 2K RPM, and run like crap
until you replace the N108 (if you can find one). Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

Diesel fuel destroys any kind of rubber it drips on, and as mentioned above you certainly don't want D2 dripping in/on the alternator. When it comes to aligning the top covers, be diligent and make a lot of alignment marks on all of the surfaces that move when the bolts are loosened... front/back, left/right, upper/lower, etc. There are few things more disappointing than snugging up all the bolts and not be able to start the engine.

 

[Nathan_og]

@nathan-og,
Also, while you're in there make sure and thoroughly clean any spilled fuel off any plastics.
Especially the insulator (which carries two wires) going into the N108. If you leave that insulator
fouled, it will eventually come open, and your car will stop going over 2K RPM, and run like crap
until you replace the N108 (if you can find one). Don't ask me how I know.

Thank you, its actually dripping on that insulator right now so ill definitely fix it right away, I just have to double check and clean everything to make sure it is leaking from the top seal because all the leak looks to be coming from right above that connector you highlighted right underneath that square piece that's connected to the pump.

 

[Nathan_og]

Mine is leaking like this pump posted in another thread

ALH pump leaking, fix of replace?

Installed turbo last night, started the car and saw this, looks like it only leaks on start up because it was dry before I cranked it over. I was smelling it before but could not see because of the engine cover. I know there is a reseal kit for those pumps but I'm not sure what it actually...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[Nathan_og]

Its coming from the same area maybe a little more underneath that end of the pump, do you still think this is coming from the top seals?

When I wiped the top seal and started the car I did notice it start to get moist again but didn't see it dripping anywhere except for underneath and around the same area as that posters pump.

 

[burn_your_money]

Its coming from the same area maybe a little more underneath that end of the pump, do you still think this is coming from the top seals?

When I wiped the top seal and started the car I did notice it start to get moist again but didn't see it dripping anywhere except for underneath and around the same area as that posters pump.

The top seals are fairly easy to do on the car. Start with them and see if it stops the leak.

i guess at a shop you would never do that anyways.
ive cleaned a few head ring areas. its rather easy if you use some string and toothpaste, takes a while but works very well.
soaking the area in some junk remover and a nice engine wash before hand sure makes all those jobs better.
the McDonalds cup trick and a hair dryer always did the trick in the colder times. Never saw the wire trick but that is defiantly how i would do it if i did it again!

It's true that at the shop we would never do that since it's in for a full rebuild, but I also rebuild/reseal the pumps on the side and I wouldn't do it.

It's almost a guarantee that the aluminum housing will be corroded. It is impossible to clean this area without completely removing the head and it will most likely cut the new seal if it's not cleaned. The climate that the pump has lived in makes all the difference. An Ontario pump will have a near 100% long term failure rate I'd guess.

 

[Nathan_og]

sorry whats the mcdonalds cup trick?

 

[Windex]

As above, there will be corrosion in the pump body chamfer area. Ive done a number of these head seals, and found only one where the corrosion was not present (in ontario cars).

Take the pump off, mark the upper housings with a scribe, put the pump vertically in a holding fixture or vice, and pull the pump head up vertically out of the pump body. Carefully clean off the corrosion without letting any fall into the pump, then replace the seal and reinstall paying attention to proper belt timing both physically and with VCDS. Any other way is asking for the corrosion to cut the new seal and leak worse than before.

 

[Mongler98]

It's true that at the shop we would never do that since it's in for a full rebuild, but I also rebuild/reseal the pumps on the side and I wouldn't do it.
It's almost a guarantee that the aluminum housing will be corroded. It is impossible to clean this area without completely removing the head and it will most likely cut the new seal if it's not cleaned. The climate that the pump has lived in makes all the difference. An Ontario pump will have a near 100% long term failure rate I'd guess.

agreed but for the DIY guy and for most who try this it works on the car. Now that there is a wire trick it sure makes a big difference.

sorry whats the mcdonalds cup trick?

put a plastic cup (whatever fits now days, McDonalds Large used to work last i checked) over the head. its tapered and makes stretching the oring easy as 1.2.3. Just cut the rounded rim off

 

[PakProtector]

Good thing I did my MI pump before reading this. Where I am, it is North of bits of Ontario...LOL I did use the Viton head o-ring and I find them to be pretty hard to damage in other applications( bolt sealing in 3600 psi pneumatic rifles ).
cheers,
Douglas

 

[Nathan_og]

also I have a spare injection pump been sitting around for a while, do you know how I should store it?

Maybe fill it with diesel purge or atf fluid?

 

[burn_your_money]

also I have a spare injection pump been sitting around for a while, do you know how I should store it?

Maybe fill it with diesel purge or atf fluid?

ATF is good, or diesel if you can keep all the air out. All the sensitive electronics are at the top of the pump.

 

[AndyBees]

Regardless of the method you use (on the engine or off), I strongly suggest you give the IP a good cleaning with dish washing liquid and water. You cannot hurt it. Just be sure to cover the Alternator. Flood with water to rinse off the soap. I actually use a pressure washer!

Runobeer has a good YouTube on how to change the pump seals with the Pump on the engine.
The re-seal kit provided by some sources contains a longer bolt which allows pulling the head back far enough to do the job without the shim inside falling from it's position. Use duct tape to warp the head for protecting the big O-ring.

Here is a link to Runobeer's procedure >> https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...injection-pump-seal-replacement-video.287336/

Here is a link to a re-seal I did (scroll down to Post 770 and on down) >> https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...ine-transplant-into-84-vanagon.276798/page-26